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Tai Ping Koon and its Sweet Swiss Sauce

Tai Ping Koon and its Sweet Swiss Sauce

There is this idea of a “Hong Kong Style Western Cuisine.”  Its roots go back to the late 19th century, when many foreigners did business in Hong Kong.  Thus the demand for western cuisine.  In the beginning, only foreigners dined at these western restaurants, but 

Of Water and Cheese — Zentrum Paul Klee

Of Water and Cheese — Zentrum Paul Klee

By 3pm, the winter day at Bern was waning.  I debated where to go as I wandered randomly in town.  Bus 12 just passed by me, going to Zentrum Paul Klee and so I hopped on.  Having crossed through the town and onward to its 

Of Water and Cheese — A Climb Up the Műnster St. Vinzenz

Of Water and Cheese — A Climb Up the Műnster St. Vinzenz

I went almost out of town, and finally turned to Postgasse to see the Rathaus and the church.  I then turned to Műnstergasse.  Finally, clearly in view was the Műnster St Vinzenz, the crown jewel of Bern.

As with usual, I paid a spiritual tribute and enjoyed the organ music.  As I was preparing to leave, I spotted a narrow door that opened up to a never-ending flight of stairs up.  It would lead to the very apex of the cathedral tower.  There was not a split second of doubt – I paid 5 CHF to climb it.

The climb, to say the least, was rigorous.  Yet unlike the popular Pisa in Italy, there were very few tourists trailing behind.  As a result, I could take my time.  About three quarters of the way, however, I started to regret my decision.  My knees clattered, not so much due to the strenuousness as a fear that began to take over me.  I have never known myself to fear height.  However, at that altitude, even the very slim stone openings on the outer wall gave enough sense of the height that I started to feel a panic.  The thought of an even more breathtaking view strengthened my resolve.  I clutched onto the inner rail and marched on.

Overall I took four breaks sitting down, at the same time trying to re-orient myself against the fear.  The climb was a battle of the will.

Once up at the top, however, I gathered myself in the open and crisp air.  I was standing at the tallest church tower of Switzerland.  With secure railing all around me, the fear dissipated.  Then I strike up a conversation with a mid-aged lady and learned that there was more.  The additional flight of steps would take me up the apex of the steeple.  I guesstimated that there were about 50 to 70 more step s to climb.  I might as well do it!

On my way I saw another guy.  He told me, “it was good up there, though the view is not much different!”  Well, as far as I could see, the view was better there.  I savored the aerial view of Bern, far away onto the Swiss Alps.  All of Aare River was below me.  I felt as if I was on the tiptoe of a fall – into love with this beautiful city.

There were 250 steps, not including the final flight to the steeple.  As I came down, I had the feeling that I have conquered fear.

Back, firmly grounded, I went on to Marktgasse looking for food.  There were many options on this street.  It hummed with economic activities with many shops, restaurants and pedestrians.  I did notice the multitudes of apothecaries in the Altstadt, but never found the answer.

I had hoped for a cheap sandwich, which was available at the COOP and its restaurants.  Yet there was nowhere on this street I could sit peacefully for takeouts.  Finally, on a side street with a strip of restaurants, I found an immigrant-run creperie.  I picked the only thing I could read – a mozzarella tomato with salad sandwich, and a cup of coffee.  All for 10 CHF.

Of Water and Cheese — Confiserie Tschirren

Of Water and Cheese — Confiserie Tschirren

On Kramgasse I passed by the Confiserie Tschirren before reaching the Albert Einstein Haus.  The window display left such an indelible impression that I decided to go back for a visit.  Just anything that I could afford from the bakery. Well, a cursory glance at 

Of Water and Cheese — Albert Einstein in Bern

Of Water and Cheese — Albert Einstein in Bern

Just as I wondered about the Albert Einstein Haus, its sign came into view.  Up the stairs I walked into the apartment area, where Albert Einstein once lived.  Then came a very unfriendly voice, “it’s not free!”  I then paid 6 CHF, though not without 

Of Water and Cheese — Curia Confoederationis Helveticae

Of Water and Cheese — Curia Confoederationis Helveticae

The day was overcast.  This characteristic burnt green, the signature color of the archaic buildings in the Altstadt (Old Town) of Bern, somehow matched this unfortunate gloom of the weather well.  I meant this as a praise.

After exiting the SBB station with no idea where I was, I took some time to orient myself with the cartoon map on the tour book.  My innate sense took me eastward, which as the general direction of the Old Town.

The first site I found was the magnificent Federal House, the Bundeshaus.  WH Auer designed the building “in a bold Neo-Renaissance style and completed in 1902.”  The Latin proudly at display says “Curia Confoederationis Helveticae.” It means the Federal Assembly (or Senate) of Switzerland.

Perhaps I should pause and explain this Latin phrase.  The old Swiss Confederacy dates to the late medieval period.  In 1291, the Federal Charter was born and served as the founding document of Switzerland.  The country was once part of the Holy Roman Empire, until 1648.[1]  Its Roman past was the reason for its use of Latin even in modern times.

Today, we often see Switzerland using the reference “CH.”  Its currency, the Swiss Franc, is officially CHF.  The Latin name “Confoederatio Helvetica” means the Swiss Confederacy.  Thus the common reference to Switzerland as CH, including website domains.  Using Latin in its official capacities, such as on stamps and coins, is Switzerland’s way to respect the country’s linguistic diversity.  In the Federal Senate, members hold sessions in the four languages of German, French, Italian and Romansch (a romance language of the Swiss minorities).[2]

Normally one could sign up for a tour to see the chambers, but the day was closed to visitors.  I wanted to see the Domed Hall, which was a main structure separating the National Council and the Council of States.  It was too bad, I thought.  Instead I snatched a free postcard featuring the Swiss Coat of Arms that was in the Domed Hall.  There was also the Latin Motto: Unus Pro Omnibus, Omnes Pro Uno, meaning “One for All, All for One.”

The building was grand and imposing.  Once outside, visitors would see a spectacular view of the River Aare, the bridges, and the over-the-distance suburban communities in plain view.  Next to the Federal Square was the National Bank of Switzerland on the eastern edge of the Plaza.

 

The very picturesque Altstadt streets was calm and pleasing in the morning.  I figured that I was on Kramgasse, distinguishable by the many statues serving as signposts along this main axis of the old town.  I turned around and the clock tower Zytglogge was right behind me.  There was restoration work during this winter season. It prevented me from taking a good look and a good picture.

[1] The Wikipedia on Switzerland.

[2] The Wikipedia on the Romansh language.

Of Water and Cheese — Sun-Soaked at Ouchy and Roman Lousonna

Of Water and Cheese — Sun-Soaked at Ouchy and Roman Lousonna

What’s better than writing on my journal at Ouchy under a warm afternoon sun, looking ahead at the French Alps? At the Place de Riponne I found the way to Ouchy by metro.  10 minutes later, it took me to the lakeside of Lake Geneva.  

Of Water and Cheese – Morning Walk at the Vieille Ville

Of Water and Cheese – Morning Walk at the Vieille Ville

I arrived at the Chauderon station this morning.  Not far ahead stood the eye-catching Rolex building on the block.  I remembered it from yesterday and knew that there would be a bit of walk to the Vieille Ville, the Old City of Lausanne.  Soon I 

The Walled City of Kowloon

The Walled City of Kowloon

The Walled City area had its beginning more than eight hundred years ago in the Song Dynasty.  The Kowloon City and the neighboring Kwun Tong area of Kowloon used to be salt fields.  With a decline in salt production, the salt industry eventually fell into disuse during the Yuan Dynasty.  The former salt office became a public security arm and a magistracy.

Till the Qing Dynasty, the officials installed the Kowloon Beacon Tower as a defense mechanism against the pirates in the area.  It turned out to serve a military purpose in guarding the Kowloon territory during the First Opium War.  The Qing Government established the Kowloon Battery in 1810. It would continue to defend the Kowloon Territory against the British forces in then-ceded Hong Kong Island.  In 1847, construction for the Walled City completed, intended originally to serve as a military stalwart in the wars to come.

In 1898, China had to lease the New Territories to Great Britain for 99 years.  According to the Second Convention of Peking, Chinese officials would retain jurisdiction of the Walled City.  However, after taking over the New Territories, Great Britain requested all Chinese officials to withdraw from the Walled City.  Despite protests by the Qing Government, the British declared the Order in Council, with view to exercise full governance of the Walled City.  Eventually, however, the British gave up control, and the Walled City entered into an un-governed state.

In 1948, British forces attempted to regain control of the Walled City. Widespread protests in Canton followed.  Then the Kowloon Walled City incident became a turning point.  Due to widespread protests that resulted in the burning of the British embassy in Canton, the British Government no longer attempted to reoccupy the Kowloon Walled City from then on.

In the first half of the 20th century, the Kowloon Walled City acquired the seedy reputation of a dark city.  Its walls were tight-proofed against the stellar economic and rule of law advances made in the rest of Hong Kong.  Prostitution, gambling and drugs were the known vices of humanity there.  Yet the cheap rent has also enabled a silver lining.  All kinds of industries, from flour mill to unlicensed dentists, found their survival within the Walled City.  In the 1970s, the Hong Kong government dedicated resources to fight crimes in the Kowloon Walled City, with significant results.  By the time of demolition in 1994, the Walled City was home to some 40,000 residents.

 

Eventually, the Walled City met, perhaps inevitably, the unhappy fate of being demolished.  Now a park commemorating this history of Hong Kong stands at the original site.  The yamen (the courthouse) is preserved for tourist visits.  Visitors will see a concise exhibition of the history of the Walled City.  Finally, the exhibition rooms are interactive, with fun display and videos showing the lives of the then residents within.

Sources:

Most of the historical descriptions in this entry were taken from the exhibition at the Kowloon Walled City Park.

As always, the Wikipedia has a wonderful and detailed historical account of the Kowloon Walled City and the Park.

Of Water and Cheese – The Lausanne Cathedral

Of Water and Cheese – The Lausanne Cathedral

The Lausanne Cathedral stands at the highest point of Lausanne’s Old Town.  Overlooking the City of Lausanne, the Cathedral enables a view of the Lake and the Alps afar as well.  Its long history furthermore provides a vantage point of spiritual and cultural significance. The