Vignettes of the World
The sandstorm cleared up a bit but we still wanted to save the touring for another brighter day. In the afternoon we decided to visit a teahouse in Bukhara. It seemed to us that the Silkroad Teahouse, which is on the way to the Kalon …
Although Yuet Wo as a brand name may not readily ring a bell with most Hong Kong people, most Hong Kong people have had its soy sauce in one form or another. Currently based in Kwu Tung Village in Sheung Shui, Yuet Wo supplies its …
The Kam Tsin Village is a village close to the northwestern edge of the Fanling Golf Course in Sheung Shui. Kam Tsin, in Cantonese, means money. Indeed, my first impression of Kam Tsin Village was that this is a well to do village. From what I could observe, the houses were well-maintained, and there was no rundown squatter homes. Not least, there is a grand façade marking the entrance to the village as well.
The Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall celebrates Hau Mei-fung, who was a student of the Imperial Academy. The Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall was built in the late 18th century, in around the late reign of the Yongzheng and early reign of Qianlong emperors of the Qing dynasty. Like so many other ancestral halls in the New Territories villages, the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall served chiefly the purpose of providing a place for family conferences (besides ancestral worship) for the descendants of Hau Mei-fung in the village.
It is said that Sir Robert Hotung had once lived in this ancestral hall. Sir Robert Hotung is generally a celebrated figure in this part of the New Territories. Indeed, the kindergarten in the village (just a stone’s throw away from the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall) is named after him. Unlike so, so many other village kindergartens, the Kam Tsin Village Ho Tung Kindergarten is still running. Judging from its appearance, I think it can be safely assumed that it is also in good hands.
Over its long history, the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall was once a private study, a mill, a candle and rattan workshop. In 2000, its roof collapsed after years of disrepairs, and with money from the Hong Kong Government, the villagers restored the Ancestral Hall to its former glory.
The Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall is a Declared Monument since 2019.
Photo: the two red columns by the side chambers are the single most precious material in the whole structure, of red sandstone.
According to the descriptions on site, “The ancestral hall is a typical Qing vernacular two-hall three-bay building with an internal courtyard flanked by two side chambers… The rear hall is fronted by a porch with humpbacked roof, which is a feature rarely seen in traditional Chinese buildings in Hong Kong.”
Needless to say, the wood carving decorations on the structural timberwork are beautiful. They typically depict auspicious objects, such as animals and flowers, with auspicious wordings. Some show famous folklores in traditional Chinese culture as well.
The villager there told me that the internal eaves columns made of red sandstone was the single most precious structure in the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall. They were very expensive during the time that the hall was built. The lattice window on the side chambers show the auspicious patterns of ancient Chinese copper cash made in porcelain. This restored feature was the work of Beijing craftsmen, as I was told.
On this ninth day of the Lunar New Year in 2024, I visited the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall and ran into the preparations for the Lantern-Lighting Ritual. I asked about this ritual and the villagers there told me that it is an occasion to celebrate the newly-born in the village.
Typically, the Lantern-Lighting Ritual takes place annually for all the children born in the past year. Because of the pandemic, the Lantern-Lighting Ritual had ceased for a few years. This would be the first time since the pandemic that the ceremony is held again in Kam Tsin. They are celebrating the births of 16 children born in those years.
It is interesting to note that only the male members of the descendants born are celebrated in the Lantern-Lighting Ritual. Although this fact suggests that preferences are given to boys (and certainly, there is such perception even now), the plaque displayed at the Ancestral Hall has presented a narrative that is inclusive of women’s role in the Mei Fung clan of the Hau’s. In all descriptions of critical, revered ancestors, there is a mention of their spouses’ names and dates deceased.
From the Sheung Shui MTR station, get on Bus Route 76K toward Long Ping. The bus stop is in Choi Yuen Estate. Get off at the Chung Pak Long Station.
After getting off, keep on going (toward the Yuen Long direction, meaning the direction that your bus heads off), and within ten seconds you come to Kam Tsin Road.
You will see the enormous façade that marks the entrance to the village. Go through this part of the village. At the first road on your left, enter the village and keep on going on this road.
Photo: On the first road to your left after passing the village entrance, you will enter the village. Keep on going on this paved road.
At this point, make a right.
At this point, make a right, and you will see a pond.
Walk pass the pond.
On your left, before you arrive at the public toilets and the Kam Tsing Village Ho Tung Kindergarten, you will see the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall.
Photo: at this point, make a left (you can see the roof of the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall on the left side of this picture)
Descriptions on site at the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall.
In the indigenous villages of Hong Kong there is this idea of the “wai,” wherein the villagers built their villages surrounded by a brick wall. “Wai” means a girdle, and these villages are usually referred to as “Wai villages,” or “walled villages.” These walls were …
The Signal Tower in Tsim Sha Tsui has an inseverable relationship with the Former Marine Police Headquarters (now 1881 Heritage). The small hill of Blackhead Point lies in a nondescript location in the middle of Tsim Sha Tsui. To my surprise, a short walk up …
The day was foggy and there were drizzles, but the cold temperature made the hike pleasant throughout. The Hong Kong Trail Section 2 begins at the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir. Then the trail routes through Mount Kellett and Tin Wan Shan. Due to time pressure, I stopped short at the Aberdeen Reservoirs, and instead exited toward Peel Rise in Aberdeen.
This walk will take you at least 2-3 hours to complete.
From Pok Fu Lam Road, go on Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road. You will be walking along the northern edge of the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir.
Keep on going for about 10-15 minutes, and you will noticed these structures on your right that shows windows sealed with bricks. The stairs up to Hong Kong Trail Section 2 is right after you pass these structures.
Photos: After passing the structures on the photo (left), you will see the stairs up to Hong Kong Trail Section 2 in photo (right).
In this trail, the only climbing on stairs will take place at this point for about ten minutes.
When you reach the Hong Kong Water Works Pok Fu Lam Service Reservoir No. 2 1977, take the path on your right.
You will keep walking and very soon you will come across the stairs that has a sign showing Hong Kong Trail. This is the beginning of Hong Kong Trail Section No.2.
Keep climbing up those easy stairs and you will come upon another sign, follow the direction for Chi Fu. (Go left)
Observe the signs on the path, and follow the sign for Peel Rise and Chi Fu.
At this intersection, follow the sign for Peel Rise. (Go left)
Pass the branch paths here, keep to your left.
Then at this point, you will be descending on a set of stairs. Soon you will come upon the Pavilion. The view is not overly impressive, but it is a view nonetheless.
At this point, follow the sign for Peel Rise (the path on your left).
At these stairs, keep on going on your left.
The next section of the walk will be along the very, very long catchwater. At this point, make a left.
At this point, if you feel like you have already done enough walk, then exit via the path to Tin Wan Estate.
If you keep on going on the Hong Kong Trail, there are few views along the way besides, really, the catchwater.
This part, however, is somewhat photogenic.
At this point, you may choose to exit via the paved motorway as well. However, I kept on walking along the catchwater on the left.
About 22 minutes later, I finally got to the next exit, which is the motorway that will lead you back to civilization in Aberdeen. Say goodbye to the catchwater and turn here for the exit of the trail.
About 2 hours 50 minutes later, I made it to Peel Rise.
To be sure, this walk does not offer that much of a view. Where there were views, they were of the Aberdeen Chinese Permanent Cemetery and the Aberdeen West Typhoon Shelter only.
A Panorama of the Views on Hong Kong Trail Section 2
Yet there are a few pretty good features. For example, except for the initial 10-15 minute climbing up the stairs, there is no climbing up at all after. The rest of the walk was on level grounds or gentle slopes, and of course, quite a number of stairs down. Furthermore, the trail is generously shaded throughout, making it a pretty good option for hot summer days.
The Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre stands at the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir, but hikers may easily miss it. On Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road, when you are on your way to the Hong Kong Trail Section 2, the Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre is on your left when you see the sign for the Pok Fu Lam Country Park.
Although it is a declared monument, its humble appearance is what makes it an easy miss. Formerly the Watchman’s Cottage of Pok Ful Lam Reservoir, this structure was built in 1860-1863. It is contemporaneous with the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir, which is the oldest reservoir in Hong Kong.
According to descriptions on site, the former Watchman’s Cottage of Pok Fu Lam Reservoir was built in the “Neo-Classical style featuring white painted walls, triangular pediments and a pitched roof of Chinese tiles.” Like so many colonial buildings built in that era, there is a small veranda. This veranda features granite columns, giving the structure a classic look.
The group of Pok Fu Lam Reservoir structures that has the status of Declared Monuments include the four masonry bridges, the gauge and the Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre.
Descriptions on site at the Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre.
The Wikipedia on Pok Fu Lam Reservoir.
The District Office (North) is just a stone’s throw away from the Old Tai Po Police Station as both are located on the former Flagstaff Hill on Wan Tau Kok Lane. Both are also declared monuments. Now the Law Ting Pong Scout Center, the District …
The Lyab-I Hauz Square is the gathering place for the people of Bukhara and even in our first night there we had a preliminary view of the jovial atmosphere there. Locals and tourists alike sit at all the restaurants at the Lyab-I Hauz Pool for …
There was no mistake that Bukhara’s climate is that of the desert. On our second full day in Bukhara, we woke up to what seemed to be a sandstorm. We had already left the Oasis Boutique for the adventures of the day, but decided to return to our room to get our face masks.
We were amazed by how the sandstorm changed the character of Bukhara. We walked through the same streets in Bukhara for our sightseeing of the day, and only then realized what a great blessing it was that we had the sunshine of the previous day. The warmth, the charm, the brilliance of the golden shades of the desert—turned suddenly into a haziness. Strong winds greeted us by sweeping up dusts that seemed to have come from nowhere. The streets were deserted and clothed in a menacing veil of grayness. It was not just gloomy. On that day the nature of Uzbekistan spoke a language of calamities, through the droning rustles of swirling dusts.
We pressed on, as we had no time to lose for our sightseeing program of the day. Soon enough we made our way through the sandstorm to the photography gallery of Shavkat Boltayev.
An activity indoors was perfect for this weather. We found our calm again amidst the beautiful images of Uzbekistan taken by the native Bukharan photographer.
Shavkat Boltayev has Persian roots going back to generations, but his family has long settled down in Uzbekistan, specifically in Bukhara.
As an artist, Shavkat Boltayev is committed first to his hometown Bukhara and then to Uzbekistan, by taking wonderful photographs of all aspects of Uzbek life. Chiefly, he takes beautiful portraits of the Uzbek commoners, for decades documenting both the changing and static aspects of Uzbek culture.
Between tradition and modernity his lens lends a realistic angle to the truth and beauty that made Uzbekistan, and sometimes placing his camera at the crossroads of the country’s shifting socio-economic landscape.
From wedding to family portraits, from cooking to eating, from crafts-making to worshipping, Shavkat Boltayev’s photographs depict the most fundamental experiences of living and livelihood. Oftentimes the photographs are set against the iconic sceneries of Bukhara, and that shows how history comes alive and finds continuous relevance to this day.
During the mid-1980s, Shavkat Boltayev founded the first photo gallery in Bukhara, and the gallery continues to engage in the development of art and artists in Bukhara today.
The photo gallery is not very big but it showcases many facets of Uzbek life that I would have never gotten around to see on my own (let alone shooting those similar photographs myself).
There is that calming quality to Shavkat Boltayev’s photographs, perhaps because they are down to earth and realist. The photographs cover a wide variety of subject matters, but at the forefront and in the center of these photographs, the awareness of history, the appreciation of minority cultures, the interaction between humans and nature, and the passion for his subjects come through.
My friend and I spent perhaps more time there than we originally intended. Toward the end, we had to struggle with which prints and postcards to buy. There were many interesting photos there.
In the Adamdar website Shavkat Boltayev documented his journey as an artist and photographer. It is a very engaging read, please visit the website here.
I’m not the biggest techie. When I give master classes, I tell my students, don’t ask me any technical questions. I don’t even use many of the functions on my camera. For me, the most important things are the process, the situation that I’m capturing, and its framing. – Shavkat Boltayev
The address of Shavkat Boltayev’s Photo Gallery is B.Naqshband #70, Bukhara, Uzbekistan.
Descriptions on site at the Photo Gallery of Shavkat Boltayev.
The Adamdar Website, A Man from Bukhara.
The Ark of Bukhara is namely the most significant historical relic in the heritage-rich city of Bukhara. I enjoyed the walk there very much because it clearly is a unique structure. The mosque there is beautiful. It was built in a style that, at that …