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Finding Tibet – First Impressions, Lhasa

Finding Tibet – First Impressions, Lhasa

When we arrived at Lhasa, we were told not to shower or exercise on our first day. We did both, as who could pass up the first chance of showering after two days without it on the train? The walk up four floors to our 

Finding Tibet – The Qinghai Tibet Railway

Finding Tibet – The Qinghai Tibet Railway

The Qinghai-Tibet Railway was newly opened when my friends and I decided to visit Tibet.  We joined a tour so that we could be arriving in Tibet on the train. The ride was nice as the train was new and equipped with individual oxygen supply. 

A Twenty-Year Dance with Melbourne

A Twenty-Year Dance with Melbourne

Time flows at an exceedingly slow pace in Australia.  I feel like I can take each second and weave it into the tapestry of a day, thread by thread.  Perhaps it is the lifestyle here making it so, for people are just so laid back.  It is in here that I am able to appreciate the minuteness of time, pruning life for its freshness, being aware of its very essence, and having the leisure to reflect daily, sometimes even half-a-daily.  I have, after so many years away, come to embrace the Melbournian way.  My heart beats in the same rhythm, my walk the same rate, as if merging unto a transformation that is measured, assured and deliberate.

In the Southern Hemisphere, life seems to operate at a complete reversal from that in Hong Kong.  Besides the seasons being reversed and requiring adjustments, the amount of time I spend in solitude is in opposite proportion here.  I stay with my family, and so I must make special effort in order to spend time alone, whereas in Hong Kong solitude is the default way of life.  I am unsure whether I like this constant companionship, with people caring about the most insignificant things such as what I am having for breakfast, but this condition being temporary does put things in perspective for me.  I am able to appreciate it for what it is worth, and to be honest I am happy here.

My only excuse for time alone is work.  I divide the day into a few sessions and usually I am at a coffee shop for the morning session, and I can easily extend this solitude to lunch.  Then comes afternoon and I make myself available at home to see if I may be of help.  I am determined that this is a work holiday and I must be helpful to my aunts somehow.  That includes fixing a stubbornly stuck LED light in the kitchen, or a car remote that has been out of battery, both of which was service that I have satisfactorily rendered.

I do remind myself every now and then that the priority here is to spend time with my grandmother who is at the very senior age of ninety-three this year.  She has trouble walking now.  As she takes every step with difficulty, it hurts me to see the expression of an undeniable old age, that the one who once took one hour journeys to take care of me when I was young would be at the time in life that five minutes of walking requires a half hour of recuperation.  Yet I know that she does enjoy life despite all the infirmities that come with age.  And she is happy that I am here.  Her happiness in turn brings me a sense of contentment that I struggled to have in the oh-so-many-times I have been in Australia.  Her happiness keeps my restless self at ease.  And I do not miss the busy-for-nothing lifestyle in Hong Kong, well at least not for the past few weeks.

For two times each day the aroma of steamed rice greets me in the apartment that my grandmother lives.  It is a distinctly Chinese memory, yet only in Melbourne does this smell strike me as extraordinary.  For it is not just rice, but more so it is my grandmother’s Australian rice.  When my aunt carries the pot and sets it on the table, the presence of this staple food, cooked in my grandmother’s way, permeates my senses.  The way it looks, smells, tastes and is remembered triggers a flux of emotions in me.  My grandmother is very strict with her food.  They must be prepared in a certain way that allows for little deviation.  She can taste the difference if not enough water was put in the vegetables.  Therefore the presence of her food contains her very person, with eight decades of cooking behind her.

As dusk befalls I clear the sofa and line up three chairs as an extension to make a bed.  At that moment I find simple comfort in the fact that I shall be resting this night in the company of my family.  I often stare at the skyline of Melbourne City as I lie down, seeing in plain view a modest (the neon lights here do not compete for attention) yet assured (the buildings attest silently to Melbourne’s booming economy) display of its success.  Melbourne has been known for being the most livable city of the world and I come up close to the heart of commerce that defines one aspect of Melbourne.  At some point I fall asleep.  Perhaps in my dreams this view of the City lingers, and becomes the peeping hole of the twenty years of personal history that began when my family first migrated here.   There has been a sea change in Melbourne since I first set foot here.  There has been an incredible growth in my life since I left a year later.  And when I wake the next day to the sunlight of the southern hemisphere, shining evermore warmly, I am reminded that Australia is as much in me as I am in it.

 

     

Gweilo: Memories of a Hong Kong Childhood

Gweilo: Memories of a Hong Kong Childhood

By Martin Booth In this delightful memoir, Martin Booth shares about his childhood exploring Hong Kong in the post WWII period as the son of a British civil servant stationed in Hong Kong.  This was the time when Hong Kong was blossoming from a sleepy 

Hello from Hong Kong

Hello from Hong Kong

As I am based in Hong Kong, I also intend to share with you about Hong Kong life.  Although I consider myself American, my perspective on Hong Kong is half-way local and half-way foreign, since I did spend the first sixteen years of my life 

South Korea – Please Look After Mother

South Korea – Please Look After Mother

By Kyung-sook Shin

The last time that I was aware of the idea of a “Korean farmer” was in 2005, when hordes of them came to Hong Kong to protest against the WTO meeting held here.  The Korean farmers organized more than a thousand members to rally behind their cause against globalization.  That there are still peasants living in the industrial powerhouse that is of South Korea today is beyond my ordinary stretch of imagination.  Yet the “Korean farmer” comes alive in this book by South Korean author Kyung-sook Shin, who tells the gripping tale of a countryside mother lost in the metropolis of Seoul and the fruitless effort to search for her by her family.

The story of this heartbreaking disappearance is told through the eyes of four people in the family, with regret being the thread that weaves together the joys and pains of fifty years of family life in the countryside.  Park So-nyo, the mother of the family, can grow anything that she touches.  Amidst flavorful descriptions of the rustic food that she makes, the story unfolds and lays bare the tensions felt between generations, spouses, in-laws, and siblings.  As the protagonists in each chapter reminisce their time with mom, readers are led into a world of delicate balance between familial obligations, personal sacrifices, spousal loyalties and the hopes and dreams that parents had for their children, all taking place in a difficult period of post-war reconstruction followed by a take-off of significant economic development and urbanization.

Yet despite its setting in a faraway place and time, in a peasantry and poverty that is little known even to most of the South Koreans today, the human emotions, aspirations and frailties revealed are familiar to all of us.  As the readers are told in the first chapter that mom buys her eldest daughter the first book she owns in her life after selling a litter of puppies, the daughter’s choice of Human, All Too Human seems to foretell the lament with which the readers will greet the ending.  This book has the power to elicit my deepest sympathies and moved me to abundant tears.

 

 

This book has been recommended by the Guardian’s World Literature Tour.

Indonesia – The Rainbow Troops

Indonesia – The Rainbow Troops

By Andrea Hirata Laskar Pelangi, meaning the Rainbow Troops in Indonesian, is a title that conveys hope.  In this autobiographical novel, Andrea Hirata tells readers about a childhood in the struggling village school of Muhammadiyah Elementary in Beilitong, an island province in Indonesia that had 

Indonesia – Dieng

Indonesia – Dieng

Dieng might not be a prime destination in Indonesia for foreign tourists.  It may have to do more so with its smell than any other reason, as the mountainous region is known for its naturally occurring sulfur lakes. On our way we met many savoring 

Indonesia – Mount Merapi

Indonesia – Mount Merapi

We went to the Ketep pass for a view of Mount Merapi.  The Merapi is still active today and we were advised not to climb it.  The last eruption took place two years ago.  The driver took us to see the face of the volcano at vista points. There was heavy rain, however, and we did not manage to see much of the view.

We then went to the awesome Moro Lejar (freshwater fish) restaurant for a grilled fish lunch.  It was very nice watching the rain pouring down like drawn curtains around us whilst we ate.  The bamboo-stilted quarters were set above water.  At the ponds we saw the largest and fattest carps that I have ever seen in my life, so big they looked almost like mini-sharks.  I wondered if the Indonesians eat them.  The Chinese people certainly do not, since they are symbols of wealth and prosperity.

The sun was soon to set so we rushed to the village of Bebung to see the ruinous rubbles caused by the Merapi eruption two years ago.  The village has been evacuated now, and it is fair to say that it was haunted.  There were two volunteers who were buried in the bunker by the debris from the eruption.  We walked around the barren landscape of a once populated village.  Legend has it that the village heads of these villages relied on their visions to tell if eruptions would threaten the lives of the villagers.  There was one miraculous time when the village head was right in predicting that the eruption would not touch the village and refused to evacuate.  Yet the second time around, he was wrong and the village was completely destroyed.

Illan said that in the last eruption none of the villagers died, as they all evacuated on time, but the two volunteers did not survive.  He also told us about the “hot clouds,” where clouds of hot dusts would move and devour everything along its path with heat.  The Lonely Planet said that at time of the eruption, the lava could gush down at 300 km per hour.  The place was haunting, not in the sense of the dead, but rather how ominous the mountain was, having the enormous power of destruction in its path throughout this area.

We left with an utmost feeling of eeriness and returned home.

 

     

Indonesia – Borobodur

Indonesia – Borobodur

The Borobodur temple complex is recognized as a world heritage by the UNESCO.  Built in the 7th century (AD750-850), it is a Buddhist temple made wholly of stones.  The complex is shaped in a square, with four levels and stone carved bas relief depicting each