Vignettes of the World
I refer to the Outback as a colloquial reference to the part of Australian hinterland that comes with a vast expanse of desert and an enormous diversity in natural endowment. If one must put a finger on the proper names, the Outback is located in …
The Australian Outback has captured my imagination for as long as I remember. Although I have been to a number of the eastern coastal cities in Australia, the Outback remained a place of mystery to me. I had thought of that vast desert region to …
In the last entry I discussed the Hong Kong Red Swastika Building. Lying not far away from the Hong Kong Red Swastika Building is the Tin Hau Temple of Causeway Bay. That was one stone, two birds for me.
The exact year of construction of the Tin Hau Temple of Causeway Bay is unclear. But its history is tied with that of the Tai clan. It is said that the Tai folks found a red stone shaped like an incense burner at the shore. They believed that it was a sacred object sent by Tin Hau. Thereafter, they built a shrine at the shore and housed this sacred stone for worship. It became very popular with the fishermen’s community. The Tais then raised funds to build a Tin Hau Temple. The temple stands on the reclaimed land of what used to be a fishing village.
Traditionally, a temple in Hong Kong is dated by the sacred objects, and usually the brass bell that graces almost all temples are the first clue to look for. The sacred objects in this Tin Hau Temple are dated to different periods of the Qing dynasty. The brass bell bears the date of the 12th year of the Qianlong reign (1747). The name plaque of the temple and the accompanying couplets have stood at the temple since the 7th year of the Tongzhi reign (1868). The stone altar table where the statue of Tin Hau sits is engraved with the wordings, “the 2nd year of the Guangxu reign” (1876).
Traditionally, Tin Hau is worshipped by the fishermen’s community as she is the Goddess of the Sea. In a lot of Hong Kong’s inhabited islands, Tin Hau is the goddess of choice for the islanders. Yet, this Tin Hau Temple does bear some unique features as opposed to other Tin Hau Temples.
First of all, the temple is significantly more spacious than the other traditional temples in Hong Kong. It has the format of two halls, two bays. Tin Hau, Judge Bao and the God of Wealth are the resident deities.
On the sides of the temple is a pair of stone lions that bear the date “the 25th year of the Daoguang reign” (1849).
Before the temple building lies a large open area. A stone table supports three treasures, they are incense holders, bearing the date “28th year of the Guangxu reign” (1902).
The temple is built of blue bricks and stones. As with all temples the ridge of the roof is adorned with clay figurines, and the ones at this Tin Hau Temple are the work of the famous Shiwan craftsmen. The main motif is the two dragons toying the pearl. Otherwise, the other figurines at various lower levels depict famous scenes in Chinese operas.
Hung on the sides of the main entrance are two colorful large lanterns. Wall murals are also standard features in Hong Kong temples and this Tin Hau Temple comes with ample displays of mural art. At the side walls outside of the main hall, clay relief mural installations add a touch of traditional mysticism.
One comes to appreciate the temple beyond its religious purpose. It has aesthetic qualities that show wonderful artistic value and craftsmanship. In all measures this temple is more beautiful than other standard temples in Hong Kong.
Also known as the worship of Mazu, Tin Hau worship is recognized by the UNESCO as a global intangible cultural heritage. On the 23rd of the third month on the Lunar Calendar, the followers of Tin Hau hold celebration festivities for Tin Hau’s birthday. There are ceremonies that “receive the Goddess,” opera performances offered to Tin Hau, fa pau (paper floral tributes) and a procession. Traditionally, the celebration begins at the large open area before the Tin Hau Temple of Causeway Bay.
The Tin Hau Temple of Causeway Bay is a Declared Monument. The address of the Tin Hau Temple is 10 Tin Hau Temple Road, Causeway Bay.
A gentle reminder: when I was inside the temple, I was told that photographs are not allowed. Please be respectful.
The Antiquities and Monuments Office on The Tin Hau Temple of Causeway Bay.
GBA Times, Causeway Bay’s Tin Hau Temple and its Hundred Year Heritage (Chin).
The HK Hub, The Cultural Guide to Tin Hau Festival, Celebrating the Sea Goddess’ Birthday.
Oh, the Swastika! Surely that it is a symbol of horror, but in China it stands only for a charitable purpose. For a very long time, I thought the Red Swastika symbol for the Chinese religious and charitable organization was a flipped version of the …
I was looking for a place of worship that has both historical and architectural significance. It came to my attention that the Hung Shing Temple in Wan Chai is a declared monument. I decided to pay a visit. The History of Hung Shing Temple Also …
The Guia Fortress would be the final stop for this historic excursion into the roots of Macau’s proud history. After lunch at Wabi Sabi, I made me way up a gentle incline to the Guia Fortress. Guia Hill is the highest point in the Macau Peninsula at 91.6 meters. Needless to say, like the Monte Fort, this is a perfect vantage point in which to enjoy the aerial view of the Macau Peninsula.
The Guia Fortress had served a weather-telling function of Macau’s observatory. Before heading up the historic structures, you would go through a small exhibition featuring the observatory’s work here. It mainly involved the hoisting of typhoon signals.
Along with the Monte Fort, the Guia Fortress was critical in the defense of Macau during the Dutch Invasion of 1622, at which time construction of the Guia Fortress had begun in anticipation of the impending conflicts with the Dutch. The period of construction took place in 1622, and the fortress was further expanded in 1638. The Guia Fortress consisted of a guardhouse, a magazine and a tower. The 52-meter air Guia Hill Air Raid Shelter had a generator, oil storage, lounge, and a lift to the light house. It is now a venue of exhibition.
For centuries, the Guia Fortress served as a structure of defense exclusively. The military use would continue until 1976, when the Portuguese forces withdrew from Macau after the post-revolution Portuguese government decided to divest of all its colonies in the world. Perhaps then it was only natural that the Guia Fortress took up a new role as the cultural spokesperson of Macau, its ruins attesting a proud history in defending Macau.
The Guia Lighthouse is not open to the public, but the beautiful architecture itself is a great attraction. Built in 1865, the Guia Lighthouse was the first western, modern lighthouse in China. It stands at 15 meters in height. In clear weather, the lighthouse has the visibility of 32km.
Macau’s coordinates are based on the exact location of the Guia Lighthouse.
The Clarist nuns of the Philippines arrived in Macau in 1633. They were housed in the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guia, which was built in 1622 by the nuns of the Order of St. Clare. The current church structure was of 1637. The Guia Chapel was therefore a witness to the Clarist nuns’ ministry around the time that the fort was built. Thereafter, the Clarist nuns established the Convent of St. Clare.
The Chapel of Our Lady of Guia, also known as the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows, is built in granite. With dimensions of 16 meter in length, 4.7 meters in width, the church façade features a pediment outlined in yellow and a white front. There are stairs on the side leading to the rooftop. The church also comes with a sacristy.
One architectural point to note is that the church is built in granite with a very thick wall as its support structure. The walls of the chapel are more than one meter in thickness. This is markedly different from other religious structures in Macau, whereby the churches are built in wood with beams as the support system. Although the rooftop is a gabled roof, the interior of the chapel is one of a barrel vault. Scholars have noted that this feature is more consistent with the style of small churches in the Philippines, known as “earthquake baroque.”
The Chapel now exhibits the frescoes that are part of the incredible heritage that marks the cultural significance of the Guia Fortress. The frescoes show biblical tales depicted in a Chinese artistic tradition, with a touch of mythology. This blend of Chinese artistic expression in biblical representations is unique even in all of Macau’s religious architecture.
Frescoes are the wall paintings where pigments are mixed into the wet fresh plaster immediately after it is applied to the wall. As the wet plaster dries, it absorbs the pigments and painting becomes part of the wall. It is therefore more durable than other forms of murals.
Over the years, the frescoes were covered by many different layers of plaster. Between 1996 and 1998, restoration work was conducted on the Chapel. Workers discovered the frescoes. With due care, the workmen chose the best matching materials and pigments for each section, exercising scientific methods in the process. They had to remove the mud and the coating without scraping away the pigments.
Although both the fortress’ defensive function and the chapel’s religious purpose have retired into the folds of history, the art displayed in the Chapel is the unique testament to Macau as a Portuguese territory in China, where eastern and western influences met and fused into one another.
Photo: The dual eagle image fresco features two eagles with a crown.
The opening hours of the chapel are 10:00 am to 5:o0 pm.
There is supposedly a cable car that can take visitors up to the top of Guia Hill, where the Fortress is situated, but I didn’t notice such when I visited. It was a pretty hot day that I went and so if you are to walk up the hill, prepare enough water with you.
Descriptions on site at the Guia Fortress.
The Wikipedia on the Guia Fortress.
Macao Tourism Office, Guia Fortress, Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows and Lighthouse.
O Clarim, Macau Church Heritage – the Guia Chapel.
Baike.baidu.com, Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows (Chin).
Gu Yeung, The Relics of the Order of the Augustine in Macau – Beginning with the Crowned Dual Eagle of the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows (Chin).
The Houhai Zhongxinhe Park (Houhai Central River Park) has been showing some spring colors and I took a walk there in February. The date of visit is February 8, 2026. The Houhai Zhongxinhe Park Meaning Houhai Central River Park, the recreational space at Houhai Zhongxinhe …
Sam Shing of Tuen Mun is known for its seafood. It is a pretty popular place and people come from all over Hong Kong to have a proper seafood dinner. My parents live in Tuen Mun and so we also go to Sam Shing’s seafood …
Fortaleza do Monte in Portuguese, the Monte Fort has great historical significance to Macau. This is the site of the battle between the Dutch and the Macanese during the Dutch Invasion of 1622.
The tale is one of heroism at one shot. The Jesuit priest had but a few cannons with him and in his first shot he hit the Dutch troops ascending the Monte and blew up their magazine.
The Macanese having won the first invasion by the Dutch, the rest was history.
The Monte Fort was built between 1617 and 1626 on Mount Hill by the Jesuits in order protect their properties. Originally, the protection was intended to be against the pirates in the area. Eventually, it came into the possession of the Macau government, and since then it had been considered a defensive structure for Macau city.
In its history, the Monte Fort’s cannons came into use only in two occasions. The Monte Fort remained a defensive structure, being off-bounds to the public, until the Macau Government built the weather station in 1965. This weather station would eventually be turned into the Macau Museum today, opening its doors since 1998.
The fort had also served as the governor’s residence between 1623 and 1749. Governor Francisco Mascarenhas began residing there, and successive Macau governors have done so until 1749.
Perhaps it is hard to believe that a structure of defense has an exceeding beauty. The aged rocky enclosure breathes the spirit of endurance. Some parts of the exterior are black, some parts are white, looking like the patches of a classic milk cow. Though a little strangely, its appearance exhibits a calmness and serenity grounded in its significance in Macau history. It has certainly had its share of glory, having been through the thick and the thin of Macau’s transformation.
The general area of the Fort spans an impressive 2.47 acres. The cannons are situated at a 100 x 100 meter square fort. There are a total of 32 cannons on display, along with watch towers. The cannons face the western and southern directions, which include the coastal area of what is now Nam Van. The enclosures are built in stones. The former barracks now houses the Macau Museum. There are also tunnels, as part of the defense structure, in the area. They are worth exploring but not open on the day that I visited.
The Macau Museum is reputed to be the best source of Macau history, but I did not have enough time to see the exhibits there. That will be on my itinerary in my next visit.
From the Ruins of St. Paul’s, one can easily walk up to reach the Monte Fort. The climb is gentle, although maybe a little sweaty during the hot days. Be sure to bring enough water with you, as in the next entry I will take you forward to the Guia Fortress and Lighthouse, which is another climb up.
As I stood at the Monte looking over the city, I saw afar the clear image of the Grand Lisboa, its building’s signature top in a fan shape. Glistening in gold, it looked slightly outdated, slightly gaudy. I wondered if Macau has ever consciously reconciled the extreme opposites that lie at the core of its identity. One of a heavily religious past as against the decadently hedonistic present. Do the Macanese themselves think of their rich spiritual heritage to be fundamentally at odds with what is now the indispensable lifeline in their economy, that is legal gambling, as shown in the omnipresence of posh casinos?
The Wikipedia on the Fortaleza do Monte.
China Xian Tour, Monte Forte of Macau – the Oldest and Largest European Fort in East Asia.
China Highlights, Monte Fort.
Plums do not compete with snow for whiteness; snow, however, pales in comparison in fragrance. ~ Snow Plum, by Lu Meipo The Three Friends of Winter: Pine, Bamboo and Plum Blossom There is Chinese poetry written for almost every flower on …