Vignettes of the World
I spent a delightful 1.5 hours at the Hong Kong Railway Museum in Tai Po Market. I have been there once, but I did not study the museum exhibits last time. This time, I allowed myself a leisurely walk in the museum and the train …
The Temple Hill is known locally as Tsz Wan Shan. It acquired this name due to the Kwun Yam Temple in the area. This day we climbed up to the Digital TV Transmission Tower at the peak of Temple Hill via the Shatin Pass Road. …
Update: As of December 1, 2022, Haw Par Music will cease operation. Haw Par Mansion will be returned to the Hong Kong government on this day. Haw Par Mansion will remain open for public visits, and activities already planned will continue to be held. For details, please see government press release here.
For older generations of Hong Kongers, the Haw Par Mansion was a treasured childhood memory. Its Tiger Palm Garden, accessible for free by the public throughout its 60-year existence, was the first theme park in Hong Kong. It came before the much more benign Lai Yuen and Ocean Park came into existence. Lai Yuen and Ocean Park were more “benign” because the Tiger Balm Garden featured imageries of hell.
The owner had intended it to serve an educational purpose to the visitors. Live a virtuous and benevolent life, lest you end up in hell. The Tiger Balm Garden was demolished in 2004 to make way for high rises in the area.
The Corner Tower on Tai Hang Road. The residential development behind it was where the Tiger Balm Garden used to be
Entrepreneur Aw Boon Haw built the Haw Par Mansion for his second wife Tan Kyi Kyi. While neither of them was from Hong Kong, they loved it here. In 1932, Aw Boon Haw established Tiger Balm’s second largest production facility in Hong Kong. The Haw Par Mansion was their home in Hong Kong.
The mansion, along with the public park, began construction in 1933 and completed in 1936. The park was open to the public for a good sixty years. But the Mansion remained the private residence for the Aw family until the 1990s.
The word Haw means “tiger” and Par means “leopard.” They came from the names of Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, who were brothers. Together they inherited their father’s small herbal shop in Rangoon, and founded the Tiger Balm enterprise in Southeast Asia. Although the younger brother’s name appears on the mansion, ownership of Hong Kong’s Haw Par Mansion belonged only to the older brother, Aw Boon Haw. “Boon” means gentle.
During the 1990s, the owner sold the whole property, including both the public garden and the private mansion, to Cheung Kong Holdings. The Hong Kong Government then stepped in to negotiate with Cheung Kong Holdings to preserve the Haw Par Mansion. The mansion came under government management and ownership in 2001. Its history and architectural features were the outstanding merits that resulted in a Grade 1 Historic Building protection in 2009 under the Antiques and Monuments Ordinance.
For a somewhat convoluted history of the Haw Par Mansion’s sale to Cheung Kong and the subsequent government takeover of the property, Wikipedia has an entry here. I shall not delve into this history.
In 2019, the Haw Par Mansion opened its doors to the public for the first time. It now serves as both a museum and the venue for music training and events for Haw Par Music (see below). Free public tours of the site are available, with a choice in Cantonese or English, but advanced booking is required. I highly recommend this tour, as the tour guides are well-versed in all aspects of the Haw Par Mansion. It also allows access to rooms in the mansion that are not open to public.
The Main Hall at the Haw Par Mansion now serves as the museum displaying exhibitions
Despite the demolition of the public garden, the Haw Par Mansion and its private courtyards were preserved. I joined a guided English tour. On that day, both the Cantonese and the English groups were fully booked. Then we had a 1.5-hour conversation about the history, appreciation and features of the Haw Par family, the Haw Par Mansion and the Tiger Balm Garden.
On the ground floor entrance, a few signature items are on display. These were all original items at the Tiger Balm Garden.
Throughout the tour, we saw a number of other items that the government managed to salvage from the Tiger Balm Garden demolition. The tour guide told us that Cheung Kong gave the government just three weeks to take anything it could before the demolition. I vaguely remember that there were 200 such pieces, many of which were statues and figurines. Some of them are still in storage. The restoration of the Haw Par Mansion continues to this day. It is sad, however, that the demolition did not spare the beautiful Tiger Pagoda.
Original figurines at the Tiger Balm Garden: The Weaver and the Cowboy from Chinese folklore
We took the elevator up a few floors to reach the courtyard area of the Haw Par Mansion. Right at the entrance lies a re-created marble mural featuring the Ten Courts of Hell. This was a tribute to the theme of hell at the Tiger Balm Garden. The recreated imageries were modeled after the originals in the Tiger Balm Garden.
We then proceeded to the beautiful front yard, the design of which comports with the general style of the Chinese eclectic in the mansion.
See below for more.
The building, in its exterior and interior, shows the distinct influence of the Chinese eclectic style. This means that the design has fused prominent elements of eastern and western traditions—and not only Chinese and western, but Chinese, Burmese, Indian, Italian and other western themes that Aw Boon Haw himself had appreciated in his life. Our tour guide pointed us to many special features of the building to illustrate the Chinese eclectic style.
Views of Haw Par Mansion at the formerly private garden
In the formerly private courtyard of the mansion, we saw a beautiful fountain. This was the first illustration of the Chinese eclectic style on the tour. The Romanesque fountain would keep the water flowing on the main axis of the mansion. The Chinese element was the statue on top, showing a boy holding a koi. In Cantonese culture, both water and koi are symbols for wealth.
Of the beautiful mansion, I liked the Moon Gate the most. The Moon Gate is the circular main gate in the front and back of the mansion. Although the front moon gate faces the garden, the back moon gate was actually where the Aw’s entered their home. Both feature beautiful stained glass.
Again, there is that mixture of eastern and western influences here. In Chinese culture, the full moon represents unity. But note that the original creator of these bird patterns was Italian. The stained glass shows western imageries. The panes came from the stained glass decoration specialist Tolleri in Florence, Italy, and it is no longer feasible to find the same firm to replace them now. The best that the government can do in terms of preservation is to find artists to mend the paint the best they can.
The moon gates as viewed from the interior of the Haw Par Mansion. The tigers on the left are original patterns. The right photo shows the patterns on the back moon gate.
The only other moon gate in Hong Kong is in the Cheung Chau Hospital. That is because the hospital was founded with the donation of the Aw brothers.
Much of the furniture on show in the Haw Par Mansion now were the original pieces, and they were donations from the Aw family.
The interiors of the main hall and the dining hall were surely a show of wealth for the Aw family. For there was no lack of gold in the décor, serving as the auspicious token to bring in more wealth. The ceiling is gilded in real gold.
The glistening gold of the Dining Hall
This bathroom color-themed in green and pink shows the most luxurious in those times. All pieces in the master bathroom are original. The bidet is rarely seen in Hong Kong. The aged green color gave a surreal impression. All the features belong to a generation bygone, yet they remain an evergreen classic in our times. The master bathroom is a glimpse of Mr. Aw Boon Haw’s taste, for everything here had to meet his requirements.
Both the first and second wives of Aw Boon Haw did not bear any biological child. Therefore the first two wives have both adopted children. The adopted daughter Sally Aw Sian in Hong Kong eventually became the owner of seven newspapers, including the best-known Sing Tao Newspaper and the Standard. She has told many interesting stories about her mother’s lifestyle in the Mansion.
For example, there is a family vault inside the master bedroom of the mansion. Its original use was to keep the family’s valuables. However, in the 1940s or so, banks have risen to become the main keeper of family heirloom. So then what did her mother keep in this family vault? Sally Aw said common items, like toilet paper. It was a very humorous point on this tour, as toilet paper was much sought-after during the early times of the pandemic. Mrs. Aw certainly had the foresight of its value.
Photos: the family vault in the master bedroom is fire-proof.
The Haw Par Mansion was revitalized under the auspices of the Hong Kong Government’s Revitalising Historic Buildings Through Partnership Scheme, the Aw Boon Haw Foundation and the Haw Par Music Foundation Limited. It is the first music school in Asia specializing in chamber music.
Besides musical training, Haw Par Music also provides music therapy. There are social initiatives, including the provision of scholarship to those in need to pursue musical training. The Haw Par Mansion serves as the venue for free concerts.
These two pieces show the Burmese influence in the Chinese eclectic style at Haw Par Mansion
I visited the Stone House Family Garden a week after my tour at the Haw Par Mansion. The Stone House Family Garden was a tenement for the refugee settlers in Hong Kong after WWII. The Haw Par Mansion, on the other hand, was home to one of Southeast Asia’s richest families. It goes without saying that there is a stark contrast between the two. I would say that the same area in the Stone House that gave home to thirty people at one time, would make only the bathroom in the master bedroom at Haw Par Mansion. This is the portrait of Hong Kong. Space is a direct measure of one’s wealth. While it does remain true today, it was true to a much larger extent back then.
That is not to say that the Aw family has made no commitment to the welfare of Hong Kong. Quite the contrary. Besides this beautiful building and the public park that existed before demolishment, the Aw Boon Haw family has made quite a number of charitable donations in Hong Kong. As mentioned above, the Cheung Chau Hospital was the result of an Aw Boon Haw donation. There are also schools named after Mrs. Aw Boon Haw in Hong Kong. And finally, there is Haw Par Music now.
The address of Haw Par Music is 15A Tai Hang Road.
The green top minibus Route 21M runs from Lan Fong Road (Lee Theatre 1) in Causeway Bay. Get off at the Serenade stop, where you will see the sign 15A and Haw Par’s trademark tiger just a few steps ahead. Otherwise, buses 11, 41A and 63 also stops at the Serenade stop.
The Free Public Tour of Haw Par Music
Descriptions on-site.
The website of Haw Par Music
The Wikipedia on Tiger Balm Garden (Hong Kong).
On this beautiful autumn day I took a walk from Chuen Lung Village to the Shing Mun Reservoir via the Lung Mun Country Trail, ending at the Pineapple Dam. I have previously walked part of the Lung Mun Country Trail when I became lost in …
I have hiked the trail between Wu Kau Tang and Sam A Tsuen Village for three times at least, and I finally had a chance to take my camera with me for some nice photographs on this trail. The trail is properly named the Double …
The red walk of Tai Po Kau is an easy 3km walk in the Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve area. The Tai Po Kau Nature Trail offers five routes of choice. Four are demarcated in the colors red, blue, brown and yellow. The fifth walk is the Tai Po Kau Nature Trail.
The red walk is the shortest at 3km, then came the blue walk, at 4km and with some upward steps and therefore some aerial views. The brown walk is at 7km, and it will lead you to an ascent of 500+ meters. The yellow walk is at 10 km, quite a bit of climbing but you will be rewarded with beautiful aerial views.
The Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve was originally known as the Tai Po Kau Plantation. It prides in a 460-hectare area with more than 100 species of plants. It takes up the heavily-wooded expanse between the eastern slope of Grass Hill and Tai Po Road.
As its name suggests, the Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve was a result of both the area’s natural endowment and a planned afforestation program. In 1926, the Hong Kong Government began afforestation, and planted the Chinese Red Pine (Pinus massoniana) there. Because of the dominance of this tree, the area became known as Tsung Tsai Yuen, meaning Pine Garden in Chinese.
We began at the Tai Po Kau Garden. First, we passed by a beautiful pavilion before heading up the slope. The slope would be the most “rigorous” part of this trail. Once we reached the red walk proper, the walk was very easy. Follow the clear signs for the red walk throughout this trail. You won’t get lost as they are very clear throughout.
Photos: above, at the Tai Po Kau Garden. Below: clear signs line the trail.
As we began walking, we noticed a very nice breeze. The day was still somewhat warm, by autumn standards. There was a little bit of sweating even on this easy trail. We thought this trail would be a perfect choice for the summer, because the woods provide ample shades. Yet on a rainy day it would certainly be too humid to be enjoyable, as the foliage would trap plenty of dampness within the area.
We also passed by a number of streams with walkways and bridges. They present a very soothing and beautiful scenery. The red walk does not present open aerial views, unlike the yellow walk. Therefore we mostly appreciated the funny-looking rocks and enjoyed every breath of fresh air enabled by the abundance of trees. Finally, bloggers have noted that between April and August, fireflies can be spotted on the red walk as well.
These are the photos on the way.
Some interesting sightings:
The red walk is the shortest of all four and it is 3km in length. While the route itself would take less than one hour on normal walking speed, we as a group proceeded jovially and slowly with many picture taking opportunities. The red walk is a loop and you will head back on the same slope that leads you to the Tai Po Kau Garden.
Including the time to walk to and from the trail itself, the journey took us two hours.
We went by private car and we parked at the Tai Po Kau Garden parking lot. On that day, which was a weekday morning, we had to park illegally as all the marked spots were taken. Therefore plan to go early.
By public transport, buses 72, 72A, 73A, 74A and green top minibus 28K run on this section of Tai Po Road. The stop is Tsung Tsai Yuen.
Agriculture, Fisheries and Conversation Department, Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve.
Timhiking.com, Tai Po Kau Nature Trail (Brown Walk).
I spent a delightful afternoon at the Central Library reading one of the few copies of Sunset Survivors available in Hong Kong’s public libraries. A good friend recommended this book to me and I enjoyed reading the stories very much. Here is what I took …
With more than 70 years of history on its back, the Better ‘Ole is a rare gem in the New Territories. It is the oldest British pub with continuous operation in the New Territories, and perhaps in Hong Kong. It certainly was the first in …
I stopped by the Hau Wong Temple of Kowloon City after visiting the Stone House Family Garden just across the street on Junction Road. Even when I passed by the temple, I was quite amazed at how well-kept it was. So I decided to take a look.
The Hau Wong Temple of Kowloon City has been a Declared Monument in 2014 under the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance (Cap. 53). Its long history in Kowloon City stands out amongst the many other temples in Hong Kong. According to government sources, “Hau Wong Temple was patronised by Qing officials and soldiers from the Kowloon Walled City when it [they] guarded the territories between 1847 and 1899.” Like the Stone House Family Garden next door, Hau Wong Temple’s history is closely tied with the Walled City of Kowloon, only that it goes even further back in time.
This tie with the Walled City of Kowloon has enriched the heritage of the temple. There are some important relics from the Qing Dynasty still gracing the temple grounds. This following incense burner was a gift from the first Assistant Magistrate of Kowloon, Xu Wenshen, in 1847.
This wooden plaque that hangs in the forefront of the Main Hall dates to the 6th year of the Guangxu Reign (1880) during the Qing Dynasty. It was a gift from the Qing military vice general, Lai Zhenbian, who guarded the Walled City of Kowloon. In Chinese it means “when you have reached the state of pure sincerity, you will have foresights into the future.”
There is one main hall at the temple. It was the original structure on the temple ground. The side chambers have existed in a later time. They consist of the Buddha Hall, the Lung Wah hall, and the Luohans Hall.
Of all the side halls, I was most amazed by the Luohans Hall. It felt like a grotto inside, with the 18 Luohan (the eighteen guardians of the Buddha) statues. They were the enlightened students of Buddha, and have reached nirvana. However, their role in the religion was to teach Buddhism to the common people’s enlightenment. Therefore the earth was their proper dwelling. In Hindu Buddhism, there are 16 Luohans only. The Chinese adaptation of Hindu Buddhism has an additional two more.
This Luohans chamber in Hau Wong Temple recreates a scene of the Luohans on earth, surrounded mostly by mountains. This comports with their mission as the Buddha has given them. They would live on earth but sustain their living as provided by believers and nature. In a distance, however, there is a scene of heavens in this recreation.
Outside the Luohans Hall and the Buddha Hall, you will see the Shiwan Ceramic Figurines. There is a good chance that this depicts a scene of the 18 Luohans. But I have no source to verify this (I am poorly trained in Chinese traditions).
The Stone Tablet of Hau Wong Temple lies to the right of the main hall. This might be the oldest stone tablet of all on site. The carvings are no longer visible.
The backyard remains closed on the day of my visit. I believe that is where the stone inscription of the Chinese character, “goose” lies. The special feature of this inscription is that the character was brushed in one stroke by a calligraphy master. The inscription dates 1888, and it is a very special relic.
There are a few interpretations of who Hau Wong was. I have previously written on perhaps the most credible interpretation of Hau Wong’s history in the Hau Wong Temple of Tung Chung. According to the Wikipedia, a late Qing scholar believed that Hau Wong was the famous general Yang Liangjie. He defended the Song Dynasty’s last emperors against Yuan Dynasty forces in the Tai O area of Hong Kong. Other interpretations included one villager by the name of Yang that healed Song Emperor Dai Bing of his insomnia.
Besides worshipping Hau Wong, the temple also serves other deities. There are, namely, Kwun Yum, To Tei (Earth God), All Saints, White Tiger and Fuk Tak Kung (Earth God). These gods are either from the folkloric culture of southern China or adapted into Chinese Buddhism from their Hindu origins.
Believers of Hau Wong celebrate the Hau Wong Festival every year on the 16th of the sixth month on the lunar calendar every year.
According to descriptions on-site, the Hau Wong Temple was built in 1730, during the Yongzheng Reign of the Qing Dynasty. Before the construction of a proper temple ground, there was a site of reverence for Hau Wong in Kowloon City. It stood in a thatched cottage as early as the late Song and early Yuan Dynasty.
Also in great contrast to the other temples in Hong Kong, the Hau Wong Temple of Kowloon City has undergone many renovations in its history. The latest renovation took place in 2006, costing 4 million dollars. Before that, the temple had undergone five renovations in 1822, 1859, 1879, 1917 and 1988 respectively.
Descriptions on-site at the Hau Wong Temple of Kowloon City.
Hau Wong Temple, Declared Monuments in Hong Kong, Antiques and Monuments Office.
The Wikipedia on Hau Wong Temple (Chin).
The Painting of the 18 Luohans (Chin), Badu.com.
A friend of ours works at the Xiqu Centre in West Kowloon and from time to time she invites us to special events at the cultural hub of West Kowloon. This day we got tickets to the M+ Appreciation Day, which allowed us a sneak …