Vignettes of the World
As of June 2023, the giant twines of Mau Ping have been destroyed (not completely) by a vicious person, who chopped down parts of the old trees. The twines suffered significant damage. Some experts have assessed that the damage is too great for the twines …
After visiting the Police Museum, we decided to take a walk in the neighboring Aberdeen Reservoir. The entrance to the trail is right next to the Wan Chai Gap Park on the Aberdeen Reservoir Road. Simply walk along, all the way down on the paved …
Given the turn of events since last year, the Police Museum is probably not a kind of place that I would like to visit. Who wants to make the effort just to receive more propaganda, as if what we have been getting is not enough? But the Police Museum presents the official history of the Hong Kong Police Force, and it is surprisingly pleasant.
There were a total of five chambers within the museum showing different aspects of police history. The galleries display more than a thousand captions and artifacts. From machine guns to forensic photography, the museum covers many themes of the police’s work since its very beginning.
Photo: Forensic gear on display
I was particularly drawn to the history of police stations in Hong Kong because many police stations stand tall in the history of Hong Kong.
In 1841 when Britain formally took over Hong Kong, the Colonial Government set up the Hong Kong Police Force. The first “police station” in Hong Kong was a mere mat-shed shelter on a site next to what would become Tai Kwun in Central. Captain William Caine was the Chief Magistrate then overseeing the development of the Hong Kong Police Force.
The Tai Po Police Station would become the hotbed of conflicts when Britain took over the New Territories in 1899. The Colonial Government then decided to raise the British flag next to a mat-shed shelter police station on a hill in Tai Po known as Flagstaff Hill. The act of taking possession at the police station met with armed resistance of the indigenous villagers in the New Territories. The conflict set off what became known as The Six-Day War of 1899. Before the day due for flag raising, the villagers burned down this original site of the Tai Po Police Station. The flag raising later convened successfully, although the battles between the villagers and the Colonial army continued. Eventually, the new building for the Tai Po Police station would inaugurate, and served as the New Territories Headquarters for the Hong Kong Police Force.
A number of old police stations are now heritage sites. For example, the Tai Kwun, formerly the Central Police Station, is now a revitalized heritage site. The Tai O Police station is now a heritage hotel. And needless to say, the 1881 Heritage in Tsim Sha Tsui is formerly the Marine Police Headquarters. The Old Stanley Police Station of 1859 is the oldest police station building standing in Hong Kong. Finally, the Police Museum itself is formerly a police station, the Wan Chai Gap Police Station at the Peak, Coombe Road.
Yet there are historic police station buildings that continue to serve their original purpose. These are: the Police Station at the Peak (since 1886), the Cheung Chau Police Station (1913), Lok Ma Chau Police Station (1915), the Yau Ma Tei Police Station (1922), the Sham Shui Po Police Station (1925) and the Mong Kok Station (1925) respectively.
One of the most interesting history was the MacIntosh Cathedral. They are a group of Police posts along the northern border. Back in the 1950s, unstable conditions in mainland China has caused refugees to flee to Hong Kong. The police then had frequent clashes with gangsters at the border, sometimes in armed conflicts. Then Police Commissioner Duncan MacIntosh established seven border posts of reinforced concrete between 1950 and 1953 along a string of hills at the border. They became known as the MacIntosh Cathedral.
Photo: a model of the MacIntosh Cathedral
As of now, there are 62 police stations, patrol posts and reporting facilities in Hong Kong.
On the display is a Bren Gun that used to belong to the Marine Police. In 1949, pirates attacked the Police Launch No. 1, killing a few officers and taking away this gun. In 1956, an amrmourer of the Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers Command Workshop in Kowloon found this gun in the repair unit. It turns out that this gun was recaptured by the British forces in the Korean War and subsequently used by three separate British army regiments before being sent back to Hong Kong. I marveled at this story.
Perhaps the part of police history that is most relevant to the events of last year is the history of the Tactical Unit. After the “Double Tenth” riot of 1956, the British assessed the situation and set up the Police Tactical Contingent in an army camp in Fanling. The unit would serve to maintain internal security. Training started in 1958. The training involved six modules including internal security control, crowd management, anti-crime tactics, firearms training, physical training and other training. The unit served a critical role in suppressing the 1967 Riots. The Police Tactical Unit was renamed such in 1968. They are distinguished by the blue berets that they wear, and thus locally known as “blue berets.”
My friend was particularly keen on seeing this gallery. Indeed, small as it is, it does give us a glimpse of the triads and their working, including initiation ceremonies. There is a “heroin-making” display that is also very interesting. Perhaps due to the sensitivity of the subject matter, we could not take any photographs in these galleries.
Overall, this exhibition has shown some really interesting history. Although as official history there is not one word on police corruption in the early times and police brutality now, both of which being a major disgrace, the museum does present interesting facts that are not controversial. I highly encourage anyone with children to see the museum. Of if you hold the Hong Kong Police in distaste, perhaps reading this entry alone will do for you.
We went by private car and there is metered parking on site.
Photo: This was an actual traffic-direction booth
Source: The exhibition on site at the Police Museum.
The Chinese name of Amah Rock means the “husband-yearning rock.” “Why do you always go to these haunted places?” A good friend said when I told her that I would like to visit the Amah rock. Like so many places in Hong Kong that come …
I visited the Mount Davis Battery twice. On the first visit, I went on a sunny day and saw the Mount Davis Battery at mid-hill. I stopped short at seeing the command center on the hilltop. The steep incline was daunting. On my second visit, …
We aimed to do a short 1.5 hour walk from Pineapple Dam, but we asked for the wrong directions and ended up on the Shing Mun Reservoir Walk for three hours instead. But there were many pleasant surprises on the way.
As usual, we began at the Pineapple Dam. The Pineapple Nature Trail is a short upward hike for about half hour. The scenery on the way was pleasing, the water sang as we hiked along.
At the end of the trail we came upon a paved motorway. There was a sign but for some reason I simply could not read the map there. We resorted to asking for directions from fellow hikers, and we were told to take the path downward on our right. “You will get into a loop and eventually end up at Pineapple Dam again.”
We passed by many, many countless barbeque areas, and needless to say, there was no one doing bbq there due to the pandemic. What amazed us though were the picnic areas rather. Trees and pastures were abundant, and the fresh air boosted our mood significantly.
At this following crossroad, pick the path on your right, following the direction of Main Dam.
Photos from the Left: At the crossroad, take the path on the right (Main Dam).
Watch out for the Reservoir Walk posts and signs as shown in the next two photos.
We soon arrived at an open area with lots of broken trees and beautiful water scenery. We spent some time going around the area.
The road remains a paved road throughout the Reservoir Walk. Follow the round signposts. Along the way you will see an aerial view of Shing Mun Reservoir. There is some climbing, but on gradual incline and the walk is pleasant.
Photos: a panoramic view of the Shing Mun Reservoir
You will then pass through the dam, and go around the Shing Mun Valley area. There are many views of the reservoir along. After exiting the dam, again make a right to head back to the Pineapple Dam. This leg of the journey takes 20-25 minutes.
Overall, the hike took 3 to 3.5 hours, and we hurried through the last third of the trail because of a rainstorm. The first 2/3 was leisurely and very pleasant throughout.
We went by private car, and as usual we parked outside of the Pineapple Dam. By public transport: take green top minibus 82 to the final stop at Pineapple Dam.
Legend has it that a bride was carried through the pool in a wedding sedan chair on a rainy day. One of the carriers slipped and fell. The whole sedan chair fell into the pool. As a result the bride drowned. To remember this ill-fated …
Heritage, history, hiking, and happy dining – we did an all-in-one trip at Mei Ho House in Shek Kip Mei on a sunny afternoon. Trail at the Back The original intention of the day was to do a simple walk up the stairs behind Mei …
You may have noticed a big white cross on top of the mountain as you drive through Tai Wai into Shatin. The cross is part of the Tao Fong Shan Christian Center on Tao Fong Shan.
In its name, Tao Fong Shan may sound like it is a Taoist establishment. While it is a Christian institution, its history is relevant to the Taoist believers of Hong Kong. This following is a brief introduction on the website:
Tao Fong Shan Christian Centre was founded in 1930 by the Norwegian missionary Karl Ludvig Reichelt (1877-1952). Reichelt was sent to Hunan Province in China in 1904. There he gradually developed an idea to share the gospel with Buddhists. In 1922, he established Ching Fong Shan in Nanjing. In 1930, due to the chaos of the Chinese civil war, Reichelt moved his work to Shatin, Hong Kong, and asked a Danish architect, Johannes Prip-Moller (1889-1943) to design the buildings. On 13 March 1952, Reichelt died and was buried at the Tao Fong Shan cemetery..[i]
When I was young, the church circle would always organize retreats in Tao Fong Shan. Yet this would be my first time visiting the site and learning its Christian meanings. “Tao” refers to the logos, or “the way” in Christian theology (John 14:6). It is the fundamental tenet in Christianity, whereby salvation only comes through a true belief in Jesus Christ. “Fong,” the word for wind in Chinese, is a reference to “pneuma,” the Greek word for wind as well, and generally used to denote the Holy Spirit. “Shan” refers to the site being on a mountain.
My friend and I were amazed as we toured the main structures on Tao Fong Shan. They were unmistakably Chinese in their architecture. The Christ Temple, being the most prominent structure, was beautiful and every way more a “temple” than it is a “chapel.” Its primary appeal is to the believers of Asian religions. This certainly is a unique idea in Hong Kong. For churches and chapels of the colonial times, almost all others came with western architecture.
We made our way to the standing cross. We had to pass through a distinctively narrow opening. It refers to Jesus telling followers to enter Heavens through the narrow gate (Matthew 7:13-14). I thought this was a very thoughtful setting. It was a physical manifestation of Jesus’ teaching. And as we passed through, I explained to my friend the Biblical meaning intended in this narrow path.
Finally, we went back to the Christ Temple. We went around and found a spot facing the mountain. We enjoyed the sunshine in this very tranquil spot. A leisurely walk around this area takes about an hour. Be sure to admire the beautiful aerial views of Shatin and Tai Wai as well.
Tao Fong Shan still provides accommodation for group and personal retreat today. I think this is the perfect place for one to quiet down, to practice meditation, and to write. Perhaps I should rent a room there for my writing projects.
From the Shatin MTR station, exit toward Pai Tau Village, then descend on the ramp. Once you reach the ground level, make a left (almost a u-turn) and enter the way to the village. You will see the signs pointing you to Tao Fong Shan there. Take the upward steps to your right when you see the crossroad. After about ten, fifteen minutes, you will come across the end of the steps. There are signs pointing you to the way up To Fong Shan Road. It is about another ten minutes up to reach the Tao Fong Shan Christian Center. The whole walk takes only a little over 20 minutes on a steady incline.
Photos: U Turn onto this path right along the ramp, and photo on the right shows the signs at the ramp.
Photo: The long stairs up is the path going toward Tao Fong Shan Road. This is the view on the ramp / footbridge.
On this sunny and hot day I headed out to the Kam Shan Country Park area. The plan was to visit Wilson Trail Section 6 off of the Kam Shan Family Walk. The trail exits at Tai Po Road. This area is known to hikers …