Vignettes of the World
At the peak of Tai Shek Mo, of 183 meters in altitude, there are all-around views of New Territories North including that of all of Sheung Shui and much of the southern skyline of Shenzhen. Needless to say, the fish pond views of Ma Tso …
The Boston Restaurant in Wan Chai has been serving its signature dish, Beef Brochette Flambé, since 1966. Today I took a leisurely lunch there and had a delightful steak that came with amazing theatrics. The experience was really quite special. The Story of Boston Restaurant …
Islam Food in Kowloon City has a long-standing presence as one of the few Islam dining establishments in Hong Kong. I finally had a chance to visit it for some of its famous dishes. And I would certainly go back for more.
In most religions of the world there are dietary rules and restrictions for its believers. Even for Protestants the Old Testament does lay out some specific rules, and they perhaps still govern the Jewish people’s diet to this day. Islam is also very strict with the dietary requirements for its followers.
According to the Wikipedia, “The term halal is particularly associated with Islamic dietary laws and especially meat processed and prepared in accordance with those requirements.”
The obvious feature of halal is that pork is forbidden. Pigs are considered unclean under Shariah Law. The next two obvious excluded categories are blood and alcohol.
The strict prohibition of these categories certainly results in very limited choices for the Muslims in Hong Kong. As a predominant Chinese dietary preference here, pork is a major meat category; pig blood is considered a delicacy. Alcohol is also a standard marinate in food. This would naturally present some difficulties for Muslims in Hong Kong. Halal does not allow any “contamination” of unclean foods in the kitchen utensils. Therefore it is not simply a matter of not ordering a pork dish in a restaurant. If the restaurant serves pork at all, then all its utensils would be considered unclean.
In a strict adherence to halal requirements, one must begin with the right way of slaughter. First of all, there is a scripture to recite before the slaughter. Then comes the right way of releasing the blood completely in the animal, as the blood shall not spill over to the meat. The person who slaughters the animals must also be Muslim. This practice continues to this day at Islam Food.
Finally, because Islam prohibits alcohol, Islam Food does not serve any alcoholic beverages. Nor can diners bring alcohol for consumption on-site.
The lack of proper Islam food in Hong Kong has encouraged the first-generation owner of Islam Food to open an eatery that meets Muslim requirements.
Islam Food is a family-owned, family-run business that began in 1950. The Ma family are Muslim for generations. Like many of the long-standing restaurants in Hong Kong, those that started in the 1950s had humble beginnings. Islam Food was simply some kind of a “food stall” somewhere, and in more than one location. There was not even a proper name for it. The food offered was simple noodles, buns and meat-filled type of savory pastries.
In the 1980s, the business moved into a proper dining facility in Kowloon City, and it has since then established a notable presence and reputation in the community.
Perhaps the most popular dish at Islam Food is the pan-fried beef pockets. I had high expectations on this.
Originally, the beef pockets were very big, and the Chinese name for it was “beef box.” It really did come in like a box full of meat. After customers reflected that the “beef box” was too big, they became “pockets” instead. The customers were looking to be able to try different dishes besides the beef pockets too.
I always enjoy food that has “juice splurt,” such as the Shanghainese Xiaolongbao. And the beef pockets did not disappoint. The juice flowed out as the first poke of my chopsticks. I placed my spoon below to catch all that goodness overflowing from the pockets. Beware and not to rush, for the pockets are served red hot from the pan. I thought it was perfect to dip the beef pockets into a little bit of black vinegar. The bite comes in a complex sensation of crispiness, juiciness, and the richness of flavors.
The next dim-sum style dish that I ordered was the beef pot stickers. Again, there was juice splurt in these delightful pockets of goodness.
Finally, I ordered a simple beef shreds in soup vermicelli with fried tofu to complete the meal.
What I did not order on my first try, but a must-order if you are to go, is the curry at Islam Food. The style of the curry there is Pakistani. The first owner of Islam Food began as a chef at the police station canteens. Since there were many Pakistani policemen at the time, he learned the right way of making Pakistani curry from these policemen. The spices are made to the specific order of what this restaurant requires by the supplier. And there are more than 70 spices in the curry at Islam Food. Needless to say, the original Pakistani curry would have been too spicy to Hong Kong people’s liking. Therefore there were efforts to tame down the spiciness to meet this preference. As halal, the selection of meat for the curry are beef, chicken and lamb.
What distinguishes this type of curry from the others is that the curry has bright orange or red color. The curry here does not have any coconut milk, instead there is a heavy use of onions.
The address of Islam Food is G/F, 33-35 Tak Ku Ling Road, Kowloon City.
The Wikipedia on Halal.
Interview with Mrs. Ma of Islam Food, The Golden Plaque, Metro Radio available here.
Perhaps a couple years ago, the government had plans to pull down the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir. The netizens then leaked some photos of it and caused an uproar. The beautiful imitated Roman architecture fascinated the people of Hong Kong. What followed was an …
The Tsung Tsin Mission Hong Kong Kau Yan Church of Sai Ying Pun is just a stone’s throw away from the Chinese Rhenish Church. I was very much drawn to its architecture. I think it is even more beautiful than the Chinese Rhenish Church. The …
Hong Kong is “a dining heaven,” and the people of Hong Kong are natural epicureans. From the very basic to the very upscale, the food scene of Hong Kong is one of abundance. There is a king choice for every edible and non-edible category you can imagine — cuisine, beverages, view, ambiance, thematic, service, pet-friendly, you name it.
I think the Lucky Snack House in Wan Chai is the king choice for the love.
Having seen some news report about its final closure to come next year, I decided to visit Lucky Snack House and have a fast food meal the very old-schooled Hong Kong way. Tucked away in the back streets of Wan Chai, the Lucky Snack House has seen the times that passed and the neighborhood that morphed. This very old-schooled fast food joint opened its doors in 1978. By next year, when it is scheduled to close, it would have earned a proud 45 years of continuous existence in this very location in Wan Chai.
“I have been here since day 1,” the owner sat down for a bit and started telling me the story, “I was 27 years old then, and now I am 71.” The owner naturally takes care of money and so her role in the shop is the cashier. At her age, however, she does have the need to sit down often to rest her leg. “We witnessed the sea change that took place in this neighborhood. You see, the Imperial Cinema used to be right behind us.” Pointing at another direction, she said, “there were those other cinemas over in that direction,” (she hushed), “they showed XX-rated films there.” Her small eyes squinted as she smiled ear to ear reminiscing the past.
“You are 71? I thought you were 50!” Upon hearing my compliment, her eyes disappeared into two long lines and I could feel her heart pouring out joy. She told me that the staff working here are mostly also in retirement age. Except for one or two younger ones, they will all retire when the shop closes. “I thought this one looks like he’s 20!” I was being quite liberal with giving compliments. If this food brought forth love, I could reciprocate by spreading some. The staff there all roared in laughter, “me? In my 20s!!” The owner said, “this pretty lady is here to ‘hand out benefits’!” (I can’t quite translate this into proper English, the approximate meaning is that I was there passing out free compliments).
Including the owner, there were three other staff in the kitchen area. I saw them doing endless chatter when they cooked. They were bustling about for the lunchtime orders that started pouring in when I was having mine. I noticed how there were a few more people in and out of the shop doing things here and there. One picked up my plate. The other handled the takeout boxes and cut open some packaged food etc. I asked the owner how many staff do you keep? Her shop has barely the space for customers. She said they are 11 people strong, and three are delivery boys. “Yes, if you stick around for maybe another half hour, you will see people lining up for the two tables we have in here!”
From this picture you can see what I mean by “old-schooled Hong Kong fast food joint.” These fixtures in the shop have been there for decades. They are very much the classic of that era of fast food joints. This type of interior is very familiar to my generation of Hong Kongers. There are usually just a couple of small tables with some stools. Or otherwise there are simply standing spots at a bar table. The utensils are always disposables, and the open kitchen would be spewing with the fumes from the year-old oil, with which they fry their food.
The food bloggers rave about their hand-patted hamburgers and the fried chicken leg. I therefore ordered this following platter, and it was plenty. And of course, I must get my old-schooled milk tea too.
The quality of the food is not the best as compared to what the greater fast food market has to offer. But I enjoyed every minute of my time there. I was tasting the love and dedication that brimmed in this small space, every bit humble, every bit authentic. And it is this authenticity that draws a loyal following for places like the Lucky Snack House. Its wok-fried food is spirited with the very fumes of the year-old hot oil. In Cantonese we call this “wok hey.” To make food this way the chef has to sweat a whole lot in a very hot kitchen.
The owner takes pride in her food. “These days you go to those high-end places, and all that they do differently is in making the food looks good on the plate. If you pay a few hundred dollars for a small morsel of course you are going to say it tastes good.” I admired her for seeing her shop’s value in this vast dining universe of Hong Kong.
When I grew up in Hong Kong, this type of fast food joints were really all over on the streets. By now, the prosperity of Hong Kong, and with it came much higher expectations on the dining experience, is slowly smothering the existence of these fast food shops. When Lucky Snack House closes next year, there goes a memory too. And they are numbered.
The owner told me that they are scheduled to close in February 2023. If Hong Kong reopens travels to China, the shop will close earlier. They will close earlier than the Lunar New Year so that their staff can visit their hometowns in China for the festivities. We are sure to say goodbye soon. But before then, I shall visit again, and try at least some more of what their extensive, wall-paneled menu has to offer.
The address of Lucky Snack House is 17 Burrow Street, Wan Chai.
The Story of the Chinese Rhenish Church in Hong Kong The Chinese Rhenish Church Hong Kong Synod is a protestant church of the Lutheran denomination. Originally from the Nordrhein-Westfalen region in Germany during the early 19th century, the Rhenish church’s mission arm began in Wuppertal …
We took a bus to Siena from Florence and arrived 1.5 hours later. Siena made a great first impression, but perhaps not as breathtaking as San Gimignano. During the Middle Ages, Siena was a rival of Florence in terms of culture, commerce, art and cityscape. …
The medieval town of San Gimignano is a kind of place that you can fall in love with at first sight. It is not of the same grand sophistication as Florence, the city of culture. Yet San Gimignano has a long history of its own. As a UNESCO heritage known as the “city of towers,” San Gimignano is a lot more idyllic and rustic. It shows the glory of its days in a down-to-earth wholesomeness. For the colors of San Gimignano are much more earthy than that of Florence, Lucca or Siena. Its buildings are relatively plain as compared to the elaborate architecture in Florence and Siena, but nonetheless stately in their stature.
The ancient town glimmers under the Tuscan sun. We came upon the view of the Tuscan fields afar. It reminds me of the many intangible treasures that makes Italy’s world-famous heritage. Indeed, San Gimignano is known for its Vernaccia grapes. And these grapes make great white wine.
At the Piazza della Cisterna we came across the old well that used to be the main source of fresh water for the ancient town. The well is dated to the year 1346. However, much of the restoration took place during the 20th century.
It was clear that the Piazza della Cisterna was the very center of communal life for San Gimignano. Pedestrians, musicians, pets, tourists, businesses all gravitated toward it. It was in this square that we felt the spirit of San Gimignano, a cheerful buzz matching the vibe of a perfectly sunny afternoon. The Piazza radiated charm upon the uniformly archaic character of the town.
In most other parts of the town, however, the streets were quiet. Anyone could feel the ease in a leisurely, solitary walk. This encouraged a measured appreciation of the town’s beauty. Known for its medieval towers, San Gimignano’s beauty was, first and foremost, seen as one looked up to marvel at the town’s Romanesque and gothic architecture.
Yet the common beauty that meets the eyes was in fact what stayed in my mind years after. It could be a simple pot of flowers adorning the ground or the windowsill. It could be the careful arrangement of the products by vendors, who may not care so much about earning the tourists’ money as their wish to showcase the best products of their time and their place. At some unknown residence there was a line of white shirts hanging, to us a sign of privilege—how wonderful it must have been to be a native of San Gimignano.
Even the wild flowers on the sloped edges of the city wall pleased us. I caught sight of a common bird fluttering its feathers. All commonalities seem to become memorable by merely existing in this wonderful Tuscan town.
The Wikipedia on San Gimignano.
The pristine water of Tung Ping Chau made its first impression and I saw the amazing beauty of nature right away. Even as close to human presence as the pier is, the aquamarine colored water there is so clear that you can see the sea …