From Hong Mui Kuk to Amah Rock

The Chinese name of Amah Rock means the “husband-yearning rock.”

“Why do you always go to these haunted places?”  A good friend said when I told her that I would like to visit the Amah rock.  Like so many places in Hong Kong that come with long-standing, folksy legends, the Amah Rock is believed to be haunted as well.

The Legend

On the way from Shatin to Kowloon via the Lion Rock Tunnel, one would notice a large rock on the summit ranges.  Its stature reminds one of a kneeling woman with a swaddled baby on her back.  Perhaps she was in a praying posture as well, for she was watching far out to the sea, yearning for her husband’s safe return from fishing.  She waited for so long that she turned into a rock, and thus forever waiting.  Indeed, back in the long-forgotten days the part of Shatin that she looks on was the sea, before the government reclaimed land to develop the satellite city.  While the rock probably preceded its story, the legend itself has also stood the test of time.  This moving legend passed from my parents’ generation to me, and it will continue to fascinate the generations to come.

The Trail

From the Hong Mui Kuk Barbeque Area, take the steps on the left and ascend.  This section of the trail takes about 15 to 20 minutes.  Once arriving at the aqueduct, look right ahead and you will see the sign for Amah Rock.  The trail up to Amah Rock is before you.  At the crossroad, head over the steps on your right, follow the sign for Amah Rock.  The trail on the left will lead you to Lion Rock.  The ascent to Amah Rock will take another 15 to 20 minutes, and you will cross one stream.

Photos: The entrance to the Amah Rock trail is right ahead of you, cross the aqueduct.

Photos: You will cross a stream on the Amah Rock trail.  Where you see these big rocks, the end is in sight.

Back on the path along the aqueduct, it’s worthwhile to take a 10 minute walk.  At the pagoda one can view the Amah Rock from afar.  This view perhaps better expresses the yearning figure than the view up close at the rock.  Overall, a walk-through of the two trails and the aqueduct (with views of Shatin and the mountains) will take about 1.5 hours.

Reminders

The area is believed to be haunted.  Although I do not believe in it, I do think that one must exercise extra caution in exploring the small area around the rock.  There are exceptional views of Tai Wai and Shatin there.  Do not miss a step while you admire the aerial views of the city.

Photos: views of Tai Wai up at Amah Rock.  Don’t miss a step!

How to Get There

I went by private car.  There is a metered lot at the Lion Rock end of Hong Mui Kuk Road.  By public transport, take buses that run along the Lion Rock Tunnel. Routes 80, 85, 85B, 86A, 87B, 89B, 170, 182, 281M, N170 , N182 , N281 take you to the World Wide Gardens stop.  Then cross the road (carefully, the cars go very fast as it is part of the ramp leading to the freeway).  Head up the stairs that lead you to the Hong Mui Kuk barbeque area.

Photo: the metered lot at the end of Hong Mui Kuk Road