The street scenes of Bern left an everlasting impression on my mind.  At first sight of Bern, I was surprised by its colors.  The main color is a burnt green, consistently present in most of the sandstone buildings in the Altstadt.  This burnt green is a shade lighter, and creamier, than the camouflage green used in the U.S. army.  The buildings look very elegant.  It is a kind of color that gives an aged vibe, perfectly befitting to Bern being a city that has stood the test of time.

Yet on top of the Műnster St Vinzenz, I looked onto a completely different impression of Bern.  The tops of the buildings are all in red.  The warm hue seemed to express welcome, quite unlike the slightly colder tone of burnt green as I observed on the ground.

As compared to the Vieille Ville of Lausanne, Bern showed a clear sense of order and planning.  Not to say that Lausanne was disorderly, it was just not the same precision with which the German-speaking Bern built its old town.

Perhaps Lausanne was not a good comparison to the capital of Switzerland.  The founder of Bern was Berthold V, Duke of Zahringen.  Legend had it that he decided to name the settlement after the first animal that he hunted.  It turned out to be a bear (Bär) and thus Bärn was the name of this settlement.  In 1353, Bern joined the Swiss Confederation.

A fire destroyed Bern’s then timber-made buildings in 1405.  Thereafter its people rebuilt the town in stone, and thus, the beautiful sandstone buildings we see today in this archaic city.  According to my guide book, the town has retained its character since.  In 1528, the Bernese declared itself Protestant.  It has since brought Protestantism to other regions in Switzerland, including Lausanne.

The cobbled streets of Bern were once treaded upon by the troops of Napoleon, who made, in the history of Switzerland, the only invasion ever into this country in 1798.  In 1848, Bern was chosen as the federal capital of Switzerland.

Many beautiful statues and fountains dot along Bern’s main streets.  They are the landmarks with which tourists can distinguish between the many seemingly identical rows of green sandstone buildings.  By the time I was back in town from Zentrum Paul Klee, I thought I had seen Bern.  My final walk was to the oldest church in Bern and the Kornhaus, which used to serve as a granary but now a cultural center.  The train for Lausanne departed at 5:40pm and I duly came back to the home base at 6:18.  What a fulfilling day in the capital of Switzerland.

I did not do very much research on the history of Bern before or after my trip.  I do think though that what I have written here suffice in terms of learning about the capital of Switzerland (and it’s not Geneva or Zurich!)  The Altstadt is an incredibly pleasant walk.  My only regret was that the Zytglogge closed for renovation.  If given a chance, I would visit Bern again just to see it.

The historical descriptions of this entry came from DK Eyewitness Travel Switzerland.

I went almost out of town, and finally turned to Postgasse to see the Rathaus and the church.  I then turned to Műnstergasse.  Finally, clearly in view was the Műnster St Vinzenz, the crown jewel of Bern.

As with usual, I paid a spiritual tribute and enjoyed the organ music.  As I was preparing to leave, I spotted a narrow door that opened up to a never-ending flight of stairs up.  It would lead to the very apex of the cathedral tower.  There was not a split second of doubt – I paid 5 CHF to climb it.

The climb, to say the least, was rigorous.  Yet unlike the popular Pisa in Italy, there were very few tourists trailing behind.  As a result, I could take my time.  About three quarters of the way, however, I started to regret my decision.  My knees clattered, not so much due to the strenuousness as a fear that began to take over me.  I have never known myself to fear height.  However, at that altitude, even the very slim stone openings on the outer wall gave enough sense of the height that I started to feel a panic.  The thought of an even more breathtaking view strengthened my resolve.  I clutched onto the inner rail and marched on.

Overall I took four breaks sitting down, at the same time trying to re-orient myself against the fear.  The climb was a battle of the will.

Once up at the top, however, I gathered myself in the open and crisp air.  I was standing at the tallest church tower of Switzerland.  With secure railing all around me, the fear dissipated.  Then I strike up a conversation with a mid-aged lady and learned that there was more.  The additional flight of steps would take me up the apex of the steeple.  I guesstimated that there were about 50 to 70 more step s to climb.  I might as well do it!

On my way I saw another guy.  He told me, “it was good up there, though the view is not much different!”  Well, as far as I could see, the view was better there.  I savored the aerial view of Bern, far away onto the Swiss Alps.  All of Aare River was below me.  I felt as if I was on the tiptoe of a fall – into love with this beautiful city.

There were 250 steps, not including the final flight to the steeple.  As I came down, I had the feeling that I have conquered fear.

Back, firmly grounded, I went on to Marktgasse looking for food.  There were many options on this street.  It hummed with economic activities with many shops, restaurants and pedestrians.  I did notice the multitudes of apothecaries in the Altstadt, but never found the answer.

I had hoped for a cheap sandwich, which was available at the COOP and its restaurants.  Yet there was nowhere on this street I could sit peacefully for takeouts.  Finally, on a side street with a strip of restaurants, I found an immigrant-run creperie.  I picked the only thing I could read – a mozzarella tomato with salad sandwich, and a cup of coffee.  All for 10 CHF.

The day was overcast.  This characteristic burnt green, the signature color of the archaic buildings in the Altstadt (Old Town) of Bern, somehow matched this unfortunate gloom of the weather well.  I meant this as a praise.

After exiting the SBB station with no idea where I was, I took some time to orient myself with the cartoon map on the tour book.  My innate sense took me eastward, which as the general direction of the Old Town.

The first site I found was the magnificent Federal House, the Bundeshaus.  WH Auer designed the building “in a bold Neo-Renaissance style and completed in 1902.”  The Latin proudly at display says “Curia Confoederationis Helveticae.” It means the Federal Assembly (or Senate) of Switzerland.

Perhaps I should pause and explain this Latin phrase.  The old Swiss Confederacy dates to the late medieval period.  In 1291, the Federal Charter was born and served as the founding document of Switzerland.  The country was once part of the Holy Roman Empire, until 1648.[1]  Its Roman past was the reason for its use of Latin even in modern times.

Today, we often see Switzerland using the reference “CH.”  Its currency, the Swiss Franc, is officially CHF.  The Latin name “Confoederatio Helvetica” means the Swiss Confederacy.  Thus the common reference to Switzerland as CH, including website domains.  Using Latin in its official capacities, such as on stamps and coins, is Switzerland’s way to respect the country’s linguistic diversity.  In the Federal Senate, members hold sessions in the four languages of German, French, Italian and Romansch (a romance language of the Swiss minorities).[2]

Normally one could sign up for a tour to see the chambers, but the day was closed to visitors.  I wanted to see the Domed Hall, which was a main structure separating the National Council and the Council of States.  It was too bad, I thought.  Instead I snatched a free postcard featuring the Swiss Coat of Arms that was in the Domed Hall.  There was also the Latin Motto: Unus Pro Omnibus, Omnes Pro Uno, meaning “One for All, All for One.”

The building was grand and imposing.  Once outside, visitors would see a spectacular view of the River Aare, the bridges, and the over-the-distance suburban communities in plain view.  Next to the Federal Square was the National Bank of Switzerland on the eastern edge of the Plaza.

The very picturesque Altstadt streets was calm and pleasing in the morning.  I figured that I was on Kramgasse, distinguishable by the many statues serving as signposts along this main axis of the old town.  I turned around and the clock tower Zytglogge was right behind me.  There was restoration work during this winter season. It prevented me from taking a good look and a good picture.

[1] The Wikipedia on Switzerland.

[2] The Wikipedia on the Romansh language.