Vignettes of the World
The Man Mo Temple is one of the earliest temples established in Hong Kong Island. Two wealthy Chinese merchants came up with the funds to build it between 1847 and 1862. Standing on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, Man Mo Temple bears witness to the …
Once you’ve had Japanese food in Japan, you can never go back to Japanese food elsewhere. This has been the comment I have heard from many, many people. As this was my first trip ever to Japan, I naturally had high expectations for its food. …
The Gio-ji Temple lies in the quiet of Arashiyama’s back quarters, its petite garden covered in moss. Its humility is deceiving. Unlike the bigger temples, such as Tenryu-ji, Jojakko-ji or the Nison-in Temple, Gio-ji appears, at first glance, to pale significantly in terms of the heritage that other temples rightly take pride in. Yet Gio-ji Temple has a history that moves one to tears. Its story illuminates the weight of Buddhism as a personal faith, in the ways that it lifts human beings from dramatic times of emotional suffering.
Speaking of moss, the Saiho-ji Temple is known as the “moss temple.” It requires advanced reservations to visit. If you did not get to see the moss temple, you may consider the Gio-ji Temple to have presented a scenery along the same theme.
The Nonomiya Shrine of Arashiyama was the site where imperial priestesses went through their purification ritual before being sent off to the Ise shrine as the representative from the imperial court. It also comes within the literary tradition of Japan as the setting of an exceedingly beautiful, bittersweet love story.
In Gio-ji Temple, the role of women once again comes into the spotlight. The history was a legend retold. During the Heian period, Shirabyoshi was a popular form of entertainment. The female performer sang and danced in a simple rhythm, and they dressed in men’s attire as they performed. The women that did Shirabyoshi were very talented in singing, dancing and poetry. Although some might call them courtesans, they were, first and foremost, entertainers.
Our protagonist is the beautiful woman Gio, who performed before the nobility in Kyoto during the late 12th century. Her performances captivated the powerful military leader Taira no Kiyomori. He took her in as his favored consort, but this was no happy ending for Gio. Taira no Kiyomori then fell for another dancer named Hotoke Gozen. Gio fell out of favor, and in the pain of unrequited love and humiliation, she made a critical decision to leave her former life behind.
Gio decided that she would retire from her life as a performer. Along with her mother and sister, Gio arrived at Gio-ji Temple, which was to be named after her, to live a life of reclusion as a Buddhist nun.
As fate goes, Hotoke Gozen would eventually join Gio in the Gio-ij Temple herself, seeking forgiveness and a redeemed, quiet life of Buddhist asceticism as well. A recurrent theme in this tale is the idea of karma. As these women’s former lives were entangled in webs of jealousy and rivalry, Buddhism came to them as the final answer for spiritual resolution. Buddhism presented a higher calling that enabled them to rise above the common desires for love, material pursuits, power and fame.
Let me just conclude this story with a final word about Taira no Kiyomori. In the Tale of the Heike, which tells also the story between Taira no Kiyomori and Gio, Taira no Kiyomori is portrayed as a man of evil. As a military leader his actions against rebellions have caused the destruction of a key temple in Nara and its Buddhist texts. He eventually met an unfortunate fate of a severe disease and died in pain. Karma certainly did its work on Taira no Kiyomori.
Allow for just a little less than a half hour to walk through this temple.
The Gio-ji Temple has the unique ambience that fully expresses the bittersweetness of its history. Thick thickets of moss-covered ground spread out before visitors in its small garden.
There was a certain sense of heaviness in the air. This part of Arashiyama has very dense shades that trapped humidity. In this time of the year, the autumnal colors had brighten up the whole space. Fallen red leaves laid a crimson blanket upon the thick moss.
Certain sections of bamboo lined parts of the small garden, standing tall. Seeing its height reaching far into the sky above, one seems to reckon the extensiveness of hope as the source of life’s resilience.
The Gio-ji Temple is the perfect example of how learning about the history and legends of a heritage site is key to the appreciation of its physical beauty. In this small enclosure of a simple thatched roof temple and a small garden space, I could feel the spirits of the women that found sanctuary and closure here.
Before visiting the Gio-ji Temple, I had seen the Ryoan-ji Temple, the Kinkaku-ji Temple, the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple, and the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple. I was running out of steam. It was somewhat late for lunch. I sat down at a café for a pasta that was not really worth a mention. But I did have the food that I needed.
After lunch, I had no plans and in fact I wanted to go back to the hotel to rest. Then I saw a sign pointing to yet another temple. I could not resist, and I was glad to have visited Gio-ji Temple.
The Wikipedia on Shirabyoshi.
www.japan-experience.com, Gioji Temple: a Hidden Gem with a Tragic Love Story in Kyoto’s Arashiyama District.
If the 1,200 rakan statues that stand at the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple represent the Buddhist followers’ celebration of their faith in life, then the 8,000 stone markers at the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple are the proper tribute to death. The sky opened up at this hour …
The Hehu Xinju is in so many ways representative of Hakka culture in both Shenzhen and in China. In this tour of the enormous Hakka residential complex, I learned about the significance of the Luo family, who established its prominence in Shenzhen since the Qianlong …
Sheung Shui Heung, also known as Sheung Shui Wai, is traditionally of the Liu surname. As a large centuries-long settlement area for indigenous villagers, Sheung Shui Heung has a few heritage sites worthy of visiting. I have discussed the stately Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in a previous entry. There are more interesting heritage buildings in Sheung Shui Heung.
This time I visited the old house in Chung Sum Tsuen Village, passed by the Liu Ming Tek Tong and also took a quick look at the Liu Ying Lung Study Hall. The suggestion is to visit all of these in one visit, along with the Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall.
Chung Sum Tsuen Village came into being when the Liu’s settlement sprawled beyond the original Wai Noi Tsuen Village area. Sheung Shui Wai, originally Wai Noi Tsuen Village, was established in around 1646. Then other villages, including Chung Sum Tsuen Village, was established in the 19th century as an expansion of the Liu’s settlement in Sheung Shui Wai.
On No. 9, Second Lane, Chung Sum Tsuen stands an old house with interesting architecture. For a long time I have been intrigued by the “wok handle top” (“wok yee” gable) gables of Qing dynasty era vernacular village homes. They shape like the handle of the wok, as the name suggests.
According to the Wikipedia on Lingnan Architecture, during the Ming dynasty, only those who have achieved a certain level of recognized scholarship could build this kind of top for their village homes. In terms of practical purpose, these types of walls prevent fire and provides shade against the sun.
On this site once stood the Ngai Lan Tong Ancestral Hall. The original structure collapsed in the 19th century. Thereafter, the villagers built their homes in this location. I took a short walk around the neighborhood and saw Ngai Lan Tong’s modern structure not far away.
On No. 11, First Lane, Chung Sum Tsuen stands another old house. It is actually just around the corner from No. 9, Second Lane. It also shows the “wok handle top” that fascinates me.
In terms of architectural merit, “it is constructed of green bricks with its walls to support its pitched roof of timber rafters, purlins and clay tiles” (AAB Historic Building Appraisal No. 1082).
Both of these houses are Grade 3 Historic Buildings. These old houses are still the residence for villagers. Therefore, please respect their privacy and minimize all potential disturbance when you visit.
The Liu Ming Tek Tong Study Hall is a structure of the 8th year of the Daoguang reign in the Qing dynasty (1828), just ten years prior to the building of the Liu Ying Lung Study Hall, discussed below.
Built in the 2-hall, 1-courtyard layout, Liu Ming Tek Tong celebrates Liu Ying Fung, the brother of Liu Ying Lung. Liu Ming Tek Tong Study Hall and the Liu Ying Lung Study Hall lie nearby each other, as a celebration of the brotherhood between these two brothers.
The Liu Ying Lung Study Hall is a structure of the 18th year of the Daoguang reign in the Qing dynasty (1838). It commemorates the fourth-generation ancestor Liu Ying Lung. The structure is built in the 2-hall, 1-courtyard layout. The pitched roof of the study hall is supported by granite columns. On three sides of the courtyard there is a veranda.
At the back hall, an altar is set for the spirit tablets of the ancestors. The courtyard is the venue for all kinds of community events, including marriage celebration, New Years festivities and newborn ceremonies.
Other than community events and ancestral worship, the Liu Ying Lung Study Hall also served as a study for the village children to learn the Chinese classics. As with the Liu Man Shek Tong, the Liu Ying Lung Study Hall was once a kindergarten for modern education between 1963 to 1988. As such, the Liu Ying Lung Study Hall is itself a testament of the Liu’s tradition of saluting erudition and education in its clan.
The Liu Ying Lung Study Hall is a Grade 1 Historic Building.
The Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall was built in the 16th year of the Qianlong Reign during the Qing dynasty (1751). Unlike most other ancestral halls in the New Territories, where they bear the name of a certain accomplished ancestor, the name Man Shek in this ancestral hall has a special story. According to the description on site,
Literally meaning 10,000 shi (“shek” a unit of measure for grain), the name “Man Shek” dates back to the Song dynasty… a distant ancestor of the clan, Liu Kong, and his four sons were all high government officials who each earned an annual salary of 2,000 shi of cereal, thus 10,000 shi in total. Their descendants named the ancestral hall “Liu Man Shek Tong” in their honour.
See more on the Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in my previous entry.
Antiquities Advisory Board, 1444 Historic Buildings Summary No. 1074 on No. 9, Second Lane, Chung Sum Tsuen (Chin).
Antiquities Advisory Board, Historic Building Appraisal, No. 1082 on No. 11, 1st Lane, Chung Sum Tsuen, Sheung Shui.
The Wikipedia on Lingnan Architecture (Chin).
Tungknow.blogspot.com on Ming Tek Tong Study Hall (Chin).
For all of my friends that visit Hong Kong for the first time, I always suggest the Peak as a must-do itinerary. Even for friends that have been there before, I would suggest visiting it again. The Peak offers a whole lot of things to …
Chenpi, the dried mandarin peel, is a specialty of Xinhui for as far as history remembers. In this part of China, the chenpi is so well-known that it is considered one of the three treasures of Guangdong, alongside with old ginger and straw. At first …
In this three-day, two-night trip, I tried three restaurants.
After the heaviest day of sightseeing on Day 2, I decided to treat myself at Daxia Tanbao Restaurant. It serves Malaysian cuisine and offers a few significant strengths in its dining experience.
First of all, I generally enjoy dining with a view. The Daxia Tanbao Restaurant is located right by the Tanjiang River, a section of which will eventually meet the Yamen Channel not very far south. The view at the restaurant was fantastic, right across from a kilometers-long row of densely grown bald cypress trees. At this time of the year, all the foliage remained red. This is the view that I was dining to.
The dining area is covered but semi-open in terms of ventilation. There was a big party that evening, but the dining hall was very spacious. The second great thing about Daxia Tanbao is the interesting menu. I opted for a one-person BBQ platter, to be cooked at the table by yourself over a charcoal lit stove with a piece of tile as the cooking “pan.”
The meat was quite good, in the platter there was marinated beef, Japanese grown pork, chicken, octopus sausage and two kinds of vegetables. It took me about 1.5 hours to finish my plate. Needless to say, I felt an incredible sense of satiation after eating all that food. I topped up with hot coffee and I paid about RMB 200 yuan for a fantastic time. If you do not want to do BBQ, there are also hotpot options, or otherwise just regular Southeast Asian dishes.
The address of Daxia Tanbao Restaurant is 50 Meters North of Tanjiang River, Jinguzhou Dahuabofuyu, Xinhui, Jiangmen, Guangdong.
On Day 1, I needed a quick and easy dinner after settling down at the hotel. I searched on the Gaode Map App and it pointed me to a few restaurants in the neighborhood. The first one that I looked at was too local for me. It was so local that I thought I went back in time to 1970s Guangzhou. Since there has been prevalent instances of food poisoning, I decided that cleanliness was key for dining in China.
I finally decided that I would just eat at the clean, brightly-lit, tidy restaurant right by the 7 Day Premium Hotel. The restaurant’s name is Xianggang Cai Yeye, Fresh Shrimp Wonton Noodles.
As I entered the restaurant, I noticed that the owner was handling his noodles in the shop. I knew he was the owner because the signage of the shop shows his caricature. He was surely very friendly, and so were his staff. I do remember the claypot rice of Jiangmen rather fondly, so I ordered a fish claypot rice. I figured that something so hot as a claypot rice would kill all germs and prevent me from catching food poisoning.
After chatting with the owner and the staff for a while, we started speaking Cantonese because he has worked in Hong Kong as a chef at Mak’s Noodle, which is likely the most well-known wonton noodle in Hong Kong.
The claypot was certainly very good. I enjoyed it much and decided that I would come back to try their wonton noodles. The shop does make the representation that you will get Mak’s Noodle here, and of course, at the price level of a small county in China.
I thought the wonton tasted quite close to Mak’s Noodle, but the noodles at this shop certainly has not achieved the bounciness and smoothness of the noodles of Mak’s Noodle. The soup was fine. Given its good price, I really wasn’t complaining.
Xianggang Cai Yeye is located on Nanyu Lu, between Qixiang Nanyujie (7th Alley of Nanyu Street) and Jiuxiang Nanyujie (9th Alley of Nanyu Street).
On Day 3, I must have some food early morning before heading out to the chenpi village. The dim sum restaurant in the neighborhood, which opens 24 hours a day, had to be my choice. Not too bad for a little something in the morning.
The address of Gongfuke is No. 83, Ground Floor, Huicheng Nanyu, Qixiang, Nanyujie, Xinhui, Jiangmen, Guangdong.
This trip to Xinhui is certainly not a foodie excursion, so I went easy on what I was going to eat. It turned out that I had a pretty good selection of satisfying meals.
After seeing the Lvmei Ecological Park and the Shijian Park, I was geared up for some historic sightseeing. The Yamen Fort came into mind. The Qing dynasty era old fort stands beautifully restored at the mouth of the Pearl River. It has a proud history …