Ho Sheung Heung
Ho Sheung Heung is an established village with a long history in Sheung Shui. Its beginning can be traced back to 800 years ago, as far back as the Yuan Dynasty.
Four villages together make up the larger area known as Ho Sheung Heung. They are Nam Bin Wai, Pak Bin Wai, Chung Sum Tsuen and Chong Yuen San Tsuen.
The Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall
There are two historic sites of significance in Ho Sheung Heung. Of primary importance is the Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall.
The Hau’s are perhaps the most prominent clan in Ho Sheung Heung, due to their long history and notable presence in the area. The genealogy of the Hau’s goes back to the earliest settlement in the now-Hebei area of China. During the Song Dynasty, the Hau’s moved southward to Guangdong. Onwards to the Ming Dynasty, Hau Cheuk-Fung, an 11th generation descendant, learned about this fertile farmland area and settled down in Ho Sheung Heung. It has been 600 years since the Hau’s found their home here.
The Hau’s built the Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall during the late Ming Dynasty to memorialise the 17th generation ancestor Hau Ku-shek. The wooden plaque above the main facade is dated to the 27th year of the Qianlong Reign of the Qing Dynasty. This indicates that the ancestral hall was renovated that year.
As an ancestral hall, the main purpose that it serves is the commemoration of ancestors. The altar in the middle hall remains the site of ancestral reverence. Of the three halls in the Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall, and the rear hall, of two storeys, once served as the village school. The lower level served as the teachers’ accommodation, and the upper level was the site for instruction. The school closed during WWII. The rear hall was once the venue for the Ho Kai Kindergarten until the 1970s.
There are some notable architectural features at the Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall. The beams feature carefully carved figurines, usually in auspicious patterns or depict a scene of famous Chinese folklores.
The Hung Shing and Pai Fung Temples
Besides the Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall, the Hung Shing Temple, and the Pai Fung Temple next to it, are Grade 3 historic buildings. While the exact date of construction for the Hung Shing Temple is unknown, it must have existed since the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty. The Pai Fung Temple, on the other hand, had an original location close to Pai Fung Leng in the northern side of the village. Due to the construction of the Lo Wu Barracks by the Hong Kong Government, the temple moved to its current location in 1937.
The villagers celebrate the birthday of Hung Shing on the 13th day of the second month of the Lunar New Year every year (before the pandemic). This period of festivities lasted four days typically. A traditional village feast of Poon Choi (treasures in a tub) would serve hundreds of villagers at one time. Then there were the Cantonese opera shows including the operas offered to the deities. In one year, the villagers held a parade as well.
One unique feature of the Hung Shing birthday celebrations of Ho Sheung Heung was the grabbing contest for fa pao (paper floral tributes). The grabbing of the paper floral tributes is believed to bring auspiciousness for the year. Unlike the peace bun contest in the Cheung Chau celebrations of Buddha’s Birthday, the grabbing of the paper floral tributes are more “orderly.” Whoever first grabs the paper floral tribute would raise his hand, and wins the auspiciousness of the occasion.
Hung Shing was originally named Hung Hei. He lived during the Tang Dynasty and served as the district magistrate of Kwong Lee. He had an exceptional knowledge in geography and astronomy. With this skill he helped predict the weather in order to protect the fishermen who were out fishing in the seas. Although a caring and dedicated official, he died, unfortunately, prematurely because of overwork. The Emperor commemorated him by conferring the title of “King Hing Shing of Kwong Lee.” Since then, the people revered him as the god of protection.
There is a folkloric tale that goes around in the Hau clan. Before the Hau’s settled down in Ho Sheung Heung, there were the Lam, Poon, Wan and Chiu clans in this area. A villager stole the golden brass drum of the Emperor. Enraged, the Emperor ordered the whole village killed. The imperial guards traced the footsteps of Hung Shing here. While they were at it, a flock of ducks ran out and obliterated the footprints of Hung Shing. As such, the imperial guards could not find him. The Haus settled down here after this incident and thrived as the main clan of the village. Therefore when they sacrificed livestock for the deities, they would not kill ducks.
In 2012, the two temples underwent significant renovations. In 2013, the renovations completed and the Antiquities and Monuments Office declared them to be Grade 3 Historic Buildings in 2014.
Besides its rich heritage, Ho Sheung Heung has great natural endowment. On its north sits the Pai Fung Leng, and the Sheung Yue River flowing on its eastern border. Further east is the Long Valley, where fields still line its fertile farmland today. Indeed, this large swathe of low plains was the main attraction to the Hau ancestors. For centuries, agriculture was the main means of livelihood for the villagers.
Tofu Bash at Ho Sheung Heung
Today, the village remains a vibrant community. In fact, the village is as much known for its commerce as its history and people. The soy products of Mei Mei Tofu and Mrs. Lo’s Tofu are very popular. In the pre-pandemic days, the restaurants offered all-you-can-eat silky tofu dessert and soy milk. As such, the area drew significant crowds coming in large tour coaches. Some pretty special items are availabe here, including fermented rose tofu paste and silky tofu in black soy.
Soy tasting aside, the rustic environment itself is also a business opportunity. The Anytime, Anywhere Café offers a beautiful space for a lazy afternoon by the pond. The whole venue is available for hosting large parties, including barbeque.
When visiting the village, a tour of the residential areas can take an hour or so. There are some old houses still standing, but most of the houses in the village are now modern homes. Do take a walk at the Sheung Yue River right next to the village.
How to Get There
At the minibus station of Sheung Shui Station, take green top Minibus 51K. The minibus has the final stop at the Hau Ku Shek Ancestral Hall.
Sources
The Wikipedia on Ho Sheung Heung.
The historical descriptions of the Ho Ku Shek Ancestral Hall pamphlet by the Antiquities and Monuments Office.
Legislative Council Brief, Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance (Cap 53), Antiquities and Monuments (Declaration of Historic Buildings) Notice 2014.
The Traditions of Ho Sheung Heung’s Hung Shing Birthday Celebrations, Epoch Times, May 2, 2018.