Vignettes of the World
The Aberdeen Battery has been on my bucket list for a while and I finally got the courage and motivation to go. It was not going to be easy to find it, and I did have an adventure there. Please see below on the details …
Update as of February 2024 I have recently passed by the former site of Ka Lai Yuen and with some complicated feelings discovered that the restaurant has now reopened its doors since its disgraceful and abrupt closure in April 2023. I have not had a …
Photo credit: All close-up photographs of the pink dolphins on this entry are the work of Thomas Tue, aka Mr. Dolphin, of the Eco Association Limited.
On this bright late summer morning I got up at 6:30 and headed over to Tung Chung to meet with the group for a dolphin sighting tour. Eco Association Limited organized this tour with Mr. Thomas Tue, also known as Mr. Dolphin, as our guide. We met promptly at 9am, then walked over to the Tung Chung Development Pier. After boarding a new and air-conditioned junk, we headed out to the ocean at 9:40. The junk returned to the pier at 2pm.
I was very thankful for the air-conditioned interior of the junk. Other tours are not of this scale, they usually operate on small tour boats and certainly come with no air conditioning.
We first headed over to the waters off of the third runway of the Hong Kong International Airport. There we could see the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge. And we certainly saw, from a distance, the pink dolphins of Hong Kong.
Dolphins are mammals, and despite the clear differences they actually share many characteristics with human beings. First of all, they breathe through lungs. They are also warm-blooded animals. Finally, they give birth not by laying eggs, but instead bearing in their womb the baby dolphins until they are ready to come out and charge down the world.
Photos: Without foot-long lenses, this was the best capture of the dolphins with my iPhone 13 Pro. Again, all close-up photographs of the pink dolphins in this entry are the work of Mr. Thomas Tue, aka Mr. Dolphin, of the Eco Association Limited.
Because the dolphins breathe through lungs, they rise above the water in order to breathe. This is why we are able to do dolphin sighting, as they only show their faces when they have to breathe. Dolphins move their tail fins up and down for propulsion above the water in order to breathe. Their air vent is above their forehead. With each inhalation they can last under the water for a few minutes. As such, this determines the rhythm of the sighting.
There are more than thirty species of dolphins in the world. They eat fish, octopus and squids. The pink dolphins of Hong Kong eat mainly fish. They like these following fishes for their size: yellow croakers, gray mullets, yellowtails and Bombay ducks.
In terms of sharing similar characteristics as humans, the dolphins are also an intelligent animal. The key indicator is their ability to communicate via making ultrasounds in the ocean. Their melon is the organ that enables the making of these ultrasounds, which reach and then bounce off the sea floor. For more on the function of the melon for aquatic mammals, please see the Wikipedia entry here.
In terms of communication, like humans each species of dolphins living in different habitats will have its own language. The dolphins of one habitat are not able to communicate with the dolphins in another habitat.
Finally, dolphins have excellent vision. The water of the Pearl river comes with a lot of soil and sediments, so the dolphins are able to see their environments when they drive themselves up the water for breathing. They certainly see us in our boats, and we were told that we must remain quiet, otherwise the dolphins will not come close to us.
The scientific name for the pink dolphins of Hong Kong is Sousa chinensis. Its common English name is Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphin. They are a vulnerable species with the protection of law in Hong Kong. In the last section of this entry, I will discuss sources that explain the situation of vulnerability for the dolphins.
The Sousa chinensis of Hong Kong is very special in a few respects. This kind of dolphins are also found in the seas south of Africa and north of Australia. The pink dolphins of Hong Kong live where the ocean meets the river. They move about in a limited area surrounding Lantau Island, where the mouth of the Pearl River is. They do not venture out to the open sea. On this tour, we did reach the waters at Fan Lau, overlooking Kai Yat Kok, which is the westernmost islet in Hong Kong.
Photos: Fan Lau and Kai Yat Kok, where some of the pink dolphins make home.
The pink dolphins of Hong Kong are the only dolphins in the world that bear the color pink. It is not that their skin is pink in color, but rather that their skin is very pale due to the habitat that they live in. At where the sea water and fresh water meets, the sediments of the river water prevents the dolphins from acquiring color from sunlight. Their skin is pale and shows the blood that circulates in their body, especially when their blood vessels expand during exercise. As such, the grown pink dolphins of Hong Kong are pink in color.
The coloring of their skin provides the key indication of their life stage. Grown pink dolphins are fully pink. If you see one with gray dots or patches, that means they are in their teenage. The gray pink dolphins are infants.
Photos: the color of the skin provides the key indication of the dolphin’s life stage.
At mating season, the male dolphins have to do much hard work. Some three to five males will gather and surround the one female, and the males have to swim a lot, and very fast to impress her. The term of pregnancy is ten months, and once the baby dolphin is born, the mother will raise it for all the life skills it needs to survive.
Usually at each sighting one can see three, five to seven of the dolphins, but recently more than ten could be seen.
It is believed that the Sousa chinensis have made it home in Hong Kong since the 17th century. Needless to say, they were familiar to the people of Hong Kong. A few written accounts have documented their existence, in both official, unofficial and Chinese and English sources.
The fishermen of Hong Kong do not think so highly of the dolphins traditionally. There are a few reasons. They believe that the dolphins are the reincarnations of the seamen lost at sea. They do not symbolize good luck. As a practical matter, the fishermen steer away from the dolphins when they fish because the dolphins will certainly drive away the fish.
The pink dolphins of Hong Kong are not oceanic dwellers. Because they live where the ocean meets the river, the waters of Tung Chung in southwestern Hong Kong are their only habitat due to the salinity of the water. In nowhere else are the dolphins found in Hong Kong, despite Hong Kong’s rich marine life throughout its territory. There are a few developments in Hong Kong that threatens the habitat for these dolphins.
It would not be surprising that a few well-known culprits have contributed to the dropping numbers of the pink dolphins. The large-scale development projects of the third runway of the Hong Kong International Airport and the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge are believed to have caused an adverse effect to the only habitat for the pink dolphins in Hong Kong. After the construction phase of the bridge, the count of pink dolphins in that area dropped 20% as compared to the pre-construction years a decade ago (Ching Sze Ip). According to the Hong Kong Dolphin Conservation Society, “At least 45-50 dolphins routinely use the footprint of the third runway reclamation site as their main habitat, they are the direct victims.”
Furthermore, pollution due to the water and the sea traffic, along with fishing activities in the area, continue to affect the habitat for the pink dolphins. Some of these human activities have caused injuries to the pink dolphins.
About a decade ago, there were more than 100 pink dolphins living in the Hong Kong waters. A few years ago in 2018, coincidental to the completion and opening of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge, the count of the pink dolphins dropped to 32. It is believed that the most recent count is at 40, which is good news, but a far cry from the peak count twenty years ago.
On-site Introduction by the Eco Association Limited.
Ching Sze Ip, The Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphins of Hong Kong— Not Much Time Left for the Mascot of the Handover? April 24, 2020, BBC Chinese News.
Hong Kong Dolphin Conservation Society, “30 Third Runway Victims Campaign.”
The Wikipedia on Melon (cetacean).
The Wikipedia on Dolphin.
The Wikipedia on Kai Yat Kok (Chin).
The story of the Fanling Magistracy Post WWII Hong Kong was a place of booming industry and commerce. With that also came the problem of crime. The New Territories then was not unlike the wild, wild west, where hooligans and drug lords ran rampant. It was …
The trail of the day is to hike from the Pokfield Road stairs to the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir. I have headed up the trails from the Pokfield Road stairs a few times. This time is no different. Next to the gas station of Pokfield …
The trail of today is a two-looped walk from the Lions Nature Education Centre in Tsiu Hang, then Ma Lam Wat Village, and return via Tai Ngam Hau, then back to Tsiu Hang.
I have previously written on the Lions Nature Education Centre. Because I am familiar with this area already, I decided to head out to the Ma Lam Wat Village from the Tsiu Hang Nature Trail.
From Lions Nature Education Centre I headed toward the Deaf Cafeteria. Lying further is the entrance to the Tsiu Hang Nature Trail. Head up the flight of stairs and within ten minutes you will come across the sign pointing you to the direction of Ma Lam Wat.
I kept walking and then within half an hour reached this crossroads. I went straight toward the Ma Lam Wat Direction.
At this crossroads, I went on the path on the right. Soon I passed by the pavilion.
After a significant flight of stairs down, I came across this T intersection. There is a sign pointing to Ma Lam Wat. Note that, when I returned, I would go back on the path on the right in this picture, instead of climbing up back on the same way.
Again, at this sign, follow the sign to Ma Lam Wat to go straight. The path slightly upward on the right will lead you to the Trio Beach.
At this crossroads, I followed the sign for Ma Lam Wat, although the path on the left will also lead you to Pak Ma Tsui via Tai Ngam Hau. In fact, this was the route with which I returned.
I reached Ma Lam Wat after about one hour and twenty minutes later.
At the end of the village, I realised that I would have to trek the coast in order to reach Pak Ma Tsui, which is the very southern tip of Ma Lam Wat peninsula. A previous experience trekking the coast of Starling Inlet from So Lo Pun was a warning to me. I then somehow found a way to head out on an inland route to go back via Tai Ngam Hau. This trail lies somewhat upwards in the higher grounds close to the ruins section of the village.
I must forewarn readers here however. This route goes through a wild stretch of the mountain without clear paths. The whole way was unpaved, and I had to rely on the hiking ribbons. At some point, I also heard the groan of a wild animal, and it could have been a boar. I grabbed a thick branch and quietly moved through without incident, but this section of the trail is dangerous.
If you want to avoid this wild trail in Tai Ngam Hau, do simply turn back the same way from the Ma Lam Wat Village for your return. You would have to miss the views at Pak Ma Tsui this way, but because the mountainous path at Tai Ngam Hau was too rigorous for me, I ended up giving it a pass myself.
I did make my way through Tai Ngam Hau, and finally came upon somewhat more standard trails to head back.
Ma Lam Wat is a village. It is still inhabited with many waterfront properties. From what I could observe, the residents really enjoy boating and they rely on ferries as their main means of transportation. If you would like to take a ferry back, do inquire with the villagers there.
Photos: A panorama view at Ma Lam Wat Village
Lying on the eastern coast of the new territories, at the southwestern shore of the Ma Lam Wat peninsula, the village is likely consisted of the Wan clan, as there is a well-kept ancestral hall for the Wan’s there. Otherwise I was not able to locate too much information about the village. Suffice to say, it is a very picturesque spot tucked away in the coasts of Sai Kung.
On my way back, I did not go via the mountainous trails, but instead headed on Che King Tuk Road. On the way is the yacht shelter for the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club and the Hong Kong Marina. There were royal, luxurious yachts docked there, and there were also humble rowing boats. The waterfront properties were certainly points of envy for me. This view of the yacht shelter is really quite exceptional, bespeaking a lifestyle not known to most commoners in Hong Kong.
Photos: A panorama view of the yacht shelter on Che King Tuk Road.
This trail is generously shaded throughout, and even though I did it in a hot late summer afternoon, I did not have trouble with the heat. I did sweat profusely, but there was no danger of a heat stroke. However, I neglected in bringing a snack. The trail took longer than expected, and I suffered from low energy toward the end. Therefore, make sure you bring a whole lot of water and some snacks.
Although the hiking app stated that it took 2.5 hours for a round trip, I took 4.5 hours because of the hot weather, which induced the need to take frequent breaks. I have walked 8km for this hike.
Bus Routes 792M and 92 stop at the Pak Kong Bus Stop. Once off the bus, look for signs to the Lions Nature Education Centre. The minibus Routes 1, 1A, 12 and 101M also stop there.
There is also a free parking lot with limited parking spots for small private cars at the Lions Nature Education Centre, so be sure to get there early, especially if you are going with a family with children.
The fish intestines! You know the cost of the water that goes into cleaning them would end up more than that of the intestines themselves! The owner of Yixin Restaurant jested about this traditional Cantonese dish on the radio food show, The Golden Plaque. A …
On this final day in Hue, I decided to take a look at some special sites in the city. An easy stroll around the city would do for me. The An Dinh Palace You can’t miss the luxury and the preoccupation with all things western …
Orchards, farming fields, outdoor education areas, air-conditioned exhibition centres, a lotus pad, short hiking trails and a nice café – what location offers better summer outing options than Tsiu Hang? The 24-acre Tsiu Hang Special Area is a designated area of environmental conservation. It received its special area status in December 1987, and since then it has come under the management of the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department. In this area, 16 acres are dedicated to the Lions Nature Education Centre, its facilities and the well-manicured garden space.
We have not hiked very much since May of this year. For most of May and June the days were too rainy. Came July, a long stretch of 21 super hot days prevented us from hiking as well. On this August day, we were expecting a typhoon, but because Tsiu Hang comes with many indoor facilities, we decided that if it rained on us, we would have ready refuge in the exhibition centres and the café there.
As it turns out, although there were rolling thunders throughout the time we were there, the rain did not come. In fact, it was sunny for the whole afternoon, but not too hot due to the rain in the past few days. All in all, the weather was perfect.
The entrance to the special area lies right across the Pak Kong bus stop. Just a brief five minute walk to the Lions Nature Education Centre was already a pleasant experience. Beautiful blooming trees lined the pathway. We saw fruit-bearing trees as well, with pear-looking fruits hanging. Butterflies hovered around the floral trees.
The Lions Nature Education Centre runs four exhibition centres on fisheries, agriculture, shells and insects at the Tsiu Hang Special Area. There are interesting displays with interactive features on-site. All of them are very educational and suitable for young children.
There are some thriving farming patches in the special area. We saw lush bushes of lemongrass there, and also some water melon seedlings as well. Please do not pick them, however, as the caretakers do monitor their crops. They will investigate if they see damages. Even in just a few hours there we saw how much effort went into caring for the fields. Please treat the environment with love.
After the farming patches, we came across this area with different floral bushes that attracted a throng of butterflies. Their presence testifies to the vibrancy of wild lives in the special area.
The Tsiu Hang Nature Trial lies a bit further from the Deaf Cafeteria. The trail is short by itself, but due to the heat I walked an even shorter part of it. I sweated quite a bit, although the trail came with generous shades. There was only one flight of stairs, and I made my way on a loop back to the lotus pond.
The lotus pad is small but quite a number of the lotuses there were blooming. They glow in a lively pink amidst a sea of green pads. Under the bright summer sun, water droplets glistened within the folds of the green lotus leaves, scintillating the brilliance of diamonds.
As its name suggests, the Deaf Cafeteria has the special mission for hiring staff with hearing impairment. It was an initiative of the Hong Kong Society for the Deaf with support from the Hong Kong Jockey Club and the Hong Kong Lions Club International District 303.
It is, like many of its other well-managed counterparts in Hong Kong, a successful social enterprise. I only had a café latte there, and it boosted my mood significantly. From what I could observe, the food is also decent and they are reasonably priced. They serve regular meals, finger foods, hamburgers, and Hong Kong style tea sets. If weather permits, the outdoor seating area will be a great way to spend a relaxing afternoon.
As you can see, the Tsiu Hang Special Area is well-managed with a wide array of designated areas serving both aesthetic and educational purposes. As a whole the area demonstrates how thoughtful human touches can bring forth the best of nature. An easy afternoon here with your children can’t go wrong.
Finally, from the Tsiu Hang Nature Trail, you may venture out to Nam Ma Wat for a proper hike by the seaside, with much better views.
We took Bus 92 from Diamond Hill to Sai Kung, and got off at the Pak Kong Bus Stop. Once off the bus, look across the street and the entrance to the Lions Nature Education Centre is right there. Bus Route 792M also stops by Pak Kong. The minibus Routes 1, 1A, 12 and 101M also stop there.
There is also a parking lot with limited parking spots for small private cars, so be sure to get there early, especially if you are going with a family with children.
To explore the whole area of Lions Nature Education Centre, please do allow for at least half a day. Bring sunscreen, hats and enough water with you. Although there are shaded resting areas and air-conditioned facilities, the outdoor area can be extremely hot in mid-summer.
The Wikipedia on the Tsiu Hang Special Area (Chin).
Lions Nature Education Centre, The Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department.
The Hong Kong Society for the Deaf on Deaf Cafeteria (Chin).
“So what’s the plan for our walk in Peng Chau?” My besties finally had a chance to get together for a day trip to Peng Chau. “No plan, let’s just walk around aimlessly.” Sounds like a plan, and it turned out to be a good …