Vignettes of the World
A night of thunderstorm and rain has restored Bukhara’s muffled air of the previous day into crisp, clean breezes. The morning sunlight greeted us and we enjoyed the blessing of generous good weather for this last full day in Bukhara. The day would be packed …
From the Zindan Jail we headed over to The Plov, a restaurant that has high ratings for its plov dishes. There was quite a bit of a walk to this restaurant. In that walk we went through a large area of Bukhara outside the Old …
The Zindan Jail is very close to the Ark of Bukhara and it stands for haunting memories of torture, horror and incarceration. This may have been the second saddest sightseeing I have done in this trip in Uzbekistan. The saddest being the Muynak Ship Cemetery.
It is however very much worthwhile to visit, as in every culture there are expressions of the darkest strands of human nature. Uzbekistan is no exception and the Zindan Jail keeps it all real for us as tourists.
Despite its similarity in appearance with the Ark, the Zindan jail is relatively modern as an 18th century structure. Now a museum, the Zindan Jail has the official name of The Museum of History of Law and Court System of Bukhara.
In Persian, the word “Zindan” means “dungeon.” Inside this prison is the infamous “Bug Pit,” the Fourth Cell, a space below ground that was dark, damp, infested with bugs, rodents and even snakes. Some sources say that these tortuous creatures were dropped by the Uzbeks into the pit.
Known as the “kanakhona,” the 6.5-meter deep pit was “covered with an iron grill. Accessible only via a long 6-meter rope, the Bug Pit was reserved for the least favorite” of prisoners. It is said that in those conditions prisoners only stay alive for about three days.
The Bug Pit was where the two British soldiers, Stoddart and Connolly, that angered the Emir, were kept, tortured and horrified, before they were executed in the Registan before the Ark. Other than the two famous British prisoners discussed below, the prisoners that ended up in the Zindan Jail were debtors and those that failed to practice religion. The serious offenders were thrown into the Bug Pit.
The British Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart was sent by the British Government to Bukhara on a diplomatic mission during the British invasion of Afghanistan in 1838. The intention of the British Government was simply to extend an olive branch to the Bukharan Emir, at the time Nasrulla Khan. The message carried by Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart was that the British would like the Bukharan Emir to know that the British shall not extend their campaign in Afghanistan to this part of Central Asia, that Bukhara would be safe from invasion.
Nasrulla Khan was known for his rather volatile and precarious temperaments. When Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart failed to get off his horse as he approached the Ark, and failed to bow to the Emir, Nasrulla Khan was enraged. He sent Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart to the Bug Pit.
A few years later came Captain Connolly, who was a fellow officer of Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart. He came to Bukhara intending to rescue Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart, but not with express support of the British Government. Although his effort to place Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart in better lodging met with some success, Nasrulla Khan felt free to dispose of both of them when news of the British failure to take Kabul reached Bukhara.
A total of three years passed, where Lieutenant Colonel Stoddart was kept in the Bug Pit, on and off, between 1838 to early 1842. Both men were beheaded in the Registan in front of the Ark in 1842.
Suffice to say, that the men were victims of diplomatic failures, both a fault of their own as well as the British Government’s.
At the site of the former Zindan Jail, there is now a museum with exhibits introducing the various aspects of Uzbekistan’s penal system in those times. Mannequins now standing in the bug pit convey just a taste of the horror that once took place there.
The museum contains some explanations on the court system in Bukhara, mainly showing visitors how the two streams of military and civilian criminal justice was handled separately. Needless to say, Sharia Law was the source of judicial authority in Bukhara.
There are also some exhibits of the instruments of torture.
For dinner, we went to the Old Bukhara Restaurant. We held high expectations because there were some very good reviews of its food and ambience. In order to secure a table at this exceedlingly popular restaurant, we went there quite early, around 5:30pm or so.
There were some frustrations there. The restaurant was fully closed during the afternoon, and no matter how much I pleaded they would not let us in anytime before 6pm. There was quite a bit of rudeness in between as well.
In any event, we persisted and were indeed one of the first few parties being seated up on the terrace. We were excited about our food, but half way through our dinner, the storm that had been looming all day resurfaced. Strong winds were blowing. The trees wavered, the umbrellas were falling on our table and our dining ware were all flipping. It was to a point where we thought we could be injured in this scenario, and we had to hurry up to finish everything and leave.
The food was fair, but the overall experience was terrible.
By the time we returned to the hotel, the sandstorm that menaced Bukhara for a whole day turned into a severe thunderstorm with heavy rain. Perhaps in this way the quick-tempered Nasrulla Khan haunted us from his grave through the precariousness of this weather.
Descriptions on site at the Zindan Jail.
Sophie Ibbotson, Uzbekistan, Bradt Travel Guide (2020) at 235, 240.
Atlas Obscura, The “Bug Pit” at Zindon Prison.
The sandstorm cleared up a bit but we still wanted to save the touring for another brighter day. In the afternoon we decided to visit a teahouse in Bukhara. It seemed to us that the Silkroad Teahouse, which is on the way to the Kalon …
Although Yuet Wo as a brand name may not readily ring a bell with most Hong Kong people, most Hong Kong people have had its soy sauce in one form or another. Currently based in Kwu Tung Village in Sheung Shui, Yuet Wo supplies its …
The Kam Tsin Village is a village close to the northwestern edge of the Fanling Golf Course in Sheung Shui. Kam Tsin, in Cantonese, means money. Indeed, my first impression of Kam Tsin Village was that this is a well to do village. From what I could observe, the houses were well-maintained, and there was no rundown squatter homes. Not least, there is a grand façade marking the entrance to the village as well.
The Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall celebrates Hau Mei-fung, who was a student of the Imperial Academy. The Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall was built in the late 18th century, in around the late reign of the Yongzheng and early reign of Qianlong emperors of the Qing dynasty. Like so many other ancestral halls in the New Territories villages, the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall served chiefly the purpose of providing a place for family conferences (besides ancestral worship) for the descendants of Hau Mei-fung in the village.
It is said that Sir Robert Hotung had once lived in this ancestral hall. Sir Robert Hotung is generally a celebrated figure in this part of the New Territories. Indeed, the kindergarten in the village (just a stone’s throw away from the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall) is named after him. Unlike so, so many other village kindergartens, the Kam Tsin Village Ho Tung Kindergarten is still running. Judging from its appearance, I think it can be safely assumed that it is also in good hands.
Over its long history, the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall was once a private study, a mill, a candle and rattan workshop. In 2000, its roof collapsed after years of disrepairs, and with money from the Hong Kong Government, the villagers restored the Ancestral Hall to its former glory.
The Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall is a Declared Monument since 2019.
Photo: the two red columns by the side chambers are the single most precious material in the whole structure, of red sandstone.
According to the descriptions on site, “The ancestral hall is a typical Qing vernacular two-hall three-bay building with an internal courtyard flanked by two side chambers… The rear hall is fronted by a porch with humpbacked roof, which is a feature rarely seen in traditional Chinese buildings in Hong Kong.”
Needless to say, the wood carving decorations on the structural timberwork are beautiful. They typically depict auspicious objects, such as animals and flowers, with auspicious wordings. Some show famous folklores in traditional Chinese culture as well.
The villager there told me that the internal eaves columns made of red sandstone was the single most precious structure in the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall. They were very expensive during the time that the hall was built. The lattice window on the side chambers show the auspicious patterns of ancient Chinese copper cash made in porcelain. This restored feature was the work of Beijing craftsmen, as I was told.
On this ninth day of the Lunar New Year in 2024, I visited the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall and ran into the preparations for the Lantern-Lighting Ritual. I asked about this ritual and the villagers there told me that it is an occasion to celebrate the newly-born in the village.
Typically, the Lantern-Lighting Ritual takes place annually for all the children born in the past year. Because of the pandemic, the Lantern-Lighting Ritual had ceased for a few years. This would be the first time since the pandemic that the ceremony is held again in Kam Tsin. They are celebrating the births of 16 children born in those years.
It is interesting to note that only the male members of the descendants born are celebrated in the Lantern-Lighting Ritual. Although this fact suggests that preferences are given to boys (and certainly, there is such perception even now), the plaque displayed at the Ancestral Hall has presented a narrative that is inclusive of women’s role in the Mei Fung clan of the Hau’s. In all descriptions of critical, revered ancestors, there is a mention of their spouses’ names and dates deceased.
From the Sheung Shui MTR station, get on Bus Route 76K toward Long Ping. The bus stop is in Choi Yuen Estate. Get off at the Chung Pak Long Station.
After getting off, keep on going (toward the Yuen Long direction, meaning the direction that your bus heads off), and within ten seconds you come to Kam Tsin Road.
You will see the enormous façade that marks the entrance to the village. Go through this part of the village. At the first road on your left, enter the village and keep on going on this road.
Photo: On the first road to your left after passing the village entrance, you will enter the village. Keep on going on this paved road.
At this point, make a right.
At this point, make a right, and you will see a pond.
Walk pass the pond.
On your left, before you arrive at the public toilets and the Kam Tsing Village Ho Tung Kindergarten, you will see the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall.
Photo: at this point, make a left (you can see the roof of the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall on the left side of this picture)
Descriptions on site at the Hau Mei Fung Ancestral Hall.
In the indigenous villages of Hong Kong there is this idea of the “wai,” wherein the villagers built their villages surrounded by a brick wall. “Wai” means a girdle, and these villages are usually referred to as “Wai villages,” or “walled villages.” These walls were …
The Signal Tower in Tsim Sha Tsui has an inseverable relationship with the Former Marine Police Headquarters (now 1881 Heritage). The small hill of Blackhead Point lies in a nondescript location in the middle of Tsim Sha Tsui. To my surprise, a short walk up …
The day was foggy and there were drizzles, but the cold temperature made the hike pleasant throughout. The Hong Kong Trail Section 2 begins at the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir. Then the trail routes through Mount Kellett and Tin Wan Shan. Due to time pressure, I stopped short at the Aberdeen Reservoirs, and instead exited toward Peel Rise in Aberdeen.
This walk will take you at least 2-3 hours to complete.
From Pok Fu Lam Road, go on Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road. You will be walking along the northern edge of the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir.
Keep on going for about 10-15 minutes, and you will noticed these structures on your right that shows windows sealed with bricks. The stairs up to Hong Kong Trail Section 2 is right after you pass these structures.
Photos: After passing the structures on the photo (left), you will see the stairs up to Hong Kong Trail Section 2 in photo (right).
In this trail, the only climbing on stairs will take place at this point for about ten minutes.
When you reach the Hong Kong Water Works Pok Fu Lam Service Reservoir No. 2 1977, take the path on your right.
You will keep walking and very soon you will come across the stairs that has a sign showing Hong Kong Trail. This is the beginning of Hong Kong Trail Section No.2.
Keep climbing up those easy stairs and you will come upon another sign, follow the direction for Chi Fu. (Go left)
Observe the signs on the path, and follow the sign for Peel Rise and Chi Fu.
At this intersection, follow the sign for Peel Rise. (Go left)
Pass the branch paths here, keep to your left.
Then at this point, you will be descending on a set of stairs. Soon you will come upon the Pavilion. The view is not overly impressive, but it is a view nonetheless.
At this point, follow the sign for Peel Rise (the path on your left).
At these stairs, keep on going on your left.
The next section of the walk will be along the very, very long catchwater. At this point, make a left.
At this point, if you feel like you have already done enough walk, then exit via the path to Tin Wan Estate.
If you keep on going on the Hong Kong Trail, there are few views along the way besides, really, the catchwater.
This part, however, is somewhat photogenic.
At this point, you may choose to exit via the paved motorway as well. However, I kept on walking along the catchwater on the left.
About 22 minutes later, I finally got to the next exit, which is the motorway that will lead you back to civilization in Aberdeen. Say goodbye to the catchwater and turn here for the exit of the trail.
About 2 hours 50 minutes later, I made it to Peel Rise.
To be sure, this walk does not offer that much of a view. Where there were views, they were of the Aberdeen Chinese Permanent Cemetery and the Aberdeen West Typhoon Shelter only.
A Panorama of the Views on Hong Kong Trail Section 2
Yet there are a few pretty good features. For example, except for the initial 10-15 minute climbing up the stairs, there is no climbing up at all after. The rest of the walk was on level grounds or gentle slopes, and of course, quite a number of stairs down. Furthermore, the trail is generously shaded throughout, making it a pretty good option for hot summer days.
The Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre stands at the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir, but hikers may easily miss it. On Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road, when you are on your way to the Hong Kong Trail Section 2, the Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre is on your left when you see the sign for the Pok Fu Lam Country Park.
Although it is a declared monument, its humble appearance is what makes it an easy miss. Formerly the Watchman’s Cottage of Pok Ful Lam Reservoir, this structure was built in 1860-1863. It is contemporaneous with the Pok Fu Lam Reservoir, which is the oldest reservoir in Hong Kong.
According to descriptions on site, the former Watchman’s Cottage of Pok Fu Lam Reservoir was built in the “Neo-Classical style featuring white painted walls, triangular pediments and a pitched roof of Chinese tiles.” Like so many colonial buildings built in that era, there is a small veranda. This veranda features granite columns, giving the structure a classic look.
The group of Pok Fu Lam Reservoir structures that has the status of Declared Monuments include the four masonry bridges, the gauge and the Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre.
Descriptions on site at the Country Park Pok Fu Lam Management Centre.
The Wikipedia on Pok Fu Lam Reservoir.
The District Office (North) is just a stone’s throw away from the Old Tai Po Police Station as both are located on the former Flagstaff Hill on Wan Tau Kok Lane. Both are also declared monuments. Now the Law Ting Pong Scout Center, the District …