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Of Water and Cheese — Confiserie Tschirren

Of Water and Cheese — Confiserie Tschirren

On Kramgasse I passed by the Confiserie Tschirren before reaching the Albert Einstein Haus.  The window display left such an indelible impression that I decided to go back for a visit.  Just anything that I could afford from the bakery. Well, a cursory glance at 

Of Water and Cheese — Albert Einstein in Bern

Of Water and Cheese — Albert Einstein in Bern

Just as I wondered about the Albert Einstein Haus, its sign came into view.  Up the stairs I walked into the apartment area, where Albert Einstein once lived.  Then came a very unfriendly voice, “it’s not free!”  I then paid 6 CHF, though not without 

Of Water and Cheese — Curia Confoederationis Helveticae

Of Water and Cheese — Curia Confoederationis Helveticae

The day was overcast.  This characteristic burnt green, the signature color of the archaic buildings in the Altstadt (Old Town) of Bern, somehow matched this unfortunate gloom of the weather well.  I meant this as a praise.

After exiting the SBB station with no idea where I was, I took some time to orient myself with the cartoon map on the tour book.  My innate sense took me eastward, which as the general direction of the Old Town.

The first site I found was the magnificent Federal House, the Bundeshaus.  WH Auer designed the building “in a bold Neo-Renaissance style and completed in 1902.”  The Latin proudly at display says “Curia Confoederationis Helveticae.” It means the Federal Assembly (or Senate) of Switzerland.

Perhaps I should pause and explain this Latin phrase.  The old Swiss Confederacy dates to the late medieval period.  In 1291, the Federal Charter was born and served as the founding document of Switzerland.  The country was once part of the Holy Roman Empire, until 1648.[1]  Its Roman past was the reason for its use of Latin even in modern times.

Today, we often see Switzerland using the reference “CH.”  Its currency, the Swiss Franc, is officially CHF.  The Latin name “Confoederatio Helvetica” means the Swiss Confederacy.  Thus the common reference to Switzerland as CH, including website domains.  Using Latin in its official capacities, such as on stamps and coins, is Switzerland’s way to respect the country’s linguistic diversity.  In the Federal Senate, members hold sessions in the four languages of German, French, Italian and Romansch (a romance language of the Swiss minorities).[2]

Normally one could sign up for a tour to see the chambers, but the day was closed to visitors.  I wanted to see the Domed Hall, which was a main structure separating the National Council and the Council of States.  It was too bad, I thought.  Instead I snatched a free postcard featuring the Swiss Coat of Arms that was in the Domed Hall.  There was also the Latin Motto: Unus Pro Omnibus, Omnes Pro Uno, meaning “One for All, All for One.”

The building was grand and imposing.  Once outside, visitors would see a spectacular view of the River Aare, the bridges, and the over-the-distance suburban communities in plain view.  Next to the Federal Square was the National Bank of Switzerland on the eastern edge of the Plaza.

 

The very picturesque Altstadt streets was calm and pleasing in the morning.  I figured that I was on Kramgasse, distinguishable by the many statues serving as signposts along this main axis of the old town.  I turned around and the clock tower Zytglogge was right behind me.  There was restoration work during this winter season. It prevented me from taking a good look and a good picture.

[1] The Wikipedia on Switzerland.

[2] The Wikipedia on the Romansh language.

Of Water and Cheese — Sun-Soaked at Ouchy and Roman Lousonna

Of Water and Cheese — Sun-Soaked at Ouchy and Roman Lousonna

What’s better than writing on my journal at Ouchy under a warm afternoon sun, looking ahead at the French Alps? At the Place de Riponne I found the way to Ouchy by metro.  10 minutes later, it took me to the lakeside of Lake Geneva.  

Of Water and Cheese – Morning Walk at the Vieille Ville

Of Water and Cheese – Morning Walk at the Vieille Ville

I arrived at the Chauderon station this morning.  Not far ahead stood the eye-catching Rolex building on the block.  I remembered it from yesterday and knew that there would be a bit of walk to the Vieille Ville, the Old City of Lausanne.  Soon I 

The Walled City of Kowloon

The Walled City of Kowloon

The Walled City area had its beginning more than eight hundred years ago in the Song Dynasty.  The Kowloon City and the neighboring Kwun Tong area of Kowloon used to be salt fields.  With a decline in salt production, the salt industry eventually fell into disuse during the Yuan Dynasty.  The former salt office became a public security arm and a magistracy.

Till the Qing Dynasty, the officials installed the Kowloon Beacon Tower as a defense mechanism against the pirates in the area.  It turned out to serve a military purpose in guarding the Kowloon territory during the First Opium War.  The Qing Government established the Kowloon Battery in 1810. It would continue to defend the Kowloon Territory against the British forces in then-ceded Hong Kong Island.  In 1847, construction for the Walled City completed, intended originally to serve as a military stalwart in the wars to come.

In 1898, China had to lease the New Territories to Great Britain for 99 years.  According to the Second Convention of Peking, Chinese officials would retain jurisdiction of the Walled City.  However, after taking over the New Territories, Great Britain requested all Chinese officials to withdraw from the Walled City.  Despite protests by the Qing Government, the British declared the Order in Council, with view to exercise full governance of the Walled City.  Eventually, however, the British gave up control, and the Walled City entered into an un-governed state.

In 1948, British forces attempted to regain control of the Walled City. Widespread protests in Canton followed.  Then the Kowloon Walled City incident became a turning point.  Due to widespread protests that resulted in the burning of the British embassy in Canton, the British Government no longer attempted to reoccupy the Kowloon Walled City from then on.

In the first half of the 20th century, the Kowloon Walled City acquired the seedy reputation of a dark city.  Its walls were tight-proofed against the stellar economic and rule of law advances made in the rest of Hong Kong.  Prostitution, gambling and drugs were the known vices of humanity there.  Yet the cheap rent has also enabled a silver lining.  All kinds of industries, from flour mill to unlicensed dentists, found their survival within the Walled City.  In the 1970s, the Hong Kong government dedicated resources to fight crimes in the Kowloon Walled City, with significant results.  By the time of demolition in 1994, the Walled City was home to some 40,000 residents.

 

Eventually, the Walled City met, perhaps inevitably, the unhappy fate of being demolished.  Now a park commemorating this history of Hong Kong stands at the original site.  The yamen (the courthouse) is preserved for tourist visits.  Visitors will see a concise exhibition of the history of the Walled City.  Finally, the exhibition rooms are interactive, with fun display and videos showing the lives of the then residents within.

Sources:

Most of the historical descriptions in this entry were taken from the exhibition at the Kowloon Walled City Park.

As always, the Wikipedia has a wonderful and detailed historical account of the Kowloon Walled City and the Park.

Of Water and Cheese – The Lausanne Cathedral

Of Water and Cheese – The Lausanne Cathedral

The Lausanne Cathedral stands at the highest point of Lausanne’s Old Town.  Overlooking the City of Lausanne, the Cathedral enables a view of the Lake and the Alps afar as well.  Its long history furthermore provides a vantage point of spiritual and cultural significance. The 

The Pineapple Dam Nature Trail

The Pineapple Dam Nature Trail

We are expecting an epidemic in Hong Kong.  As the city is half-paralyzed due to a government shutdown, and the malls are no longer safe to visit, what is there to do but to visit the countryside? On this chilly winter morning, my friends and 

Of Water and Cheese – First Impressions of Switzerland

Of Water and Cheese – First Impressions of Switzerland

24 hours later, I arrived in Geneva.

Despite it being the hub of international and diplomatic missions, the Geneva airport was down to earth, or perhaps too primitive for the cosmopolitan reputation of the city.  There were two lines at the Geneva airport.  One for Euro passport holders, and the other for all others.  Yet I was out at the carousel in no time.  Switzerland’s first impression of efficiency taught me a lesson: it is the essence rather than the appearance that matters.

My cousin came to pick me up at Geneva and we were on our way to our first stop: the Coop, a supermarket chain and department store in Switzerland.

And, I have never seen such an extensive cheese counter in my life.

The cheese racks seemed to be never ending, displaying many kinds that I was not familiar with.  I could recognize just a few species of cheese there: raclette, gouda and mozarella.  The message was clear though: cheese is a big part of Swiss cuisine.

Not surprisingly, there was also an impressive counter of chocolates.  The chocolate brands were recognizable to me, though not its varieties.  Still, the chocolate counter was no way near the never-ending cheese.

At 5-10 degrees during the day, the still-snowy landscape was remarkably different from what I saw at Heathrow of England.  Spring should have ushered in signs of warmth, or perhaps nascent growth in plants.  Yet the barren trees bespeak a winter that lingered, dreary and yet-awakened from its hibernation.  There were plenty of trees as we went by the wine region of Morges.  It was the rest season for planting.  Yet it took just a little imagination to picture the lush growth of grapevines in warmer times.

The nature of this country, with the eternal presence of the French Alps across the lake, leaves not one trace of doubt that the four seasons are distinctive.  It is quite unlike the subtropical climate of Hong Kong.

Indeed, nature stares us in our face here—and it is beautiful, and you cannot escape this beauty anywhere you go in Switzerland.

 

All That Taz – The Pack of Thieves? At Port Arthur

All That Taz – The Pack of Thieves? At Port Arthur

A lesson in Australia’s history would not be complete without the history of Port Arthur.  It began in the 1880s as a penal colony.  Then lieutenant governor of Van Diemen’s Land, George Arthur, established Port Arthur as a settlement for the most incorrigible, repeated offenders