Vignettes of the World
Hong Kong is “a dining heaven,” and the people of Hong Kong are natural epicureans. From the very basic to the very upscale, the food scene of Hong Kong is one of abundance. There is a king choice for every edible and non-edible category you …
The Story of the Chinese Rhenish Church in Hong Kong The Chinese Rhenish Church Hong Kong Synod is a protestant church of the Lutheran denomination. Originally from the Nordrhein-Westfalen region in Germany during the early 19th century, the Rhenish church’s mission arm began in Wuppertal …
We took a bus to Siena from Florence and arrived 1.5 hours later. Siena made a great first impression, but perhaps not as breathtaking as San Gimignano.
During the Middle Ages, Siena was a rival of Florence in terms of culture, commerce, art and cityscape. Like Florence, Siena was once an independent state as a republic, and the republic lasted for four hundred years between the 12th century and 1555. A long history of developed commerce made it the center of trade and finance. Siena is home to the one of the oldest banks in continuous operation in Europe, and the Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena stands as the testament to this proud history.
Needless to say, the Piazza Del Campo, which is a UNESCO heritage, was the primary interest for us as first-time visitors. During the 13th century, this plaza was a marketplace. Then “it was paved in 1349 in fishbone-patterned red brick with 8 lines of travertine, which divide the piazza into 9 sections, radiating from the mouth of the gavinone (the central water drain) in front of the Palazzo Pubblico… From the piazza, eleven narrow shaded streets radiate into the city.” (Wikipedia) The nine segments represent the Government of the Nine, the seat of which was the Palazzo Pubblico right by the square.
The Piazza remains the very center of local life and international events today.
And surely, there was this incredible charm at the Piazza Del Campo. Although knowing that dining would be very expensive there, we decided to do al fresco at a café. We savored coffee and the view of the Palazzo Pubblico. There had to be enough replenishments before we climb the tower.
We were determined to climb the very tall Torre de Mangia (the Mangia Tower, meaning the “Eater’s” Tower). As compared to the Pisa Tower, the climb of the Mangia Tower was not too rigorous. There were certainly less tourists, and as much as the steps were narrow, there was no pressure to rush up. We took little breaks and many pictures on our way up.
The all-around view of Siena at the top was spectacular. Houses baked under the Tuscan sun, their colors are of Siena, a strong, rustic brown, somewhat burnt, and certainly roasted. The bricks that made up the medieval Sienese structures were products of the commune, which made sure that they met certain standards. This was what gave Sienese buildings their architectural integrity. Despite its height, at Torre de Mangia we still did not manage to take a picture that captures the whole shell-shaped piazza down below.
The sculptures on the buildings of Siena are unique. They seem to be wearing expressions of exasperation, as if they were meeting death. There is also a clear deference to animals. Of course, the most impressive image was the bronze sculpture of the Capitoline Wolf at the Palazzo Pubblico. It conveys the Roman myth of a she-wolf suckling the mythical twin founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus.
The stone plaque is dedicated to Roman Siena and St. Catherine of Siena.
On our way to the Duomo, we bought cherry tomatoes and strawberries. They came freshly off the field. We saw the strawberry leaves slowly wilting as we ate them. What a nice taste of Italian freshness.
The Duomo is yet another display of grandeur. Its white marble façade is “clad externally with a black and white marble cladding, which references the city’s coat of arms” (Prina at 95). Not atypical of its counterparts, the Siena Cathdral underwent a century-long construction.
It was consecrated in 1179, but work continued all through the 13th century. The Bell tower was completed in 1264 (Id).
The sculptures on the façade seem more expressive than what I observed in Florence. Many of the human sculptures extend their arms, and dotted along are representations of different animals. The gothic school may have a wholly different world view when it comes down to the relationship between God, humans and religion.
As we noticed before, all the Tuscan cities had a character of its own. I still favored San Gimignano over all the others, but there was not a moment of repetitiveness in visiting each city. The decorated history of Italy has enabled an exceptional variety of experience in each of its gems.
The Wikipedia on the Piazza del Campo.
The Wikipedia on Siena.
The Wikipedia on the Capitoline Wolf.
Francesca Prina, The Story of Gothic Architecture (2011).
The medieval town of San Gimignano is a kind of place that you can fall in love with at first sight. It is not of the same grand sophistication as Florence, the city of culture. Yet San Gimignano has a long history of its own. …
The pristine water of Tung Ping Chau made its first impression and I saw the amazing beauty of nature right away. Even as close to human presence as the pier is, the aquamarine colored water there is so clear that you can see the sea …
Ha Pak Nai is known for its views of beautiful sunset. Being on the westernmost coast of Hong Kong, the location offers unobstructed views of a sun setting over the ocean, and the view of Route 10 (the Shenzhen Bay Bridge) sitting above Deep Bay afar.
In this entry, I will discuss the sunset there as well as a special heritage site inside the Ha Pak Nai Tsuen Village.
We found the driving to Ha Pak Nai to be more challenging than we were prepared (more below). We therefore stopped somewhere on Nim Wan Road with a platform type of structure where we could watch the sunset safely. People typically go further down the road for a location where they can walk on the muddy shore at low tide. We gave that a pass this time.
At this spot, we could see the oyster harvest. Usually, at sunset hours the tides are low. There is also a pretty good view of the mangroves there.
The 1911 Revolution that overturned the Qing Dynasty and finally ended imperial China was an effort of many brave souls. Dr. Sun Yat-sen has garnered support internationally for his cause. In the final phase of the Revolution, Dr. Sun Yat-sen took Hong Kong to be the base to organize societies. They often operated commercial entities to promote the revolution, gain supporters, raise funds and transport weapons.
In fact, from 1895 onwards, at least eight uprisings used Hong Kong as the base of operation. The 1895 Guangzhou Uprising was one. The Tong Meng Hui (Chinese Revolutionary Alliance) was founded in 1905. Hong Kong’s international nature has helped it to serve critical functions in communication, fundraising and organization especially for international supporters of the cause.
The two key persons that had a significant influence in the operation in Hong Kong were Li Ki-tong and Tang Yam-nam. Li Ki-tong was a key source of funding for the Revolution, and he met Dr. Sun Yat-sen in Hong Kong. Tang Yam-nam met Dr. Sun Yat-sen in Honolulu, and donated all his life’s earnings to the cause as well. Both Li and Tang served in the post-revolution government in Guangdong.
The fortified structure at Ha Pak Nai was built by Tang Yam-nam in 1910 after the failed New Army Uprising in Guangzhou. Along with the Castle Peak Farm in Tuen Mun, this structure supported the 1911 Revolution.
Li Ki-tong built the Castle Peak Farm in 1901. At the time, the revolutionaries stored firearms, conducted shooting practices and helped the escaping revolutionaries that fled across the border. When Tang Yam-nam built this fortified structure in Pak Nai, he has meant it to give shelter to the escaped revolutionaries and to complement the operation of the Castle Peak Farm. If the situation called for an evacuation in the Castle Peak Farm, the revolutionaries could take refuge in Pak Nai via both land and sea routes.
Located in No. 39, Long Chok Tsuen Village, the fortified structure is well-restored. The blue brick building has two stories with a mezzanine floor between the first floor and the roof. The structure has gun holes for defense purposes and they are still visible now. There was another adjoining house, and also a rice mill and a sugar refinery nearby. Together they served to support the revolutionary cause. However, all of these other structures were long demolished.
There is a very small museum there with display boards introducing the very interesting history of this fortified structure. The visit takes only about half an hour. Since 2011, the structure has become a declared monument with protection by the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance.
We went by private car, and we found a suitable spot to watch the sunset along Nim Wan Road. We did not visit the areas of the shore where you can walk on muddy paths in low tide.
However, I must warn readers who plan on driving there. Nim Wan Road is the only throughway to get to Ha Pak Nai. It is also an exceptionally narrow road that has just one lane (for both directions). What makes the driving challenging is that there are many, many large vehicles (big trucks and even military vehicles) using this road. I think only experienced drivers should consider driving to Ha Pak Nai. At times even with the pass over shoulders of the road are too narrow for big trucks to pass through.
This road condition also causes severe traffic on this road during the weekends, when tourists flood the area to watch sunset. Therefore do good planning and perhaps avoid the weekend crowds.
One way to fully maximize a trip out to Yuen Long is to have dinner at Lau Fau Shan, which is famous for its seafood. The minibus will pass by Lau Fau Shan on its way back.
I took green top minibus Route 33 from Tai Fung Street in Yuen Long and got off at the final stop, where the village community center is. After getting off, you will see the sign pointing to the heritage site. Walk just one minute and you will arrive at the fortified structure.
Historic Descriptions On-site at the Fortified Structure of Ha Pak Nai Village.
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It was quite a walk from the Pisa Centrale to the Duomo and the Leaning Tower. I would say at least 30 minutes. We stopped by a small delicatessen kind of restaurant and paid a ridiculous check for a simple pasta lunch. We paid €18 …
Kowloon City is an old area in Hong Kong. Besides the famous heritage sites of the Kowloon Walled City, the Stonehouse Family Garden and the Hau Wong Temple, the area is also blessed with many long-standing businesses that have seen through the best of times in Hong Kong’s history.
Tai Wo Tong was once a traditional Chinese medicine shop that had a proud history of 80 years in business. Although it finally did close its doors, a local young man took up the business and revitalized the shop. It is now a café serving both coffee and pastries and regular dine-in meals.
The building that gives home to Tai Wo Tong was built in the 1920s. It remains what the Hong Kong people call “Tong building” (meaning old Chinese building). The original Chinese medicinal business began its long history in 1932. There were three generations of owners overseeing this shop. The oldest traditional Chinese doctor Chung Pak-ming came to Hong Kong in 1940. He was famous for both his medicine and philanthropy, and many well-known people came to see him. His son Chung Fook-lee took over when he passed away. Finally, a relative took over when Chung Fook-lee passed away as well.
The business then continued as a dried Chinese herbal shop. Its specialty was dried ginseng and deer antlers. The Chinese herbal shop closed its doors finally in mid-2017. Then came the current owner, a young man who grew up in Kowloon City, determined to keep the antique vibe of the shop in a different business.
Even at its doorstep one can feel the nostalgia. The original sign of Tai Wo Tong, painted in gold, sits proudly at the beam. As a venue for food and dining, the shop has a hip ambiance, especially that the owner has preserved the century-old herbal cabinets. The walls display the memorabilia of a time past, and its wooden benches match the setup with a touch of antiquity.
These century-old herbal cabinets still bear the original paper notes that delineated the contents each drawer contained. Back in the old days, the Chinese doctor kept the most expensive herbs in the top drawers. It required the most experienced doctor to prescribe those contents.
There are a few success indicators in the current Tai Wo Tong coffee shop. Besides the fact that there are always people lining up for a table (good marketing), the revitalization of the shop is well done as well. The food choices (more below) also meet the current dining trends that Hong Kong people favor.
On this weekday afternoon, we were very fortunate to be able to visit Tai Wo Tong. Usually, there is always too long a line there. But this time, we did not have to wait in line. In fact, when we sat down for our pastries, the patrons sitting close to us started leaving. We enjoyed our quiet time there.
In terms of food, the cooked food that the restaurant serves are more of the western style. We only wanted coffee and pastries, and the selection was interesting.
I wanted the black sesame soup, and the staff told me that it actually refers to a sesame cake. My friend ordered a “sweet bean curd and barley tart” and it was also a cake. We thought that the sweet bean curd and barley tart was a little on the sweet side. But the special Signature Vitality Tea, with dried longan, goji berries and red dates, was very much in line with Tai Wo Tong’s former glory as a herbal shop. The drinks were good.
With coffee and tea, my bestie and I chatted the afternoon away in a very pleasant and chic environment.
The address of Tai Wo Tong is 24 Nga Tsin Long Road, Kowloon City. The closest MTR station is Sung Wong Toi.
Tai Wo Tong, Discover Hong Kong, Hong Kong Tourism Board.
Tai Wo Tong Café, the Fragrance of Century-Old Medicinal Cabinets, Getreadyhk.com.
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