Vignettes of the World
The Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is a small exhibition of an excavated ancient tomb dated to the Han Dynasty. It stands as testament to the presence of China’s ancient civilization in Hong Kong. Indeed, it was rather surprising for me to learn that …
It is approaching summertime now, but the spring of 2022 was a heavenly time for the photographers of Hong Kong. Fellow bloggers have taken wonderful photos of the spring blossom all over Hong Kong. In late April, my friend and I visited the Cherry Street …
Po Kwu Wan is a small bay west of the neighboring High Island Reservoir in Sai Kung. The ruins of a concrete enclosure of a former fishing farm turns it into a moon-shape bay. It is quite an experience to “walk on the ocean” on the semi-circle concrete ruins.
It takes an easy walk of about an hour to arrive at Po Kwu Wan. We began by first having lunch in Sai Kung Town. After lunch, we took green top minibus Route 7 at the minibus station. Getting off at the Sheung Yiu stop, watch out for the signs pointing to the Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail. That is the entrance to the trail.
At this crossroads, take the direction to Hei Tsz Wan Village, on the left.
At this crossroads, take the path on the left.
If you choose to digress by going right and down the stairs, you will come to a little pier (photo below). It is a good spot for pictures. Now go back to the crossroads and head to the path on the left as shown on the photograph above.
But going left at the crossroads above, you will reach Po Kwu Wan. On this section, watch out for the hiking ribbons on your right. This will lead you to Po Kwu Wan. You will soon come across a T section, it does not matter whether you take the path on your right or your left. You will loop on the concrete enclosure at the former fish farm and back to the same point for exit.
To return, go back the same way.
Photos above: Views on the Trail.
Unfortunately, the Sheung Yiu Folk Museum is currently undergoing renovation. It should remain closed for most of this year. I will therefore just refer to the website of Hong Kong Heritage Museum for a brief introduction.
Located inside the scenic Sai Kung Country Park and occupying an area of 500 square metres, the Sheung Yiu Folk Museum was originally a Hakka village built in the late 19th century. The village and its neighbouring lime kiln were gazetted as monuments in 1981. After it was restored, the village was opened as a museum in 1984.
The Sheung Yiu villages were of Hakka origin, with the surname Wong. They have settled down in this area of Sai Kung since the 19th century, but deserted their village homes around 1965 or so. Perhaps a decade ago I have visited this museum on a hike. I remember just a bit of information. The villagers have mostly gone abroad and they donated the village homes for preservation by the government. I look forward to it reopening so that I can revisit it to revive my memories.
Very close to the museum lies the ruins of the lime kiln. Both the village homes and this lime kiln are Grade 1 historic buildings.
The Wong’s of Sheung Yiu built this lime kiln with bricks and rubble stones. The kiln was fired with straw and wood. Corals and shells yielded lime after several days of burning. Lime was a common material in those days for agricultural-use fertilizers and mortar. Lime-making was once a prosperous industry in the villages of Sai Kung. However, with the advance of modern-day brick and cement making, trade and production of lime declined.
Besides the graded historic buildings, this trail will also lead you to some pretty interesting ruins along the way. The only indication of the history of this village is the signage of “Pang Shing Tong” (Pang Shing Hall) on one of the structures.
It is natural for anyone to assume that the villagers must have been of the Pang lineage. However, a quick search online yielded an alternative hypothesis, although for which I am not able to fact-check.
Pang Shing, in ancient Chinese history, refers to the Liu descendants from the ancestor Liu Ren. (In Cantonese, the surname Liu is pronounced as Lau). During the late Warring States period, Liu Ren moved to Fengyi, at the time belonging to the Wei Kingdom. He founded his family there. His grandson, Liu Bang, would become one of the best known statesmen in Chinese history. Liu Bang was the founding emperor of the glorious Han Dynasty.
Fengyi was also known as Peng Cheng (in Cantonese, Pang Shing). Originally this became the Tang Hao, a way of address to a direct lineage within a clan, for the descendants of Liu Bang. In more modern times, those of the Lau surname liked to take on “Pang Shing” as a way to share in the proud heritage of Liu Bang.
Perhaps this then indicates that the village in ruins on the Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail was rather of the surname Lau.
Once you are at Po Kwu Wan, head on over to walk the concrete enclosure. You will enjoy 360 views of Po Kwu Wan Bay and the mountainous views afar.
Photos above: A Panorama of the Concrete Enclosure of the Former Fish Farm
The concrete enclosure of the former fishing farm is in ruins. There are three sections of the ruins that are somewhat broken, and requires extra care for one to walk through. I “sat and slid” through two of them. They are certainly wide enough for one to walk upon, but it seemed dangerous to me. My advice is perhaps to go with someone, just to watch out for each other.
There is also a chance that, at high tide, the water will submerge part of the concrete enclosure, therefore blocking the way. My suggestion is to visit the site in the afternoon, when the tides are low.
Throughout this part of the walk, there is no climbing involved at all, if Po Kwu Wan is your only destination. There are branching trails in the area, but beware that they are not as clear as the Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail, which is a standard trail. Therefore, if you plan on taking detours from the Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail, be sure to look up the map on your hiking app.
Historic descriptions on-site.
The Hong Kong Heritage Museum on Sheung Yiu Folk Museum.
Baidu Hong Kong on Pang Shing Tong (Chin).
From Sai Kung town, take green top minibuses Routes 7 or 9, or bus Routes 94,96R, 289R. Get off at the Sheung Yiu Stop. To leave, perhaps 289R is the best choice as it takes you directly back to Shatin.
By private car, park at the car park at Sai Kung Country Park Visitor Centre. If you are to go on the weekend or a public holiday, it may fill up quite early. Then walk about five, eight minutes on Tai Mong Tsai Road (the area past the gate is restricted, you may not drive on that section), and arrive at Fat Kee Store, with signs pointing you to the Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail.
The Asia Society holds an exhibition Recovery, Resilience, Resurgence at the Chantal Miller Gallery of Asia Society. My friends and I paid a visit on a leisurely Friday afternoon. The Exhibition Recovery, Resilience, Resurgence is currently open until 31st July, 2022. Recovery, Resilience, Resurgence features the …
The breakfast at the Melody Hostel was something that I looked forward to every morning. The lady that cooked breakfast and managed the Hostel was Ling. She has two children. She showed me the photographs from their family vacations. I gathered from the photographs that …
A young Vietnamese woman came to pick me up in her motorbike. She had nice long flowy hair, perfect skin and a round face that said friendliness all over. She also spoke perfect English. I liked her immediately.
Mandy was my guide for the day. She would be taking me to the Thanh Toan Village for a tour, then to the cooking class.
Mandy studied English as her major in the university. She said that most Vietnamese learn English as their second language now, although French remains the next most popular foreign language. I had a very nice conversation with her about Vietnam.
The azure of Vietnam’s sky brushed the sights in Thanh Toan with a stroke of upbeat mood. Rice paddies and duck ponds rolled into view, one after another, as the motorbike passed by. The Vietnamese typically plant two crops of rice per year. The farmers have already planted the first crop of rice for the year. They expected the harvest to come in May.
Mandy asked me if the Hong Kong people eat ducks, I said most certainly. We like them roasted.
I noted that the village was well-kept with nicely-paved roads. Tourism must have helped this village? She nodded to that observation. Thanh Toan is clearly prosperous, and the villagers do continue in farming and livestock rearing.
Our first stop was at the local market. She showed me the sweets that they use for worship in the Tet (the lunar new year). The village would soon be decorating for the Tet, perhaps in a few days. I asked her about the wrestling matches. She said that the wrestling matches took place during the Tet. I would have returned to Hong Kong then.
In this local market I noticed that there were salmon, and she said that fishermen go out to the sea not far from Hue. Salmon is a sea catch. I noticed bunches of green bananas harvested while still attached to their stems. She told me that these green bananas were for decoration at the worship altar. That makes sense, as food are constantly placed before the worship altars and green bananas last longer.
We then toured the beautiful Japanese bridge. The tour websites say that this is the same bridge as the one in Hoi An, but Mandy told me the difference. This one in Thanh Toan was wholly built by the Vietnamese people although in the style of the Japanese Bridge in Hoi An. Back then, the village was too poor to construct the bridge. Villagers used to either swim or boat across the river.
A woman who had no children wanted to do good, so she donated all her money to building this bridge. She still didn’t end up having children, however. The villagers remembered her for this everlasting contribution. The altar inside the bridge is dedicated to her. Mandy said that during the summer, the bridge is very cool inside. That’s why many villagers would bring along their pillows for naps.
Flooding is a very serious problem in Vietnam. I have discussed the experience in a previous entry on Hoi An. Here in Hue, the problem is just as severe. The flooding pole is an indication to the villagers the rise of water levels. From this tall pole you can see that the flood can be so serious to reach its top. The plates next to the markers denote the water level of various floodings over the years.
We arrived at the Thanh Toan Eco Home, an airy open kitchen beneath a thatched roof. I was pleased to see a bamboo boat as the working table for my class. The effort to make this a village cooking session in a subtropical environment was gimmicky, but I liked it. It is a thoughtful touch.
I was the only one on that tour. Mandy introduced me to the teacher. We then sat down for a welcome drink. She asked me what’s in it. I said there are herbs. Then she named lemon, honey, lemongrass and still others.
The class began and I was in earnest. The chef first showed me the ingredients for the spring rolls. There was meat (uncooked), lots of coriander, scallion, shallots, wood ear, carrots and etc. He instructed that I shred and dice them. The egg yolk served as the binder. There was also no “sealing” with egg whites of the skin (it’s rice paper). Due to the texture of this rice paper, the rolls are formed completely when they meet hot oil. When I have mixed the ingredients, he set it aside and showed me the next dish.
This second dish would be my favorite out of the three. Diced pork, some shrimp, lots of herbs again, and the Vietnamese fig. The soul of this dish is actually the oyster sauce. After me chopping up the fig, he dried it by twisting in a towel. Then all ingredients pan fried to perfection, with perfect seasoning, and served on shrimp crackers. By this time the open kitchen was filled with delightful aroma.
I can easily gather the same ingredients back home, save for the fig. I asked Mandy if people eat the fig raw. She said yes, some do, but when eaten raw, it is rather bitter.
Mandy tried my cooking. It pleases me that I could “cook” Vietnamese food for a Vietnamese. I then looked forward to the Banh Khoai next.
The chef did not show me how the batter was mixed together. He just said 1 tablespoon of rice flour, one tablespoon of flour and two tablespoons of water. What gives the “taco” (the crunchy pancake wrap) its yellow color is turmeric. I would not have guessed that. Then the ingredients inside consist of small pieces of cooked pork, scallions, shrimp and a quail egg.
I was most excited when he showed me how to fry the taco. First, one full tablespoon of oil. Wait for it to heat up, then pour all oil back to the bowl, and cool just a little before pouring one ladle of batter into the small frying pan. When the pancake is half cooked and formed, keep pouring oil to the rims of the pancake, then put the ingredients in. I broke the quail egg then. Then fold the pancake into half, and thoroughly, thoroughly brown both sides. I thought it was slightly too brown and also too much oil at the rim, but I could certainly experiment when I am back home.
I think the Banh Khoai is the most Hue-specific food on the menu for this day. It was yummy.
Then we pan fried the spring rolls with generous oil. All done!
Mandy and I sat down for our meal. There was additional pumpkin soup and lemongrass chicken with rice. When we had the meal, she asked, “do people here think that you are Vietnamese?” I told her I was very flattered hearing that.
She said that what I cooked that morning were common food for the Vietnamese people. This was made the rustic, village-wholesome way. I was very thankful for that introduction. The soup, the rice and all the food was fantastic. In fact, this was the only meal in Hue in which I felt too full. Generally, portions are small at the restaurants.
The chef was then busy with another couple, so Mandy took me back to the hostel. She asked me what I did for a living. I said I did translation and writing, and she said she also did translation on the side. Her home village was near the Royal tombs, but her family moved to Hue. It is uncommon for the Vietnamese young people to move out from home before they get married. Surprisingly, her parents have not pressured her to get married. I then told her how I find my single life to be carefree. She agreed with me.
When we were on our way back I asked her about the nice apartments I saw on the way. She said that those were mostly for the young, newly-married couples. The family would buy them these apartments as their matrimonial home. They cost around US 50k.
It was not even 1pm yet when I returned to the hostel. I debated and eventually decided to take a look at the fishing village of Bao Vinh.
I like visiting the local wet markets of Vietnam. The colors and smells of fresh produce in the markets are always so stimulating. Busy scenes of vendors selling food to morning shoppers are the best show of Vietnam’s vibrant street life. So on this free …
The tour at the DMZ brought me to a place in a time long past. In the decades since, Vietnam has made great strides from the traumas of the American War. That also came with the serious and mutual efforts with the United States to …
I asked Mr. T what he thinks of America.
“We have no problem with the American people. We don’t like the U.S. government.”
At some point, I asked also what he thought of China.
“We have no problem with the Chinese people. We don’t like the Chinese government.”
I thought that was the most diplomatic answer he could have given to a foreigner. Although, I do think that the American people are quite a different animal as compared to the Chinese people, at least when it comes down to Vietnam. The kind of brainwashing in Communist China does significantly affect the worldviews of the ordinary Chinese people. China’s current relationships with its Southeast Asian neighbors are rife with strife.
That said, of course, America’s official worldview does have its own arrogance and hypocrisies. But as it relates to Vietnam, I do think most ordinary Americans would have more nuanced views. After all, it was a painful chapter in America’s recent history. There have been decades of rethinking on the subject since as well.
Photo: A Display at the Desire for Unification Exhibition Hall
After the Battle of Dien Bien Phu, the Viet Minh (then the united front of the Communist Party of Vietnam) proclaimed victory against the French. The world powers met to discuss arrangements for both the Korean Peninsula and Indochina. It was at this time that France officially ended its influence in its former colonies in Indochina.
In the Geneva Conference of 1954, the powers decided that Vietnam would be split into North and South Vietnam. The Viet Minh would govern the North, while the former and last emperor of Vietnam, Bao Dai, would govern the South. The Geneva Accords signed at this conference also provided for a democratic election to take place in 1956 to determine which government would eventually govern a united Vietnam. Therefore the split of Vietnam was meant to be only temporary.
Other critical developments of the Geneva Conference of 1954 included the creation of Laos and Cambodia as independent states. This would turn out to bear critically upon developments in the Vietnam War. The parties signed ceasefire accords as they relate to Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam at this conference as well. As for Korea, the armistice was also signed.
For three hundred days after the Geneva Conference, there was a ceasefire. All sides were supposed to withdraw troops. Within the 300-day window, which the United Nations protected, people within all of Vietnam was free to move across the nation. And there was indeed lots of movement. One million North Vietnamese moved south. This has enabled North Vietnam to send spies down to the South. Some of the North Vietnamese that stayed in the South would end up fighting guerilla wars there. Meanwhile, 12-15,000 South Vietnamese followed the Communists and moved north. There would be no more moving after this 300-day window.
However, the vote never came, due to South Vietnam’s eventual refusal to hold the election. As a result of the failure in holding the election, Vietnam remained divided. Beginning in 1956 and for the subsequent two decades, there was a North Vietnam and a South Vietnam.
With this development, the DMZ became the actual political and ideological border between the Communist North and the Capitalist South.
The stage was thus set for the American War to come.
The former border that divides North and South Vietnam was the Ben Hai River, running on the east-west direction somewhere south of the 17th Parallel. It extends from the border with Laos and reaches out to the South China Sea. The DMZ was a neutral zone, on a stretch of 5km north and south of the river, running uniformly throughout the former border.
There are quite a number of Demilitarised Zones still operating in the world today. The best known one is the divide between the two Koreas at the 38th parallel. The former divide between North and South Vietnam no longer has any military significance, because North Vietnam eventually took over all of Vietnam.
The Demilitarised Zones are somewhat of a misnomer. Although these zones are intended to be “an area in which treaties or agreements between nations, military powers or contending groups forbid military installations, activities, or personnel,” (Wikipedia) armed conflicts often broke out there. And for the 17th parallel in Vietnam, it had been a site of much atrocities.
The United States withdrew its forces from the DMZ in August 1971. Thereafter, in 1972, North Vietnam attacked the DMZ, occupied it and also Quang Tri.
Photo: At the end of Hien Luong Bridge, one will come across the Welcome Gate in former North Vietnam.
The French were the first to construct the original Hien Luong Bridge in 1928. This bridge was the main means with which the Vietnamese people moved either north or south during the 300-day ceasefire period in 1954.
U.S. bombing in 1967 has resulted in the destruction of the original bridge.
During the time that Vietnam was divided, the Hien Luong Bridge bore the two colors of half red, and half yellow. This indicated the separation and demarcation of the two Vietnams. For the respective colors marked where the half ownership of the bridge began on the other side of Vietnam.
The bridge underwent restoration both in 1974, and in 2001, for the purpose of attracting tourism and preserving history. It is now in half yellow (south) and half blue (north) to indicate the reunification of Vietnam.
Photo: The Hien Luong Bridge only serves the tourists now. As shown in this photo, there is a proper highway that goes over the Ben Hai River now for all vehicular traffic.
The Monument of Desire for a Unified Country stands on the southern bank. It features a young woman with her son longing for reunification with a loved one. The idea clearly appeals to the traditional values of family and national unity, rather than ideological persuasion. Although, as with everything at the DMZ, one cannot miss the clear expression of communist style architecture in this monument, I would say it reminds me of the Soviet Union even.
I like museums, and I thought this one was more interesting than the one at the Khe Sanh Combat Base. Certainly, both museums did come off as being too eager to flaunt victory. But ultimately, being able to unite Vietnam against the war machinery of the United States is unquestionably a feat of lasting significance. Propaganda aside, the least that one can take from the museum is the horrifying costs of war. That message was not lost amidst the endless and self-serving glorification.
I particularly liked this display of a woman sewing the flag. This was not just any flag, however. This was the original 9m x 12m flag that flew on the North Vietnam flagpole. I suspect that it was once the flag-fighting flag as well.
Because both South Vietnam and the United States periodically targeted the large flagpole, both the flag and the pole required consistent repair. The woman on display here won a title for her work in mending the flag.
Now the national flag of Vietnam flies at all poles in Vietnam, and this one at the DMZ surely is a proud display of nationalism. The national flag features a bright red background with a lone gold star. The red stands for revolution and bloodshed; the star represents the key groups in Vietnam, as they are categorized in the country’s communist ideology.
Flag fighting also took place here between the North and the South. This reminds me of the same in the two Koreas.
Again, not unlike the practice of North Korea, the loudspeakers of the North Vietnam also played propaganda to the South continuously through these loudspeakers during the time of division. South Vietnam reciprocated by also playing its tunes to the North. These loudspeakers were the original.
The Wikipedia on the Demilitarised Zone.
Ha Thanh, Once a Divided Nation: The River that Saw it All, VNEXPRESS.
The Wikipedia on the 1954 Geneva Conference.
The Wikipedia on the Hien Luong Bridge.
The Wikipedia on Flag of Vietnam.
The Britannica on the 17th Parallel.
Cau Dakrong The Dakrong Bridge (Cau Dakrong), lies at the midway on Route 9. It also marks the beginning of Highway 15. During the American War, the Dakrong Bridge was a hotly-contested spot, being the access point of the Ho Chi Minh Trail (more below). …