Vignettes of the World
My friend and I love excursions in the islands of Hong Kong. We have been to the Kwun Yam Wan Beach and the Mini-Great Wall Trail in southeastern Cheung Chau. This time we opted for open views in north Cheung Chau. Despite the myriad choices …
I suffered from a pretty significant injury at the hike at Kai Kung Leng. I walked this trail in order to re-train my knees. The first part of this trail consist of the main part of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir Mountain Bike Trail. I then went on MacLehose Trail Section 10 to reach Tin Fu Tsai.
From the San Hui Market in Tuen Mun, I took green top minibus Route 43 to the So Kwun Wat Tsuen Village. I spent twenty minutes within the village to reach the entrance to the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir area. Ten minutes after, I reached the entrance to the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir Mountain Bike Trail.
The Tai Lam Chung Reservoir is also known as Reservoir Islands. The making of the reservoir resulted in exceptional views of many islands. However, this mountain bike trail does not offer this view of Reservoir Islands, as the trail lies on the ground level. The path lies along the meandering shore of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir. If you would like to see island views, you should visit the Reservoir Islands View Point, which is also accessible from So Kwun Wat.
Photos: views of the trail on the way.
Even on the ground, however, the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir is quite beautiful. There are many points to reach the shore for views along this trail, and I do encourage you to take your time for these views.
Photos: views of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir at the shore.
According to Google Map, I should have reached Tin Fu Tsai on this path in 2 hours and 15 minutes. It took me 3.hours 15 minutes because I took my time at a few shore stops.
Photo: at this point, I took the path on the right.
At the last exit to the shore on this trail, I came upon a pleasant surprise. I saw a large field of reeds growing as tall as a human being across the shore. Also in this last section, you will be walking through a significant section of bamboo groves. The way to the reeds is at the end of the bamboo.
Photos above: the views of human-height reeds at the end of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir Bike Trail.
At the end of the trail, you will reach a large rest area. The Kat Hing Bridge lies on the eastern end.
During the 1920s, before Castle Peak Road was constructed, this area of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir was where people traveled between Yuen Long and Tsuen Wan. The Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail is also part of the roadway. The safe crossing of Tsat To Ho, which was named to denote the seven crossing points for the several streams that converge at this location, required a footbridge. So the residents collected funds to build this bridge. The very first Kat Hing Bridge completed in 1868. The current bridge that we see now was a reconstruction in the 1950s, when the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir was built.
At the large rest area, you will see these signs:
I followed the signs to get on MacLehose Trail Section 10 to reach Tin Fu Tsai in a little more than half hour. However, because there is no exit at Tin Fu Tsai (see following), perhaps this is rather the point to exit, and I did via the sweet gum woods to Tai Tong Road Bus Stop. Follow this sign to the Tai Tong Road Bus Stop.
When I arrived at Tin Fu Tsai, a mountain biker struck up a conversation. He told me there is no exit at Tin Fu Tsai. I then realized that I have made a grave mistake in reading the map. What seemed to be roads to civilization at Tin Fu Tsai on Google Map was actually a tunnel, below the mountains.
The biker told me I would have to walk a lot more in order to reach the next exit in Tsuen Kam Au. That did not sound too appealing to me. He then suggested that the easiest way was to turn back and exit at Tai Tong via the sweet gum woods.
Another hiker told me that there was a way to Sham Tseng from that point as well, but because it was already 4pm, it had been raining for two hours, and it was getting dark and very cold, I chose to walk back to the large rest area and to exit via the sweet gum woods of Tai Tong. This was simply because I was much more familiar with that area. Also, many, many visitors would still be there because it was peak season for viewing red leaves.
Long story short, I made it back on the Tai Tong bus to Yuen Long at 6pm. It was total of full six hours from the time I started at So Kwun Wat Tsuen Village.
Therefore, I should have ended the walk at the large rest area outside of the end of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir Mountain Bike Trail, and either walk the same way back to So Kwun Wat, or to head up the sweet gum woods area to exit at Tai Tong. It did take about an hour and a half to take the sweet gum woods trail back to the bus stop at Tai Tong.
The part of MacLehose Trail Section 10 (on gentle incline) to Tin Fu Tsai was a good walk, however, for the mere sake of clocking in more training and exercise.
I chose to walk this trail because it was for mountain biking. That means there would not be much climbing and I could train my knees with a long-distanced walk without placing too much strain. But there were many bikers on this trail so watch out when you hear from biking by.
From Tuen Mun’s San Hui Market, take green top minibus 43 to So Kwun Wat Tsuen Village. The entrance to the trail lies on your left.
By private car, you would be parking here (perhaps illegally).
On this path, you will walk twenty minutes to these signs. Follow the sign for Wong Nai Tun Reservoir. The same way will also eventually lead you to the Reservoir Islands Viewpoint.
Still ten minutes after a gentle incline, you will reach the entrance to the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir Mountain Bike Trail at these signs. Take these steps down to begin the trail.
The historical descriptiosn on-site.
Kat O was part of the Hong Kong Government’s celebration of the 10th Anniversary of the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark’s inclusion into the Global Geopark Network. The celebration comes with special arrangements for ferry transport, storytelling by the natives of the islands, interesting workshops, …
In celebration of the 10th Anniversary of the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark’s inclusion into the Global Geopark Network, the Hong Kong Government has organized a number of activities in various interesting Geopark locations. The activity period comes with special arrangements for ferry transport, storytelling …
Located within the Lam Tsuen Country Park, Kai Kung Leng prides the highest peak in northwest New Territories after Tai Mo Shan. With its highest peak at 585 meters, the mountain range provides an exceptional opportunity to view the landscape of northern and northwestern New Territories. Embrace wide-open views throughout this hike.
Kai Kung Leng, meaning “the rooster mountain range” in Chinese, had another name as Kwai Kok Shan in the ancient records on Hong Kong. “Kwai” refers to the laurel trees that grew abundantly in this mountain range. “Kok,” meaning angles, refers to the two angular mountain tops. In the ancient books, Kwai Kok Shan was the name for the whole mountain range. The taller eastern summit was Tai Lo Tin, and the western lower peak was Kai Kung Shan; together they were known as Kwai Kok Shan.
Tai Lo Tin, on the other hand, is a reference in Taoism. In the Taoist worldview, Tai Lo Tin is a state of being that is fully enveloped by enlightenment. It lies on the outer, most sublime of heavens and immortality.
According to Dit Wah Wong’s wonderful chronicle on this mountain range, descriptions of Kwai Kok Shan appeared mostly in the official records of the Qing Dynasty. This is in contrast with some of the better-known mountain ranges in Hong Kong, such as Lantau, Pui To, or Ma On Shan, all of which appeared in the ancient scrolls of Tang, Song and Ming Dynasties. While the descriptions were brief, entries on Kwai Kok Shan did appear in the gazetteers and records of the Kangxi, Jiaqing, Daoguang, Guangxu Reigns of Qing Dynasty.
The Tang’s of Kam Tin believe that this mountain range is the origin of the clan’s good feng shui, the ancestral dragon that blesses the clan. The good fortunes flow through the rolling ranges to benefit the Tang villages in the low plains.
By now, the name Kwai Kok Shan is no longer in use. However, generally people still refer to Kai Kung Shan and Lo Tin Teng (the peak of Lo Tin) within the Kai Kung Leng ranges.
We ascended right away when we reached the entrance of the trail. Even at mid-range we saw all of Kam Tin and Yuen Long in the southwest. It felt like we could reach out and touch those human settlements on our fingertips.
This scenery keeps me grounded in a realistic perspective on Hong Kong. Hong Kong is a well-developed city, heavily populated even in the rural areas, with never-ending human footprints on its terrain. But in the mountains we see the mountain ranges rolling to eternity, a view so grand that the human footprints are dwarfed, perhaps into a humility that reflects human beings’ true position in the created order.
There are two signposts on this trail. The first milestone that you come across indicates that you are at Kai Kung Shan. It took us 1 hour and 15 minutes to reach the first sign post. The pathway is very clear, follow through with the visible tracks.
Photo: you will reach the first signpost in 1 hour 15 minutes or less.
Another 1.5 hours later, we reached the second signpost, and this should properly be Tai Lo Tin, the eastern peak of Kai Kung Leng. The highest tip, Lo Tin Teng, is just about ten minutes of more climbing, after passing Tai Lo Tin.
Photos: When you see a significant outcrop of rocks, it indicates that you are close to Tai Lo Tin. We took a break at the rocks and had our sandwiches. Middle photo: at the second signpost, indicating that you are at Tai Lo Tin. Photo on right: this is the view of Lo Tin Teng, at 585 meters in height. It is the highest peak within this hike and only about ten minutes from the second signpost.
Photos: a panorama view near the highest point of Kai Kung Leng.
After this highest point at 585 meters, you will begin the descent. You will come across a beautiful hillside with the photogenic Miscanthus field. The Miscanthus photos have been Hong Kong people’s favorite in recent years.
After that point, you will come across views of the Fanling and Sheung Shui areas, with the northern border (the Shenzhen River) in clear view.
I would say this hike at Kai Kung Leng tops one of the toughest hikes I have done so far. Quite a number of experienced hikers have ranked it 4 stars out of 5.
The mountain range enables exceptional views because there is no vegetation throughout the hike. The small trees that we saw here and there would not have provided the shades for cooling in case someone comes down with a heat stroke. Therefore, I advise against taking this trail during summertime.
We did this trail in late November and I would say even at this season we each needed more than 1.5 litres of water. I would play safe and prepare at least 2 litres for each person.
The hike will take at least half a day, and experienced hikers have said they needed 4.5 hours. It took us 6 long hours because the descent is very difficult (I was injured, see below). I think it is prudent to allow for at least 5 hours for this hike.
This mountain has attracted the mountain motorcycling enthusiasts probably due to its unobstructed ranges. As a result, strictly speaking, the paths are not hiking trails. They are rather the tire tracks from mountain motorcycling, and you can probably tell from the photographs. I would say that, especially on descent, the tracks are not well-trodden. There was no paved stairs down.
We took 6 hours because I twisted both of my knees when I was coming down the mountain. Large sections of the paths are smooth-surfaced and they are very steep. We descended sideways for most of the paths down. At one point I had to slide down on my bum for 20 meters or so because my sprained knee would not hold up to a proper walk down.
Do not go alone, and do not go during rainy days. The descent would be very dangerous on rainy days. Do bring one or two hiking poles with you. Gloves would be useful as well.
Going from the way of Fung Kat Heung, there is only one path until you descend the mountains. Because I was injured, I could not take a photo of the one crossroads where you could choose to exit on Fan Kam Road by the Lotus Cafe or via the Tsiu Keng Village. The good news is, Google Map worked throughout this hike as we all had regular reception on our cell phones. Watch out for this crossroads, the path on the left leads you to Tsiu Keng Village, where you can take a green top minibus back to Fan Kam Road and Sheung Shui town. The path on your right will lead you to the Lotus Café on Fan Kam Road.
I urge hikers to only begin the hike at Fung Kat Heung (rather than from the Tsiu Keng Village). There are some sections near the Fung Kat Heung ranges that would have been too steep and slippery for descent if approached from the Tsiu Keng entrance.
At Yuen Long Station Exit G1, head down to the transportation interchange to find green top minibus Route 603 to Fung Kat Heung. The driver will either drop you off at the mini bus stop at Fung Kat Heung or maybe even right at the entrance to Kai Kung Leng’s trail. See below for this sign pointing the way to Kai Kung Leng, along Fung Kat Heung Road.
Photos: Left shows minibus 603 to drop off at Fung Kat Heung. Right: This is the set of stairs up Kai Kung Leng, on Fung Kat Heung Road, note the red paint saying Kai Kung Leng in Chinese on the lightpole.
To leave, from Tsiu King Village, green top minibus Route 57K runs between the village and Sheung Shui Station.
On Fan Kam Road, bus Route 77k runs between Sheung Shui and Kam Sheung Road MTR stations. There is also a red top minibus that runs between Sheung Shui and Yuen Long on that road.
Dit Wah Wong, A Chronicle of Hong Kong’s Mountain Ranges, (2017, Chin).
After visiting the Chuen Lung Family Walk, I had about ten photos left on my film. I was eager to develop the film soon, so I looked for easy heritage sites in Tsuen Wan for picture-taking. Since the Jockey Club Tak Wah Park is in …
The Tung Shan Temple is an easily accessible site in San Tin, Yuen Long. It lies right at the village entrance, next to the restaurants of San Tin. I have seen signs pointing to the temple and finally had the opportunity to pay a visit. …
When visiting Hong Kong’s heritage sites, I find most of them to be very beautiful in their restored state. This visit at Yam Wah Lo, also known as Pun Uk, brought forth a different kind of appreciation. The unrestored historic Hakka structure, very much in ruins, stands in humility, strength and an aged authenticity. To say the least, it is no less beautiful, or perhaps in many ways even more so, than the restored monuments.
Photo: the first impression of Yam Wah Lo, Pun Uk
As I found the entrance to Yam Wah Lo, I saw the public notice posted on the left side of the gateway. The gist of the notice is that an application has been made for the conservation of the Pun Uk to the Planning Department. People are welcome to submit their comments to the same. Very soon, this aged authenticity that I saw on this day will become a thing of the past as well.
However, I am all for the restoration of the building. It will reinforce the structure, making it safe. Also, when the restoration finishes, visitors will be able to admire the inner halls and courtyards, as with all other historic buildings in Hong Kong. On this visit, I stopped at the entrance. All interiors were off-bound to visitors.
Pun Uk became a Grade 1 Historic Building in 2010.
There will be a day that a renewed glory adorns its mantle.
In 1932, Kwan-min Pun, a merchant of Hakka origin, built the Yam Wah Lo to commemorate his father Yam-wah Pun. The building was therefore named after his father. As a merchant, Kwan-min Pun has donated funds for both the 1911 Revolution and the Pok Oi Hospital. Because Kwan-min Pun was a respectable member of the community, his mansion was once host to history-making, exceptional guests.
He was friends with Chinese Communist Party leader Ye Jianying. When would-be Premier Zhou Enlai and Ye Jianying came to Hong Kong in 1938, they stayed at the Pun Uk. Furthermore, famous writer Guo Moruo has also lived here in 1939. Few of Hong Kong’s historic monuments can rival this history.
A site that also had ties with exceptional leaders of China is the Kat Hing Wai Village. The last emperors of the Song Dynasty found refuge there. The royal aunt of the last emperor of Song Dynasty married into this village.
The Faculty of Architecture of the University of Hong Kong has done a great introduction on the architectural features of Pun Uk. Since I only managed to see the outside of the mansion, I will keep this introduction brief.
Kwan-min Pun hired four craftsmen from hometown Meizhou to construct the Pun Uk. The house closely resembled the design of the Yam-wah Lo there. It was his ancestral home in China. The team sourced building materials from Foshan, Guangzhou and Shantou. It took two years before construction completed.
The layout of Pun Uk follows the traditional “two-hall, two-row” format, which is typical for the mansion style of Hakka dwellings. As the Faculty of Architecture’s website explains, the construction of Hakka architecture adheres to fengshui principles. It “emphasizes enclosure, centrality and symmetry.” This means that the halls, referring to the main halls lying on the central axis of the mansion, are strictly aligned in their layouts.
In Pun Uk, the entrance hall comes first, with the ancestral hall (with a worship altar) following in its main axis. On the other hand, the “two-row” refers to the auxiliary structures that lie in symmetry as they extend from the main axis. The mansion prides a total of 16 rooms, 6 main chambers and 2 courtyards.
Photos: on the left and right of the front door, identical chambers in perfect symmetry.
Originally, there was a pond in half-moon shape in front of the mansion. This echoes the woods, also in half-moon shape, behind the mansion. When I visited, I did not notice it because people have laid down large and unstable wooden boards to allow access to the building’s entrance.
The beams on the sides of the front porch show beautiful carvings. They depict scenes and items of auspiciousness in Chinese culture. Especially worthy of note are the lions.
Photo: the glazed clay lions on the left beam remains. The details and the colors continue to breathe life into them.
There were originally 8 sculpted or glazed clay lions on the side beans at the front gate. Some were gold-plated. On this visit, I only saw the glazed clay lions on the left and right beams. At one point, people called Pun Uk “the Lion House” for this reason.
Photo: the side beams at the front door should have shown four gold-plated lions. But they are now gone.
I needed only about half an hour there, but the learning was priceless. Suffice to say, that even a cursory appreciation of the Pun Uk’s exterior would be worthwhile of a trip to Yuen Long. In fact, the Qing Dynasty Street of Yuen Long’s Old Market is just one bus stop away. I recommend doing both heritage visits in one go.
Many of the buses that run the Yuen Long area have a stop at the Pok Oi Hospital. The Yam Wah Lo is literally thirty seconds away from the bus stop. At the stop, look across you and you will see the entrance ahead. Cross the two roads, go straight. In this photo, the entrance is right by the two cars.
Photos: the photo on the left shows the Pok Oi Hospital Bus stop. The photo in the middle shows the entrance to Yam Wah Lo Pun Uk, it is right next to the two cars in this picture.
The photo on the right is a close-up of the entrance with the public notice on the left.
The University of Hong Kong, the Faculty of Architecture, Hands-On Heritage: Shared Conservation of a Historic Hakka Mansion.
Antiquities and Monuments Office, Assessment of 1,444 Historic Buildings.
The Wikipedia on Pun Uk (Chin).
The Wikipedia on Weilongwu (Chin).
The Chuen Lung Family Walk is the shortest family walk in Hong Kong at 0.5 kilometer. I was curious so I decided to pay a visit. The Chuen Lung Family Walk is a loop. I walked from the Chuen Lung Village minibus stop so the …
