Vignettes of the World
Once you’ve had Japanese food in Japan, you can never go back to Japanese food elsewhere. This has been the comment I have heard from many, many people. As this was my first trip ever to Japan, I naturally had high expectations for its food. …
The Gio-ji Temple lies in the quiet of Arashiyama’s back quarters, its petite garden covered in moss. Its humility is deceiving. Unlike the bigger temples, such as Tenryu-ji, Jojakko-ji or the Nison-in Temple, Gio-ji appears, at first glance, to pale significantly in terms of the …
If the 1,200 rakan statues that stand at the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple represent the Buddhist followers’ celebration of their faith in life, then the 8,000 stone markers at the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple are the proper tribute to death.
The sky opened up at this hour of the afternoon and an abundance of sunlight and warmth filled the air. From Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple I decided to walk back down to the Arashiyama area, of which I had some familiarity due to my tour in the previous day. I came upon Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, and to my surprise, I saw an unintended and unlikely juxtaposition between the two temples that presented the occasion for a philosophical appreciation of life, coming full circle from living to death.
The symphony of colors in Kyoto’s autumn easily distracts visitors from the ultimate purpose of temple visits. If anything, it should be a moment of renewal, a place and time to consider the larger questions in life.
But it was in fact the symphony of colors that drew me to the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple. At first, I only noticed a path lined with beautiful red foliage. I could not help but to embark upon this slightly inclined path. At the end of it, I found the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple.
There was a garden space but some unique gateways and structures there made the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple special. There was a mount, and a pagoda as well. I figured that the short stone pillars served some ceremonial purposes in death. The red foliage there was particularly vibrant. There was no eeriness amidst the bright sunshine of the day.
Like the church graveyards of medieval times in European countries, the temples of Japan were often sites of burials as well. The Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, however, originated from the burial of the dead.
During the Heian period, the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple had an eerie past as a site of open burial for those who had no family or friends who could oversee a proper rite for their passing. At some point in history, the remains were buried in a simple manner. The stone pillars memorialized the spirited, as grave markers.
The temple began when the famous monk Kukai (774-835 A.D.), who was the founder of Shingon Buddhism, established a temple in this area about 1,200 years ago. Even at the temple’s inception, it stood for the remembrance of the dead as the site of prayers for the departed.
Then the founder of Pure Land Buddhism, Honen (1133-1212 A.D.), turned the temple into the site of practice for nenbutsu. Nenbutsu is a ritual recitation of Amida Buddha. It will lead to a rebirth into the realm of paradise. Amida Buddha is the resident deity at the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple.
About 100 years ago during the Meiji period, there was effort to collect all the stone markers in the area. People placed them in a dedicated space, and they lit candles as an act of worship.
At Sai no Kawara, 8,000 stone grave markers stand. There is a festival of candle lighting annually to these lonely spirits at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple. At the Sento Kuyo festival, innumerable candles are lit amidst the grave markers in Sai no Kawara in late August each year for this event, a tradition that came from the Meiji period.
Finally, at the other end of the temple, having passed through the Sai no Kawara, I saw a section of a bamboo grove that was truly serene, with few souls there. I could take photographs any way I wanted. If you do not manage to see the famous bamboo grove of Arashiyama, this would be a perfect alternative.
If you ask me, however, I’d say the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple is worthy of a visit in its own right.
Properly speaking, this area is in fact beyond the Arashiyama / Sagano area already. The Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street features old traditional Japanese houses called machiya’s. They often come with pitched roofs and the structures are built of wood. They are now mostly shops and businesses.
The official website of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple at https://nenbutsuji.jp/eng/#a-yurai
www.japan.travel, Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple at https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1143/.
Wonderful Japan, Saga Toriimoto at https://www.wonderful-japan.com/en/saga-toriimoto/
The Hehu Xinju is in so many ways representative of Hakka culture in both Shenzhen and in China. In this tour of the enormous Hakka residential complex, I learned about the significance of the Luo family, who established its prominence in Shenzhen since the Qianlong …
Sheung Shui Heung, also known as Sheung Shui Wai, is traditionally of the Liu surname. As a large centuries-long settlement area for indigenous villagers, Sheung Shui Heung has a few heritage sites worthy of visiting. I have discussed the stately Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral …
For all of my friends that visit Hong Kong for the first time, I always suggest the Peak as a must-do itinerary. Even for friends that have been there before, I would suggest visiting it again. The Peak offers a whole lot of things to do that well justify a few visits.
The Victoria Peak, in Cantonese Tai Ping Shan, is the highest hill of Hong Kong Island at 552 meters. It was once part of the City of Victoria in the early colonial times. The British found it necessary to escape the heat and the dampness of Hong Kong, and they began building grand residences at the Peak. Not only that, they made the Peak exclusively British and European. By the operation of the Peak District Preservation Ordinance (1904), the Peak was off bounds to the Chinese people of Hong Kong, until 1945 or so.
Before the construction of the Peak Tram in 1888, the European residents of the Peak would take sedan chairs as borne by the coolies to reach their lavish homes. In its earliest days, the Peak Tram served exclusively Europeans during the normal hours.
It was in the last year that the sixth generation of Peak Tram began serving Hong Kong. In the plaza, close to the Peak Lookout, you will see a tram of a much older generation. Go in and feel for the experience of a bygone era.
In Martin Booth’s book, Gweilo, Memories of a Hong Kong Childhood, Booth discusses his experience growing up at the peak as a British person in Hong Kong. He had incredible adventures growing up at the Peak in the 1960s or so.
Since the Chinese people were able to live at the Peak, the area has become a place for the ultra wealthy in Hong Kong. Properties at the Peak are always the most expensive in the Hong Kong market. It has remained so for decades, and still now.
For first timers looking to visit the Peak, I suggest the following.
Take Green top Minibus Route 1 from the IFC (the station is beneath the overpass next to CitySuper) or the double decker Bus Route 15 from the Central Pier No. 5 and get off at the final stop at the Peak Galleria. After taking photos and touring at the Peak, take the Peak Tram back to the Peak Tram Lower Terminus. From there you are in the vicinity to the historic sites of Central, including the St. John’s Cathedral, Tai Kwun, Duddell Street Steps and Gas Lamps and more.
There are a few spots to view Hong Kong’s famous skyline at the Peak. My advice to visitors is to never pay for this view at the Sky Terrace 428 on top of the Peak Tower. The Lion Pavilion presents equally good views. Another spot is to view at a deck at the Peak Galleria, which is also free for visitors.
From the Peak Tram terminus, find your way to Findlay Road toward the east. Walk for just two minutes and look out for the entrance to the Lion Pavilion on your left. The photograph above is what you expect to see there.
Needless to say, this is an exceedingly popular spot. Be prepared that you have to wait a bit before you secure a good spot for your photographs.
The Lion Pavilion is also known locally as the Lo Tsun Ting (“lo tsun,” in local lingo, refers to someone who is gullible and is deceived by others. As to why this pavilion has such an odd local reference, it is a story for another occasion). Its proper name is actually Ming Yan Ting Pavilion.
Be it at the viewing deck at the Peak Tower or at the Lion Pavilion, neither point is the actual summit of Victoria Peak. Suffice to say, you will see all of Hong Kong Island’s northern shoreline, a significant part of Kowloon, going as far as the Lion Rock, at the touristy area.
Like all touristy spots in Hong Kong, the Peak offers an incredible array of choices for food. Both the Peak Tower and the Peak Galleria feature all kinds of restaurants. For a quick and easy meal, I suggest Mak’s Noodle, namely the most expensive and (arguably) the best wonton noodles in Hong Kong.
The McDonald’s at the Peak Galleria is also the one that comes with the most beautiful view out of all of the McDonald’s in Hong Kong. I typically have a small bowl of wonton noodles at Mak’s Noodle and then head over to McDonald’s for coffee.
If you want a proper dining experience at a heritage site at the Peak, the Peak Lookout is for you. As a dining establishment, the Peak Lookout serves international cuisine and the food is of high quality. I particularly enjoy its Indian cuisine. Its naan is heavenly with curry.
Formerly Old Peak Café, the Peak Lookout was built in 1888 as a place of rest for the engineers and workers that built the Peak Tram. In 1901, it became the chair shelter and rest stop for carriers of sedan chairs. By 1947, the idea of a dining establishment emerged with the setting up of light refreshments on this site. Over the next decades, it has evolved to the mid-ranged restaurant with upscale ambience that it is today.
The architecture of the Peak Lookout reminds one of an English cottage. It is single story, with stone walls, pitched roof and a chimney. The roof is made of Chinese tiles. Its arched windows are part of the original Arts and Crafts architectural style that is at once eclectic with the structure’s current Chinese tile roof.
For Hong Kong locals, the Peak Lookout is particularly nostalgic because it was one of the late Leslie Cheung’s favorite restaurants. Leslie Cheung is fondly remembered as one of Hong Kong’s once most popular Cantopop singer and movie actor.
The Peak Lookout is a Grade 2 Historic Building.
For local or second-time visitors, I highly suggest a few short hikes. The easiest one is the Lugard Loop around the Peak, which will take you through Lugard Road from the eastern city views to the western rustic island views. This loop has no climbing and takes a little over an hour.
A slightly more rigorous option is the Mount High West climb. Its starting point is along the Lugard Loop at the park area. At the end of this walk, you will see aerial views, having clocked in some exercise.
Another historic ruins in the Peak area is the Pinewood Battery, which features military installations that had engaged in battles against the Japanese forces during WWII. You may walk down from the Peak (certainly up as well, it is a nice walk), and pass by the Pinewood Battery on your way.
The Wikipedia on Victoria, Hong Kong.
The Wikipedia on Victoria Peak.
The Wikipedia on the Peak Lookout.
HKABC’s Youtube Channel on The Ridiculous Peak District Preservation Ordinance (Chin).
Chenpi, the dried mandarin peel, is a specialty of Xinhui for as far as history remembers. In this part of China, the chenpi is so well-known that it is considered one of the three treasures of Guangdong, alongside with old ginger and straw. At first …
In this three-day, two-night trip, I tried three restaurants. After the heaviest day of sightseeing on Day 2, I decided to treat myself at Daxia Tanbao Restaurant. It serves Malaysian cuisine and offers a few significant strengths in its dining experience. Daxia Tanbao (Daxia Charcoal …
After seeing the Lvmei Ecological Park and the Shijian Park, I was geared up for some historic sightseeing. The Yamen Fort came into mind. The Qing dynasty era old fort stands beautifully restored at the mouth of the Pearl River. It has a proud history to speak of, and a sense of antiquity breathes through the fort at the near-dusk hours.
It took about a 50-minute car ride from Shijian Park to the Yamen Fort. I arrived at about 6 minutes after 4:30pm, which was its closing time. At first, the guard stopped me from entering, and I begged him for me to take just a quick look for pictures. There were still tourists inside, and as a result he let me in.
The opening hours of the Yamen Fort is Tuesdays to Sundays 9:30am to 4:30pm. It might open on a national public holiday but you should inquire before going. There is no admissions fee for the Yamen Fort. It takes just about less than half hour to see the fort itself and to photograph it.
The earliest military installations at the Yamen Fort took place during the 57th year of the Kangxi reign (1718) in the Qing dynasty. The full facility came into place in the 14th year of the Jiaqing reign (1809).
Yamen acquired its Chinese name due to the Yashan Mountain in the east and the Tangmingshan Mountain in the west. At this location, the imagery is that of a half-open gate (men) at the Yashan Mountain, thus Yamen. The Yamen Fort is located on the eastern shore of the Yamen mouth of Pearl River. This is one of the eight mouths of the Pearl River, where it meets the South China Sea. As such, this is a strategic location for defense purposes.
The Yamen Fort is the largest single-structure ancient fort in Guangdong Province. It was constructed in the shape of a half-moon, facing the river. The middle gun platform faces right into the Yamen River mouth. The foundation and the body of the fort were constructed with granite and Greystone respectively. At a length of 180 meters and a height of 6 meters, the fort features two rows of gun platforms on the upper and lower levels, with a total of 43 cannon holes. These cannons point at the Yamen River mouth to effectuate maximum defense.
In the mountain at the back of the fort, there used to be supportive defensive facilities, such as ammunition storage and underground pathways to the barracks. However, due to disrepair, these structures have already collapsed.
In 1961, the Xinhui County People’s Government allocated funds to restore the Yamen Fort. In 2005, the Xinhui District People’s Government again conducted significant reconstruction and restoration work here as well.
Throughout its history, the Yamen Fort had served its defensive purpose in many occasions. During the Qing dynasty, it was a formidable defense against pirates approaching this part of Guangdong. During the Opium Wars, Lin Zexu, the Viceroy of Huguang, commanded a heavy defensive position in this location. There was no actual battle against the British forces here, but the descriptions on site suggest that the heavy fortification then had the effect of stalling a plan of attack. There is no verification on this point of history. Finally, during the Anti-Japanese Resistance effort of WWII, there were battles against the impending Japanese forces at the Yamen Fort as well.
Very relevant to the history of Yamen is the historic battle that took place in this part of China at the turn of the Song and Yuan Dynasties. Although there was no actual record of the exact location of this battle, it is well-known that the key battle that signified the final demise of the Song Dynasty took place in Yamen, Xinhui. This battle was known as the Yamen Sea Battle.
For a brief historical context, the Southern Song Dynasty was a result of the gradual decline of the Song Dynasty. The Jin Dynasty took over the Northern Song Dynasty, and the Song imperial court started the Southern Song Dynasty with the capital in Hangzhou in 1127 A.D.
Toward the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the Mongolian forces, which were known for their warrior propensities, that would become the Yuan Dynasty seized territory after territory against the Southern Song Dynasty’s strongholds in southern China. As a result, the remaining generals that were loyal to the very young Song Emperor Duanzong continued its exile. Both Emperor Duanzong and the later Emperor Di Bing would be on exile in Hong Kong for a while. They then ended up fleeing north to Guangdong.
Emperor Duanzong was nearly drowned as the troops attempted to flee in ships. He died soon, leaving his brother Emperor Di Bing, the very last emperor of the Song Dynasty, to be the last and certainly dimmed hope for the dynasty.
At the Yamen Sea Battle, the Song forces lined up in a horizontal manner as they gathered all their fleets, numbering more than a thousand. Some were battle ships but a lot of them were merely reinforced civilian vessels. It is believed that the Song forces were 200,000-strong. The Yuan forces surrounded the Song fleets on three sides. They were actually outnumbered, with 70,000 fighters and 400 battleships.
After a failed attempt to destroy the Song troops with a fire attack, the Yuan forces then surrounded the fleets and cut off their supply route to the land. The soldiers and Song supporters relied on their food reserves for more than ten days, but their water ran out. The battle would go on for 23 days. It is also remembered to be one of the “Four Great Naval Battles in China.”
It is worth mentioning that, Wen Tianxiang, who was a lauded loyalist to the Southern Song Dynasty, was kept captive at the Yuan ships. He watched the battle unfold and wrote a beautiful poem to lament the fall of his beloved Song Dynasty. He is one of the most celebrated patriotic heroes throughout Chinese history.
In the year 1279, Song Dynasty finally fell as tens of thousands of the very last military sinew of the Song Dynasty committed suicide on the sea. A general bore the very young Emperor Di Bing and also plunged into the sea together, thus ending the Southern Song Dynasty’s 152 years of ruling in southern China.
Having won this battle, the Yuan forces took over all of the territory in central China.
If you have a half a day for this area of Xinhui, you may consider visiting the Xinhui Songyuan Yamen Sea War Culture Tourist Zone nearby the fort. It is a tour with detailed narratives about the naval defense of China in the ancient times, in particular the Yamen Sea Battle, with many photogenic spots.
Descriptions on site at the Yamen Fort.
The Wikipedia on The First Opium War (Chin).
The Wikipedia on Yamen Sea Battle (Chin).
I had to leave and return to Xinhui in order to have a proper meal. I checked the Gaode Map App and realized that I could in fact walk from Lvmei Ecological Park to Shijian Park, which was what I intended to see next. The …