A Symphony of Colors – The Nonomiya Shrine
The very last sightseeing on my first day in Arashiyama was the Nonomiya Shrine.
The Nonomiya-jinja Shrine is a Shinto shrine. Because of its nature as a native faith in Japan, it differs quite significantly from the elaborate temples of Arashiyama, both in terms of its history and its ambience. Yet, as a Shinto shrine, the Nonomiya-jinja Shrine had a very specific and unique role in imperial history as well.
The Nonomiya Shrine comes from the Heian period. It served as the venue of a religious practice in antiquity, “successive imperial princesses stayed in the Nonomiya Shrine for a year or more to purify themselves before becoming representatives of the imperial family a the Ise Shrine in Mie prefecture.” (Wikipedia on Nonomiya Shrine). These imperial priestesses were called Saigu. At the time of founding, the Nonomiya Shrine served Princess Ninshi, a daughter of Emperor Saga, who served as Saigu from 809 to 903 A.D. at Ise Jingu, which was the most important shrine in the country.
As Saigu, the princess carried out rituals and offerings, and I assume that meant she was the religious ambassador to pray on behalf of her country.
In classic 11th century Japanese literature, the Tale of Genji, which is said by some to be the world’s first novel, has a chapter set in the Nomomiya Shrine. The plot involves the love story between Prince Genji and Lady Rokujo. Lady Rokujo accompanied her daughter to the shrine for purification rites, and as she met her lover Prince Genji here, they bid farewell by the moonlight in this beautiful setting amidst the bamboo woods in Arashiyama.
Perhaps it is due to this history that the shrine is now where the faithful seek intercession for love and fertility. The female-oriented heritage of the shrine is very much alive today. Modern processions recreate a scene as shown in a scroll of the imperial court during the Heian period. This procession begins at the Nonomiya-jinja Shrine and ends at the Togetsu-kyo Bridge.
As to the touring, I learned that there were other types of specific prayers at the sub shrines at Nonomiya-jinja. If I read the kanji correctly, a shrine offers fortunes in wealth and safety in travels as well.
The torii gates here were the first ones that I saw in my life. In this trip, I did not have the opportunity to see the Fushimi Inari-taisa. This would be my only view of the gateways that typify Japanese religion and culture on this trip.
Sources
The Wikipedia on Nonomiya Shrine.
Discover Kyoto on Nonomiya Jinja.