A Failed Attempt at Reaching Hung Shek Mun
Ever since I visited Chek Chau (Port Island), I have been fascinated by sceneries of red earth in Hong Kong. From fellow bloggers I learned that the seaside at Hung Shek Mun presents stunning views of such. I debated for quite a while, because the sources I found warned hikers that it takes hiking a very difficult trail to get to Hung Shek Mun.
Hung Shek Mun
Located within the Yan Chau Tong Marine Park (Double Haven), Hung Shek Mun lies on the northeastern coastline of Hong Kong. Hung Shek Mun Tsuen is an abandoned village on this route.
I have discussed how the earth develops its red hue in my entry on Chek Chau (Port Island). Given the proximity of Chek Chau and Hung Shek Mun, I would assume that it is the same geological process that formed the fantastic views of red coastline in Hung Shek Mun.
The Research
There are two ways to get to Hung Shek Mun. From Wu Kau Tang via the Double Haven Country Trail, there is a southern route that begins in the former village of Ha Miu Tin Tsuen Village. You will have to climb Tai Tong for this trail, then hike on the Plover Cove Reservoir Country Trail. My research seemed to suggest that this is very difficult to follow with a pretty high chance of getting lost.
On my hiking app, I learned about the northern route via Wong Chuk Chung Road. It shows a clear path and the hiking app says that it takes 2.5 hours to walk this way.
I did take a good long time to think but decided that I could try this northern route. For the record, on this first attempt I did not make it out to Hung Shek Mun in the end. And with the reasons that I state below, I shall not do this trail again either. Therefore Hung Shek Mun will be taken off my bucket list for now.
The Trail on Wong Chuk Chung Road
I chose this northern route because it is clear. It is called Wong Chuk Chung Road. From Wu Kau Tang I walked passed the Miu Sam Stream on the Double Haven Country Trail. Before reaching Sam A Chung, there is a path on the right with this following warning sign. The government warns hikers not to take this trail because it is dangerous. I was determined, however, so I headed on.
To be fair, the first parts of the trail on Wong Chuk Chung Road were not too bad. I proceeded steadily, and noticed some pretty nice views on the way. If you follow the hiking ribbons carefully, you would not get lost, although you should always have your hiking app on.
I did notice that it became more difficult as I hiked further. For example, I did have to cross some four to five streams on the first third of Wong Chuk Chung Road. In one of them I did slip and fall.
My spirit was good for the first three hours of this hike. I estimated that, if the hiking app said it takes 2.5 hours, it would take at least 3.5 hours for me.
Surely, there were some views to boast of on this trail. There is a stream perfect for a rest stop on the way. It is reminiscent of the Miu Sam Stream on the Double Haven Country Trail.
This is the view of the islands and the coastline on the northeastern waters of Hong Kong. Perhaps this is also the highest point on this trail.
Photos: Panoramic views of the coastline of Hong Kong’s northeastern waters.
I walked on and crossed two bays. Surely, these views of the red earth are satisfactory too.
At about the fourth hour after I started in Wu Kau Tang, I sensed a notable decline in my spirit. On the Wong Chuk Chung Road part of the trail, I noticed that no matter how far I thought I have walked, I barely moved any on the hiking app. At the fourth hour, I estimated that I have finished about 9/10 of the way to Hung Shek Mun.
A Good Decision
It looked to me that it would take another hour to finally get to Hung Shek Mun, but by then it would also take at least 5 to 6 hours for me to walk back to Wu Kau Tang. I would not be able to finish this hike before dark if I decide to push on.
My decision was to turn back at the 4th hour. And I did make it back to my car before sunset.
This would be the first time that I have given up and turned back in all the hikes I have done since hiking regularly in 2020. And the lesson learned was that it is certainly okay to do so. Whenever I decide to do longer trails, the most important concern is whether I can finish the walk before it gets dark. Because Wong Chuk Chung Road is not a standard hiking path, hiking back in the dark would present exceptional risks.
Some Suggestions for Fellow Hikers
The Wong Chuk Chung Road is not a standard trail and there are some dangerous parts on the trail. Therefore, please do not go alone. It is better if you have a guide who had prior experience in going to Hung Shek Mun. Yet even with an experienced guide, you yourself should also be experienced in hiking. Hung Shek Mun is not a destination for beginners.
The distance would be somewhere between 15-17km return. On Wong Chuk Chung Road, the paths are very narrow, and lined with scratchy shrubs on many sections. Therefore, protect yourself with hat, sunglasses, long sleeves, gloves and long pants. Hiking boots are necessary as well because you will tread on some streams. Do not go on rainy days, for there are stream crossing. I actually do not advise taking a hiking pole, because many sections require climbing on all fours.
Needless to say, bring enough water (perhaps in the range of 2 litres), and also you must bring some energy-replenishing food.
Finally, the fellow hikers that I met early in the hike came along when I was leaving. I asked them how was Hung Shek Mun, they said the views were perhaps not as breathtaking as they had expected. They are young men clearly experienced in hiking, because they told me that they reached Hung Shek Mun in over two hours, with no break taken in between. Their final point was that perhaps the views there were not worth the work.
That made me happy somewhat.
Well, I am sure it’s sour grapes.
How to Get there
For how to get to Wu Kau Tang and the Double Haven Country Trail, please see my prior entry here. Be very good with time, because if you rely on public transportation, the last minibus leaves Wu Kau Tang at 8:15pm. If you miss that minibus, chances are it will be hard to even call a cab willing to take you back to civilsation.
On Sundays and public holidays, Bus Route 275R stops you off between the Tai Po Market Bus Terminus and Wu Kau Tang. Again, please consult its schedule to plan your journey better. This hike does take a whole day.
By private car, there is a parking lot right at the proper entrance of the Double Haven Country Trail, at the end of Wu Kau Tang Road. There is also a parking lot, usually with more spots, along the Wu Kau Tang Road. It is about an eight to ten minute walk to the proper entrance of the Double Haven Country Trail.
