Vignettes of the World
The Gio-ji Temple lies in the quiet of Arashiyama’s back quarters, its petite garden covered in moss. Its humility is deceiving. Unlike the bigger temples, such as Tenryu-ji, Jojakko-ji or the Nison-in Temple, Gio-ji appears, at first glance, to pale significantly in terms of the …
If the 1,200 rakan statues that stand at the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple represent the Buddhist followers’ celebration of their faith in life, then the 8,000 stone markers at the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple are the proper tribute to death. The sky opened up at this hour …
The Hehu Xinju is in so many ways representative of Hakka culture in both Shenzhen and in China. In this tour of the enormous Hakka residential complex, I learned about the significance of the Luo family, who established its prominence in Shenzhen since the Qianlong era of the Qing dynasty.
The address of Hehu Xinju is No.1, Luoruihe North Street, Longgang District, Shenzhen.
Before the formal establishment of Shenzhen as a district in 1979, about 60% of the population in residence in Bao’an County were of Hakka origin. As such, there are hundreds of Hakka old villages in Shenzhen alone. Most of them came to Shenzhen during the Qing dynasty, or even from an older time. Both the Gankeng Ancient Hakka Townlet and the Dapeng Fortress were Hakka settlement areas, and I have told their stories.
The Hehu Xinju, however, is quite distinct from the other two, in the fact that it is a walled village. The walled village is a feature for Hakka architecture. It serves, first and foremost, defensive purposes. It also prescribes an approximate square or rectangular layout for the village’s residential life.
Hehu Xinju, meaning “crane lake villa,” is one of the best preserved Hakka “wai” (walled) villages in Shenzhen. Of the Luo clan of Hakka people, the walled village consists of two wall enclosures. There lie three main courts in the main axis separated by courtyards, and two rows of houses on the side. The ancestral hall lies at the very center of the whole village.
In terms of defensive structures, both walls feature multistory diaolou’s and watchtowers. While the inner wall is a square, the outer wall is shaped like a trapezoid. The walled village exhibits a well-planned layout that typifies a few ancient architectural styles, primarily the fudi (mansion) style of China’s central plains. It is no surprise that it took decades for the Luo villagers to complete the construction of this residential complex.
As one of the most significant Hakka walled villages in China, Hehu Xinju spans a large area of 25,000 square meters. There are more than 300 chambers in the village. Construction for Hehu Xinju began during the Qianlong reign of the Qing dynasty (1736-1795), and it was completed during the 22nd year of the Jiaqing reign (1817), apparently the joint effort of three generations for five decades.
The Luo’s was a prominent lineage in China’s history, tracing back to the Luo State of the pre-Qin dynasty period. The Luo’s of Hehu Xinju are the direct descendants of the Luo’s from Dongmen, Xingning in northeastern Guangdong. The founder of Hehu Xinju is Luo Ruifeng. He is the 16th generation of the Luo’s ancestors.
The migration of the Hakka people into now Shenzhen peaked during the Qianlong and Jiaqing reigns of the Qing dynasty. Luo Ruifeng came to Longgang District during that time as well, in the 23rd year of the Qianlong reign (1758).
Luo Reuifeng was known for his keen foresights, diligence, frugality and business acumen. At first, he engaged in farming and commerce. He slowly grew his business as a small vendor to the firm of Ruihe Trading Firm. At its peak, the Ruihe Trading Firm had hundreds of stores.
The Luo’s became very prominent in Shenzhen during the Qing dynasty. But even as early as the late Qing dynasty, during the Guangxu period, a number of the Luo’s went abroad to capture the rising wave of migrant opportunities. Some of them ended up in Southeast Asia, and some went as far as the Americas. Out of the estimated 8,600 descendants of Luo’s, about 5,600 remain in China, and the rest are living in Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, the United States, Jamaica, Canada, the United Kingdom, France, the Netherlands, Suriname, Tahiti and New Zeeland.
Finally, amongst all these descendants there were famous persons. The Luo’s proud lineage has continued into the modern times. A descendant Luo Qiuhang, who was an avid supporter of the 1911 Revolution that overthrew the Qing dynasty, had lived in Hehu Xinju. During the 1930s and 1940s, he led the effort to establish a logistics company, helping Longgang’s economic development. His former residence is also featured at Hehu Xinju (more below).
Allow for about two hours to walk through Hehu Xinju Walled Village.
Today, all of Hehu Xinju is turned into a museum that showcases both the history of the Luo’s, the walled village architecture and Hakka culture, as well as the latest creations of contemporary artists. Perhaps because of the international character of the Luo family descendants, all the key exhibits on site come in Chinese and English. That makes touring very easy for international visitors.
I think a walk through the whole area is worthwhile. The ambience is serene, the structures are well-preserved and the exhibits are mostly engaging. I will point out some of the more prominent features to watch out for in this tour.
Upon arrival, you will see a beautiful halfmoon lake right outside of the main entrance into Hehu Xinju. Traditionally, it is considered an exceedingly good fengshui for Chinese structures to “sit against the mountain, facing water.” The half-moon lake serves this purpose.
The inner “ring” enclosed by the inner wall was the first section that was built, then the villagers slowly added the surrounding structures that were enclosed by the outer wall. At the watchtower of the inner enclosure, the village established the private school for its children. Named Yiyan School, it has the meaning of “the elders provide for their descendants, much like the swallow protects is young with its wings.” Beginning in the third generation of the Luo’s in Longgang, Shenzhen, some of the descendants became very achieved in scholarship and served as government officials.
And the Daifu Residence plaque of the Qing dynasty is the perfect witness to the Luo’s emphasis on erudition. “Daifu” was a title for scholars that served as civilian government officials during the imperial times of China. The daifu that earned this plaque was Luo Zhaoxiong, third-generation grandson of the Luo family. He was the Minister of Confucian Education of Guangzhou. The plaque was bestowed upon him in the 14th year of the Daogguang reign (1834) in recognition of his efforts on disaster relief after a flood.
Glass was used Chinese architecture only during the mid-Qing dynasty. Before then, thin paper or woven yarn were used as the medium of light transmissions in windows. In a room in Hehu Xinju, people discovered a set of rare Qing-era sea mirror windows. They turned out to be the largest and best-preserved sea mirror windows in Shenzhen.
These pieces are called sea mirror because they are actually thinned oyster shells installed amidst the diamon-shaped wooden frame. “When they are dusted off, it looks as if the shells like fish scales shinning quietly in the aged wooden frames and some rainbow colors show. The unique ice cracks on the shells make each shell different from others.”
Luo Qiuhang is a prominent figure of the Luo’s in Hehu Xinju during the modern times. In one of the chambers, his former residence is restored. As the leader of the family during the modern times, Luo lived with wealth and his residence was notably more lavish than the commoners’ home.
The Back Yard features a nicely landscaped garden space lined with old trees. There you will find the Old Well, as well as the Dragon Hall of the Outer Wall, which was a watch tower.
The Dragon Hall is completely dilapidated by now, but it came with a fascinating history during World War II, when the Japanese forces tried to annihilate the people of Hehu Xinju by burning it down. The villagers escaped unscathed due to the design of the Dragon Hall, which provided ample access for escape.
All touring at the museums is done on the ground level and there is no tourist access to the towers.
Descriptions on site at Hehu Xinju.
Baidu.com, Shenzhen Hakka Walled Villages (Chin).
Sheung Shui Heung, also known as Sheung Shui Wai, is traditionally of the Liu surname. As a large centuries-long settlement area for indigenous villagers, Sheung Shui Heung has a few heritage sites worthy of visiting. I have discussed the stately Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral …
For all of my friends that visit Hong Kong for the first time, I always suggest the Peak as a must-do itinerary. Even for friends that have been there before, I would suggest visiting it again. The Peak offers a whole lot of things to …
Chenpi, the dried mandarin peel, is a specialty of Xinhui for as far as history remembers. In this part of China, the chenpi is so well-known that it is considered one of the three treasures of Guangdong, alongside with old ginger and straw.
At first glance, these three things seem rather insignificant to be called the treasures of a province long reputed for its prosperity and vibrant cultural life. Yet all three have been critical ingredients and materials in Cantonese culture, especially in its cuisine. Chenpi is particularly known for its fragrance. Adding just a small piece of chenpi introduces a unique flavor and aroma in tea and food. Chenpi also comes handy in Chinese medicinal application.
The Chenpi Village of Xinhui is a trading market for tourists. I have no other way to know which stores in Xinhui are good, or highly reputed, so I decided to visit the touristy Chenpi Village in search for the secrets to chenpi. I did learn a lot.
I looked around when the stores were just opening their doors. After visiting a couple stores, I went into the mall. There, a lady started telling me about the specific qualities of chenpi. In her I sensed a genuine, learned appreciation for the treasure of Guangdong. The staff at the other two stores were simply too eager to make deals. She was rather eager to share about the knowledge and expertise that makes her products special.
Her store’s name is Chen Lao Guo.
Photo above: These are peel pieces.
Chenpi, its literal meaning in Chinese is “aged skin.” The first order of judging the value of a piece of chenpi is the ability to discern between the fragrance, color, appearance and texture of the dried mandarin peel. In terms of fragrance, the good Xinhui chenpi is not supposed to be fruity. If you smell a strong, unitary smell that reminds you of the sweetness and sourness of fruit, beware. It is supposed to smell aged, “chen,” with hints of citrus, but a complex and rather subtle aroma. The older the dried mandarin peel, the chen fragrance is the more pronounced than the fruitiness.
Perhaps it is an obvious point, but the more aged the peel is, the darker the color as well. In terms of aging, it is not uncommon for a Cantonese grandmother to keep her chenpi for a lifetime, meaning 40 to 50 years. Such old chenpi is what the Cantonese people think of as miraculous cure for lung and stomach deceases.
Photo above: These are whole peels.
As you would expect, the more aged the peel is, the more expensive it gets. There is also a common distinction between whole peel and peel pieces. The whole peel refers to the dried peel of a whole mandarin, in three attached but distinct pieces. For cooking and self-use, the peel pieces would do – you do not typically need a whole peel. In fact, it is better to break the peel into smaller pieces if you use it for cooking, otherwise the bitterness will overwhelm your food.
In terms of medicinal quality, there is no difference between the whole peel or the peel pieces. The whole peel is for the sake of gift-giving usually. When you buy chenpi as a gift, whole pieces are simply better looking, as it is indeed more expensive even if they are from the same batch of mandarins and aged for the same amount of time.
If you do buy chenpi in Xinhui, consider only the peels that have aged for over 10 years. That is the time that the medicinal qualities have formed, and it will be worthwhile to make chenpi infused tea with those.
Photo above: This is a whole green peel.
The most sought after chenpi is the red peel. The less common kind is the green peel. Please be careful about these. Green peels come from mandarins that were not yet ripe, thus the green color. Even after years of aging, green peels are a world’s difference in terms of its medicinal qualities. Green peels only serve to dispel excessive heat in the body. It has no use in stomach decongestion and lung nurture, unlike the red chenpi. In fact, the green peels have such a strong heat dispelling effect that they can cause some problems if your body is already cold in nature. The green peel, even when aged, remains a dark green color.
Ultimately, the best judge of the quality of chenpi is to get a taste of it. At the Chen Lao Guo store I enjoyed the chenpi tea making the most. The lady Ms. Hua demonstrated the technique of “Four Time Infusion” to render both the essence and medicinal qualities of chenpi. I tried a full piece of chenpi from the year 2014, meaning that it has had full ten years of aging.
She said for the chenpi flavors to be rendered one has to boil the whole piece of it for four separate times. On the fourth time, you will really taste the aged, bitterness that remains in your palate, and this bitter first impression will linger and turn into a herbal sweetness. True to her word, I only noticed the strength of the chenpi after she boiled it for the fourth time.
The chenpi water from the first time of boiling is for cleansing purposes. You do not retain that water. After that, boil the water with the chenpi for four separate times, five minutes each session. For all four times you would retain the water, drink it and slowly garner the sensation that the chenpi flavors are being infused in increasing intensity, until the herbal sweetness finally lingers in your palate.
But don’t take me wrong here, the four time infusion does not limit you to boiling the chenpi for only four times. You can certainly boil it for as much as ten times, throughout the day, drink it as if it is water, until you cannot taste the chenpi again. It is advised that you drink chenpi infused tea throughout the day.
Xinhui’s chenpi has been named in the ancient medical scrolls of China, the preeminent Bencao Gangmu (The Compendium of Materia Medica), as the very best in its medicinal qualities. Xinhui is thus properly the home of chenpi. The author Li Shizhen, one of the four Great Doctors of China, praised the chenpi of Xinhui, naming the health effects of casting out the heat and dampness in the body, decongestion and soothing one’s internal running of qi. As such chenpi is particularly good for the stomach and the lungs. The inner lining of the mandarin’s skin bears medicinal qualities.
The simplest way to enjoy chenpi is to simply drink it as it has been infused in boiling water, as discussed above. If you have a whole bottle of hot water infused with chenpi, consider making a pot of pu’er tea with it. The same can be done with a pot of hand brewed coffee.
Another suggestion for using chenpi in cuisine is to put a small piece of chenpi (presoaked) into steamed spareribs with black bean sauce. Likewise, in almost any kind of Chinese soup a small piece of chenpi will enhance the overall flavor profile of the soup, with additional health benefits.
Perhaps it is now the time to wrap things up by discussing the storage of chenpi. At the store, you see the display of thousands of chenpi in glass jars. However, Ms. Hua told me that when they let the peel age, they mostly keep them in burlap sacks. They must keep the general environment very dry, of course, as air does seep into burlap sacks easily.
Once you bought your chenpi, for home use it is the easiest to keep these treasures stored in air-tight metal containers. Keep them in a cool and dark place, and let them age further.
At the Chenpi Village I finally tried chenpi coffee, which I did not have a chance to do so in my last trip to Jiangmen. Because of its touristy nature, the Chenpi Village has all sorts of chenpi by products to offer. Besides the famous chenpi coffee, there is chenpi ice cream (as in ice cream scoops, not soft serve), and chenpi candies.
Surely, the Chenpi Village’s main objective is the retail of chenpi, but they do actually produce them in the villages right by the retail area. Although I had hoped for taking cultural photography at the Chenpi Village, the people there said the drying season has long been over. They do natural sunlight drying on site, and that usually takes place between September and around the time of the winter solstice.
In this three-day, two-night trip, I tried three restaurants. After the heaviest day of sightseeing on Day 2, I decided to treat myself at Daxia Tanbao Restaurant. It serves Malaysian cuisine and offers a few significant strengths in its dining experience. Daxia Tanbao (Daxia Charcoal …
After seeing the Lvmei Ecological Park and the Shijian Park, I was geared up for some historic sightseeing. The Yamen Fort came into mind. The Qing dynasty era old fort stands beautifully restored at the mouth of the Pearl River. It has a proud history …
I had to leave and return to Xinhui in order to have a proper meal. I checked the Gaode Map App and realized that I could in fact walk from Lvmei Ecological Park to Shijian Park, which was what I intended to see next. The walk would have taken about 45 minutes. However, I must have food before I do this kind of walk. The final decision was to call a driver to take me back to Xinhui.
The Lvmei Ecological Park, despite being a hot tourist destination, was not a kind of location for which drivers were readily available. I had to wait about half an hour before being picked up.
It took about 20 minutes of a drive from Xinhui to Shijian Park. I was really hoping that I got to see the very last bit of red foliage by the reservoir. It turned out to be a good decision.
The day of the visit was January 24, 2025. There was no admissions fee to enter the reservoir.
There does not seem to be much information about the Shijian Reservoir, except that it cost 20 million yuan to build, and that a scenic area was established to make it a beautiful site for leisure.
I think the best thing to do at Shijian Park is to do the around-the-reservoir loop walk. The instructions say it takes 50 minutes. However, given the beautiful scenery, allow for about a little less than two hours for both photography and a leisurely stop to have chenpi tea at the tea house.
About 10 minutes after you start the walk at the entrance to the Shijian Park, you will come across the river boardwalk. The sign calls it “Woodon Path.” This is the scenic walking route that takes you to along the reservoir’s bank, the grassy open area, with some river views and the tea house by the reservoir.
The tea house is surrounded by bald cypress, the foliage of which remained red when I went. I was exceedingly lucky to have come at the crossover moment between winter and spring. In this trip I managed to see a sea of purple tabebuia flowers and red foliage.
The bald cypress views are usually exceedingly beautiful because this type of tree can grow submerged in the water. As such, a lot of the bald cypress views are also waterfront views.
After visiting the tea house, go on further and the path will take you to the dam. Walk across and you will be back to the entrance of the Shijian Park.
As said in the last entry, if you plan on calling Didi car, be prepared that you have to wait a little before a driver is nearby to pick up your order.
The day was becoming a little bit chilly as dusk will befall in two hours. I hadn’t decided on this when I planned my itinerary, but I wanted to see the Yamen Fort in the southern part of Xinhui. In my last trip to Jiangmen last year, I had not had the chance to visit this old fort. I finally get to do so.
At Lvmei Ecological Park (Green Beauty Ecological Park—in Mandarin Chinese, “lv” is pronounced in l as the consonant combined with the French vowel “u”) in Shantouping, Xinhui, a flourish of purple tabebuia flowers has drawn the curtain for the spring season with a colorful song …