Vignettes of the World
I have long heard that there is a path going up the Peak from Pokfield Road. On this sunny day I finally had the opportunity to try this route. At the Pokfield Road Bus Terminus, look for a long flight of stairs up next to …
According to its Facebook page, Wat Mekthumvanaram is one of the three Thai temples in Hong Kong that the King of Thailand recognizes. The temple is simply known as the Thai Temple of Tai Wo in Hong Kong. Behind the temple ground there is a …
The Devil’s Peak has been on the top of my bucket list in terms of wartime relics. I finally had the opportunity to head out on a bright afternoon.
At a depth of 22 metres, the Lei Yue Mun Pass is very narrow and is the only maritime approach into the Victoria Harbour on the east. The Devil’s Peak, as it overlooks all of the eastern seaway into the Lei Yue Mun Pass, thus became a site of strategic importance for the British. Together with the Lei Yue Mun Fort at the highlands of Shau Kei Wan (now the Museum of Coastal Defense), the Devil’s Peak was one of the twin command centres guarding eastern Kowloon and Hong Kong on north and south of the Lei Yue Mun Pass.
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, the British built these military installations intending these structures to protect Hong Kong against potential attacks by then Britain’s European rivalries, namely France and Russia. Yet long before the British took over Hong Kong, the military significance of the Devil’s Peak was apparent to and exploited by different entities.
In early Qing Dynasty, the remnants of the Ming Dynasty took over this part of Hong Kong. The Ming loyalist forces, who were based in Taiwan and known for their sea-faring nature, occupied the Devil’s Peak. General Zheng Chenggong, the Ming loyalist warrior, led a garrison here. He extracted tolls from the commercial vessels that sailed by the Lei Yue Mun Pass. As such, the Devil’s Peak was part of the Ming Dynasty resistance against Qing rule.
Well into the Qing Dynasty, however, the Devil’s Peak was occupied by many pirates. The operators of commercial vessels often sailed through the Lei Yue Mun Pass with trepidation. For this reason, although this area was formerly named Kai Po Shan, it was known as Devil’s Peak since. There are also rumours that antique Qing treasures remain hidden in this area.
The British had long eyed the Devil’s Peak as a strategic military stronghold. The plan might have formed as early as 1899, or perhaps even before they officially leased the New Territories from the Qing Government. At the time, Lei Yue Mun belonged to the New Territories. The British built the Devil’s Peak Redoubt between 1900-1914.
There are four clusters of military installation. Lying at the summit, at 222 metres, is the Devil’s Peak Redoubt. At 196 metres is the Observation Post. At 160 metres lies the Gough Battery. Then finally at 80 metres lies the Pottinger Battery. We visited the Devil’s Peak Redoubt and the Gough Battery on this occasion.
On our ascent we first arrived at the Gough Battery. The major structures are two gun emplacements, one for a six-inch quick-firing gun and another for a 9.2-inch cannon. Although the gun emplacements remain intact throughout the years, the actual 9.2-inch gun was relocated to Stanley in 1936.
Photos: on the left is the 9.2-inch gun emplacement at the Gough Battery. On the right is the 6-inch emplacement.
The ruins of the Gough Battery are very photogenic. It is a pity that I visited the site before first doing my historical research. As such my pictures convey more of the aesthetics of the ruins rather than the military functions that these structures served. Do watch out for a metal ring that is pinned to the ground. Although there is no historical description, it must have served some important function perhaps for the fixation of equipment.
Photos: Views at the Gough Battery
A walk around the structures there takes about half an hour.
We then headed on over to the Devil’s Peak Redoubt. It occupies a very large area. Some of the structures were made of stones, but most of them were of cement.
As the Fire Command East, the Devil’s Peak Redoubt was fitted with five machine gun emplacements. They guarded the key corners of its firing wall. Furthermore, the external wall of the Redoubt has 100 loopholes providing an all-around coverage of the eastern approach to Victoria Harbour.
It was quite an experience peeping through the loopholes. I was looking on to the same view as those soldiers that guarded this stronghold at one of Hong Kong’s most critical historic moments.
As a defense structure, the Devil’s Peak Redoubt had critical facilities, including pillboxes, a communication center, a circular defense structure, and a kitchen as well. There is also a bunker on the northern cliff face of the Redoubt.
Photos: views at the Devil’s Peak Redoubt
A walk around the Devil’s Peak Redoubt can easily take an hour, especially if you go on the weekend when there are many, many tourists there competing for picture taking. This is also where all of Victoria Harbour on the west exhibits itself in a wonderful panorama. Therefore certainly allow for more time here.
Although we did not see the Pottinger Battery, I think it is worth a brief introduction. There are two gun emplacements at the Pottinger Battery, both of 9.20-inch guns. These guns relocated to the Bokhara Battery at Cape D’Aguilar. By the 1930s, all guns were removed from this battery. In the 1970s, ground filling buried one of the gun emplacements, and therefore only one remains now.
The intended plan of defense with the Devil’s Peak fortifications was complicated. These sites were connected with cement paths with pillboxes, costal search light positions and trenches. The original pathways were mostly destroyed, however. In fact, some of the communication channels became part of the Wilson Trail today.
The fortifications at Devil’s Peak, particularly the loopholes on the Devil’s Peak Redoubt, provided a 360 all-around coverage to all of the Devil’s Peak area. While the British built these fortifications during the early 1900s with their European rivalries in mind, the Devil’s Peak would only see the day of battle during World War II. Japan rose as the aggressor in Asia Pacific.
The Gin Drinkers’ line is a stretch of military defence from the western end of Kwai Chung to the eastern end of Lei Yue Mun. The Shing Mun Redoubt was another notable fortification that was intended to guard Kowloon against aggression via the land route from the north. On the eastern end, the Devil’s Peak Redoubt was part of this so-called “the Maginot Line of the East.”
The defence of Hong Kong, despite the British military’s proven prowess during the 19th century, failed miserably when the Japanese launched their invasion on Hong Kong on December 8, 1941. The Japanese forces reached the Shing Mun Redoubt on December 9, 1941. It fell into Japanese hands after just a couple days of fighting.
Similarly, the Devil’s Peak also saw some of the most ferocious battles against the Japanese.
Perhaps the Japanese caught the British by surprise in two significant ways. Firstly, the British did not fully understand that aircraft battles replaced naval battleship as the most decisive naval weapons. Secondly, the Japanese did not make a landing via the sea route, the defence of which was what the Devil’s Peak Redoubt might have been good for. Having taken down the Shing Mun Redoubt, the Japanese moved south to Kowloon. They then went eastward and approached the Devil’s Peak on land on December 13 at 4am.
At the time, the 5/7 Rajputs and the First Mountain Battery of the Hong Kong Singapore Artillery guarded the Devil’s Peak. There was heavy fighting for about twenty-four hours. The last defenders evacuated by sea to the Hong Kong Island via the Lei Yue Mun Pass.
The Japanese then took over the Devil’s Peak as the base to attack Hong Kong Island. As we all know, Hong Kong eventually surrendered to the Japanese on Christmas Day, 1941.
All along the way, we saw fantastic views of the Victoria Harbour, looking westward from the eastern-most point in Kowloon. Needless the say, the higher we walked, the better the views became.
At the Devil’s Peak Redoubt, we saw panoramic views of the Lei Yue Mun Pass on the east, including the former runway of Kai Tak Airport.
It was about dusk and we enjoyed beautiful views of the Victoria Harbor. Many photographers have already reserved their spots for taking sunset pictures.
From the Yau Tong MTR Station exit A2, head on toward Ko Chiu Road. It is the same way up the Junk Bay Chinese Permanent Cemetery.
A gentle reminder that the walk up Ko Chiu Road is steep. Although it is only about a 20-minute walk on a paved slope, do take breaks in the pavilions on the way.
At this point, follow the sign for Wilson Trail. The stairs up the Gough Battery is on your left.
Once on the Wilson Trail, follow the signs for Devil’s Peak throughout. We headed back on the same way back to Yau Tong Station, but there is a way to leave toward Lam Tin as well.
Finally, do wear long pants. The overgrown vegetation in the area has made it hospitable for mosquitoes. Therefore also bring some mosquito repellent with you.
The majority of the historical descriptions about the Devil’s Peak in this entry came from Devil’s Peak Ruins: A Glimpse of a British Stronghold. It is a VCD made by Hong Kong University and commissioned by the Lord Wilson Heritage Trust, 2002.
See also Follow Me, Devil’s Peak.
See also Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence, Leisure and Cultural Services Department, History.
Finally, see also the work of Professor Lawrence Lai, as referenced on the Wikipedia’s entry on the Devil’s Peak.
This entry is part of the series on Hong Kong’s World War II history. Please visit the following links for:
Japanese Fortifications in Luk Keng
Murmurs of the Hollow at Mount Davis
Hike of the Year: From Nam Fung Sun Tsuen to Jardine’s Lookout and Back
The weather has been fine for most of the past few weeks. There are signs of summer and yet it has not been too hot. We seize the opportunity to do different kinds of walks. The walk of the day was from Bowen Drive to …
The day began with a slight overcast and a pleasant coolness. We planned a hike of about four hours from Siu Lam to Ho Pui Reservoir. The journey began at Palatial Coast in Siu Lam. I got off at the minibus stop (information below) and …
The short hiking trail today begins at So Kwun Wat Village. It takes a little over an hour one way to reach Wong Nai Tun Reservoir.
The Wong Nai Tun Reservoir is an irrigation reservoir that was built in the 1960s to serve the irrigation needs for the fields of Yuen Long. To aggrandize the reserves of the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir (popularly known as Reservoir Islands), the Hong Kong Government cut off some of the streams that supplied water to the villages. As a result, the government built four other irrigation reservoirs to meet water demand.
The Wong Nai Tun Reservoir is located within the Tai Lam Chung Country Park. The trail is not so popular. However, it is a nice easy walk with views of the Reservoir Islands that are quite different from what we see at the Reservoir Islands View Point.
Photos above and below: Different Views of the Reservoir Islands on the Way to Wong Nai Tun Reservoir
The day was bright and we first had dim sum at the nearby Gold Coast. Then we drove over to So Kwun Wat Tsuen (Village). On So Kwun Wat Tsuen Road, we went all the way to the very end and parked at the unmarked spaces there. This following is the signpost pointing to the various routes in the area. Follow the sign for Wong Nai Tun Reservoir all along this path.
Very soon we came upon the Tai Lam Chung Reservoir Small Dam. We could find a path to explore the shore here. Although these are no grand views, the site is hidden away and perfect for a relaxing afternoon with a book by the water. Someone has already taken up an old tree branch for a nap. Freshwater fishing is also possible if you manage to get a license from the government.
We also passed by the pathway to the Reservoir Islands View Point. But our destination was Wong Nai Tun Reservoir, so we kept on going on the original path.
The trail is a gradual incline for about 2.5km on a paved driveway. After a little over an hour, we arrived at the southern tip of the Wong Nai Tun Reservoir. We could see the stream that supplies the water to this reservoir. The area was distinctively breezy.
These are views of the main dam of the Wong Nai Tun Reservoir, as we walked further north.
We walked through the dam and arrived at a small diverging path to reach the shore for another view.
At many of Hong Kong’s hiking sites, one usually comes across just one particular animal that roam around freely. In this part of the tai Lam Chung Country Park, goats are the resident animal.
Again, we went by private car. Drive on So Kwun Wat Tsuen Road, enter the So Kwun Wat Village all the way till the end. If you get there early enough, there should be some unmarked parking spaces at the road signs.
By minibus, take Route 43 from San Hui in Tuen Mun, and get off at the final stop at So Kwun Wat Village. After that, enter the village and there is about a 20-minute walk to reach the road signs.
Source:
The Wikipedia on the Wong Nai Tun Reservoir.
On my way to So Lo Pun, I witnessed a bull fight in Kuk Po. It is a novelty to me. The bulls locked horns and wrestled back and forth to gain grounds. The fight went on for just a few minutes. I had to …
The village of So Lo Pun is one of my most looked-forward to journeys on the bucket list. Well, readers wouldn’t be surprised because this is another so-called haunted village in the Sha Tau Kok area, and I am all for Angkor Wat sceneries in …
We saw the final show of Tri Ka Tsai at the Lau Bak Livehouse at Freespace, West Kowloon this past weekend. While the show is distinctively Hong Kong in its theme, as a cabaret production it clothes native contents in a cultural form with western origins. And it works.
Tai Kwun commissioned the performance of Tri Ka Tsai in 2019. It has been two years in the running and every show was a full house. That is no small accomplishment, and there are certainly features of the show that enable its success.
Tri Ka Tsai being the name of the show is worthy of some explanation. “Tri” refers to the expectation of tri-lingualism in present-day Hong Kong, as opposed to the demand of bilingualism during the colonial times. The wordplay is such that, as opposed to the now “Tri-ka,” “Bi-ka” of the older days plays a pun: it means someone (tsai, meaning a boy) who “thoroughly fails all expectations” in Cantonese. This joke sets the stage for the show. What follow are wordplays and cultural critiques, with original music and lyrics that give structure and substance to the performance.
Leading the performance are Rick Lau and Anna Lo. Rick begins with introducing himself as a post-70s Gen X-er. He grew up in colonial Hong Kong in a bilingual environment. He developed trilingual abilities in order to succeed, by meeting new sets of social expectations, just like everyone else here in post-colonial times. I think this strikes immediate rapport with the audience, as it seemed to me that the people of this full house event all had some silver hair. They must have been in their 40s and 50s. I am certainly one myself.
The 1.5-hour show begins with some pretty good jests about Cantonese culture. There are familiar jokes. For example, the Cantonese names that would have read normally but when pronounced they are a pun. Or the English names that Hong Kong people give themselves that are hilarious to English speakers. Another joke was about the old and new street names in Hong Kong. The cultural critiques continue throughout the show. They do trigger the back-and-forth between Cantonese, English and Mandarin in order to get the jokes.
Yet at some point the jesting tamed, and the show seems to have progressed onto a note of poignancy. There is a light touch on the events in Hong Kong in recent years, with enough left unsaid.
This is also when the originality of the music takes the center stage. Anna composed the music, and the band certainly delivers – some rock, some pop. The song On the Same Street (my translation) is particularly moving. We heard a few songs with beautiful melodies. Anna’s sing-along performance on the piano, along with the band and the lyrics by Yuri Ng, certainly showcases the creativity of which Hong Kong’s Gen-X talents are capable.
The show brings into sharp focus Hong Kong people’s mannerisms. Perhaps there is also some effort to show the underlying notions that gjve rise to these linguistic and cultural expressions. This show is meant to be funny and thus there are plenty of ridicules, but the love for Hong Kong shows amply through.
Toward the end of the show the poignancy lingers. The performance captures the culture of Hong Kong up to this moment in time. However, we do know that Hong Kong’s future remains precarious, or worse yet, in deep waters. At some point the performers seems to suggest that the adaptability and resilience for which Hong Kong people are known is the source of hope. Truly so?
Finally, I thought that the Lau Bak Livehouse at the Freespace was a great venue for this final show of Tri Ka Tsai. It was free seating and the ticket included a free drink either before or after the show. The hip and lighthearted bar atmosphere suited the nature of the show.
This was the first cabaret that I have seen and it left quite an impression.
As of June 2023, the giant twines of Mau Ping have been destroyed (not completely) by a vicious person, who chopped down parts of the old trees. The twines suffered significant damage. Some experts have assessed that the damage is too great for the twines …