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Of Water and Cheese – The Lausanne Cathedral

Of Water and Cheese – The Lausanne Cathedral

The Lausanne Cathedral stands at the highest point of Lausanne’s Old Town.  Overlooking the City of Lausanne, the Cathedral enables a view of the Lake and the Alps afar as well.  Its long history furthermore provides a vantage point of spiritual and cultural significance. The …

The Pineapple Dam Nature Trail

The Pineapple Dam Nature Trail

We are expecting an epidemic in Hong Kong.  As the city is half-paralyzed due to a government shutdown, and the malls are no longer safe to visit, what is there to do but to visit the countryside? On this chilly winter morning, my friends and …

Of Water and Cheese – First Impressions of Switzerland

Of Water and Cheese – First Impressions of Switzerland

24 hours later, I arrived in Geneva.

Despite it being the hub of international and diplomatic missions, the Geneva airport was down to earth, or perhaps too primitive for the cosmopolitan reputation of the city.  There were two lines at the Geneva airport.  One for Euro passport holders, and the other for all others.  Yet I was out at the carousel in no time.  Switzerland’s first impression of efficiency taught me a lesson: it is the essence rather than the appearance that matters.

My cousin came to pick me up at Geneva and we were on our way to our first stop: the Coop, a supermarket chain and department store in Switzerland.

And, I have never seen such an extensive cheese counter in my life.

The cheese racks seemed to be never ending, displaying many kinds that I was not familiar with.  I could recognize just a few species of cheese there: raclette, gouda and mozarella.  The message was clear though: cheese is a big part of Swiss cuisine.

Not surprisingly, there was also an impressive counter of chocolates.  The chocolate brands were recognizable to me, though not its varieties.  Still, the chocolate counter was no way near the never-ending cheese.

At 5-10 degrees during the day, the still-snowy landscape was remarkably different from what I saw at Heathrow of England.  Spring should have ushered in signs of warmth, or perhaps nascent growth in plants.  Yet the barren trees bespeak a winter that lingered, dreary and yet-awakened from its hibernation.  There were plenty of trees as we went by the wine region of Morges.  It was the rest season for planting.  Yet it took just a little imagination to picture the lush growth of grapevines in warmer times.

The nature of this country, with the eternal presence of the French Alps across the lake, leaves not one trace of doubt that the four seasons are distinctive.  It is quite unlike the subtropical climate of Hong Kong.

Indeed, nature stares us in our face here—and it is beautiful, and you cannot escape this beauty anywhere you go in Switzerland.

 

All That Taz – The Pack of Thieves? At Port Arthur

All That Taz – The Pack of Thieves? At Port Arthur

A lesson in Australia’s history would not be complete without the history of Port Arthur.  It began in the 1880s as a penal colony.  Then lieutenant governor of Van Diemen’s Land, George Arthur, established Port Arthur as a settlement for the most incorrigible, repeated offenders …

All That Taz – Natural Wonders

All That Taz – Natural Wonders

Generous sunshine blessed our last day in Tasmania.  We were on our way to Port Arthur.  However, we detoured and stopped by a number of interesting natural sites.   The Tasman Arch The Tasman Arch began as a small sea cave.  Constant sea waves formed …

The China Café Bids Its Farewell

The China Café Bids Its Farewell

 

You don’t know what you got till it’s gone, and that is the story of the China Café.  I visited this old-schooled, Hong Kong styled café on December 28th, 2019.  This is one of its very last days before saying goodbye to Hong Kong.  Located in Canton Road, the China Café is a hidden gem amidst a typical street stall scene in Mong Kok.

I like to call these “bing sutts” “tea deli.”  But perhaps the word “café” is just as true to the experience of dining in these “bing sutts.”

The cafés are part and parcel of daily life in Hong Kong.  They are the place to be when someone does not have any particular food in mind but needing a quick fix at the same time.  The menu items are similar in these cafés.  There are the “quick sets,” which usually include an instant noodle with spam and egg item, or some kind of meat, or a combination of both, with tea or coffee.  There are the “common sets,” which usually feature a dish of fried noodles, fried rice, or meat with gravy on rice.  Tea or coffee follows, and the prices usually range between $40 to $60.  Those who are opting for a light snack can pick the afternoon tea sets.  They usually come with a pineapple bun and a generous slab of butter, or chicken wings, or an egg and beef sandwich, or a club sandwich.

To me, the top attraction at these cafés is always a nice, dark-brewed cup of Hong Kong milk tea.

China Café first opened its door in 1964, and it has witnessed a good 55 years of Hong Kong.  From the outside its “gold plated plaque”[i](picture above) reflects clearly the era that it stands for.  The glass case next to its door displays the very goodies that will fulfill the palate of its patrons.  In the same vein, the walls and the floor inside are lined with colorful tiles, themed to the 1960s.  Two hanging fans mount from the ceiling. As they spin one seems to see the times when (usually old) people would sit down at these cafés bright and early in the morning.  They read newspapers on one hand and drank milk tea on the other.  Or perhaps the younger generation will remember scenes from Hong Kong movies that were set in this very site.

     

 

Reports suggested that China Café experienced difficulty in business and that is why it is closing.  Yet in its last days, the China Café had many customers lining up all the way till its closing hour (which is in the afternoon.)  I was one of them, and many came with their cameras like I did.

I ordered a Kaya toast with milk tea.  There was a very long wait for my snack, but that was fine.  I wanted to share in this nostalgia for as long as I could.  The Kaya is a spread made from coconut paste, Pandan leaf and eggs, the waiter told me.  It is native to Malaysia, and relatively few Hong Kong cafés serve the Kaya now.  Other famous menu items are the fried egg and beef sandwich, roast pork noodles, and pineapple bun with butter.

Finally, sitting at the table not far from me upstairs was actor Lam Suet, who starred in the Hong Kong movie PTU.  This was one of the movies that was set in the China Cafe.  This nostalgia was real.

Reference:

Jenny Leung, Time Out Hong Kong, One of Hong Kong’s Last Remaining Traditional Cafes Closes Down After 55 Years.

[i] The “gold plated plaque” is a direct translation of the Cantonese phrase referring to a longstanding, established name brand, store or restaurant.

All That Taz – The Wineglass Bay and Kate’s Berry Farm

All That Taz – The Wineglass Bay and Kate’s Berry Farm

In our last full day in Tasmania, we visited the Wineglass Bay lookout.  Note, though, that we did not visit the beach.  The tour guide told us that the hike down the beach was very rigorous, going more than two to three hours each way.  …

All That Taz – The Salamanca Market and the MONA

All That Taz – The Salamanca Market and the MONA

The Jackman McRoss was a local bakery just a stone’s throw away from the Montacute.  We decided to get our breakfast there, since all tourist sources recommended it.  It clearly was a local favorite.  We felt the energy of the place as soon as we …

The Columns of Wonder

The Columns of Wonder

The Hong Kong UNESCO Global GeoPark remembers Hong Kong in a way that none of us does.  Hexagonal rock columns line the slopes at the Eastern Dam of the High Island Reservoir in Sai Kung.  They span a total area of 100 square kilometers including sea areas.  Rows and rows of these rock formations surround the buffer zone of the reservoir.  They are the living testaments of Hong Kong’s pre-settlement history.

Back in those pre-settlement days, there were active volcanoes in Hong Kong.  Eruptions of these volcanoes 140 million years ago have made possible the forming of these columns.  The following is a description of how they formed:

“Whenever there was an eruption, great lava flows gushed out along with scorching volcanic ash. They spread across the ground surface and formed lava layers. During the cooling period, the rock contracted very uniformly and gave rise to the marvelous hexagonal columnar joints seen today.”[i]

The vertical columns already create a magnificent testament of the geological movements hundreds of millions of years ago.  Yet nature has not stopped there.  Subsequently, movements in the earth has created a bent to the vertical columns into “S” shapes:

 

And the description explains this phenomenon thus:

“When the hexagonal rock columns were first formed, they cooled down slowly inside the caldera.  Their texture would have been similar to that of putty.  Most probably earthquakes or regional subsidence caused them to become contorted into the S-shape columns seen here.”[ii]

I highly recommend the GeoPark to any nature enthusiasts travelling to Hong Kong.  The hexagonal columns, as a non-basaltic kind, is really quite unique to the hexagonal columns in the world.[iii]

Surely, one visiting the area would be drawn to the columnar formations, but there are a few other wonders worth seeing at the site.  Lying at the very end of the trail at the buffer zone is the Sea Cave.  It was formed from the erosion of the waves.  The construction of the coffer dam has shielded the area from the consistent erosion of sea waves so the cave remains a cave, instead of a sea arch.

One can also see afar the Po Pin Chau, a stack island that split from the mainland due to the erosion of sea waves.  It now shows a steep cliff.

Finally, the East Dam’s coffer dam itself is an infrastructural wonder.  It is lined and protected by thousands of t-shaped dolos blocks, made of concrete and weighing 25 tons each.  When you arrive at the long upper edge of the dam, you will see a giant blue dolos block that commemorates those who died in the construction of this dam.  An Italian firm constructed the dam.

For a leisurely stroll in the area with time to read the exhibits, one should reserve at least 1.5 to 2 hours.  A gentle but crucial reminder to visitors: if you are travelling during the summer, two bottles of water would not suffice.  Bring three at least.  The area has very few shades throughout, and even though the walk is very short, it does involve a strenuous climb up.  Therefore, be certain to bring a hat and a number of bottled water with you.

This following is perhaps the best way to get to the area:

  1. At Pak Tam Chung, take a green taxi. Tell the driver you are going to the East Dam of High Island Reservoir.  If no taxi’s are at the stand, you might have to call one.  One-way from Pak Tam Chung should cost you less than $75.
  2. Taxi back is even trickier, especially if you are leaving at around 3 to 4pm because that is when the taxi drivers change shifts. Watch the time, and try to leave before 3pm.  That is when there is a good chance that taxis can take you back after they drop off other tourists.  You most likely will have to call one, and if the driver asks for a top-up (some would ask for as much as double the cost), you might just have to pay it.

Do note that the area is off-bounds to private cars and the mini buses only go on the weekends.  On all my past visits I have taken taxi’s in.  After every visit, however, I thought it was well worth the trouble.  The scenery there never ceases to amaze me.

Finally, for the hikers, from Pak Tam Chung to hike to East Dam, the trail will take at least 3, 3.5 hours each way.

[i] Internationally rare acidic polygonal volcanic rock columns - High Island.

[ii] A Landmark Produced by an Exogenous Force, an introductory display at the GeoPark.

[iii] See 11 Beautiful Basalt Columns Around the World.

All That Taz – First Day in Hobart

All That Taz – First Day in Hobart

Hobart was a kind of place that opened up your mind.  We arrived into ample sunshine and a blue sky that spread wide and far above us.  The city was vast, and as the second oldest city of Australia, retained much of its antique character.  …