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A Symphony of Colors – The Eel Specialist Unagiya Hirokawa

A Symphony of Colors – The Eel Specialist Unagiya Hirokawa

The grilled eel of Japan is likely the most suitable first course of introduction in Japanese food for those who are not accustomed to eating raw fish. “Unagi’ is the Japanese name for freshwater eel. “Anago” is also eel, but it refers to sea eel. 

A Symphony of Colors – The Nison-in Temple in Arashiyama

A Symphony of Colors – The Nison-in Temple in Arashiyama

Perhaps the way that I toured Arashiyama did not comport with the spirit of Zen. By this time, at around noon or so, I had toured the bamboo grove, the Tenryu-ji Temple, the Okochi-Sanso Villa and the Jojakko-ji Temple. Then I was rushing to Nison-in 

A Symphony of Colors –The Jojakko-ji Temple in Arashiyama

A Symphony of Colors –The Jojakko-ji Temple in Arashiyama

After touring the Okochi-Sanso Villa, I made my way to the Jojakko-ji Temple, also in the vicinity.

In terms of natural environ, the Jojakko-ji Temple brings to the large selection of temple visits in Arashiyama another kind of aura. The red foliage at Jojakko-ji Temple is fused in one with its temple structures. The warm colors of the foliage hover over the minimalistic temple architecture. In Jojakko-ji Temple I experienced the variations of light, and it felt spiritual there. I certainly felt the warmth of apricity the in late morning. As I ascended on a higher point in the temple, the cool mists from Mount Ogura seemed to have descended upon me. Jojakko-ji Temple unveiled the full contours of its charm, and I was spellbound.

A Brief History of the Jojakko-ji Temple

Roughly meaning the “everlasting light of wisdom when nearing nirvana” in Japanese (livejapan.com), the Jojakko-ji Temple was founded in 1596, at a time when Japan was mired in civil wars and right at the dawn of the Edo period. The temple is of the Nichiren School of Japanese Buddhism. Based on the teachings of the Lotus Sutra, the Buddhist priest Nichiren developed this school of Buddhism during the Kamakura period in the 13th century. Nichiren Buddhism was thought to be one of the “six new schools” of Kamakura Buddhism that emerged in this time.

Arose in a time of civil strife in Japan, Nichiren Buddhism advocated for a practical application of the Lotus Sutra in one’s individual life, including both meditation and actions, to eventually benefit the society at large. As a priest, Nichiren argued against the other popular schools of Buddhism that proposed competing views about the doctrinal teachings of the Lotus Sutra. In fact, he was very much against Zen Buddhism, which was a preeminent school of practice in Arashiyama (for more, see my previous entry on the Tenryu-ji Temple).

A Tour at the Jojakko-ji Temple

There are four main structures in the Jojakko-ji Temple. From the ground up, you would go through the Niomon Gate first, then Hondo to your right, Myoken-do to your left, and Tahoto at an even higher vantage point. Wonderful seasonal trees lined up all over the temple grounds and clothe Jojakko-ji in the velvety flush of autumn colors. Although there were a lot of foot traffic at this time of the year, one will not miss the serenity that percolates in this temple.

Niomon Gate

The thatched roofed, simple structure indicates the way to enter into the light of wisdom at Jojakko-ji Temple. The Niomon Gate is a 14th century structure that is also the oldest in the temple. As I approached the Niomon Gate, I began to sense the spirit of more than 200 Japanese maple trees, winging their magic touch on a beautiful autumn day.

The Hondo (Main Hall)

The Hondo was built in the Keicho era (1596-1615), its original was the guest hall at the Momoyama-joh (Fushimi) Castle in Kyoto. The hall was moved to this temple and converted into the Hondo.

The Myoken-Do Hall

Myoken-do is a hall dedicated to the Bodhisattva of the North Star. It is believed to bless followers with a longevity.

The Tahoto Pagoda

On an elevated point beyond the temple grounds stands the Tahoto Pagoda. This pagoda was built at a much later time, in the 17th century, but in the style of the spectacular Momoyama style of a century earlier.

Although it was an incredibly peaceful walk at the Jojakko-ji Temple, I spent only about an hour there and moved right along to the next sightseeing, the Nison-in Temple.

Sources

Kaipai! on Jojakko-ji.

The Wikipedia on Nichiren Buddhism.

www.japan.travel, Jojakko-ji Temple.

livejapan.com, Jojakko-ji Temple: Experiencing Sensational Kyoto Fall Foliage at a Magical Garden.

Descriptions on site at the Jojakko-ji Temple.

Shenzhen Shorts – The Xianhu Botanical Park

Shenzhen Shorts – The Xianhu Botanical Park

Along the theme of autumn foliage, I visited the Xianhu Botanical Park in Shenzhen a couple days ago. The day of visit is January 16, 2025. There is an admission fee of RMB 15 yuan for entrance between 8:00am and 6:00pm. The park is open 

The Hong Kong Wetland Park

The Hong Kong Wetland Park

The Hong Kong Wetland Park is a large conservation park featuring mangroves in Tin Shui Wai, northwestern Hong Kong. On this day I went to the Wetland Park for red foliage photography. The day of visit is January 17, 2025. The admission fee for the 

Autumn Foliage in Lau Shui Heung

Autumn Foliage in Lau Shui Heung

I have been doing a whole lot of autumn excursions, particularly in photographing red foliage scenery. There have been innumerable posts online showing the beautiful Bald Cypress in Lau Shui Heung. I have previously written about the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail loop, and so in this post I will only share about the tips for photographing the stretch of red foliage there.

Timing

In mid January this year, the red foliage season is nearing its end. I took these photographs at Lau Shui Heung on January 18, 2025. At 7:05am, the sun rises. Then you will see how the sun rays light up the whole environ gradually. At 9am, the whole stretch of the red foliage will come under broad daylight. That is when the scenery is perfect for photography.

Needless to say, the point of this excursion is photography at the best hour, but I think the whole experience is complete if you are able to get up early to see sun rise there. I live quite close to Fanling, so I drove and arrived at 6:45am. At this hour, the path was already well lit enough to walk on without resort to flashlight.

There are two reasons why I suggest photographers get there early. Perhaps the main reason is the need to find your spot early. By 8 or 9 am, all the prime spots in the small stretch of ground where you take these photographs would be filled up by a whole camera crew in this peak season for photography. When I arrived at 6:45am, there were already a few kindred spirits there securing their spots.

Secondly, in arriving there super early, I had the opportunity to observe how the scenery changed as the moon made way for the sun to come up. I saw the moon, yes, when I arrived, and that was itself an amazing experience.

Photo: A view of Lau Shui Heung at dawn.

In the early morning, there is an ever-flowing firmament of fog above the waters of the Lau Shui Heung Reservoir. The whole scenery is misty. That makes it near poetic, although it might not be the most beautiful photography. Photographers have commented that the waters are also not so still at this hour. As such, you would not be able to capture the reflection of the red foliage in the water beneath.

The key timing to watch is between 8:30-9:30. The lighting there will be good enough for photographs only by 9am or so, when sun rays light up the whole stretch of red cypress trees. That is also the time when the water becomes still enough to show beautiful mirroring of the trees (well, if you are quite lucky, and I was quite lucky).

Photo: As the morning progresses, the day moves from the top of the hill downward to finally light up the whole stretch of Bald Cypress woods.

The Location for Photography

I have been to the Lau Shui Heung area a number of times and it was no problem for me to find the one spot where every keen spirit takes photographs. From the Pat Sin Leng Country Park roundabout, there is an entry way that is gently inclined before you get to the public restroom. That path takes about fifteen minutes from the minibus drop off point. Once you have reached the public restroom, keep on going and you will enter into the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail. Keep on going (do not enter on the stairs on the left), with the Lau Shui Heung Reservoir on your right.

On the unpaved rocky path, watch out for an opening on your right. Before you arrive at the proper viewing platform, you will see an opening on your right that leads you to the waterfront. Descend onto that opening, it is a mud path. On your right, you will come across a small stretch of a sandy lookout area. That is where you will see a full view of the row of cypress tree that is the subject of your photography.

Be very careful because this area has no railing to protect you from falling into the water. If you are to be there as early as sunrise, perhaps bring a beach mat with you so that the dirt does not get on your belongings.

The viewing platform does show you a pretty good view of the cypress trees, but perhaps it is not the best position for proper photography. Just know that, when you come to the viewing platform, you would have already passed the sandy stretch that I mention above.

Photo: A view of the Bald Cypress foliage at the viewing platform.

Up Close Photography at the Tree Corridor

Usually, people take photographs at the sandy stretch by the waterfront. By 9am or so, the sun will light up the trees completely and it is a perfect time to photograph the Bald Cypress trees for closeup shots. Keep walking on the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail, and within five minutes, you will see two bridges ahead of you. Head on to the first bridge on your right and you will arrive at the cypress tree corridor.

Photo: This is the first bridge in the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail that leads you to the tree corridor, but the sign (in Chinese) is no longer at the present site. 

There will already be quite a crowd there by that time, however.

A Few Words on the Red Foliage of Lau Shui Heung

The trees that make this beautiful scenery in Lau Shui Heung were planted by the government in the effort to prevent soil erosion by the bank. While the Bald Cypress is what makes the red foliage, there is also a small portion of Water Pine. These trees were chosen because they adapt well to marshy soils, as the water level of the Lau Shui Heung Reservoir is not stable. It could go through a drought in the winter, and it could also be flooded during the summer.

Photo: The Bald Cypress at dry season.

Needless to say, the beautification aspect of the Bald Cypress was intended by the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department in its thematic planting initiative. In 2011-2012, the first batch of 40 Bald Cypress saplings were planted here. In 2016 to 2018, the planting area was doubled, and more than 100 trees make up the conifer wood now.

From an ecological perspective, there is an issue with planting trees that are not native in Hong Kong, in that it does not support the bioecology of the area because the birds and insects of Hong Kong will not feed on the seeds. I have no knowledge in this respect. But the Bald Cypress of Lau Shui Heung is truly, exceptionally, beautiful.

How to Get There

From the Fanling MTR Station Exit C, take the Greentop Minibus Route 52B and get off at the Lau Shui Heung Reservoir stop. That is where you will walk for about 15 minutes via the entry way into the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail entrances. The earliest minibus is at 6:00am.

Towngas and CulinArt 1862

Towngas and CulinArt 1862

We picked a restaurant randomly for Restaurant Week and came across CulinArt 1862. We figured that it was part of the Towngas Avenue brand dining establishment because of its location and the 1862 reference. This has inspired me to look a bit deeper into Towngas 

The Jao Tsung-I Academy

The Jao Tsung-I Academy

The Jao Tsung-I Academy celebrates and memorializes the legendary life of Jao Tsung-I, a sinologist of many talents in arts and history. I took a walk at the venue and joined a public tour. The Life of Jao Tsung-I Jao Tsung-I was very accomplished in 

Autumn Excursion for Red Foliage in Shenzhen

Autumn Excursion for Red Foliage in Shenzhen

The bloggers and photographers in Hong Kong have been raving about the red foliage that has lined up the public parks in Shenzhen. I jumped on the bandwagon and visited two parks. I first visited the Sihai Park in Shekou, then headed over to the Lianhuashan Park in Futian. Let me introduce readers to Lianhuashan Park first.

The date of visit was January 10, 2025.

The Lianhuashan Park in Shenzhen

Lianhuashan Park, meaning the “Lotus Mountain,” acquired its name due to its location. Nestled within the seven hugging mountains shaped like a blooming lotus, the park features an exceedingly large land area with the substance and form of a well-manicured natural environ. Because I had the prior experience at Sihai Park, which was really not too nice in my opinion, the Lianhuashan Park was excellent, both in its own right and also as it is compared to the Sihai Park.

I took the subway and arrived at the northwestern gate of Lianhuashan Park. As soon as I entered the park, I felt this sense of openness and wholesomeness right away. The park features well-maintained, broad and paved pathways, with many beautiful park installations.

The trees were tall and grand, and you could see right away that this environment was a result of careful urban ecological planning. Trees of one kind lined whole sections of the park. Then you would see other species in the next section.

The pathway to the lake area was slightly inclined but it was a comfortable and pleasant walk. My heart leapt at the sight of the first red foliage.

The park was an incredible venue of respite from the now-fully-urbanized Shenzhen cityscape. I was amazed at how this park was serene – there were surely many people there, but the atmosphere was calm. The activities in this area were mostly strolling and fishing. The sights of cranes gliding elegantly across the lake caught the wonders of many bystanders.

I soon came into the lake area and enjoyed the scene of red foliage. People were fishing, and children ran around freely. Some people sat down simply to enjoy the apricity of January.

There are a whole lot more bald cypress in the Lianhuashan Park than the Sihai Park. The foliage in Lianhuashan Park are fuller, its colors brighter, and all around much more beautiful.

There are other features in the park, including a statue of Deng Xiaoping, who was being memorialized in this park for his contribution to the economic development of Shenzhen, but I did not see it.

This was the first time that I visited a park in Shenzhen. I was roiling in resentment after visiting the Sihai Park, and the Lianhuashan Park certainly redeemed the reputation of Shenzhen parks for me.

I exited the park via the Shimin Zhongxin (Citizens’ Center) subway exit.

The Sihai Park

On this day, I visited the Sihai Park first. It is a community park located in the Shekou area, which is close to the southwestern end of Shenzhen.

As a community park, the Sihai Park certainly features the activities and characteristics that are more down to earth than the Lianhuashan Park. At first I enjoyed the sight of people dancing and doing their taichi in the morning hours. This is a familiar scene and certainly a show of the park’s significance for the locals.

However, as I searched for the waterfront areas, I started hearing loud karaoke singing all along the park. Also, the park is clearly surrounded by the urban landscape of Shenzhen, and there was not a sense that you could find any kind of full escape from the city life in this park.

As to the red foliage, there are about two small sections. The bridge is photogenic, but the foliage was not as full and as colorful as that of the Lianhuashan Park. As my first visit to a Shenzhen park, the Sihai Park was not pleasant. I left the park in disappointment.

I debated and debated whether to see the Lianhuashan Park, but decided to give it a go. That turned out to be a good decision.

 

A Symphony of Colors –The Okochi-Sanso Villa in Arashiyama

A Symphony of Colors –The Okochi-Sanso Villa in Arashiyama

I had limited time in the day. My reserved table at the Unagiya Hirokawa Restaurant would be up at 2pm, and I spent too much time at the bamboo grove. After some debate, I decided that I would see the Okochi-Sanso Villa, despite initial doubts.