Blog

The City of Rams — The Dafushan Forest Park in Panyu

The City of Rams — The Dafushan Forest Park in Panyu

In early December, the beautiful bald cypress at the Dafushan Forest Park had not yet turned red. There was a whole afternoon of free time, so I decided to take my family for a stroll at the Dafushan Forest Park anyway. In the wintertime, when 

The City of Rams — The Shawan Ancient Town in Panyu

The City of Rams — The Shawan Ancient Town in Panyu

There are endless things to do in Guangzhou, which is known to the Chinese as the City of Rams. In a recent family trip, I took my family first to Panyu, as part of Guangzhou, then we headed on to Guilin in Guangxi Province to 

Art Basel 2025

Art Basel 2025

It’s springtime and the major events of the year are underway. I visited the Art Basel 2025 last night at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai. Here’s a quick snapshot of my experience.

The Art Basel brings together an enormous number of art galleries to display the latest creation of their artists. The main purpose of the event is to sell these artwork. But art lovers are well positioned to observe the latest creative trends in the art world.

Art Basel 2025 in Hong Kong will be held between March 28 and 30 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Tickets are available for sale here.

General Comments about Art Basel

To be honest, I am not a big fan of art, and modern and contemporary art is perhaps my least favorite genre within the fine arts sphere. I always think that art should first and foremost appeal to the aesthetic. A lot of modern and contemporary artists focus on the provocativeness of the message at the expense of the beauty of their work.

I have difficulty appreciating art that presents overtly provocative messages. And surely, at large art fairs like the Art Basel, you would come across a lot of those.

Photo: I liked this installation, feels like peas in the pod.

That said, there was enough there at the Art Basel that satisfied my soul for two hours. There were some pieces there of the great masters, including Picasso, Miro, Kusama, Dali and Klimt.

Some Highlights of Art Basel

Daphne Mandel

When I started touring Art Basel, I was really only keen about the work of one artist, Daphne Mandel, who is a wonderful painter that cares deeply about Hong Kong. Her artwork features a recreation of common sceneries that are distinctly Hong Kong, rendered in impressionistic strokes with fine touches of humanity. I missed her gallery exhibition late last year, and thought I must see her work at Art Basel this time.

I was just pulling out my phone trying to look up her Instagram account, when she simply glided right before my eyes. It was a perfect synchrony and I caught up with her there. Only one piece of her painting is on show, but it fully expresses the passion with which she has embraced Hong Kong as her second home.

Daphne Mandel is French born and she has been active in both filming and art creation in Hong Kong. Her latest work, Cha Guo, is a documentary film about the disappearing community of Kwu Tung.

Daphne’s artwork presents a side of Hong Kong that is readily recognizable and yet immediately refreshing in the bright colors and perspectives that are her own. She has the ability to bring forth qualities of Hong Kong in a full spectrum of colors and imagination that gives the otherwise banal realities of Hong Kong new life and meaning. Her booth at Art Basel is Booth 1D22.

Louis Vuitton by Takashi Murakami

You won’t miss the Louis Vuitton booth at Art Basel. The show this year features the work of Takashi Murakami, and the creator himself was there. Needless to say, there were a ton of people hovering at the booth, wanting a glimpse of the artist and the fusion venture that brought art and high fashion together.

Visitors entering the Hong Kong booth, shaped like a metallic Vuitton trunk, will pass between a pair of Murakami’s large-scale statues, “Zoucho-kun” and “Tamon-kun,” and the “Superflat Jellyfish Eyes 1” screen, which all belong to the permanent colletion of the Foundation Louis Vuitton in Paris. (Women Wear Daily).

Gustav Klimt Sketches

I love the art of Gustav Klimt. At the Art Basel there is one gallery on the upper level that was dedicated to the master of gold. No, you will not see the work of his Golden Phase, but rather the sketches of (mostly nude) models that were readily recognizable as likely to be the initial prototypes of his famed figures in his golden paintings.

Some of the postures had an erotic bent. The great mind that is shown through these sketches is well alive.

Some Other Interesting Artwork

I have rambled on about the artwork that are provocative only with no apparent aesthetic value, but there were artwork at the Art Basel that presented both dimensions of art evenly and they were very effective.

This following is called the Debate, by a Filipino artist.

This year’s event is sponsored by UBS.

Sources

Women’s Wear Daily, Exclusive: Louis Vuitton Shows Takashi Murakai Work at Art Basel Hong Kong.

A Symphony of Colors — A Fish Eye’s View of Osaka at Shinsekai

A Symphony of Colors — A Fish Eye’s View of Osaka at Shinsekai

I had just about a little more than a half day in Osaka and so I decided to visit Shinsekai. Time stopped at Shinsekai after the reconstruction period post WWII. Meaning “New World,” Shinsekai was once a beacon of hope for Osaka. The area developed 

A Symphony of Colors — Nakatanidou Mochi as the Treasure of Nara

A Symphony of Colors — Nakatanidou Mochi as the Treasure of Nara

Visitors of Nara must not miss the Nakatanidou mochi as it is certainly a precious intangible heritage of Nara. In my Japanese food entry, the Nakatanidou mochi is the only food that I thought was an absolute must-try in this Japan trip. I passed by 

A Symphony of Colors — The Todai-ji Temple in Nara Park and Myriam Café

A Symphony of Colors — The Todai-ji Temple in Nara Park and Myriam Café

The Toadai-ji Temple is a significant temple within the grounds of the Nara Park. I simply took a look of its outside, and did not bother to queue a long line to see the big Buddha statue inside. Suffice to say, the imposing Nandaimon Gate was itself a sight to behold.

A Brief History of the Todai-ji Temple

Meaning the “Great Eastern Temple,” Todai-ji Temple prides itself in the enormous Buddha statue that graces its main hall, the Daibutsuden. The current Daibutsuden was once the record holder for being the world’s largest wooden building. It was a reconstruction in 1692, and it is already a third smaller than the very original Daibutsuden.

The original temple of Todai-ji Temple was constructed in 752 A.D. Emperor Shomu commissioned the construction of this temple to rein in a tumultuous time of epidemic and political chaos. It began as the head temple for all the provincial Buddhist temples of Japan. Well, remember that Emperor Kanmu moved the capital to Kyoto to stay away from the Nara Buddhists that became too powerful? The Todai-ji Temple Buddhists were the ones from whom Emperor Kanmu sought to run away.

The bronze Buddha statue of Todai-ji Temple is 15 meters tall in a seated posture. It represents Vairocana, a universal Buddha in the Mahayana Buddhism tradition.

The Nandaimon Gate of the Todai-ji Temple and its Nio Guardian Kings

On the way to the Todai-ji Temple I went through the enormous and imposing Nandaimon Gate, also a wooden structure. On the sides of the Nandaimon Gate inside stand two large Nio Guardian Kings. The fierce looking guarding gods are designated national treasures, like the Nandaimon Gate itself.

By the day that I visited Nara, I was simply exhausted from all the touring and the photography that engaged a whole lot of energy and attention for all of the previous week. I figured that I really only wanted to see the deer in Nara. Therefore I skipped the temple altogether.

I needed lunch so I headed out on a bus and returned to the city.

After lunch, I simply strolled around in the old business district (Naramachi). I found Myriam Café.

Myriam Café

The quaint and cosy Myriam Café was the highlight of my stay in Nara. It has a cute appearance, but passersby can easily miss it because it is also humble.

It felt as if I entered into a world of its own at Myriam Café. A baby grand piano sits in the corner. The low ceiling hung just a couple feet above me, creating a sense of intimacy as enclosed by the wooden furnishing of the café.

There were lone customers like me that kept things to themselves, and there were loquacious chatters exchanging views on children and gossip. The two ladies working at the counter served their food. I ordered their signature chocolate cake with coffee. I was clearly a foreigner, but they did not have the spare time to chat.

The chocolate cake and curry are the two signature items at Myriam Café. I ordered a chocolate cake during lunch hour and the lady had to serve up one of the last pieces they had. The chocolate cake was heavenly dense and rich in flavor.

I sat there for about an hour or two, admiring the non-Japanese lady there speaking fluent Japanese to her customers. I was in the company of strangers, an unlikely solitude within a warm, humanly atmosphere.

It came time for dinner soon. I checked back in at the Guesthouse Tamura, rested a bit and had my last dinner in Japan.

Sources

Japanguide.com on Todaiji Temple.

A Symphony of Colors — The Nara Park and Its Free Spirited Deer

A Symphony of Colors — The Nara Park and Its Free Spirited Deer

I had concluded my journey in Kyoto after five full days touring numerous temples for Momiji. It came time for Nara, and I headed out on the slow Nara train in the morning. I arrived into a Nara that was slightly overcast and notably colder 

A Symphony of Colors — A Five-Day Itinerary for Kyoto

A Symphony of Colors — A Five-Day Itinerary for Kyoto

In this journey I spent five full days in Kyoto and visited countless breathtaking sites for momiji foliage viewing. I found all of the sites that I visited to be worthwhile. Based on this experience, I have come up with the following suggested five-day itinerary 

An Aged Tenement Revived at Yu Lok Lane

An Aged Tenement Revived at Yu Lok Lane

I was just strolling in Sai Ying Pun and stumbled upon a hidden gem amidst its crisscrossing uphill grids. No. 9 and No. 10 Yu Lok Lane are classified as the shophouse type of tenement houses. A lot of the traditional Hong Kong tenements are stores with residential quarters in the back or upstairs. Their social and historic values are expressed in the roles that they have played in the lives of people with humble roots.

Yu Lok Lane in Sai Ying Pun

Yu Lok Lane is a small street running the east-west direction between Centre Street and High Street. The tenements that are preserved are built along this very small alleyway, on a raised terrace supported by retaining walls.

No. 9 and 10 of Yu Lok Lane in Sai Ying Pun consist of two tenement houses abutting each other. The layout of the buildings is typical of the tenement houses of the same era — during the early 20th century.

In this area of Hong Kong Island, Sai Ying Pun developed as a Chinese community on the edge of the City of Victoria after 1850. There were rows of seaside houses in this area. What used to be a mountainous terrain was turned into habitable neighborhoods. And in Yu Lok Lane, the houses that stood were pretty much the same as the two tenement houses that were preserved.

Circa the 1870s, the owner of the Yu Lok Lane tenement rented out the property to relatively poor working-class tenants, such as coolies and blacksmiths. They likely worked at the freight pier nearby in Sai Ying Pun. The records of the Basel Mission (which established the Kau Yan Church nearby on High Street), show that most residents were of Hakka origin.

In around 1918, records show that No. 1-12 Yu Lok Lane had completed a redevelopment with 34 tenement houses built. It is likely that No. 9 and 10 tenement houses belonged to this era of redevelopment.

During World War II, this area of Sai Ying Pun was designated “Sea Water District” by the Japanese. Severe bombing has resulted in the destruction of all other tenement buildings, save for No. 9 and 10, which remained relatively intact. In 1949, No. 11 underwent restoration.

Due to redevelopment, all other such tenement houses have been pulled down. No. 9 and 10 Yu Lok Lane remained the only witness to the lives that once lived here.

Architectural Features of No. 9 and 10 Yu Lok Lane

What caught my eye at Yu Lok Lane is the beautiful timber French doors and windows. At first glance, it was a surprise to me that these were Chinese tenement buildings. It evoked western and colonial vibes due to its gabled roof and extended vertial columns.

According to the Antiquities Advisory Board’s historic building appraisal, the two houses “have narrow frontages and are paired with a shared staircase. The front façades are rendered and painted and originally probably had projecting open balconies at first floor level, but these have now been enclosed with folding wooden casement windows. Original wooden doors and windows still exist to the ground floor.”

 

The original tiled floor of the tenement is largely preserved.

A Tour of the Tenement at Yu Lok Lane

A Tour of the Tenement at Yu Lok Lane takes just about 15 minutes and it’s worth it to read the captions in some detail. The petite exhibition discusses the social aspect of the tenements.

In the old days, there were wide space outside the tenement houses. The residents would congregate in this area (the lane) to relax and socialize. This has enabled the lane to become a place of community.

No. 9 and 10 Yu Lok Lane are Grade 3 Historic Building.

Sources

Descriptions on site at Yu Lok Lane.

Antiques Advisory Board, Historic Building Appraisal, No. 9 and 10 Yu Lok Lane, Number 1078.

The Long Valley Nature Park

The Long Valley Nature Park

The wetlands of Long Valley in Sheung Shui have finally opened to the public as a site of ecological tourism since November 2024. Wedged between the Sheung Yue River and Shek Sheung River in Sheung Shui, Long Valley had long been the freshwater marsh that