From the Kiyomizu-dera Temple I headed toward the direction of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine. I was quite tired, as in this day I have visited the Nijo Castle and have had to bear the cold at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. I pressed on, however, as I wanted to see as much as possible on this trip.

After dinner, I made it to Yasaka-jinja Shrine, which had been known as the Gion Shrine at an earlier time.

The History of Yasaka-jinja Shrine

The deity being enshrined at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is Susanoo as its kami, amongst others. Kami refers to a deity or a supernatural power that is revered as god and inhabits in nature. The Yasaka-jinja Shrine was originally named Gion Shrine, dedicated to Shinto, which is considered a native faith in Japan.

Shinto is polytheistic and animistic. Worshippers practice the principles of purity, as shown in their cleaning rituals. Other rituals include dance, rites of passage and kami festivals. Followers of the faith will offer food and drinks to the deities, and priests officiated some of the shrines as well.

Visitors should take away from a visit in the Kiyomizu-dera Temple and a visit to the Yasaka-jinja Shrine an appreciation of the distinctiveness of these two venues as places of worship. Of course, there are already the difference in their designation—shrines are for Shinto and temples are for Buddhism. The shrines are where the spirits of the deities actually reside in, whereas the temples are where the monks gather to live and study Buddhist doctrines together. There also come differences in the nature and the origins of the deities being venerated and the philosophical foundations upon which these faiths rest. Finally, the distinction between Shinto and Buddhism stand to attest a long history of animosity against foreign influence, in even as recent as the Meiji period.

Although Shinto and Buddhism were viewed and practiced as one and the same for many centuries, there was a notable, official separation of the two faiths in the early Meiji period (as one instance of the anti-Buddhism movement). Kami worship might have existed in Japan as early as 300 B.C, while Buddhism entered Japan between 300 and 538 A.D. Buddhism, despite being a celebrated faith in Japan now, was not indigenous in Japan.

The official website of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine suggests that the origin of the shrine is subject to a few different theories. It is believed that Susanoo was introduced into Kyoto by Irishi, an errand from Korea. The official books at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine determine that the shrine has existed as early as the year 656, which was before the Heian period, when the capital of Japan was relocated to Kyoto from Nara in 794 A.D.

Furthermore, the Yasaka-jinja Shrine had imperial patronage during the mid-Heian period. The deities of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine were considered the official patron saints of Kyoto in those times. There was an epidemic in Kyoto in 869 A.D. It was believed that prayers to the deities at Yasaka-jinja Shrine had cast out the evil and stopped the epidemic. The Gion Festival originated from this historical event.

The Yasaka-jinja Shrine Today

In Kyoto, the Gion Shrine was a beloved site for the locals. They call it Gion San, as an endearing name for the shrine. The site is very crowded during the New Years, as with the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine (which I did not have a chance to visit in this trip).

Every year, the shrine holds the Migoshi Togyo, meaning the procession of the portable shrine, as the celebration of the Gion Festival. It takes place on the nights of July 17 and 24. On July 17, 3 Migoshi’s (the portable shrines) will be taken for display at Otabisho in downtown Kyoto. It is believed that these shrines carry the deities with them and will bless everyone on the way of the parade. After sitting in Otabisho for a week, the portable shrines return to Yasaka-jinja Shrine on July 24.

Perhaps what caught my attention at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is a whole section of the shrine dedicated to romantic relationships (with matchmaking prayers). Daikoku-sha is where the faithful gather to pray for a good relationship with their loved ones.

Night visit at the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is possible, and therefore if you are very crunched for time, look to visit the Yasaka Shrine in the evening, when some other popular shrines typically close at 5pm.

Nepalese Cuisine in Kyoto

As to the heartwarming dinner that I had after leaving the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, I wanted something along the lines of curry and found Namaste Dhaula Giri on 80 Tamamizucho. This is the main throughway between the Kiyomizu-dera Temple and generally the Gion district.

Besides the sheer authenticity of the Nepalese food being served, I also enjoyed the atmosphere in the restaurant. Needless to say, this type of food likely resonates more so with the foreigner population in Kyoto than the locals. I felt very much at home there ordering in English and behaving in the typical foreigner’s way. It felt festive, lively and warm in the restaurant, and that was what I needed after freezing at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple for the night scenery viewing.

A Stroll in Gion

Across the street from the Yasaka-jinja Shrine is the Gion, made popular as the district for Japan’s geisha’s. Not that I really thought I would see a geisha or two there, but there was a slight feeling of disappointment in that I did not see any.

Suffice to say, the traditional wooden machiya merchant houses in Gion sent some pretty good vibes. But it was cold and quiet when I visited, I daresay I saw less than ten souls there. It was good enough to say that I had been there.

Sources

The official website of the Yasaka-jinja Shrine.

The Wikipedia on Shinto.

The Wikipedia on Yasaka Shrine.

Walk Around in Kyoto, A Complete Guide to the Yasaka Shrine.

The Japan Wikipedia on Yasaka-jinja Shrine.

The plane touched down at Kansai Airport and I looked for the train ride to Osaka. The plan, originally, was to stay that evening in a hotel in Osaka, then the next morning I would see Osaka Castle before heading out to Kyoto.

I saw a ticketing station when I just came out of the airport. The ticketing booths sold JR tickets, and naturally I bought a JR ticket, although there would have been (slower but cheaper) trains on the Kansai Airport Rapid trains (Nankai Rapids) to Osaka, for which I could have paid with the Suica Card.

As it turned out, I purchased the ticket for the Limited Express Haruka train, which presented Hello Kitty, Japan’s sweet ambassador. This boded well for my trip. It brought up pleasant childhood memories seeing the most enduring icon of Sanrio. Hello Kitty was my very first encounter with Japanese culture, and it brought forth a fuzzy sweetness.

The Osaka Metro

It took maybe about an hour for me to reach Osaka station. It was well into the night when I arrived, so I could not quite see what Osaka was like outside.

Inside the metro, however, I saw an urban scene that was very familiar. It appeared that a lot of commuters were going home. Tickets in, tickets out, people hurried through the station minding their own business. It could have been anywhere in the world, really, that the motions of life take its pre-programmed course, automated in a foot traffic that runs a mindless rhythm until one reaches his destination. No one paid attention to anything, perhaps not even to himself.

Serving a population of 2.75 million in Osaka, the Osaka Metro is the integral part of the extensive mass transit railway system of Greater Osaka. This network of metro transit system reaches eastward to Kyoto and extends westward to Kobe, consisting of more than 1,000 stations. I noticed that some stations seemed slightly tired. Indeed, the Midosuji Line that runs through Umeda Station began its service in 1933, the second oldest metro line in Japan.

My First Ever Japanese Meal in Japan

I then made it to a mall at Umeda to have the very first Japanese meal in Japan in my life. I opted for grilled beef bento at Romantei Lucua at the Umeda Station, and, while it was not too bad, I was a little disappointed.

“Once you have had Japanese food in Japan, you would never want any Japanese food outside of Japan,” so I was told by numerous friends. Good food is expected at even the most unlikely, humblest of all places, such as the kombini’s (convenience stores), and at any kind of food court. This first grilled beef I had was not too bad, the quality of the meat was fair. The temperature was right, it was cooked to medium rare, and there was marble on the beef. But something was missing, namely, basic flavor. It tasted bland at the first bite. I added a whole lot of furikake powder, dipped it in the sauces, and it tasted better.

Well, as it turned out, the food I had in my first trip in Japan was the only, and single most, disappointing experience. Even at that first dinner in Osaka, I figured that I was simply too accustomed to the Japanese food that was adapted to local preferences, and that was why I always loved having Japanese food wherever I lived. There will be more on Japanese food on a later entry.

Hotel Keihan Tenmabashi

The hotel of the evening was the Hotel Keihan Tenmabashi in Tenmabashi. I booked this hotel because it was within walking distance of the Osaka Castle. The hotel room was clean and petite with a whole lot of free toiletries for guests to take freely.

I was so excited at my first night in Japan that I could not fall asleep. When I used to tell my Hong Kong friends that I had never been to Japan previously, they looked at me with disbelief. In 2023, the Japanese Yen was at its historic low and I thought it was the perfect opportunity to see it, finally.

Osaka was good to me. I had no trouble understanding how the metro worked and people were courteous. They did also understand my English as well. I already knew that I would have incredible memories in Kansai.