Vignettes of the World
We took a quick lunch at the Siab Bazaar and then headed toward the Shah-I-Zinda. On our way, we passed by the Hazrati Hizr Mosque. The Hazrati Hizr Mosque The Hazrati Hizr Mosque was built in 1823. Although as compared to the myriad other ancient …
We woke up to a rainy morning in Samarkand. I had my Uzbek breakfast early in the morning and watched the rain as I ate. The weather was cool, perhaps in the low 20’s. We were going to see the Sha-I-Zinda that day, as the …
In our first night at the Bahodir B&B, we were quite disturbed by the group singing that went well into the depths of the night. The songs sounded like Christian songs to me, and I thought there were some evangelicals also staying at the hotel.
The next evening, I met a few members of that group. I learned that they were from the Czech Republic.
I asked them whether they were singing Christians songs, thinking that perhaps they were here to proselytize Christianity. They were actually singing songs that celebrate the country. Like folk songs. He explained to me that the celebration of Czech culture could not be done without some reference to Catholicism. Catholicism is so pervasive in his country’s cultural fabric that the interpretation of the world could not be done without Catholicism as the starting point.
They caught my attention as they were yelling “Slava Ukrani” when they passed by the courtyard. So naturally, I asked about Ukraine. We then had a pretty long chat about the ongoing affairs of the world.
My conversant began with WWI, how the former Czechoslovakia was formed from the Austrian Czech and the Hungarian Slovak. Although Czechoslovakia was not part of the Soviet Union (and clearly I had the history wrong—I thought Czechoslovakia was part of the Soviet Union), the two countries were close allies. The Czechs chose the way of communism after WWII and Czechoslovakia was a true communist country.
He emphasized that the year 1968 was a critical event to remember in order to understand the current situation with the Czech people’s worldviews and political affinities. The Soviet Union invaded Czechoslovakia in that year. With that invasion came a very divided country, split into the pro- and anti-Soviet camps. The differences between the two camps have survived the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991. Unlike Yugoslavia, Czechoslovakia split peacefully into Czech Republic and Slovak Republic in 1993. And my conversant was thankful for that development.
“A silent majority in the Czech Republic supports Ukraine.” When Russia invaded Ukraine last year, the rancor between the two camps re-surfaced afresh and there was a clear split of opinion in the country. He told me that the disagreement amongst the people have destroyed families and friendships. Discussions about the War of Ukraine could not go on in any civilized manner.
I observed that there seems to be a world trend in the growing intolerance for different political views. Despite the celebration of diversity and differences that was regarded as the golden rule in my university days some twenty years ago, the world no longer practices the agreement to disagree. There is not even a pretense of tolerance; every opportunity for rational discussion of worldviews is turned into spats. This is clearly the case in Europe, America, Asia, and certainly Hong Kong.
I wondered if this development indicates the beginning of the end of western democratic values, as the golden rule that lies at the foundation of civic discussions is at stake.
It was in Uzbekistan that I learned about the views toward Ukraine in current Czech Republic. And this is an example of one of my most looked-forward to occurrences when I travel. I get to meet interesting people who bring me perspectives that I would never come across if I stayed home.
I bided farewell to the Czech conversant. We were at the hollows of the night.
Hiking on a late autumn day in Hong Kong is exceedingly pleasant, and we had such a day in Lamma Island. It would be my first walk from Sok Kwu Wan to Yung Shue Wan, and it took less than two hours. We saw wonderful …
It’s finally open for public visits! The High Street Haunted House is a beautiful colonial building standing on No. 2 High Street at the corner of High Street and Eastern Street. The restored façade of the former hospital rises beautifully above the food and dining …
In my last excursion to Sharp Island, I went around 1:30 pm and did not manage to see the Kiu Tau Islet at low tide. I crossed half of the tombolo and had to return. On this sunny autumn afternoon, we could not go on a Kau Sai Chau hike as planned because I did not allow enough time. So I quickly headed on over to the ferry carriers and sorted out an alternative route for the afternoon.
We found Wah Kee, which offered a look at the caves of Sharp Island for $50.
The ferry carrier took us to the southern tip of Sharp Island. We would be seeing the Elephant’s Nose and Dragon’s Eyes Caves, and some interesting rocks.
These are the caves that we saw on the ferry.
The Kissing Rock shows what seems to be a man kissing a coy woman.
After touring the caves, the ferry dropped us off at Sharp Island. You may choose to stop there, or you could go on to the journey back to the Sai Kung Pier. We were delighted when we headed on to the island, for the tombolo shows its full contours and there is a wide stretch of rocky sand to walk to the Kiu Tau Islet.
Tourist information always advise visitors to check the tidal reports of the Hong Kong Observatory for the times of low tides. But the charts are actually very difficult to read and in fact it does not pinpoint the tidal movements at Sharp Island.
The ferry helmsman told me the rule of thumb for low tides at Sharp Island. He said that you should go on the 1st or 15th of each month on the lunar calendar. That is when the tides recede between 2pm to 4pm, which would make the perfect afternoon walk on the tombolo.
For other days of the lunar month, the low tides might come so late in the afternoon that it gets dark when you are about done with the walk, especially during the winter. There is also a schedule for last ferry departures at Sharp Island in the late afternoon.
First of all, this is the contrast between the high tide and the low tide at the tombolo.
Photo: At high tide, part of the tombolo is submerged in the water.
Photos: At low tide, all of the rocky path is exposed on the tombolo.
There are times when the water covering the stones is shallow and therefore you can remove your socks to get through the somewhat submerged tombolo. But I find it dangerous because you can easily slip and fall when you walk on those rocks. In my previous visit, I went through half of the tombolo and decided to turn back.
The walk and the short exploration of the Islet, plus an extended rocky stretch out in the sea to the west where the lighthouse is, will take about an hour.
Photo: An exploration of the rocky stretch after reaching the highest point of the Kiu Tau Islet. The Lighthouse (not accessible by foot) lies on the west.
Amir Timur ruled via the puppet khans in the khanate kingdoms in which he managed to consolidate his power. This was because Amir Timur himself was not a descendant of the Genghis Khan. Without this lineage he could not become the Khan. He became qurkan …
The Registan of Samarkand is the very soul of the ancient city’s heritage. Standing majestic in the heart of Samarkand, the Registan has witnessed the turns of history that shaped the ancient city as well as Uzbekistan. Its historic presence represents Samarkand’s legacy as an …
The plan of the day is to visit the Cape Collinson Battery Search Lights via the Leaping Dragon Path in Siu Sai Wan. We began at the Siu Sai Wan Promenade and hiked up on a gentle incline to reach the Search lights of the Cape Collinson Battery.
The locals call these search light positions of the Cape Collinson Battery “Big Screen TV” for a reason. The search light positions face the southeastern waters of Hong Kong. Inside the structure, you see wide-open views of the ocean through the framed lookout of the ruins. On a sunny day, it really is fantastic there.
The only caveat is, if you go on a sunny weekend afternoon, you will be fighting for the prime photo-taking spot with a whole lot of tourists.
The British had plans to construct this battery as early as 1934. The Cape Collinson Battery had the geographical advantage of overlooking the eastern approaches to Victoria Harbor. The Hong Kong Island was to be reinforced with 3 new six-inch batteries, and Collinson Battery was one of them. Construction began in 1936. The guns that stationed here came from the Stonecutter Island in the west.
During WWII, Cape Collinson Battery belonged to the Eastern Fire Command. The 36th Coast Battery, 8th Coast Regiment Royal Artillery stationed here. On the morning after the Japanese’s first landing on Hong Kong Island, the Japanese Imperial troops advanced quickly in the Tai Tam catchment area. Eventually, the Collinson Battery had to be destroyed, as with the Bokhara Battery (in Cape D’aguilar) and the Chung Hom Kok Battery.
From the Chai Wan Station, take Green Top Minibus Route 47M to Siu Sai Wan and get off at the Island Resort / Siu Sai Wan Promenade stop. Once you enter into the Siu Sai Wan Promenade, pass the public toilets and go straight on to find this sign of the Leaping Dragon Path. Head up the path.
All along the way, follow the blue rail of the path.
There are not too many flights of stairs on this trail, and you will be climbing on gentle inclines. When you see this blue rail on the left, climb up the stairs.
Once you are up the stairs, make a left.
When you reach Cape Collinson Road, you should be making a left. Keep on going, until you look to your left and see the rail with a clear “ladder.” Watch out for this rather inconspicuous ladder because that is where you must descend to the search lights. Climb over and go down the trail from that point.
To return, go on the same way back to the Siu Sai Wan Promenade. There is no public transportation on Cape Collinson Road.
Otherwise you will also be able to hike back to Shek O’s Big Wave Bay via the Pottinger Peak. The entrance to that trail is on Cape Collison Road.
Ko Tim Keung & Jason Wordie, Ruins of War: A Guide to Hong Kong’s Battlefields and Wartime Sites (1996).
There is speed rail in Uzbekistan. We made it to our 7am train to Samarkand. About two hours later, we arrived in Samarkand. From the train station we took a taxi to Bahodir B&B, where we would stay for two nights until we headed out …