Vignettes of the World
Nanzen-ji Temple is one of the most important Zen temples in Japan. Nestled in the foothill of the Higashiyama mountains, Nanzen-ji Temple has an enormous temple ground that accommodates many sub-temples, as well as a 19th century aqueduct. This presents tourists the opportunity for a …
Take a walk in Central during non-office hours and you find two hot spots that brim with tourist energy. The Tsim Chai Kee wonton noodles and Lan Fong Yuen together take over the little walking space there is in the Central Mid-levels escalator area as …
Tai O of Lantau Island is known for many wonderful things. A thorough exploration of the treasures of Tai O is a whole-day affair. I have previously covered the Tai O Heritage Hotel, formerly Old Tai O Police Station. On this slightly cloudy spring day I decided to see a few things in Tai O to complete the coverage of this well-known fishing village.
As a fishing village, Tai O takes pride in all the local history and industry that embody its ocean-swept character. It might be a little extreme to call it “the Venice of Hong Kong,” but it does have this good name. The stilt houses made of metallic exteriors stand ever so bravely through the many storms that brought floods to their already-elevated floors.
It is no Venice, in the farthest stretch of imagination, but Tai O comes with a beauty of its own.
Formerly the Old Tai O Police Station, the Tai O Heritage Hotel lies on the westernmost end of Tai O in Lantau Island. It is a great venue to learn about the history of Tai O, and also to savor some of the cuisine that features local ingredients.
According to government sources, the People’s Liberation Army’s Hong Kong Garrison has a total of 19 military sites in Hong Kong. These defensive sites are properly the property of the PLA. Tai O Barracks, formerly Naval Coastal Observation Station, was one of the 19 defense sites that the British government handed over to the Chinese government pursuant to an Exchange of Notes made in 1994.
Standing as it is now, the site is perhaps not worth visiting for common visitors, unless you are a military history buff. First of all, the whole site is locked. This is the best that I could capture with photograph.
Secondly, the environment also suggests that the site is deserted. Without entry into the facility, I could not see the historic barracks inside.
What a military history buff can do is to search out for the boundary stones marked D.L. (defense lot) throughout the site. I saw some danger in that, however, because the surrounding areas are densely vegetated. The hilly slopes are also unpredictable. See here for the map of the Tai O Barracks on historicalwalkhk.com.
The Tai O Barracks would be a “why not” option for those who venture out to this area of Tai O to see the Tai O Heritage Hotel. Even though there was not much to see there, it was a somewhat sweaty climb even on a slightly chilly spring day. I clocked in enough exercise there.
This is the way to go to the Tai O Barracks. At this point of the Tai O Heritage Hotel, enter the slope that will lead you up to the hotel. When you arrive at the top of the slope, instead of turning right, head on to the path on the left. There is a sign that says Military Use. That is the way to get to the Tai O Barracks.
The hike at Fu Shan (Tiger Hill) in Tai O features fantastic open-air views of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge. The hike takes just about an hour and it is a very easy climb.
Fu Shan is the highest hill in Tai O. What you should aim for is the viewing pavilion along this path, where you will see both beautiful inland views of Tai O and ocean views with the bridge.
To get to the Fu Shan viewing pavilion, find your way to the Hung Shing Temple of Tai O. Next to the temple on the left, there is a Shaolin Wushu Cultural Centre (photo below, on the right). The trail lies on the left of the Shaolin Wushu Cultural Centre.
After walking about two minutes, you will see the crossroads here. Take the path on your left and begin the gentle ascent. You will soon come to the beautiful scenic part of the trail.
After you finish the trail here, make a right to head toward the direction of the general town area of Tai O, with quite a number of dining establishments (more below on dining).
I will only go through these temples very briefly here.
The Hung Shing Temple of Tai O lies at the beginning of the trail to Fu Shan. A quick look takes just about 5-10 minutes there.
This Hung Shing Temple of Tai O was founded in the 11th year of the Qianlong reign (1748) at the foot of Fu Shan in Tai O. Like so many of the temples in the outlying islands of Hong Kong, this Hung Shing Temple also comes with the good feng shui of “having the mountains at its back and facing the sea.” The Hung Shing Temple faces the ocean. The temple had undergone four restorations in its history, the latest one resulted in a consecration ceremony in 1995.
Hung Shing is the patron deity for the islander and fishermen communities of South China. Like the people of Tong Fuk Tsuen, also in Lantau Island, the people of Tai O revered Hung Shing specifically as the God of the Southern Sea. Hung Shing was a government official in Guangzhou named Hong Hei. He was well versed in matters of meteorology. He was deified by a Song dynasty emperor.
The Yeung Hau Temple lies on the way when you have exited the trail and heading toward the village area of Tai O, right by Po Chue Tam. Celebrating the revered historical figure General Yang Liangjie of Song Dynasty, the temple had quite a number of visitors on the day that I visited.
Hau Wong is generally believed to be the Song dynasty general Yang Liangjie, who was a key figure in protecting the last emperors of the Song dynasty during the dynasty’s final demise. The frail last forces of the Song dynasty made it to Hong Kong for a temporary refuge. Legend has it that Yang Liangjie defended against the Yuan forces in a battle in the waters of Lantau Island, preserving Emperor Di Bing, who would be the very last emperor of the Song dynasty.
Hau Wong is a patron deity in a few temples in Hong Kong. The most famous one is the Hau Wong Temple of Kowloon City, which is a declared monument. In Lantau Island alone, there is a Hau Wong Temple in Tung Chung, about which I have previously written. Tai O’s Yueng Hau Temple is another one.
The Yeung Hau Temple of Tai O was founded on the 38th year of the Kangxi reign (1699). It had undergone restorations for a few times, the most recent one being in 2016, and it cost HK $10 million. The temple has a long history of holding the birthday celebration of Hau Wong every June 6th of the Lunar calendar.
The Yeung Hau Temple of Tai O is a Grade 1 Historic Building.
The Kwan Tai Temple of Tai O lies inside the village area of Tai O. It was founded during the Hongzhi reign of the Ming dynasty (between 1488 and 1505). The Kwan Tai Temple had undergone multiple times of restorations in its long history. It might be one of the oldest temples in Lantau Island.
Kwan Tai (also Mo Tai) is the god of war and traditionally the deity that both the police and the bandits revered. Please see the entry on Man Mo Temple for more about the god of war.
The Kwan Tai Temple of Tai O is a Grade 2 Historic Building.
It is possible to hike from Tung Chung to Tai O. The walk is very long for 4 hours, but it is very easy, with almost no climbing invovled.
Finally, the famous pink dolphins of Hong Kong are supposedly viewable in Tai O as well, but from what I understand, this heavily inhabited area is not an ideal place to view them. See my previous entry on a boat tour that bears much greater potential for spotting the pink dolphins.
Like all fishing villages in Hong Kong, seafood is often featured and touted as the meal of local flavors for tourists. I have previously introduced the Tai O Lookout at the Tai O Heritage Hotel. This time, I opted for cheap comfort food and found Tai O Sha Wo Wong (Tai O King of Claypot), located on No. 85, Kat Hing Street, Tai O. This is the first proper restaurant that you will come across when you have left the trail and about to enter into the town area of the fishing village.
Just a few steps further, you will find Tai O Bakery, which specializes in Chinese donuts, but I preferred their mango mochi.
For most people in Hong Kong, the most natural means of traveling to Tai O is to take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then take Bus Route 11 from Tung Chung to Tai O. The bus journey takes at least 45 minutes. Tai O is close to the southwestern end of Lantau Island, and it really is very far.
For those living in northwestern New Territories, they will be well served in taking the ferry from the Tuen Mun Pier. From Tuen Mun Pier to Tai O, the ferry ride takes about an hour. The same ferry will take you to Tung Chung in 25 minutes. Please plan your journey, however, as the ferry schedule is rather sparse as compared to other means of transportation.
The Wikipedia on Property Owned by Central People’s Government in Hong Kong.
The Hong Kong Government Information Website, LCQ9: Military Sites.
Gwulo.com, Military Sites of the PLA Hong Kong Garrison.
Founded in 1911, St. Paul’s Church stands beautifully on Glenealy in Neo-Gothic, Classical Revival and Dutch styles of architecture. The church belongs to a group of heritage buildings that stand on an area named Tit Kong, the Iron Mound. This group of heritage buildings include …
There are not too many options for proper hiking in Sheung Shui. I have covered Tai Shek Mo previously, and today I made it to the Wah Shan hike from Sheung Shui to Fanling. Be prepared to roll on the rolling ridges that fasten themselves …
The Man Mo Temple is one of the earliest temples established in Hong Kong Island. Two wealthy Chinese merchants came up with the funds to build it between 1847 and 1862. Standing on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, Man Mo Temple bears witness to the lives of those Hong Kong Chinese that lived in the Sheung Wan area in the early colonial times till the present. As a place where most Chinese residents of Sheung Wan frequent, the Man Mo Temple was more than a place of worship. It once was the venue for meting out justice and resolving civilian disputes.
If you would like to see just one or two temples of significance in Hong Kong Island, my suggestion is to visit the Man Mo Temple in Sheung Wan or the Lin Fa Temple in Tai Hang.
Sheung Wan became an area where the early Chinese residents of Hong Kong congregated, locating west of then Victoria City, which included most of the now-Central district. In those days, Victoria City was exclusively European and British in its composition. The Sheung Wan area had a business district for the Chinese shops close to the harbor front. The inland area was where the Chinese people lived.
The Man Mo Temple compound of Sheung Wan consists of three separate but abutting blocks. The largest chamber is the Man Mo Temple. The middle, smaller block is called Lit Shing Kung, meaning “all saints” in Chinese. Finally, on the westernmost end stands the Kung Sor, which served as an important community hall.
As the largest of the three blocks, the Man Mo Temple was particularly crowded in the early days of the Lunar New Year. The two gods that are the resident deities there are the Man Cheong and the Mo Tai.
Man Cheong, meaning the god of literature, is a legend from as far back as the Qin dynasty. His name was Cheung Ah Tse, born in 287 A.D. It is said that during his lifetime, he had power over the government officials of the Qin dynasty. As such, he was traditionally the god of reverence for those who aimed high in the imperial civilian examinations. Man Cheong was deified as “Man Tai” by an emperor in the Yuan dynasty.
Mo Tai, meaning the god of war, is a legend from the three kingdoms period. His name was Guan Yu, born in 160 A.D. He was a great warrior and had the reputation for being loyal and righteous. As such, he was traditionally the god of reverence for both the police and the bandits. Historically, Mo Tai was very often the deity by which brotherhood or fraternity were sworn. Guan Yu was deified as “Mo Tai” by an emperor in the Ming dynasty.
As with all old temples in Hong Kong, the temple bell and drum are the artefacts that indicate the temple’s year of establishment. In Man Mo Temple, the Qing era bronze bell was cast in 1847. Followers may beat the old drum at Man Mo Temple, but perhaps in light taps only.
The Lit Shing Kung is for the worship of all other deities, including Kwun Yam. Due to the smaller space there, it felt like it was even more crowded than the Man Mo Temple next door.
During the early colonial times, the way that the Chinese people took oath was by “burning the yellow paper” and “chopping off the chicken’s head.” By taking these oaths the Chinese people are bound by their declaration and it was an effective legal oath. However, this proceeding must be held in the Man Mo Temple.
There was a monetary dispute between two wealthy merchants that the Hong Kong courts at the time did not manage to resolve. The two parties involved were told to take it to Kung Sor. As the story goes, both the plaintiff and the defendant refused to swear by the “chopping off the chicken head” ceremony. The plaintiff was then determined to be unreliable by refusing to swear by the Chinese oath first, as such failing to state his case. The Hong Kong court decided that he lost the case.
The Man Mo Temple exhibits many aspects of traditional Chinese temple architecture. On the green tiled rooftop, there are beautiful figurines made of clay, traditionally depicting a scene of religious, cultural or folkloric significance.
The Man Mo Temple comes with a Chinese pitched tiled roof. It has a 2-hall, 3-bay layout. In keeping with tradition, the rear hall, where the altars of the deities are placed, stands on a higher platform than the front hall.
There is a screen door at the front hall of the Man Mo Temple.
The Man Mo Temple is a declared monument since 2010. The Tung Wah Group has managed the Man Mo Temple pursuant to the Man Mo Temple Ordinance of 1908. Apart from the regular expenditures of the temple, such as annual religious ceremonies and maintenance and restorations, the Man Mo Temple is committed by law to donate its revenue (named Man Mo Temple Fund) to charitable causes, including education and the hospitals of the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals.
The community leaders of the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals still visit the Man Mo Temple for autumnal rites every year, and pray for the prosperity of Hong Kong. The Man Mo Temple is also frequented by some Hong Kong celebrities.
Finally, the Man Mo Temple of Tai Po is also a declared monument. There will be another entry about that temple.
The Official Website of Man Mo Temple.
The Hong Kong Tourism Board, Man Mo Temple.
The Man Mo Temple Ordinance (Cap 154).
Antiquities and Monuments Office, Man Mo Temple Compound.
The Wikipedia on Man Mo Temple of the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals (Chin).
Tune Wah Group of Hospitals, Man Mo Temple.
Once you’ve had Japanese food in Japan, you can never go back to Japanese food elsewhere. This has been the comment I have heard from many, many people. As this was my first trip ever to Japan, I naturally had high expectations for its food. …
The Gio-ji Temple lies in the quiet of Arashiyama’s back quarters, its petite garden covered in moss. Its humility is deceiving. Unlike the bigger temples, such as Tenryu-ji, Jojakko-ji or the Nison-in Temple, Gio-ji appears, at first glance, to pale significantly in terms of the …
If the 1,200 rakan statues that stand at the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple represent the Buddhist followers’ celebration of their faith in life, then the 8,000 stone markers at the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple are the proper tribute to death.
The sky opened up at this hour of the afternoon and an abundance of sunlight and warmth filled the air. From Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple I decided to walk back down to the Arashiyama area, of which I had some familiarity due to my tour in the previous day. I came upon Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, and to my surprise, I saw an unintended and unlikely juxtaposition between the two temples that presented the occasion for a philosophical appreciation of life, coming full circle from living to death.
The symphony of colors in Kyoto’s autumn easily distracts visitors from the ultimate purpose of temple visits. If anything, it should be a moment of renewal, a place and time to consider the larger questions in life.
But it was in fact the symphony of colors that drew me to the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple. At first, I only noticed a path lined with beautiful red foliage. I could not help but to embark upon this slightly inclined path. At the end of it, I found the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple.
There was a garden space but some unique gateways and structures there made the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple special. There was a mount, and a pagoda as well. I figured that the short stone pillars served some ceremonial purposes in death. The red foliage there was particularly vibrant. There was no eeriness amidst the bright sunshine of the day.
Like the church graveyards of medieval times in European countries, the temples of Japan were often sites of burials as well. The Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, however, originated from the burial of the dead.
During the Heian period, the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple had an eerie past as a site of open burial for those who had no family or friends who could oversee a proper rite for their passing. At some point in history, the remains were buried in a simple manner. The stone pillars memorialized the spirited, as grave markers.
The temple began when the famous monk Kukai (774-835 A.D.), who was the founder of Shingon Buddhism, established a temple in this area about 1,200 years ago. Even at the temple’s inception, it stood for the remembrance of the dead as the site of prayers for the departed.
Then the founder of Pure Land Buddhism, Honen (1133-1212 A.D.), turned the temple into the site of practice for nenbutsu. Nenbutsu is a ritual recitation of Amida Buddha. It will lead to a rebirth into the realm of paradise. Amida Buddha is the resident deity at the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple.
About 100 years ago during the Meiji period, there was effort to collect all the stone markers in the area. People placed them in a dedicated space, and they lit candles as an act of worship.
At Sai no Kawara, 8,000 stone grave markers stand. There is a festival of candle lighting annually to these lonely spirits at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple. At the Sento Kuyo festival, innumerable candles are lit amidst the grave markers in Sai no Kawara in late August each year for this event, a tradition that came from the Meiji period.
Finally, at the other end of the temple, having passed through the Sai no Kawara, I saw a section of a bamboo grove that was truly serene, with few souls there. I could take photographs any way I wanted. If you do not manage to see the famous bamboo grove of Arashiyama, this would be a perfect alternative.
If you ask me, however, I’d say the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple is worthy of a visit in its own right.
Properly speaking, this area is in fact beyond the Arashiyama / Sagano area already. The Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street features old traditional Japanese houses called machiya’s. They often come with pitched roofs and the structures are built of wood. They are now mostly shops and businesses.
The official website of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple at https://nenbutsuji.jp/eng/#a-yurai
www.japan.travel, Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple at https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1143/.
Wonderful Japan, Saga Toriimoto at https://www.wonderful-japan.com/en/saga-toriimoto/
The Hehu Xinju is in so many ways representative of Hakka culture in both Shenzhen and in China. In this tour of the enormous Hakka residential complex, I learned about the significance of the Luo family, who established its prominence in Shenzhen since the Qianlong …