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One of a Kind – The North District Park

One of a Kind – The North District Park

The North District Park is a horticultural innovation waiting to be discovered.  Located between Sheung Shui and Fanling, the park has its northern end at the So Kwun Po village and stretches southward to the Fanling Wai Village.  Carefully manicured gardens, beautiful pavilions, covered walkways 

Old-Time Vietnam – Off to Hue

Old-Time Vietnam – Off to Hue

I must see Mr. T.  He has the stories of the DMZ as a veteran.  So I chose Hue as my fourth trip to Vietnam. On this first morning in Danang I had coffee, worked a bit more, and had lunch at the Happy Bread 

Old-Time Vietnam – Sizzling at Hue Ngon, Danang

Old-Time Vietnam – Sizzling at Hue Ngon, Danang

What’s with me and unmetered taxi’s?  The guy came up to me at the airport and quoted đ200,000.  I thought that included the airport tax but it was an extra đ70,000.  I simply did not have the guts to bargain.  On arrival at the hostel I learned that taxi rides from the airport should be đ150,000 before 10pm, and after 10pm it would be đ200,000.  I knew I paid more than I should, but that extra đ50,000 would have made someone extra happy.

The hostel gave me a coupon for a welcome drink.  I debated whether to have that drink.  I was very hungry when I checked in, and dinner would have been most appreciated.  However, I did decide to have the welcome drink.  It was free, so why not?  And the aloe vera with kum quat juice was awesome.  It was incredibly refreshing and distinctively Southeast Asian.  The best of it all, it was non-alcoholic.  The café up on 4th floor had an amazing ambiance too.

After the drink it was time for dinner.  Hue Ngon was the destination.  It was just about 10 minutes away from the hostel.  Even from afar I sensed the party atmosphere at the restaurant.  Its bright lights and the sizzling aroma of char-grilled food were wonderful indication to me.  People hovered around small tables on very short stools, drinking beer and having a good time.

The waitress there knew a little bit of Cantonese.  She was patient in showing me how to pronounce the food in Vietnamese.  Needless to say, the food on other diners’ tables was the best proof of this restaurant’s repute.  Yet the warmth of its staff was a pleasant surprise.  I went all out as a result: beef, pork, squid, okra, wok-fried veggies, you name it, I had it.  They came in small portions with sauces, condiments, salad, and generous servings of leaf wraps.

 

Which people in the world know grilled meat better than the Koreans?  At Hue Ngon, a funny video played on its wide-screen TV, showing two plump Korean women having a mouthwatering barbeque at the restaurant.  I had no idea what they were actually saying, but point taken as I savored my own share of barbeque.  Their animated expressions were hilarious.

Back at the hostel, I could not resist and went back up to the café to have a second drink.  The pear, ginger and lemon grass juice was yet another unlikely mix of characters that kept me refreshed.  The girl there asked me why I had a British accent.  I told her that I came from the colonial era in Hong Kong, which, to her, probably was not a familiar history.

All in all, this one-night transit in Danang was the perfect beginning of my trip.  I would be heading out to the imperial city of Hue on the train the next day.

 

Hue Ngon Restaurant’s address is 65 Tran Quoc Toan St., Danang City, Vietnam.  Telephone: 0905-309-799.

The Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk

The Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk

 The Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk is a treasure trove.  The 40-minute loop takes one through four vista points with exceptional views of the Pat Sin Leng (the Ridge of the Eight Immortals) and the seas of Eastern New Territories. The Trail The trail begins 

The Rotary Club Park Nature Trail

The Rotary Club Park Nature Trail

Tai Mo Shan (Tai Mo Mountain) is the highest mountain in Hong Kong at an altitude of 957 meters.  The Rotary Club Park Nature Trail cuts through the Tai Mo Shan Country Park.  It is a short walk up on an intermediate incline.  Yes, there 

Beautiful Sha Tau Kok – The Cheung Shan Monastery

Beautiful Sha Tau Kok – The Cheung Shan Monastery

The Cheung Shan Monastery, formerly the Cheung Sang Nunnery, was believed to have been constructed in 1789. Seven villages in the neighborhood pulled the funds to build this temple in order to improve Feng Shui for the villages.  Located on Wo Keng Shan Road, it is about half-way on the route to China during the old times.  It used to serve as a rest stop for travelers.

The wooden plaque of the temple dates back to 1868, when the temple was reconstructed for the first time.  The motifs on the sides of the gate describe the roughness of a long journey, then ended with the temple’s tranquility as a place of respite to the travelers.  As a stop for travelers, the temple offered room and board.  As many as 30 travelers could stay in the side chambers.

There were antique structures and instruments of worship inside the Temple.  The old bell shows the wording “peace be with the nation and its people.” It also alludes to the villages.  The bell dates from the earliest time of the temple’s existence circa 1789, the 54th year of the Qianlong reign during the Qing Dynasty, when it began as the Cheung Sang Nunnery.

In 1998, the government named the structure an antique monument.  The temple went through restoration and reopened in 1999.  As it stands now, the Cheung Shan Monastery is a very good example of Qing dynasty architecture.  It has one main hall with side chambers, and two entrances.  The inner chamber elevates by one meter.

Due to the availability of new routes connecting Hong Kong and China, the ancient journey to China via this part of the New Territories has long been in disuse.  It is fair to say that the temple is now all but forgotten.  Perhaps except for the once-a-year ghost festival in July of the lunar calendar.  That is when villagers will gather for worship and scripture chanting.

How to get there

I went by private car.  For public transport, take Minibus 55k and get off at Wo Keng Shan Road, then walk on Wo Keng Shan Road for about 10 to 15 minutes.  The temple is on your right.

Sources:

Somanhing.com, on Cheung Shan Monastery (in Chinese).

Fushantang.com, on Cheung Shan Monastery (in Chinese).

The Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill Military Camp

The Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill Military Camp

Some of the places in Hong Kong are never heard of, and out of this world.  The Hindu Temple of Queen’s Hill is such a place. According to the introduction on site, the “Hindu Temple at Burma Lines (formerly known as Queen’s Hill Camp) in 

The Hok Tau Reservoir (via Lau Shui Heung)

The Hok Tau Reservoir (via Lau Shui Heung)

The day was bright.  I looked for a straightforward trail that does not require research, but comes with some climbing.  I decided to visit the Hok Tau Reservoir via the Lau Shui Heung Country Trail. The last time that I visited the Lau Shui Heung 

Hue 1968

Hue 1968

Book Review: Hue 1968 (2017)

By Mark Bowden

By tradition, your first encounter on the morning of Tet was supposed to be a harbinger for the entire year.  If that were true, then Hue’s fate in the New Year would have been sealed.  Its first visitor had been death.  At 152.

If reading is a journey, then this book took me on a long, painful and bloodied one.

Suffice to say, for its realism, and the obvious journalistic intentions shown, this book has served a worthy purpose in conveying a critical development in the American War in Vietnam.  For after the Battle of Hue, the world’s public opinion turned against America’s involvement in Vietnam.  In the United States, the discussion was no longer how long before it wins the war, but rather how to pull out from the conflict.

Mark Bowden weaves together a few ongoing narratives to convey the Battle of Hue with a critical perspective.  In the forefront is the narrative about the U.S. Marines that fought to retake the ancient imperial city of Hue against a successful surprise offensive on the eve of Tet (the Lunar New Year) in 1968 launched by the North Vietnamese forces.

I think the author has made a commendable effort in researching each character.  With details that layer the narrative with color and complexity, the book readily resonates with readers.  Certainly no less so for the ones on the enemy’s lines, I quickly appreciated the perspectives on both sides as the story unfolds.  In many occasions, I felt an incredible sadness when on a previous page I read about a character, then learning that this person would meet the near-inevitable fate of death on the next.  It was heart-wrenching but powerful.

The story of La Chu seized my attention.  Duped “this f—–g place” (TFP) by the marines, La Chu was the command center of the Viet Cong forces, at the time unbeknownst to Lieutenant Colonel Sweet or the U.S. forces.  In leading his battalion’s fateful first march into La Chu, Captain Sweet came under severe attacks.  The enemy waited till the marines were well into the woods to launch attacks, and effectively surrounding them.  Due to supply shortage, weather and jungle conditions, neither artillery nor air support was possible.  The battalion was expected in Hue to fight the battles there.  The commanders ordered the battalion to move forward and get to Hue.  Sweet knew that to move forward would be suicidal.

The story developed in a breathless intensity as the author takes readers through Sweet’s very dangerous maneuver in leading what was left of the battalion out of La Chu.  For the lack of a better word, the marines sneaked out during the night in a silent march.  It was an act of heroic survival.

In due course, the U.S. forces would capture La Chu.  But even then, the significance and the overwhelming preparedness of the North Vietnamese forces in La Chu was still underestimated on the commander level.

The perspective of the journalists reporting the battles on the ground serves to convey the sentiment of distrust.  It was with their heroic efforts of reporting the Battle of Hue that the American public and the world audience learned what really happened in Hue.  The persistent official denial of losing all previously-held grounds in Hue was what shocked the world.  Throughout the few weeks between January 31 and February 25, 1968, the journalists braved the battlegrounds in which the U.S. Marines fought to regain Hue block by block.  The journalist reports gave rise to what perhaps was one of the chief casualties of the Battle of Hue in 1968: the trust that the American people had in their public officials.

In fact, Hue was the one place in all of Vietnam that the war had hardly touched.  Its people were not especially supportive of either side in the conflict.  Ho knew that Hue’s Catholics, Buddhists, and intellectuals, while not necessarily friendly to his cause, were also cool to Thieu’s government… the was a tough nut for both the North and the South.  At 45-46.

The places, descriptions, and impressions of Hue in the book recalled the memory of my visit at Hue, and thus giving me the context when I read this book.  But navigating it within the setting of urban battles was an experience of its own.  The author expresses deep sympathies with the civilians that suffered at the cross-fire of North Vietnamese and U.S. forces.  Worse still was the senseless retribution committed by both sides, an enormity that could have been motivated by ideology, or pure viciousness:

The “liberation” of Hue suspended law and order and upended basic decency, giving retribution an official stamp of approval.  It tapped a deep vein of savagery.  At 302

During my visit of Hue, I saw the beautiful Imperial Palace and its citadel.  The Imperial Palace served as the command center for the North Vietnamese during the Battle of Hue.  As such, it met the inevitable fate of bombardment.  Only about 20% of the original structures remain in the imperial ground now.  The destruction of historical and otherwise beautiful structures within Hue was a raw witness to the war and its consequences.

From Eagle’s Nest to Beacon Hill

From Eagle’s Nest to Beacon Hill

Having done the Eagle’s Nest Nature Trail in the previous week, we decided to vary our itinerary this time for just a little.  The day was overcast, and in fact the weather forecast predicted squally thunderstorms.  We tried our luck. The Eagle’s Nest Trail connects