Vignettes of the World
Cau Dakrong The Dakrong Bridge (Cau Dakrong), lies at the midway on Route 9. It also marks the beginning of Highway 15. During the American War, the Dakrong Bridge was a hotly-contested spot, being the access point of the Ho Chi Minh Trail (more below). …
There were a few times in our conversations that Mr. T warned me of what I see on-site at the DMZ. “These are one-sided stories,” he said a few times. He grew up in the south, and he has known the country’s narrative before North …
The Cathedral of Immaculate Conception serves as the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Hong Kong. Its predecessor at Wellington Street was the first Catholic Church in Hong Kong.
The Cathedral of Immaculate Conception has the same beginning as British Hong Kong. In 1841, Britain took over Hong Kong Island during the First Opium War. Rome immediately set up a Prefecture Apostolic directly under its own supervision. A group of missionaries from Macao came to Hong Kong to set up a mission house. Thereafter, they built the church on Wellington Street. The congregation grew tremendously during this time.
In 1859, a fire broke out and the cathedral was burned to the ground. With donations from sympathetic followers and benefactors, the church underwent reconstruction soon. However, by the 1870s, the congregation had outgrown the premises. Another fire in 1878 threatened the church’s structure again. Around that time, Rome had also elevated the status of the prefecture into Vicariate Apostolic. The time was ripe for a new structure in a permanent site. The former Cathedral of Immaculate Conception on Wellington Street held its last Mass in May 1886.
During the late 1800s, Caine Road was a very popular neighborhood for Catholic initiatives. There were orphanages, schools, and mission houses there. In 1880, the Catholic Mission purchased the Glenealy Estate on 16 Caine Road. This would become the new site for a permanent Cathedral of Immaculate Conception.
In 1888, construction for the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception completed. On December 7, 1888, the church opened its doors again, a day before the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.
At the time, the Cathedral stood as the centerpiece amidst a strong Catholic presence on Caine Road. At some point the Bishop’s House, Nam Wah College, Wah Yan College, St Joseph’s Terrace and St. Joseph’s Home stood near. As time progressed, the Cathedral itself came to stand on its own, as the other Catholic buildings had to make way for high rise, luxurious developments on a prime location in the property market.
Finally, the church had its consecration on December 8, 1938. It was one of the first to be consecrated in China.
The Cathedral of Immaculate Conception on Caine Road was designed by Crawley & Company of London in the English Gothic style. Louis Ha gave a detailed description of the structure:
The cathedral is in the form of a Greek cross. Its north side is shorter than the south, a situation dictated by the shape of the land itself on which it stands. It measures 82 metres in length and is 40 metres wide, with a seating capacity of over 1,000. It rises to a height of 23.7 metres, except for its central tower which adds another 10 metres, creating a feeling of ample space and ventilation… Its walls are of brick and stone, laid on a granite platform… Buttresses run down both of its sides. (Louis Ha at 36)
Today, the three original marble altars remain on-site at the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. These marble altars were moved from the former site on Wellington Street. They are very much the testament to the cathedral’s long, sustained heritage in Hong Kong. It acquired the status of Grade 1 historic building in 1990.
There are four cathedral chapels as well, namely the Sacred Heart Chapel, the Chapel of Our Lord’s Passion, the Chapel of St. Joseph, and the Chapel of St. Anthony. The three original marble altars of Wellington Street are all in these cathedral chapels.
I thought the stained glass lining the two sides of the Cathedral were also beautiful. They came to the Cathedral at a much later time, however. The four windows near the Sacred Heart Chapel was done by French artist Louis Gesta in 1923. Opposite them, the stained glass by the Chapel of St. Joseph features the four gospel writers of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. The stained glass were made in Italy and donated by Mr. John Poon in 1985.
On a Saturday afternoon I visited the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception. It was a very sunny day and I was delighted in seeing the dense foliage of the neighborhood. The entrance to the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens is right at the doorstep of the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception as well.
The afternoon sunlight cast upon the Cathedral’s elegant contours. Standing in midst of luxurious high rises, the Cathedral’s distinctive architecture gleams a divine light upon this neighborhood. It is solemn here. Immediately, I felt comfort in my heart. I noticed that the front door of the church has been named The Door of Mercy, in celebration of the Jubilee of Mercy in 2015-2016. It bears a reference to John 10:9.
The exterior walls are in white, or a very pale gray, with occasional orange-pinkish details on some of the rooftops. This minimalist use of colors draws my attention to the sculpted details on the structure. The Gothic style of architecture is a style of “pointed arch, pointed rib-vaults… deep buttresses, window tracery, pinnacles, spires…” (Curl & Wilson on Gothic). I checked all these boxes. Although I lack the training in appreciating the significance of these features, they are certainly very pleasing to the eyes.
The Cathedral would just be a “colonial era building” to me, if I did not have to write this entry.
I stiffened my back and my dress before entering the nave.
The churches and cathedrals in Hong Kong cannot be compared to their antecedents in Europe in terms of architecture, scale, size and interior. That said, however, the relatively modest structure and adornment of the cathedrals in Hong Kong have a beauty of its own. I find the modesty to be more appealing to me personally, than the grand cathedrals in Europe. At the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception, I experienced calmness, restfulness, renewal and an unmistakable awareness of God’s presence. Whereas in most of the cathedrals in Europe, the imposing ornateness brought about a kind of holy glory that necessarily humbles you. I mostly felt awe there, though that is but a different experience.
I went around and quickly took some photographs. After about ten minutes, I could finally enjoy the serenity at the pew. And I really only sat there, all still, for half an hour.
I also found the line of confessionals, carved out of wood, to be a very special feature. According to Louis Ha, these confessionals replaced the original side altars only after the liturgical reforms of Vatican II initiated during the 1960s. I do not recall seeing such an extensive row of confessionals within the main structure of a cathedral before.
During the opening hours (see below), one may enter the Cathedral. As with all religious sites, it is meant to be a place of sanctity. Please be respectful. Dress appropriately for it. No open toe shoes, no tank tops. Bring a shawl to cover the bare shoulders if you plan on wearing a tank top. Remove hats when you are inside. Remain quiet and calm inside the nave.
Bus Routes 12, 12M, 13, 23, 103, 40M and 40 stop at the Caritas House. Head toward Glenealy after getting off at the bus stop. Walk a few steps upward on St. Joseph’s Terrace and you will see the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception on your right. It is behind the Caritas House.
The address is 16 Caine Road.
The Cathedral of Immaculate Conception opens daily from 7am to 7pm.
Louis Ha, 110 Year In the Grace of Our Lord (1999).
Catholic Diocese of Hong Kong, Cathedral of Immaculate Conception (Caine Road), cathlicheritage.org.hk.
The Wikipedia on the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception.
Curl & Wilson, The Oxford Dictionary of Architecture (2015).
I first encountered the MacIntosh Cathedrals at the Police Museum of Hong Kong. The name, the look and the history of these police forts captured my imagination right away. In this long entry, you will find information about how to reach the six currently accessible …
Checkerboard Hill is an easy stroll in Kowloon with wonderful city views. Like the stairs at Mei Ho House in Sham Shui Po, the Checkerboard Hill presents the skyline of Kowloon without requiring a strenuous climb. Perhaps it offers something more than the walk at …
I have long yearned to visit the lead mine pits of Lin Ma Hang. Due to the trail being somewhat challenging, I shelved the plan for a year until I found some companions to go with. The opportunity finally came last week.
It is a slightly complicated matter to get to Lin Ma Hang and to explain why. But let’s first go through how to get there.
First of all, it is not possible to find parking in the border area and therefore you must take public transportation. At the Sheung Shui minibus stop (outside of Sheung Shui MTR Station), take green top minibus Route 59K. The very last stop you can get off at is the No. 12 Police Post. Without a permit, you may not enter the Lin Ma Hang Village on this minibus. Do note that Minibus 59K comes only every half hour. We could not wait that day and instead we took a taxi to the area instead.
Once at the Police Post, expect to exchange a few words with the policeman guarding the area. Simply tell the policeman that you are here for hiking. He will make sure that you understand you cannot cross the gatepost at the border.
Walk on for about ten, fifteen minutes or so. You will arrive at the gatepost for the border. At that point you may not go forward without a permit. The trail up to Kong Shan (also Lin Ma Hang Village) is on your right. See the sign.
Photos: From Police Post No. 12, walk on to reach the gatepost at the restricted area (Photo Left). On the right side of the road, you will see the sign pointing to Kong Shan (Photo Right).
This section of the path is a circuitous route to the Lin Ma Hang Village. Lin Ma Hang Village once belonged to the frontier closed areas of Sha Tau Kok. The government has released its restricted area status in 2012. However, the paved motorway that leads one into Lin Ma Hang Village remains in the frontier closed area. Therefore to get into Lin Ma Hang Village, which is the only way to hike Kong Shan, will be this circuitous, mountainous path.
Photos: The circuitous path from the border gatepost to Lin Ma Hang Village (Photo Left). This part requires a hop onto the metal rail to cross a stream, be careful but it is doable (Photo right).
This path is relatively simple. Do follow both your hiking app and the hiking ribbons. There is one section that requires roping, and another section that requires a little hop to get past a stream. If you remain watchful, it presents little danger.
We reached Lin Ma Hang Village in a little more than half hour. There is a public toilet in the village. As soon as arriving at the village, look to your left to see a little green village home. The stairs next to this green village home is the way up the MacIntosh Cathedral of Kong Shan and also the way to the Lead Mine of Lin Ma Hang.
Photo: the stairs next to this green village home is the way up Kong Shan.
You will then climb 917 steps to reach the first interest point in this trail. The MacIntosh Cathedral of Kong Shan is one of the 7 such police posts established in the 1950s by then police chief Duncan William MacIntosh to stamp out illegal border crossing. I will discuss more on the MacIntosh Cathedrals in a separate entry.
Photos: 917 steps up to see the Kong Shan MacIntosh Cathedral (Photo Left). Photo right shows the view on the way up.
Photo: The Kong Shan MacIntosh Cathedral.
This spot requires just five minutes to take photographs, as it is fenced and you cannot go in. Then head onward to the path, and within a minute you will see this sign on your left. This is the way to the lead mine pits of Lin Ma Hang.
Photos: Going forward from the MacIntosh Cathedral, this pathway will show you the sign of the left (a warning sign) to the Lead Mine of Lin Ma Hang.
You will come across the No. 6 Pit (more below) in 10 to 15 minutes.
Lin Ma Hang, as a village, has existed since the lifting of the Imperial Edict for Coastal Evacuation in the 8th year of Kangxi Reign (1668), for a few hundred years. Most of the villagers are of the Ip lineage, but there are also other surnames in the village. The area acquired the name “Lin Ma” because that is the native name for a type of citrus (Melodinus suaveolens) that once grew abundantly there.
The Hong Kong government closed the border with China since 1949. Until 2012, all of Lin Ma Hang Village belonged to the frontier closed area. This status has the unintended consequence of protecting the wildlife and heritage there. For the environment and the heritage have remained untouched for decades.
On the other hand, the Lead Mine of Lin Ma Hang was a booming industry before WWII. The residents of Hakka origin discovered this hill full of mineral treasure. The mines were in operation since the late 19th century. The first miners were Portugese. In 1915, Chinese miners discovered larger deposits in the area, thus ushering in the heyday of the lead mine industry in the early 20th century. Many mining companies obtained the rights to mine there. In 1938, the Hong Kong Mining Company hired 500 miners there, the trend continued to rise. In 1939, miners numbered as many as 2,000.
The main mineral mined there was lead, with also zinc, copper, silver and gold deposits as well. Because of these mining pits, this general mountainous area is also called Kong Shan, meaning “mineral mountain.”
A number of factors in WWII contributed to the eventual decline of the Lead Mine of Lin Ma Hang. In view of defence needs, the Hong Kong government called into service the two heavy mining equipment at the Lin Ma Hang Lead Mine. This has resulted in cessation of mining activities.
During the Japanese Occupation years, the Japanese took over this area and forced the villagers to work the mines. The mined materials were shipped back to Japan to make ammunition for the ongoing war. Resented villagers then joined forces with the Hong Kong Independent Battalion of the Dongjiang Column, an anti-Japanese guerilla force, to resist the Japanese. They attempted numerous times to destroy the production facilities at the mine. There were accounts of a huge fire at Kong Shan that flamed for a continuous 7 days and 8 nights. This effort did result in the cessation of mining at the Lin Ma Hang Lead Mine.
After the war, attempts to revive the mining industry at Lin Ma Hang did not succeed. There were a few reasons besides the destroyed facilities. Maps were also lost, causing low yield from the production. Furthermore, the Hong Kong government then included the area as frontier closed area at the border to stamp out smuggling activities. Along with labour strikes, typhoons and a drop in lead prices, the lead mining industry struggled. In June 1958, the Lead Mine of Lin Ma Hang officially closed its doors. The Hong Kong government finally revoked the mining license in 1962. Since then, the lead mine has remained in ruins.
There is currently no mining license in all of Hong Kong. The mining industry is a thing of the past.
The main pit of Lin Ma Hang’s lead mine is called “the No. 6 pit.” The locals also like to call it the “No. 6 Living Room.” Before the government built rails around the smaller pits inside, there had been fatal accidents here. By now, however, with the rail the No. 6 pit is a safe place to visit.
Facing the pit entrance, on the left of No. 6 Pit there is a small mining tunnel. I think the flash light on anyone’s phone will suffice in terms of lighting the way. But I did bring a proper flashlight for safety’s sake. It takes just one minute to walk through this tunnel, but it was a very cool one-minute walk.
There are also Mining Pits No. 3 and No.5 for the more daring explorers. We have not visited those this time. My sources warned that, to reach these caves, it requires climbing on all fours. There is significant danger involved in exploring those caves. Do be careful. Better yet, find a guide who can lead you.
When we exited the tunnel, we came upon the next leg of the journey, and that is to hike back to civilization via Shan Tsui Tsuen Village.
We chose to head eastward to exit at the Shan Tsui Tsuen Village. I went with two young hikers and they were very experienced in directing the way. However, this path is certainly not for inexperienced hikers. Certainly do not go alone even for experienced hikers. Although there are ribbons and even signs all along the way, the pathways are not clear. There are many confusing turns and I am simply not able to properly document the way here.
Given that I do not advise inexperienced hikers to take this way, my suggested route to go back is to turn to the same route from the mining pits to reach Lin Ma Hang Village and the circuitous path that you took to reach the village from No. 12 Police Post.
On the other hand, for experienced hikers, this hike from the mining pits to Shan Tsui Tsuen Village is doable. In fact, many people will also hike up the almost-500-metre-high Robin’s Nest on the way for nice views. We did not do so, but even then our hike back to Shan Tsui Road took us some 3.5 hours. I also do not recommend this path because it is only good enough for exercise. In terms of views, there are few to offer on this route. Do note that even for experienced hikers this path will require navigation by a hiking app. Getting lost in this mountainous path is not fun.
Some views of the way between the No.6 Mining Pit and the Shan Tsui Tsuen Village for exit.
The McIntosh Cathedral of Pak Kung Au is also on the way to Shan Tsui Tsuen Village. However, we missed the entrance. I will save that trip for another occasion.
Very close to the exit at Shan Tsui Road lies a WWII ruins. This looks like a pillbox but it was built by the Japanese. There are a number of such ruins in Shan Tsui Tsuen Village, but again, I will save the exploration for another time.
Turn right on Shan Tsui Road (the section on the left is again a restricted area). Head out to the main roads and you will find the minibus stop for Route 55K. It will take you back to the Sheung Shui Station.
To get to No. 12 Police Post, take green top minibus Route 59K at the Sheung Shui minibus terminus. You may also take the green taxi at the taxi stand underneath Landmark North.
To return from Shan Tsui Tsuen Village, take green top minibus Route 55K to the Sheung Shui Station (final stop). 55K, unlike the 59K, runs frequently throughout the day.
As discussed above, the way between Lin Ma Hang and Shan Tsui Tsuen Village is somewhat complicated. Please be sure to go with someone and also to search for the route info on a hiking app. Also be exceptionally watchful for the signs along the way.
There are also Mining Pits No. 3 and No.5 for the more daring explorers. We have not visited those this time. My sources warned that, to reach these caves, it requires climbing on all fours. There is significant danger involved in exploring those caves. Do be careful. Better yet, find a guide who can lead you.
Lau Lee Lam, A Guide to Hong Kong’s Ruins (Chin) (2013) at 127-131.
The Wikipedia on Lin Ma Hang (Chin).
Ngan Ming Fai, An Exploration of the Lin Ma Hang Mining Pit, Rugged Mountainous Paths Leads to Secluded Border Village (Chin), HK01.com, December 22, 2018.
Hong Kong Geology: A 400-million year journey, Minerals and Mining in Hong Kong, Civil Engineering and Development Department.
Kai Shan is a small hill in Yuen Long with a 360 view of the cities and hilly terrain of both Hong Kong and China. At a height of 120 metres, the walk is suitable for beginners. The temperature has been rising in this late …
I guess people in Asia tend to think that those who speak fair English are from Singapore. Despite my initial introduction, Mr. T mistook me for a Singaporean a few times in our conversation. Although I did not insist on this point, I said that …
Bright and early at 8am I was ready for the day. I would be meeting Mr. T, an ARVN veteran of Vietnam War that will be leading me on a one-day tour at the DMZ (the Demilitarized Zone).
The trip to the DMZ was the main reason why I visited Hue. While I do love Vietnam for its people, food, culture and history, the American War (as the Vietnamese call it) has always been my primary interest as I travel in Vietnam. And Mr. T was the right guide that will lead me into one of the most hotly contested war zones during the American war. He was approaching retirement, and I could not wait to meet him.
The First Stop Along the Way to the DMZ: the Long Hung Catholic Church on the Highway of Horror
Mr. T impressed me with his gentle manners, composure, his commitment to Vietnamese history and very good English.
Mr. T is an ARVN veteran of the Vietnam War. ARVN stands for the Army of the Republic of Vietnam. It refers to the army of South Vietnam. He grew up in the 1950s in Hue. Then he moved to Danang in 1968 (likely after the Tet Offensive) and finished high school there. In 1972, with the imminent departure of the American forces, “everybody had to join the army,” Mr. T told me. And so he did too.
There was a mandatory draft in South Vietnam for all male members of the population. The Vietnamese women could join the army on a voluntary basis. Mr. T received 1.5 years of training in Saigon. Then he served in the Danang airbase. He did not have to fight in battles. When on March 29, 1975 the North Vietnamese took over Danang, all ARVN soldiers had to go through reeducation. They were kept at a camp at the border with Laos. Mr. T went spent 2.5 years there. The days were hard in the reeducation camps. They rose early in the morning to farm, and then learned propaganda.
This prison experience was significant. When North Vietnam claimed victory and power over all of Vietnam in 1975, some western countries promised to give VISAs to those who went through at least three years of reeducation camp as a result of the American War. Because he only spent 2.5 years in prison, Mr. T could not benefit from this offer. Then other people told him that he should enter tourism because of his good English and the veteran background. It was certainly the right decision.
A very nice private car came to pick me up. Mr. T greeted me cheerfully. He started telling the story of the American War in Hue as soon as we began our journey.
Photo: The Signage On-site at the Long Hung Catholic Church.
Quang Tri lies 57km northwest of Hue and 40km from the DMZ. After the 1954 Geneva Accords, Vietnam was divided into North Vietnam and South Vietnam. This division resulted in Quang Tri being in South Vietnam. Further northwest, Dong Ha became the northernmost town of South Vietnam, closest to the 17th parallel, which is the border between North and South Vietnam.
In March 1972, the North Vietnamese army, known as PAVN (People’s Army of Vietnam), launched the Easter Offensive against the South. In this offensive the PAVN attacked and captured both Dong Ha and Quang Tri. The PAVN captured Dong Ha in late April, 1972. Quang Tri came under PAVN control by May 2, 1972.
It was believed that the North Vietnamese launched the Easter Offensive intending to bolster its negotiation position before the final peace talks with the United States. At that point in history, the United States seemed to be somewhat “improving relationships” with the communist powers of the world. The foreign policy of détente was in place, but there was an expected summit with the Soviet Union by Richard Nixon. Then the successor to Lyndon B. Johnson, Richard Nixon was going to visit China as well. North Vietnam felt the restrained attitude from both China and Soviet Union. Perhaps rightly so, it believed that its interest would be overshadowed by the great power diplomacy at play at the time (Hall at 75-76).
The ARVN would only recapture Quang Tri on September 19, 1972, and only with the exceptional and final aid from the U.S. military. In Operation Linebacker, the United States responded to the Easter Offensive with an air strike campaign. It was the biggest escalation of the war since 1965. Both sides suffered significant casualties as a result of the Easter Offensive and Operation Linebacker that followed.
“Quang Tri was left, as one journalist described, ‘a lake of shattered masonry.’” (Hall at 76). The Quang Tri Citadel, which was built in 1824, was run to the ground.
The Easter Offensive would be the last battle between North and South Vietnam that directly involved the U.S. military. On April 30, 1975, the U.S. Ambassador was the last one to leave Vietnam, by then fully under communist rule.
The first stop that we made on our trip to the DMZ was the Highway of Horror.
Highway 1, officially National Route 1A, runs through the major cities of Vietnam from the Huu Nghi Quan Border Gate near the China-Vietnam border. It extends all the way to the very southern tip of Ca Mau Province. The French colonists constructed this highway in the early 20th century.
During the Easter Offensive of 1972, the PAVN launched serious shelling at Quang Tri in order to gain control of the city. The section of Highway 1 between Quang Tri and Hue became the only escape route for the 20,000 residents of Quang Tri. Almost the entire population attempted to flee the city.
Between the few days in late April and early May, both the civilians and the ARVN military jammed this section of Highway 1, both on-foot and in vehicles, and bumper-to-bumper. The majority of the vehicles were ARVN fleets, consisting of “flatbeds, takers, small trucks, jeeps and ambulances.” When this convoy had gone 6 miles south, the PAVN attacked. Because the ARVN 3rd Division failed to organize flank security, the attack caused serious casualties to both civilians and the ARVN military. I further quote the Wikipedia:
Personal effects, individual equipment and bodies were piled in the vehicles and lay strewn alongside, and to the east, where individuals had attempted to flee to safety.
The Catholic Long Hung Church was built in 1955. Standing in ruins, it is the living testament to the horrifying few days of killing on Highway 1. People were trapped on this road and did not have any other escape routes or cover.
The countless bullet holes on the wall is a chilling display of how brutal the attack was.
And as such, Highway 1 became known as the Highway of Horror.
Mitchell K. Hall, The Vietnam War (2018).
The Wikipedia on the 1954 Geneva Conference.
The Wikipedia on National Route 1A.
The Wikipedia on Quang Tri.
The Wikipedia on Dong Ha.
The Wikipedia on the Shelling of Highway 1.
Sai Lau Kong lies on the northeastern coast of Hong Kong. At that location, one has perhaps one of the best views of Double Haven. About Sai Lau Kong Sai Lau Kong was once a thriving fishing village in the northeastern coast of the New …