Vignettes of the World
After a few days in Portland, I returned to the warmth of Los Angeles. I felt forever welcomed there in the City of Angels. On my last day in Long Beach, I took a leisurely walk in the Marina area, the beach, and some downtown …
When it comes to the history of Oregon, what immediately comes into mind is the Lewis and Clark Expedition. This is the nationally-taught history of the Pacific Northwest. Although there was a story before and there is a story after, the expedition is a good …
Speaking of Guanlan in Shenzhen, most Hong Kong people would think of golfing. Indeed, the Guanlan Old Market is not so far away from the Guanlan Lake, which is the golfing area. Therefore, if you are going to golf in Guanlan, the Guanlan Old Market could be a nice cultural digression for you.
The Guanlan Old Market was established in 1766, with 260 years of history. Founded by the ever-migrating Hakka people, Guanlan Old Market thrived during the late Qing dynasty to the early Republican period. With the Guanlan River in its vicinity, the Guanlan Old Market had ready access to a waterway and it was favorable to trade. The waterways led conveniently to Huizhou, Dongguan and Baoan. Merchants began coming here for trade.
At its inception, the Old Market positioned itself as a center for business. It is one of Shenzhen’s “four great old markets,” along with Laojie in Dongmen, the Qingping Old Market, and the Sha Tau Kok Old Market. During its heyday, goods traded here were international, with both imports and exports. People called it “Little Hong Kong” then.
Most of the buildings in Guanlan Old Market were built in the mid to late Qing dynasty. There are 12 Diaolou’s (or, as the Hakka people called it, Paolou, meaning cannon towers). The tall towers are meant to serve defensive / security functions. After the Old Market met its eventual decline, different authorities did indeed use these towers for defense purposes.
The buildings are mostly made of rammed earth. The former residential houses are built in the Lingnan vernacular style, with typical gabled roof lined with Chinese glazed tiles.
At the southern entrance of Guanlan Old Market, you won’t miss the heritage building of Lan Ge / Hong Lou. Meaning the Red Building, this structure had a glorious past as the most upscale restaurant at the time, named Gongyi Restaurant. The paint having paled, but the building still shows the red paint that earned it the moniker of Red Building.
It features two Romanesque columns that extends throughout the four stories of the structure. From the front, the upper three floors are in a uniform layout with three identical balconies in the front, surrounded on three sides by railings showing intricate geometric details.
Perhaps that this is the closest to the Diaolou’s that I saw in Kaiping. You can’t miss the defining features of Chinese eclectic architecture in this building. On the very top of the building stands an adornment that features short column stumps and a pediment-like top. The sides of the building show more variation, as the rows of windows show different styles of western adornment atop the heads of the windows.
It is said that many of the merchants that operated in the Guanlan Old Market were overseas Chinese, and that explains why there is a clear western influence in the architectural styles of the buildings. They were also the ones that drove the import and export trade in the market.
Photo: The Huasheng Trader was the largest, most significant merchant in Guanlan. It was mainly a trader in fabrics
Photo: The People’s Telegraph Office, of the New China era
Photo: The Western Gate
I liked the Guanlan Old Market very much. The walk was easy, it was not as crowded as the Gankeng Hakka Townlet, and the vibe was clearly that of the “new literati” that has been the latest motif that China’s revived historic places have strived for. My friend and I sat down for coffee here. We chatted the afternoon away.
There are many spots for instagrammable pictures in the Old Market.
And you will be right in thinking that this is a movie set. The show Gu Xu 1938 (Old Market 1938), with a plot based on the Communists’ struggles to take down South China in the 1930s, was set in Guanlan Old Market.
If you are in Hong Kong and look to visit Shenzhen for an easy day trip, Guanlan Old Market is a good choice. Shenzhen Metro Line 4 will take you from the Futian Boundary Crossing to the Guanlan Station. Then walk about 10 minutes from the Metro station to arrive at the Guanlan Old Market.
Baike.badidu.com, Guanlan Old Market (Chin).
Power Up, Mingpao.com, Good Spot for the New Literati (Chin).
I took the light rail from the Airport to Portland. On the way I saw the Willamette River on the bridge. That was when I realized what a magnificent river it is. It must have been fearsome, when it did flood, throughout the history of …
Portland was founded in 1843 and incorporated in 1851. The City of Portland grew out of the area west of the Willamette River. That fact meets the history of the city’s early beginning. Due to the convenience of the Willamette River as a waterway, the …
This four-hour itinerary will take you through some of the key heritage sites and cultural experiences in Central. If you have just one day in Hong Kong, I suggest doing this walk to get a sense of Hong Kong’s most iconic character. The walk will start with a tour of the Peak, then a descent by taking the Peak Tram to the business district of Central. Have Google Map as your guide. You can set the app to walking and do multiple stops as it is shown here.
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| The Peak (45 minutes) | The must-visit site for first-time visitors to Hong Kong. The aerial views north of the Victoria Harbor are the best at the Peak. There are heritage dining and hiking options as well. | City and harbor views, heritage and dining | Arrive by bus or minibus (Route 15 from Exchange Square, Green Minibus Route 1 from the Hong Kong Station Minibus Terminal at the IFC) depart by Peak Tram |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| St. John’s Cathedral (20 minutes) | Since 1849, the St. John’s Cathedral is the oldest Anglican Church in Hong Kong, with beautiful unadorned adaptation of 13th-century English and decorated Gothic, which was the popular revivalist style for churches at the time. | Religious architecture | Walk from the Peak Tram Station |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| Duddell Street Steps and Gas Lamps
(10 minutes) |
Installation for the Duddell Street Steps and Gas Lamps completed circa 1883-1889, still early in the colonial days. Together, the steps and the gas lamps of Duddell Street are the very expression of colonial architecture. The gas lamps are the only such lamps remaining in all of Hong Kong and they are still lit now. | Colonial architecture | Walk from St. John’s Cathedral |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| Lan Kwai Fong (LKF)
(30 minutes) |
The bar street of Hong Kong with a number of restaurants serving small and big meals. With history stretching as far as WWII, when it was mostly reserved for hawkers. It was developed in the 1980s into a bar area. Certainly a hang-out hotspot for expatriates in Hong Kong. Have a beer before you move on to the next sites! | Bar, restaurants | Walk from Duddell Street. |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| Tai Kwun
(45 minutes) |
Tai Kwun is the former Central Police Station that operated during the early colonial days until the 2000’s. Standing as a revitalized cultural space consisting of three declared monuments, Tai Kwun presents the public with an opportunity to revisit a part of Hong Kong history that was once ridden with the unpleasantries of a sometimes-unjust system of justice. | Historic, museum | Walk (upward incline) over from Lan Kwai Fong. |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| Lan Fong Yuen (40 minutes) | Lan Fong Yuen serves up wonderful small meals, such as pan-fried chicken with spring onion over ramen and French toast. Top it up with milk tea and you are ready to go for another two hours of a walking tour.
Lan Fong Yuen has become mostly a tourist-favored cha chaan teng. Expect very long lines if you are going on a Saturday. |
Restaurant, local food | Walk (downward) from Tai Kwun. |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| Central Market
(30 minutes) |
The Central Market has a long history serving the daily needs of Central residents since the beginning of Hong Kong as a British colony. It has gone through a few constructed buildings as a market place, and it stands as the only example of Bauhaus architecture in Hong Kong. After revitalization, the Central Market is now populated with trendy establishments featuring local or foreign varieties in their products. | Historic architecture, restaurants, café, souvenirs | Walk from Lan Fong Yuen |
| Site | Significance | Nature of Scenery | Transportation |
| Jamia Mosque
(20 minutes) |
The Jamia Mosque is the very first official place of worship for the Muslims in Hong Kong. Built in 1890, it signifies the beginning of Islam in Hong Kong. Also known as Jamia Masjid, the name of the mosque means the “mosque of congregation” in Arabic. | Historic religious architecture | Walk from Central Market via the Central Mid-Levels Escalators |
I was drawn to a tour at the Pittock Mansion for two reasons. First is that it is a beautiful heritage building in Portland. Second, one can do hiking trails in the area. Originally, I was going to do a proper hike there, but I …
I enjoyed the Multnomah Falls as a good excursion, away from the city life of Portland. On this early morning I ventured into a natural endowment of Oregon, what ultimately is the most precious heritage of the state. The Multnomah Falls features the spectacular view …
I was in Portland for two and a half days and spent two days sightseeing. Portland has quite a number of scenic spots, museums and historical venues to offer if one has a car. Since I didn’t have a car, I will be discussing places that I could get to by walking, or otherwise by public transportation. This is a very relaxed itinerary and it suited all my purposes in this trip.
Staying in Downtown Portland has the advantage of having ready access to the City’s public transportation network, including light rail and buses. A walk in downtown offers some really nice views of 19th century buildings. I stayed in Hotel Lucia, which is itself a heritage building.
If you don’t have to fuss with large pieces of luggage, I highly recommend you getting a HOP card at the airport and board the light rail into the city from Portland International Airport. Opt for the 2-hour pass and you will be in Downtown in about 45 minutes. There is a little bit of walk from the airport to the Red Line stop, follow signs.
For general navigation, Google Map suffices. It will guide you through any means of public transportation, with accurate times of bus and light rail arrivals and departures.
| Site | Significance | Transportation | Nature of Scenery |
| Downtown Portland | Steeped with historic vibes, Portland’s downtown features many historical buildings. Just take a look and breathe in the atmosphere of easy sophistication. | By walk | History, culture and architecture |
| Powells City of Books | A four-story bookstore with everything you ever need to nurture your soul.
Address: 1005 W Burside Street, Portland OR 97209 |
By walk | Culture |
| The First Presbyterian Church | One of the oldest and largest churches in Portland, the Church’s sanctuary was a structure of 1890.
Address: 1200 SW Alder Street, Portland, OR 97205 |
By walk | Religious architecture |
| The Pioneer Courthouse Square | A public square with coffee shops and food trucks. I saw Christmas decorations there in December and it’s very cozy there.
Address: 701 SW 6th Ave, Portland, OR 97204 |
By walk | Urban infrastructure |
| Lunch at Pleasure Burger | Delightful smashed burgers with parmesan critter fries, budget price but high quality food and hospitality. Hip atmosphere as well.
Address: 606 SW Broadway, Portland, OR 97205 |
By walk | Restaurant |
| Site | Significance | Transportation | Nature of Scenery |
| Old Town (Chinatown) | If possible, join a private tour that will introduce the Shanghai tunnels within the old buildings of Old Town to learn about an urban legend. | By walk | Culture, urban landscape |
| The Japanese American Museum (at Naito Center) | A small museum featuring the narrative of generations of Japanese Americans and their experience being interned during WWII, with wonderful tales of survival and resilience.
Address: 411 NW Flanders St (entrance on 4th Avenue), OR 97204 |
By walk | History, museum |
| Xin Ding Dumpling House | Authentic both in terms of being Chinese food and Chinese American food. Interesting as a sports bar restaurant.
Address: 71 SW 2nd Ave, Portland, OR 97204 |
By walk | Restaurant |
| Site | Significance | Transportation | Nature of Scenery |
| Multnomah Falls | Very easy to get to Multnomah Falls from Downtown Portland. | Light rail to the Gateway Transit Center, then take the bus to Multnomah Falls, inquire at the station. | Natural scenery |
| Food Cart Pod on SW Harvey Milk Street, Downtown Portland | Located on SW Harvey Milk Street and SW 5th Avenue, this food cart pod features a large, firelit dining space with a host of food carts featuring all kinds of cuisines to choose from. | By walk | Dining |
| Site | Significance | Transportation | Nature of Scenery |
| Pittock Mansion | A stately mansion with beautiful interior, especially the holiday décor. A show of the Portland elite’s glamorous lifestyle.
Address: 3229 NW Pittock Dr., Portland, OR 97210 |
Trimet Bus Route 20, get off at W Burnside & NW Barnes, and walk about 20 minutes up a gentle slope to reach the Mansion. | Historic, culture, architecture |
| St Honore Bakery | A French style bakery and café, serving pretty good sandwiches that can be reheated.
Address: 501 SW Broadway, Portland, OR 97205 |
By walk | Dining |
My heart skipped a beat when I came to a closeup view of the USS Iowa. It was stately, to say the least. Under generous sunlight the USS Iowa breathes an aged but assured glory. Its imposing image is immediately evocative of battle scenes. I …