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Old-Time Vietnam – First Impressions of Hue

Old-Time Vietnam – First Impressions of Hue

I do try, to the extent I can, to learn some Vietnamese. And I can only learn it by associating it with English, Cantonese and Mandarin. As the Vietnamese pronounce it, “Hue” is the English pronunciation of “hwei” the tone is a combination of the 

The Delight of the Hok Tau Country Trail

The Delight of the Hok Tau Country Trail

The Hok Tau Country Trail is delightful.   There are two distinct sections of the trail, the latter part of which takes hikers through the villages and farms of Hok Tau.  It is an easy trail of about 1.5 hours with some climbing, at a level 

One of a Kind – The North District Park

One of a Kind – The North District Park

The North District Park is a horticultural innovation waiting to be discovered.  Located between Sheung Shui and Fanling, the park has its northern end at the So Kwun Po village and stretches southward to the Fanling Wai Village.  Carefully manicured gardens, beautiful pavilions, covered walkways and a lake in the park create an ecosystem of its own, properly blending human footprints within a designed natural environ.

Although the park is not large, it gives visitors ample recreational space.  I saw many people there doing walks and tai-chi, resting in the pavilions and some even brought their bird cages.  Workers were also busy with mowing, pruning and maintenance all over the park.  Clearly, this is a much-treasured space.

According to the introduction by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department, the park opened in 1990.  It is intended to be as much a cultural space as it is a man-made haven for wildlife.  In the park there is an amphitheater for holding cultural events.  Fragrant plants line the twin pavilion.  It is a thoughtful, pleasing detail.

An Ecological System of Its Own

The conservation area aims to provide a sanctuary for wild birds, butterflies and dragonflies.  The plants are carefully chosen to include native flowers and fruit trees so that the area is itself an ecological haven.  Chemical use is also reduced to the very minimum in this area.  It is clear that the purpose is well-accomplished.  I did see large birds resting over the park’s waters, and also many butterflies along my way.

 

A Community Initiative

On the southern end, there is a community garden, where people nurse edible plants.  I find this feature to be unusual for Hong Kong.  Clearly, this is a government space, and the active involvement of the people in sharing this space, other than for recreation, is quite uncommon.  The community initiative is commendable.

A leisurely walk in the park takes about one hour, but after the first visit I already plan on spending lazy afternoons there with a book.

A Quick Detour to the Heritage of Fanling Wai

At the park’s southern gate lies the Fanling Wai village.  There are three cannons that witness the village’s history since its pre-colonial days.  In 1669, during the early reign of Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, the villagers built gun towers and cannons as defenses against bandits in the area.  During the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong beginning in 1941, the villagers feared that these defensive structures would cause danger to the village.  They therefore removed these three cannons and buried them under the gun tower.  When during the 1980s the villagers rebuilt the gun towers, they found these cannons.  The cannons now stand as the spiritual defense of the village’s fortunes.

Old-Time Vietnam – Off to Hue

Old-Time Vietnam – Off to Hue

I must see Mr. T.  He has the stories of the DMZ as a veteran.  So I chose Hue as my fourth trip to Vietnam. On this first morning in Danang I had coffee, worked a bit more, and had lunch at the Happy Bread 

Old-Time Vietnam – Sizzling at Hue Ngon, Danang

Old-Time Vietnam – Sizzling at Hue Ngon, Danang

What’s with me and unmetered taxi’s?  The guy came up to me at the airport and quoted đ200,000.  I thought that included the airport tax but it was an extra đ70,000.  I simply did not have the guts to bargain.  On arrival at the hostel 

The Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk

The Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk

 The Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk is a treasure trove.  The 40-minute loop takes one through four vista points with exceptional views of the Pat Sin Leng (the Ridge of the Eight Immortals) and the seas of Eastern New Territories.

The Trail

The trail begins with some steps up and that is where you can clock in some exercise.

Very soon you will come upon the first viewing point with views of the Plover Cove Reservoir and its main dam, plus the mountains on the east:

Keep going, and at the second viewing point come with these views:

Photo on the right shows the sub dam of the Plover Cove Reservoir.

At the third viewing point:

Photos: a panoramic view of the Pat Sin Leng mountain ridges with eight summits.

 

At the fourth viewing point:

Photos: a panoramic view of the Tai Mei Tuk villages and the waterfront, and outlaying islands afar including Yim Tin Tsai.

How to get there

If you go by private car, park at the Tai Mei Tuk parking lot outside of the barbeque area.  By public transport, bus 75K runs from Tai Po Market Bus Terminus.  Minibus 20C also runs from Tai Po Market to Tai Mei Tuk.  Get off at the Tai Mei Tuk Terminus.

Keep going through the Tai Mei Tuk barbecue area, and the entrance to the trail is on your left across from the YHA Bradbury Jockey Club Tai Mei Tuk Youth Hostel.  That is before heading up the slope to the Tai Mei Tuk Main Dam.

 

The Rotary Club Park Nature Trail

The Rotary Club Park Nature Trail

Tai Mo Shan (Tai Mo Mountain) is the highest mountain in Hong Kong at an altitude of 957 meters.  The Rotary Club Park Nature Trail cuts through the Tai Mo Shan Country Park.  It is a short walk up on an intermediate incline.  Yes, there 

Beautiful Sha Tau Kok – The Cheung Shan Monastery

Beautiful Sha Tau Kok – The Cheung Shan Monastery

The Cheung Shan Monastery, formerly the Cheung Sang Nunnery, was believed to have been constructed in 1789. Seven villages in the neighborhood pulled the funds to build this temple in order to improve Feng Shui for the villages.  Located on Wo Keng Shan Road, it 

The Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill Military Camp

The Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill Military Camp

Some of the places in Hong Kong are never heard of, and out of this world.  The Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill is such a place.

According to the introduction on site, the “Hindu Temple at Burma Lines (formerly known as Queen’s Hill Camp) in Fanling was built in the 1960s for the Gurkhas from Nepal who were stationed at the camp.”  The temple has the shape of a lotus.  Its hexagonal design signifies holiness and beauty.  The god being worshipped in this temple is the Hindu god of destruction, Shiva.  Before 1996, the Gurkhas held Hindu festivals here, until obviously the British forces left Hong Kong in 1997 and thus this temple fell into disrepair.

When I saw the Hindu Temple, its beauty amazed me.  The inside was like avant garde, it felt as if I were in MOMA.  I used up a whole roll of film.

In terms of exploration of this site, there was not much beyond its beautiful exterior and interior.  However, the Queen’s Hill Camp is behind the temple.  According to the introduction by other hikers, the camp is huge.  Fallen trees blocked the road.  I stopped proceeding once having passed this covered pathway.

Photos: the way to the military camp structures.  Fallen trees blocked part of it.

How to get to the Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill

I went by private car.  From Lau Shui Heung Road, I turned right onto Po Kak Tsai Village.  At the Po Kak Tsai Lau Shui Heung Public Toilet, there is a way on the right that leads up to the Hindu Temple.  The area is under construction.  At first glance it looked as if there was no through way.  But do enter, and at the opening of the trail, keep to your right.

No, it does not even look like a way, but the very narrow path up (note, all along the wired fence) is the one that leads you to the temple.  As with the hiking of other trails in Hong Kong, where you see strings, ropes or ribbons tied on the path, it is indication that you are on the right path.  On this path, you will see large white ropes tied on the side all the way to the Hindu Temple.

Photos: follow the ribbons and the white ropes, and walk along the wired fence to reach the Hindu Temple.

If you take the wider pathway on your left, you will come across an old dog-breeding type of structure, and that is when you know you are on the wrong way.

Photos: if you see these structures, you have gone on the wrong way.  Turn back!

From the opening of the pathway to the Hindu Temple the gentle path up only takes about 5 minutes.

Annoyances

The mosquitoes in this area were fierce.  I do not usually get bites when I wear long pants.  On this day only my ankles were exposed and they came down with tens and tens of bites.  Therefore, go in full cover and with additional mosquito repellent on you.

The Hok Tau Reservoir (via Lau Shui Heung)

The Hok Tau Reservoir (via Lau Shui Heung)

The day was bright.  I looked for a straightforward trail that does not require research, but comes with some climbing.  I decided to visit the Hok Tau Reservoir via the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail. The last time that I visited the Lau Shui Heung