Vignettes of the World
The Jao Tsung-I Academy celebrates and memorializes the legendary life of Jao Tsung-I, a sinologist of many talents in arts and history. I took a walk at the venue and joined a public tour. The Life of Jao Tsung-I Jao Tsung-I was very accomplished in …
The bloggers and photographers in Hong Kong have been raving about the red foliage that has lined up the public parks in Shenzhen. I jumped on the bandwagon and visited two parks. I first visited the Sihai Park in Shekou, then headed over to the …
I had limited time in the day. My reserved table at the Unagiya Hirokawa Restaurant would be up at 2pm, and I spent too much time at the bamboo grove. After some debate, I decided that I would see the Okochi-Sanso Villa, despite initial doubts. It turned out to be a very good decision.
In the last entry, I recommended seeing three sites in Arashiyama if one is crunched for time. I named the bamboo grove, the Tenryu-ji Temple and the Okochi-Sanso Villa. The reason is that these three choices give visitors a taste of some things that Arashiyama stands for. The bamboo grove is photogenic in its own right. The Tenryu-ji Temple presents the royal and the religious in one.
The Okochi-Sanso Villa features beautiful landscaping, fantastic aerial and mountain views, a touch of the contemporary films, and the exceptional life of a Japanese actor. These three sites are also in proximity with each other, making it a sensible choice to do all.
Most of the structures at the Okochi-Sanso Villa were built over a period of 30 years in the early 20th century. Nestled in the ridges on the south side of Mount Ogura, the estate is part of the legacy of the famous actor Denjiro Okochi. He extended significant effort in building the landscapes that reflect his philosophy in nature as part of his Buddhist faith. After he passed away in 1962, his spouse continued to manage the estate, but eventually decided to open it for visits by the public. It remains a private property managed by the family.
The Okochi-Sanso Villa in Arashiyama is the former home of Japanese actor Denjiro Okochi. Born Masuo Obe in 1898, Denjiro was born into a family of physicians. He started training at the Shinkokugeki (New National Theater) and studied acting. He was known for the jidaigeki (period drama) genre, which featured sword fights and sword plays. Eventually, Denjiro Okochi became famous in the chanbara (sword-fighting) samurai films.
The period drama refers “to stories that take place before the Meiji Restoration of 1868” (Wikipedia on Jidaigeki). Perhaps quite naturally, the dramas that are inspired by the pre-Meiji period would focus on the lives of the samurai, as the warriors for the Daimyo, those feudal lords having the status of just one rank below the shoguns. The samurai originated from the Heian period, which began when Emperor Kanmu moved the seat of the capital from Nara to Kyoto.
The samurai class emerged from this period of Japanese history. Many of the samurai clans were themselves noblemen, as descendants of the imperial family. When the Emperor demanded military protection, he relied on the large extensions of the imperial family that were given lordship status by the Emperor. They owned land and had power as the Daimyo. Some of the extended imperial descendants became professional fighters, known as the samurai.
Popular representation of the samurai era is very much romanticized and readers would be able to readily recognize the style of film that typified the samurai silent films. The dark tones, the samurai spirit of honor, the makeup that accentuates the pronounced eyebrows, certain ways that language is spoken etc. Besides the samurai, the merchants, famers, the daimyo and even the shoguns are featured in jidaigeki period dramas.
Denjiro Okochi rose to the peak of his acting career in the 1920’s silent films, until he ceased acting in 1961. He passed away the following year.
Upon paying an entrance fee of ¥1000, you will enter the beautiful landscaped gardens of the Okochi-Sanso Villa. A leisurely stroll in the villa grounds will take you through some of the most fantastic open-air views in Arashiyama. Looking eastward, you will see Kyoto city afar. Looking westward, you will see the mountainous Arashiyama in the colors of all spectrum.
The Jibutsu-do is a small Buddhist shrine. It was built in the Meiji period, and Denjiro Okochi had the whole structure taken into his villa. It is said that he used to meditate here, the very first structure in his garden villa. He then developed the rest of the estate over a few decades.
After seeing beautiful landscaped gardens, make your way to Myoko-an Hall, which lies above the main entrance.
After Denjiro died in 1962, his spouse Taeka lived here “to guard the garden.” This structure was rebuilt in the 50th anniversary of Denjiro Okochi’s passing. You will take off your shoes in Myoko-an Hall. In here time seems to flow in a different rhythm with unrivaled serenity. Denjiro Okochi was a great admirer of Zen.
The last venue to visit would be the open air museum showing some of the stills of the movies in which Denjiro Okochi starred. It was short but captured the key accomplishments of his illustrious life.
The Wikipedia on Denjiro Okochi.
The Wikipedia on Jidaigeki.
Descriptions on site at the Okochi-Sanso Villa.
Descriptions on site at the Samurai Museum in Kyoto.
If you have only limited time in Arashiyama, I highly recommend three sites to visit: the bamboo grove, the Tenryu-ji Temple and the Okochi-Sanso Villa. After walking the bamboo grove, I entered the Tenryu-ji Temple via the North Gate. One dominant theme of the temples …
In my original planning, I envisioned spending one full day in Arashiyama’s most famous sites, including the bamboo grove, the Tenryu-ji Temple, Jojakko-ji Temple, Nison-in Temple and the Okochi-Sanso Villa. Those I have done on the first day indeed (and more). As it turned out, …
From the Kiyomizu-dera Temple I headed toward the direction of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine. I was quite tired, as in this day I have visited the Nijo Castle and have had to bear the cold at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. I pressed on, however, as I wanted to see as much as possible on this trip.
After dinner, I made it to Yasaka-jinja Shrine, which had been known as the Gion Shrine at an earlier time.
The deity being enshrined at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is Susanoo as its kami, amongst others. Kami refers to a deity or a supernatural power that is revered as god and inhabits in nature. The Yasaka-jinja Shrine was originally named Gion Shrine, dedicated to Shinto, which is considered a native faith in Japan.
Shinto is polytheistic and animistic. Worshippers practice the principles of purity, as shown in their cleaning rituals. Other rituals include dance, rites of passage and kami festivals. Followers of the faith will offer food and drinks to the deities, and priests officiated some of the shrines as well.
Visitors should take away from a visit in the Kiyomizu-dera Temple and a visit to the Yasaka-jinja Shrine an appreciation of the distinctiveness of these two venues as places of worship. Of course, there are already the difference in their designation—shrines are for Shinto and temples are for Buddhism. The shrines are where the spirits of the deities actually reside in, whereas the temples are where the monks gather to live and study Buddhist doctrines together. There also come differences in the nature and the origins of the deities being venerated and the philosophical foundations upon which these faiths rest. Finally, the distinction between Shinto and Buddhism stand to attest a long history of animosity against foreign influence, in even as recent as the Meiji period.
Although Shinto and Buddhism were viewed and practiced as one and the same for many centuries, there was a notable, official separation of the two faiths in the early Meiji period (as one instance of the anti-Buddhism movement). Kami worship might have existed in Japan as early as 300 B.C, while Buddhism entered Japan between 300 and 538 A.D. Buddhism, despite being a celebrated faith in Japan now, was not indigenous in Japan.
The official website of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine suggests that the origin of the shrine is subject to a few different theories. It is believed that Susanoo was introduced into Kyoto by Irishi, an errand from Korea. The official books at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine determine that the shrine has existed as early as the year 656, which was before the Heian period, when the capital of Japan was relocated to Kyoto from Nara in 794 A.D.
Furthermore, the Yasaka-jinja Shrine had imperial patronage during the mid-Heian period. The deities of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine were considered the official patron saints of Kyoto in those times. There was an epidemic in Kyoto in 869 A.D. It was believed that prayers to the deities at Yasaka-jinja Shrine had cast out the evil and stopped the epidemic. The Gion Festival originated from this historical event.
In Kyoto, the Gion Shrine was a beloved site for the locals. They call it Gion San, as an endearing name for the shrine. The site is very crowded during the New Years, as with the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine (which I did not have a chance to visit in this trip).
Every year, the shrine holds the Migoshi Togyo, meaning the procession of the portable shrine, as the celebration of the Gion Festival. It takes place on the nights of July 17 and 24. On July 17, 3 Migoshi’s (the portable shrines) will be taken for display at Otabisho in downtown Kyoto. It is believed that these shrines carry the deities with them and will bless everyone on the way of the parade. After sitting in Otabisho for a week, the portable shrines return to Yasaka-jinja Shrine on July 24.
Perhaps what caught my attention at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is a whole section of the shrine dedicated to romantic relationships (with matchmaking prayers). Daikoku-sha is where the faithful gather to pray for a good relationship with their loved ones.
Night visit at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is possible, and therefore if you are very crunched for time, look to visit the Yasaka Shrine in the evening, when some other popular shrines typically close at 5pm.
As to the heartwarming dinner that I had after leaving the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, I wanted something along the lines of curry and found Namaste Dhaula Giri on 80 Tamamizucho. This is the main throughway between the Kiyomizu-dera Temple and generally the Gion district.
Besides the sheer authenticity of the Nepalese food being served, I also enjoyed the atmosphere in the restaurant. Needless to say, this type of food likely resonates more so with the foreigner population in Kyoto than the locals. I felt very much at home there ordering in English and behaving in the typical foreigner’s way. It felt festive, lively and warm in the restaurant, and that was what I needed after freezing at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple for the night scenery viewing.
Across the street from the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is the Gion, made popular as the district for Japan’s geisha’s. Not that I really thought I would see a geisha or two there, but there was a slight feeling of disappointment in that I did not see any.
Suffice to say, the traditional wooden machiya merchant houses in Gion sent some pretty good vibes. But it was cold and quiet when I visited, I daresay I saw less than ten souls there. It was good enough to say that I had been there.
The official website of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine.
The Wikipedia on Shinto.
The Wikipedia on Yasaka Shrine.
Walk Around in Kyoto, A Complete Guide to the Yasaka Shrine.
The Japan Wikipedia on Yasaka-jinja Shrine.
The adventurous lunch of the day was at a convenience store. I have long heard that the convenience stores of Japan serve up wonderful egg salad sando’s. And it certainly lived up to its good name. From the 7-Eleven, going on Matsubara-dori, was a gentle …
Along the busy Queen’s Road Central stands a market that has a long history serving the daily needs of Central residents since the beginning of Hong Kong as a British colony. First opened in 1842, the year after the British formally began their colonial administration …
The day was bright and perfect for al fresco dining. I joined my family in a casual lunch at the Beas River Country Club of the Hong Kong Jockey Club in Sheung Shui. I lived close, so I walked about 40 minutes to arrive at the Old Clubhouse Restaurant and Bar.
I was keen to see the most significant heritage at the Beas River Country Club, which was the gateway into Jockey Club’s countryside clubhouse. Known as the Jardine Gate, this structure “originally stood at the entrance to Jardine’s Stables in Leighton Hill Road and were later moved to the company godowns in East Point (now Causeway Bay). They were donated to the Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club by Jardine, Matheson & Co., Ltd when the godowns were demolished in 1972.” (Descriptions on site)
Jardine Matheson & Co., Ltd held a large swathe of land in the now-Causeway Bay Area during the early 20th century. The Jardine Gate stood once at the entrance to the grand houses owned by Jardine Matheson & Co., Ltd, intended as the Jardine tycoon’s residence, in East Point Hill. Eventually, Jardine Matheson & Co., Ltd. sold some of its land holding in Causeway Bay to the Lee Hysan family in 1925. As a result of Jardine Matheson & Co., Ltd.’s land dealings the gate stood at three different locations before being stored at Jardine, Matheson & Co., Ltd.’s godowns.
It is said that the granite gate is built in a typical English country house style, with arched entrance way and a corresponding arched top. All of the three entrances are fitted with metal gates now.
Built in the 1920s, the Old Clubhouse Restaurant and Bar at the Beas River Country Club is a chalet featuring beautiful stone stucco walls as its exterior and classic colonial setting for its dining space. It was certainly a world of its own being located in the furthest north of Hong Kong’s countryside in Sheung Shui.
Inside the Old Clubhouse, I saw beautiful, festive adornments for LEVADE, which is also the name of its chalet accommodation. The clubhouse was brimming with Christmas vibes as a world of its own. It is little wonder why the Beas River Country Club is a prime location of choice for wedding celebrations and special occasions.
We had lunch al fresco at the restaurant. The menu features an incredible variety of cuisines, from Korean to Japanese, from good ole American steak to Hong Kong classics such as baked pork chop rice. The day was blessed with generous apricity.
The Beas River Country Club of Jockey Club requires membership for using its facilities. Besides two dining establishments, there is also a host of other facilities such as spa, swimming pool, gym, golf, tennis and table tennis courts, etc.
Descriptions on site at the Beas River Country Club of the Hong Kong Jockey Club.
The Website of the Hong Kong Jockey Club.
When I woke up on my first full day in Japan, I decided to ditch the Osaka Castle and head right on to Kyoto. I took the JR line to Kyoto from the Osaka Station, having to navigate the morning’s rush hour, and arrived in …