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A Symphony of Colors – The Golden Glow of the Kinkaku-ji Temple

A Symphony of Colors – The Golden Glow of the Kinkaku-ji Temple

The golden glow of the Kinkaku-ji Temple comes from actual gold leaves plated on the exterior walls of its upper levels. My heart leapt as I saw it luminesce in glory and grace. The Kinkaku-ji Temple is a ten-minute bus ride from the Ryoan-ji Temple. 

A Symphony of Colors – The Ryoan-ji Temple

A Symphony of Colors – The Ryoan-ji Temple

I finally managed to wake up early enough for the morning sightseeing. The most anticipated temple of the day is the famous Kinkaku-ji Temple, also known as the Golden Pavilion. I planned on getting there when it opened at 9am. I wanted to see more, 

The Jamia Mosque

The Jamia Mosque

The Jamia Mosque is the very first official place of worship for the Muslims in Hong Kong. Built in 1890, it signifies the beginning of Islam in Hong Kong. Also known as Jamia Masjid, the name of the mosque means the “mosque of congregation” in Arabic.

The address of the Jamia Mosque of Hong Kong is 30 Shelley Street, Central, Hong Kong.

A Brief Early History of Muslims in Hong Kong

In understanding the Jamia Mosque’s significance, one must first know how the Muslims from various places of the world came to Hong Kong. In the early colonial times during the mid to late 19th century, the Muslims that came to Hong Kong were sailors and merchants of South Asian origins. By the 1850s, the British government had recognized the community of Muslims in the new colony. These early Muslims established the first Islamic organization, the Incorporated Trustees of the Islamic Community Fund, which remains a dominant representative organization for the Muslims in Hong Kong today.

In 1850, the government allocated a piece of land to the Trustees on Shelley Street, and this would become the site of the Jamia Mosque. By 1890, the original mosque was completed, and then it was enlarged in 1905. Eventually, the old mosque was pulled down and a new mosque was built. The foundation stone of the rebuilt Jamia Mosque was laid in 1915, with funds contributed by Indian businessman H.M.H Essack Elias of Bombay. This development had enabled the Indian Muslims to worship and enjoy a community life in Hong Kong.

The Jamia Mosque can host 400 prayers at a time. In its earliest beginning, the mosque called for prayers five times a day, and it was crowded on Fridays, traditionally the day of prayers for Muslims.

The neighboring streets also acquired their names from the Jamia Mosque, as in Mosque Street and Mosque Junction. This indicates the significance of the mosque in contemporary Hong Kong. The Chinese name of Mosque Street makes a reference to “mo lo,” a somewhat derogatory local term referring to the Indians in Hong Kong.

The Islamic mosque of the greatest scale and prominence in Hong Kong is the Kowloon Mosque in Tsim Sha Tsui. In 1884, the Hong Kong Government allocated this land to the Incorporated Trustees of the Islamic Community Fund. Originally, the Kowloon Mosque served the religious needs of the Punjabi who were stationed as soldiers in the Whitfield Barracks. In the decades after, this site eventually became the Kowloon Mosque today.

As times went by, the origins and makeup of the Muslim population in Hong Kong changed. The demographics of Muslims shifted in accordance with the rising needs for South Asian workers (Pakistani’s) in the police force during the colonial times, then to the need for Indonesian domestic workers currently. In between, there were Muslims coming to Hong Kong as the Hui people (Chinese Muslims) that settled down here as immigrants, there were African Muslims that did business in Chungking Mansions, and some others were refugees that intend themselves to be transient in Hong Kong.

Besides the mosques, the Hong Kong Government also gave the Muslims land for a cemetery in Happy Valley in 1870.

The Architectural Features of the Jamia Mosque

The elegance of the architecture of the Jamia Mosque lies in the very simplicity of its features. The architect of the rebuilt mosque in 1915 was Abdoolhoosen Abdoolrahim.

The Jamia Mosque is a rectangular building themed in the color green with white as the color for decorative lining. Although the color green has specific meaning in Islam, namely the color associated with heavens, the mosque had not always been green throughout its history.

A small minaret stands above the prayer hall to project the call to prayers. In Islamic architecture, the dome is a symbol for paradise, as the vault of heaven. To Muslims, it represents oneness with God. On top of the minaret, there is a rounded, small finial pointing to heaven, with a star and a crescent as the highest point of the mosque. Even amongst the various mosques in Hong Kong, the existence of a minaret is one of its kind.

In the front, an entrance leading into the prayer hall is a portico open on three sides. Four granite pillars support the minaret.

The sides of the Jamia Mosque are lined with arched windows, which are also typical in Islamic religious structures. A set of small spiral staircase is painted in white, leading to the upper balcony on the minaret.

Besides the Jamia Mosque, there is also the Residence of Muslims at Jamia Mosque next door. This building provides free housing to followers. The building itself is also a historic structure. It is believed to be an early 20th century building.

The Jamia Mosque is a Grade 1 Historic Building. The Residence of Muslims at Jamia Mosque is a Grade 2 Historic Building.

Sources

Paul O’Connor, Islam in Hong Kong (2012).

The Wikipedia on the Jamia Mosque (Hong Kong).

The Antiquities and Monuments Office, Heritage Appraisal of Jamia Mosque.

africame.factsanddetals.com, Mosque Architecture: Elements, Features, Parts.

A Symphony of Colors – The Nonomiya Shrine

A Symphony of Colors – The Nonomiya Shrine

The very last sightseeing on my first day in Arashiyama was the Nonomiya Shrine. The Nonomiya-jinja Shrine is a Shinto shrine. Because of its nature as a native faith in Japan, it differs quite significantly from the elaborate temples of Arashiyama, both in terms of 

A Symphony of Colors – The Eel Specialist Unagiya Hirokawa

A Symphony of Colors – The Eel Specialist Unagiya Hirokawa

The grilled eel of Japan is likely the most suitable first course of introduction in Japanese food for those who are not accustomed to eating raw fish. “Unagi’ is the Japanese name for freshwater eel. “Anago” is also eel, but it refers to sea eel. 

A Symphony of Colors – The Nison-in Temple in Arashiyama

A Symphony of Colors – The Nison-in Temple in Arashiyama

Perhaps the way that I toured Arashiyama did not comport with the spirit of Zen. By this time, at around noon or so, I had toured the bamboo grove, the Tenryu-ji Temple, the Okochi-Sanso Villa and the Jojakko-ji Temple. Then I was rushing to Nison-in Temple before I would be having my reserved lunch at the Unagiya Hirokawa. I really hurried through these sites. However, at every temple I felt calm. The tranquility in Arashiyama was contagious, despite the throngs of tourists everywhere.

Sightseeing in Kyoto necessarily involves a whole lot of temples. That is because there are thousands of them in the city alone. When you travel in Kyoto during the fall, the temples are also where the red foliage is featured prominently, in a perfect fusion of natural and human footprints. I went through tens of temples in this trip and I never got tired of seeing more. That is because in every temple there is something special to offer, unique either in terms of its history, its basis of faith, its architecture or its ambience. They do not look the same or feel the same at all.

Readers of this series on Japan would notice that I tend not to show photos of the Buddha statues inside the temples. The main reason is that I am Christian and I tend not to like Buddha images. But the other side of the coin is that I am able to enjoy all these temple visits even though I do not share the faith. It is with ready recognition in the value of faith in human society that I came to fully appreciate the Buddhist temples of Japan.

At Nison-in Temple, I felt an indescribable sensation when I heard the ringing of its temple belfry. It was more than calmness — the auditory stimulation touched off a spiritual yearning for joy, gratefulness and fulfillment. And then the bell rang again, and then again, and then again. I realized that people were lining up at the belfry to do a prayerful ritual.

Indeed, it was the sound from the Bell of Happiness, the sonoric reminder of life’s blessings.

A Walk Amongst the Spirits at Nison-in Temple

Photo: Three emperors of Japan were entombed here

At Nison-in Temple, I found an unlikely gem. Beyond the proper grounds for temple structures, I came upon a cemetery. That was where I felt the most at ease that morning, with a sober respect for the spirited, yet also joyful in celebrating the tranquility that lied before my eyes.

A few notable people are buried here at the cemetery of Nison-in. Three emperors were entombed here, Emperor Tsuchimikado, Emperor Go-Saga and Emperor Kameyama. The Mausoleum of Priest Tanku is also inside the temple.

I did not see one soul that ventured into this part of the temple. The seclusion was golden.

A Brief History of the Nison-in Temple

The name Nison-in refers to the two revered images that are the resident deities in the Nison-in Temple, with Amida Nyorai on the left and Shaka Nyorai on the right. According to the temple leaflet, Shaka Nyorai “is the one is the one who sends those seeking rebirth in paradise from this side of the world… Amida Nyorai receives them on the other side. The pair represents the beginning and the end of one’s life.”

The temple came from the early Heian period, circa 834 A.D., by the order of Emperor Saga.

The temple practices Tendai Buddhism, with Chief Abbot Ennin taking leadership. During the Kamakura period, Homen Shonin lived and taught Buddhism in Nison-in. He developed a good relationship with the aristocracy. The third generation Chief Priest Tanku taught Buddhism to Emperor Tsuchimikado and Emperor Go-Saga. Properly speaking, the Nison-in Temple had a long standing relationship with the nobility and imperial court of Japan for many eras, besides being the official temple during Emperor Saga’s reign.

During the Onin War (1467-1477), all of the structures of the Nison-in Temple were destroyed by fire. The Main Hall and the Imperial Envoy Gate were reconstructed in 1521.

A Word on Tendai Buddhism

The Tendai school of Buddhism embraces the Lotus Sutra as its doctrinal foundation. It gained prominence during the Heian period. The chief proponent of Tendai was Japanese monk Saicho, who introduced esoteric elements into the Mahayana Buddhist tradition. By the Kamakura period, Tendai had become a dominant form of Japanese Buddhism. As seen with the Nison-in Temple’s history above, Tendai had official support from the imperial family.

To highlight a point of relevance to the touring of Arashiyama temples, Nichiren Buddhism, as one of the six “Kamakura Buddhism,” was the basis of faith for the Jojakko-ji Temple. It is also located in Mount Ogura, pretty much “next door” in Arashiyama. It arose in response to the corruption and inadequacies of Tendai and its rival Shingon school.

Tendai Buddhism emphasizes the importance of the Lotus Sutra and its unifying nature for all Buddhism. In Tendai’s “One Great Perfect Teaching,” all teachings of the Buddha are ultimately without contradiction and can be brought together in one comprehensive perfect system (Wikipedia on Tendai). Tendai Buddhism advocates for the universality of Buddhism.

Sources

Descriptions on site at the Nison-in Temple.

The Wikipedia on Tendai.

The Wikiepedia on Nison-In.

A Symphony of Colors –The Jojakko-ji Temple in Arashiyama

A Symphony of Colors –The Jojakko-ji Temple in Arashiyama

After touring the Okochi-Sanso Villa, I made my way to the Jojakko-ji Temple, also in the vicinity. In terms of natural environ, the Jojakko-ji Temple brings to the large selection of temple visits in Arashiyama another kind of aura. The red foliage at Jojakko-ji Temple 

Shenzhen Shorts – The Xianhu Botanical Park

Shenzhen Shorts – The Xianhu Botanical Park

Along the theme of autumn foliage, I visited the Xianhu Botanical Park in Shenzhen a couple days ago. The day of visit is January 16, 2025. There is an admission fee of RMB 15 yuan for entrance between 8:00am and 6:00pm. The park is open 

The Hong Kong Wetland Park

The Hong Kong Wetland Park

The Hong Kong Wetland Park is a large conservation park featuring mangroves in Tin Shui Wai, northwestern Hong Kong. On this day I went to the Wetland Park for red foliage photography. The day of visit is January 17, 2025.

The admission fee for the Hong Kong Wetland Park is $30, cash and octopus only. Please allow at least two hours just to walk around the key features of the park.

On this day the exhibition hall was closed due to renovation. That was alright, as the point of the Wetland Park really is to see the nature there. I proceeded to the outdoors right away, and soon arrived at the section for autumn foliage viewing.

A Few Words About the Hong Kong Wetland Park

Tin Shui Wai is perhaps one of the most recent largescale community developments (new town) in Hong Kong. It has been a few decades since its development. A large area of natural wetland had to be reclaimed in order to make way for both residential and business use. The Wetland Park was originally intended to be an ecological mitigation area to compensate for the loss of the natural environ there. The Hong Kong Wetland Park opened its door to the public in 2006.

Consisting of 61 acres of land and water area, the Wetland Park was envisioned to create a space where the public could learn about an invaluable natural resource, while conserving and preserving the habitat for many kinds of migratory and waterbirds. As such, there are two primary attractions for visitors at the Hong Kong Wetland Park: the birdwatching stations and the mangroves.

Red Foliage Season at the Hong Kong Wetland Park

This was my second time visiting the Hong Kong Wetland Park. I came to the Wetland Park in search of beautiful autumn foliage, in line with the autumn theme in my recent entries. I will say just a few words about the photography.

You will enter into the Wetland Park and there is really only one path to go throughout the park area. I began by walking on the Stream Walk. You will come across the site of red foliage very soon, as you head on over the Succession Walk. It lies in a waterfront area, and the environment is wide open with beautiful structures on the side.

In terms of the presence of bald cypress trees, which have turned red at this season, there are really only two sections of them. For a place like Hong Kong, where the bald cypress is in fact not native, that will suffice for taking nice scenery photos.

The Mangroves of Wetland Park

I think a true appreciation of the mangroves in Hong Kong Wetland Park must come with some knowledge. A wetland is where the land is flooded with water, either all time of the year or seasonally. Very often, wetlands are formed where a fresh water system meets the ocean, or a brackish water system. The wetlands in Tin Shui Wai are where fresh water meets the ocean. In this kind of environment, a habitat emerges that is suitable for the flourishing of both aquatic plant and animal species. Waterborne microorganisms support the biosphere in a marshy area. They are the very bottom of a food chain that sustains life. The mangroves can provide food, shelter and nursery ground to different animals such as mudskippers and fiddler crabs. In the Hong Kong Wetland Park, there are freshwater marshes, intertidal mudflats and reed marshes.

At the Mangrove Boardwalk, there is a floating bridge that leads you through a small section of the mangroves and you can see that natural phenomenon up close. To be sure, the scenery is not “pretty.” But if you understand the ecological significance of a wetland, you would find the walk interesting.

Bird Watching at the Hong Kong Wetland Park

There are 5 spots for birdwatching at the Hong Kong Wetland Park, and to take photographs of the birds, you do need super sophisticated equipment, as the bird hides are located rather far away to minimize the disturbance to the creatures. Amongst the three bird hides of Riverside Hide, Mudflat Hide and Fishpond Hide, I found the Fishpond Hide to be the most interesting. In all of the bird hides, there are binoculars for bird watchers to use.

Finally, you will also be able to see the birds afar from the Viewing Pavilion. Before you head out to the exit of the Wetland Park, you will arrive at one more viewing spot, lined with a reed-made screen. I was surprised, as that was actually the one that is closest to the birds, if they are there.

Hundreds of species of birds are commonly seen at the Hong Kong Wetland Park. To name just a few, Grey Heron, Yellow-bellied Prinia, White Wagtail, Great Egret, Little Egret, Great Cormorant, Dusky Warbler, the endangered Black-faced Spoonbill, and many more.

Sources

The website of the Hong Kong Wetland Park.

Autumn Foliage in Lau Shui Heung

Autumn Foliage in Lau Shui Heung

I have been doing a whole lot of autumn excursions, particularly in photographing red foliage scenery. There have been innumerable posts online showing the beautiful Bald Cypress in Lau Shui Heung. I have previously written about the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail loop, and so