After a few days in Portland, I returned to the warmth of Los Angeles. I felt forever welcomed there in the City of Angels. On my last day in Long Beach, I took a leisurely walk in the Marina area, the beach, and some downtown locations for photo-taking. I will briefly go through these locations here.

The RMS Queen Mary

The RMS Queen Mary was a proper British ocean liner traversing the North Atlantic from 1936 until 1967, when it was acquired by the City of Long Beach. It was built as a passenger ship, but during WWII, it transported the allied soldiers.

As it has been revitalized, the RMS Queen Mary is now a hospitality establishment that positions itself in the premium range. It has a hotel, a museum and the facility for conferences. It is permanently moored at Long Beach. From the Shoreline Aquatic Park (where the Lions Lighthouse is), you can see quite clearly its stately profile afar, with the three signature chimneys.

The RMS Queen Mary is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A heritage tour is also available for a fee. Appointments can be made here.  I didn’t manage to go because it was simply too far to reach the ship on foot.

The Shoreline Village

In my humble opinion, the shoreline village is incredibly touristy and it is probably not really worth a visit, unless you are interested in trying their marina-side restaurants, which offer a pretty good view with al fresco dining areas.

There are some photogenic spots for photographs there, but not much more.

Walking along Shoreline Way, I passed the beautiful marina and headed toward the Alamitos Beach. Beginning with the Alamitos beach, the extended area of sandy shore is consisted of Junipero Beach, Long Beach City Beach and Rosie’s Dog Beach. I think that a trip to Long Beach would not be complete unless one has visited the beaches.

The Alamitos Beach of Long Beach

There is a long list of good beaches in Long Beach. I took a walk along the Marina and arrived at the Alamitos Beach.

As said in a previous entry, Alamitos is the name of what was formerly part of Long Beach, referencing Rancho Los Cerritos and Rancho Los Alamitos as the two areas named after the Spanish owners of the land here.

I am not sure if people swim at the Alamitos Beach. I imagine the water is quite cold here during winter, even though the temperature is in the mid-20s Celsius. People certainly can play beach volleyball here. The atmosphere is very relaxed. There were a lot of bikers, joggers and roller skaters. The vibe is so Californian, I fell in love with this beach immediately.

It was a good opportunity to take a coffee break. I found Gaucho Beach with outdoor seating. As I sipped my coffee, staring into the wide-open space before me, with the ocean afar, I felt like Long Beach is where I want to be in my next leg of journey in life.

I headed back Downtown Long Beach and saw a few heritage buildings.

The Fairmont Breakers Long Beach

Even as I passed by the Fairmont Breakers Long Beach, I marveled at the beauty of the building. Standing magnificently next to the beach, amply graced with the palmy vibes of California, the beautiful historic structure is built in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style with cast stone and plaster exterior. Built in 1926 as the Breakers Hotel, the Fairmont Breakers Long Beach has gone through the glory and decline that are woven into the fabric of local history.

The original Breakers Hotel was developed by banker Fred B. Dunn. He hired the prominent Los Angeles architects, Albert Walker and Percy Eisen, to design a structure that brings together his penchant for luxury. The hotel, from inside out, was in every way the epitome of the excesses of the flappers’ era of the 1920s. Its grandiose décor, featuring art deco style interiors and a 500-seat main dining hall named “The Hall of the Galleons,” was an epic glory that would never be revived.

Legend has it that Charles Lindburgh, when he was on a flight, lost sight in this area due to heavy fog. He saw the big “B” of the hotel and managed to make an emergency landing as a result. He was greeted by a host of fans at the hotel the next morning.

Unfortunate as it was, the hotel met its decline when the world plunged into the Great Depression. Business was terrible. The 1933 Long Beach Earthquake was the disaster that sealed its fate in bankruptcy. The original Breakers’ final act was to serve as the Red Cross’ disaster relief center for the earthquake.

The Hilton Group purchased the hotel in 1938, and it became very popular with Hollywood actors, who find the location to afford a greater measure of privacy than Los Angeles proper. The Sky Room, the top floor bar and restaurant, was born of this era of the hotel. Together, the restaurant and the hotel were glorious again. During the Second World War, the hotel served as the Air Watch headquarters for Long Beach. It was fitted with two pillboxes, one of which remains today. Thereafter, the hotel was turned into luxury retirement homes, and in the 1990s it was also once an assisted-living center.

It is no surprise that the revitalization of the building was itself also much of a collaboration by local partners. The revitalization took 160 million.

It is a thoughtful and thorough process, aimed to “take a modern view of its historic nature” (National Trust for Historical Preservation). The restoration won the 2025 Preservation Award from the Los Angeles Conservancy.

The Sky Room is a bar and restaurant serving classic American with contemporary flair. If you want to have a more intimate experience with this heritage hotel without paying 5-star premium, visiting the Sky Room for drinks and dinner would be a good alternative.

The Psychic Temple

The Psychic Temple has an interesting history as the original home to a religious cult.  In 1905, William C. Price built this structure to be the headquarters for his Society of New or Practical Psychology (a.k.a. The Holy Kiss Society).

In 1908, Price sued his followers to collect unpaid stock purchases supporting his cult. His legal opponent, Anna Sewell, then bought the Psychic Temple for $2,910. She turned it into the American Hotel. The building became the second oldest commercial building in Downtown Long Beach. By 1989, the building has lived through the thick and thin with Long Beach. It was a very old building. The City of Long Beach declared it a historical landmark.

In 2000, the City of Long Beach purchased the property. There were hopes to redevelop the building to give it new life and mission. Finally, in 2012, JR van Dijs, Inc. was given the permission to restore it for the use of interTrend as an arts and creativity space.

Long Beach is a historic community and there are many more stories that hide in plain sight in its downtown. I highly recommend joining a heritage tour to learn about the architecture of the downtown buildings. See information here.

Sources

The Wikipedia on RMS Queen Mary.

The Website of RMS Queen Mary.

The Website of Psychic Temple.

National Trust for Historic Preservation, Almost a Century After Its Construction, a Celebrated Long Beach, California, Hotel Enters Its Next Era.

I took the light rail from the Airport to Portland. On the way I saw the Willamette River on the bridge. That was when I realized what a magnificent river it is. It must have been fearsome, when it did flood, throughout the history of Portland. The fact that there are 12 bridges and crossings over this river serves one’s understanding of how significant it is to the City of Portland.

In the 2.5 days that I was there, it was raining hard. I saw flooding warnings throughout those days.

As the light rail pulled into the City, a sense of familiarity arose in my mind. It felt like Melbourne, Australia. There was a bit of foot traffic in this late afternoon. The light rail went through the buildings that hovered over the roads. A lot of these buildings appeared to be from the late 19^th to early 20^th century. The scene of light rail making its rounds in a city teeming with historic vibes is also the feature of Melbourne City that I like.

Dusk would befall soon, and I nestled in the very back row of the light rail, feeling the overwhelming cold around me. From Los Angeles to Portland, the temperature dropped 50 degrees (10 degrees Celsius).

The City of Roses

Portland is also known as the City of Roses. It acquired this beautiful name due to the Rose Festival that the city holds annually in June. The first Rose Festival took place in 1907, as an effort to bring together the positive impact of the Lewis and Clark Centennial Exposition, held in 1905, that significantly improved Portland’s image.

In fact, the Pittocks were instrumental in initiating this first Rose Festival in Portland. Georgiana Pittock held the first (unofficial) Rose Show in 1899. She held it in a large tent on a vacant corner in the Pittock Block. She charged 10 cents for local neighbors and offered free admission to “strangers.” Thereafter, she formed the Portland Rose Society in the same year. In 1905, the Society planted roses all along the pathways of the Lewis and Clark Centennial Fair. It also advocated for the Portland community to plant roses in their respective garden spaces.

The roses initiative was a success. The Mayor then suggested that a rose festival to be held. By now, the Rose Festival 118 years in the running.

The Pioneer Courthouse Square

You can’t miss the Pioneer Courthouse if you stroll in Downtown Portland. It is the center of gravity driving foot and vehicular traffic. In fact, it is known as “Portland’s living room.”

The Pioneer Courthouse is the first federal building to be built in the Pacific Northwest region, which includes the states of Oregon, Washington, and formerly part of Idaho. It now stands as the forum for the U.S. Court of Appeals.

Of the few occasions that I passed by the Square, I enjoyed the nightly vibes the most. The enormous Christmas tree glitters and the atmosphere was festive. A group of singers sang Christmas carols. I hadn’t been back in the United States for 12 years. This was the expression of joy that is “uniquely western” (as in, the Dickens Carolers) – and that I missed dearly.

The First Presbyterian Church

The First Presbyterian Church is one of the oldest and largest churches in Portland. The Church’s sanctuary was a structure of 1890, its balcony was added in 1892. The pipe organ of the church was built in New York. As a protestant institution, the First Presbyterian Church has developed over 20 other congregations in the Portland area throughout its history.

The church remains active in the community and is one of the largest Presbyterian congregations in Portland today.

The Benson Bubblers

Be certain to look out for the Benson Bubblers at the Pioneer Courthouse Square, as you can see multiple there. The Benson Bubblers is an urban feature that makes Portland especially cute.

The Benson Bubblers are the bronze drinking fountains that provide water to anyone needing it in Downtown Portland. They celebrate the famous businessman and philanthropist Simon Benson, who was also the benefactor that enabled the construction of the Benson Bridge at the Multnomah Falls.

The installations were made throughout Portland in 1912 and they are still operating today. I only saw one with running water at the Pioneer Courthouse Square in the evening, when crowds gathered for the festive ambiance there.

Some Other Downtown Buildings to Note

Hotel Lucia

I stayed in Hotel Lucia for the simple fact that it is itself a heritage building and it was certainly value for money as a downtown option. Built in 1909, it was an extension of the adjacent, original Imperial Hotel.

As such, the predecessor of Hotel Lucia was the Imperial Hotel. The building that houses Hotel Lucia has always been intended as a hospitality facility. It was fitted in a way that continues to accommodate the hardware features that provide top accommodation experience for its guests.

I am not “selling” the hotel here, it is an honest opinion of how well-run and well-functioned the hotel amenities were.

As with the Pioneer Courthouse Square, the hotel welcomed the December visitors with the illuminations of holiday décor. It is an enormous contrast to those homeless folks that loiter outside the hotel occasionally (see more below). I was fortunate that I was at this side of the aisle.

The United States National Bank Building and the Adjacent Wells Fargo Building

At its inception, the building was home to the United States National Bank of Portland, which eventually became U.S. Bancorp in 1968. The United States National Bank of Portland opened for business in 1891. With enormous business success, it purchased this quarter of a block in Portland downtown in 1916 to build a permanent place of business. The bank’s headquarters at this location opened in 1917, and it has been the site of its headquarters to the current day.

The Wikipedia has this to say about its architecture and preservation:

The building was designed by A.E. Doyle, a Portland architect, in a Roman classical style, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places…. The building features a four-story Corinthian colonnade at its eastern end (originally the principal facade) and makes extensive use of glazed terracotta. The interior is also decorated extensively with highly textured materials.

The U.S. National Bank of Oregon (former entity before the bank is held by U.S. Bancorp) was honored by the Portland Historical Landmarks Commission in that year (1979) for its longstanding commitment to maintaining the building in nearly original condition.

Over a century-and-more of its existence, the bank had a sprawling business presence that spilled over to its physical occupation of key locations in Portland’s Downtown. Besides the Wells Fargo Building, which stands right next to the bank (and shown in the photograph above), that the bank purchased in 1946, in the same area there is at least another U.S. Bank building that the bank built in the 1970s.

A Homelessness Problem

Perhaps Portland’s homelessness problem has been a key concern for the city for years now. Having stayed in a hotel in Downtown Portland for a few nights, I could say that I gathered a pretty good idea of homelessness in the city.

I have heard the horror stories that came out of San Francisco. I must say that homelessness wasn’t so bad in Portland. There was certainly no foul smell on the streets. A number of homeless people would loiter around the higher end hotels seeking cigarettes or money. The didn’t do anything to me when I politely said no to them. Some would do their shopping in the trash bins, and I found that to be admirable because they would do what they could to make a few bucks. I did see a few that were talking to themselves nonstop, but overall, they did not seem to present any real chance of harm against others. When I did give a dollar or two, they were thankful. Some even chatted with me a little.

The point being that they are all human beings, all the same.

Sources

The Wikipedia on List of Crossings on the Willamette River.

The Wikipedia on Hotel Lucia.

The Wikipedia on Pioneer Courthouse Square.

The Wikipedia on United States National Bank Building.

Descriptions on site at the Pittock Mansion.

I was drawn to a tour at the Pittock Mansion for two reasons. First is that it is a beautiful heritage building in Portland. Second, one can do hiking trails in the area. Originally, I was going to do a proper hike there, but I did not have enough time.

I simply took the bus there and walked up the slopes for about twenty minutes to reach the Mansion, and that was good enough as a walk. Allow for more than two hours of touring if you plan on walking up the mansion.

Getting There

The way to get to the Pittock Mansion is by Bus Route 20 from Downtown. Get off at the W Burnside & NW Barnes^, and walk about 20 minutes up a gentle slope to reach the Mansion. There are clear signs along the way.

The Pittock Mansion

The Pittock Mansion is the perfect window through which one learns about the history of Portland. It was the family residence for the prominent Portland family of Henry and Georgiana Pittock. Architect Edward Foulkes was the mastermind behind this beautiful building. Built in 1914, Pittock Mansion spans 16,000 square feet in a French Renaissance Chateau with 23 rooms.

A grand circular marble staircase serves as the central feature in the mansion that takes one through all of the chateau’s chambers.

The Pittocks spent about $190,000 to $350,000 (about 5-8 million in today’s terms) to build the mansion. Three generations of the Pittocks lived in the mansion, until 1958, when they could no longer afford the maintenance costs. They put the house onto the property market. Thereafter, some misfortunates befell a dilapidating house. In 1962, the Columbus Day Storm blew away the tiles on the roof and broke the windows. This left the mansion exposed to rain for 18 months.

Photo: Panoramic view of Portland City outside of the Pittock Mansion

In 1964, developers expressed interest in purchasing the property with plans to pull it down for redevelopment. The citizens of Portland initiated a campaign to save the mansion. Eventually, the City of Portland purchased the property with $225,000, of which $67,500 were raised by the citizens.

The salvage of Pittock Mansion and the subsequent revival of its former glory was a joint effort mobilized by the Portlanders. For 1.5 years, workers worked diligently to restore the structure. People, including the notable Portland Couch and Failings families, donated and loaned antique furniture and heirloom to refurnish the house. In 1965, the Pittock Mansion and its grounds reopened its doors as a historic house museum.

The Pittocks in Portland

The Pittocks’ establishment as an elite family in Portland was a classic story of success in their times. Henry and his future wife Georgiana Pittock arrived in Portland by wagon trains in the 1850s, via the Oregon Trail. The couple married in 1860, and for decades they lived in Downtown Portland.

This was also the time when Portland was incorporated (1851) and Oregon became the 33^rd state (1859). As such, properly considered, they were pioneers in a new world called the Pacific Northwest of the United States.

Henry found work as the typesetter of the Weekly Oregonian newspaper. Through years of hard work, Henry cultivated his career in newspaper publishing. He eventually became the owner and publisher of the Oregonian, at his time a Republican newspaper and published daily. Georgiana played a key role in a few charitable and cultural organizations, particular with a cause on the rights of women and children. Henry acquired the wealth that sustained generations of his family, and invested in real estate, banking, sheep ranching, mining and paper manufacturing as well. He left an estate of almost 8 million.

As he became established in Portland’s society, Henry was a critical figure in the city’s bourgeoning industrial and cosmopolitan character. For one thing, the Pittocks are the originator of Portland’s famous Rose Festival, which is still held today in June annually.

Henry and his daughters were avid mountaineers. Their love for nature is shown in the patch in the back half of the property that was kept wild intentionally. The Pittocks planted beds of shrubs and flowers around the house. They also enjoyed the “fruits of their labor,” when family members picked wild-grown apples to the table for enjoyment.

Perhaps it is worth noting that Henry Pittock was especially tolerant when it came down to race relations. One of his servants was of Chinese descent. He said “… During the Chinese riots here [in 1886], we opposed the driving out of the Chinese… and I had a long list of the names of the persons who signed statements supporting us in our contentions… threats of burning us out were made.”

Interiors

Perhaps one of the most innovative structures in the Pittock Mansion is the elevator. Georgiana suffered from a stroke, so the family residence was equipped with an in-house elevator for her convenience. This elevator was a top-of-the-line technology in their times.

Besides this elevator, other features were also representative of the latest home luxury innovations, including thermostat-controlled central heating, a refrigerator room, and a central vacuum system.

The exhibitions show amply the luxurious lifestyle of the Pittocks. It is a kind of luxury that transcends all eras and regions. By any standard of measure, at any time of history, at any region of the world, their lives in the mansion rivaled that of the world’s elites’.

For example, they have a full crew of workers to take care of their daily needs, from a chauffeur to a team of servants. For servants alone, the house provided four bedrooms.

The interior features dark wood panels in medieval and Renaissance designs. The recessed ceiling lighting was also an innovation in 1914.

“The mansion’s décor reflects changing approaches to interpretation in historic houses over several decades.” (Descriptions on site) In refurnishing the restored mansion, the administrator drew insights from how other contemporary houses were furnished. The music room was such an example, whereby French revival Louis XIV furnishings reflect a style popular for “high-style parlor” circa 1914.

Holiday Décor

Since I visited the Pittock Mansion in December, I could enjoy the festive atmosphere there, carefully put together by the staff. The Christmas theme was exceedingly beautiful, and it felt almost royal in the Pittock Mansion at this time of the year. The place was infused with champaign gold, luxurious but also warm with lots of red pieces juxtaposed for a touch of festivity.

Entrance fee to the Pittock Mansion is $17.

Sources

Descriptions on site at the Pittock Mansion.

Eyewitness Travel Guides, USA (2006).