A Symphony of Colors –The Kiyomizu-dera Temple at Night
The adventurous lunch of the day was at a convenience store. I have long heard that the convenience stores of Japan serve up wonderful egg salad sando’s. And it certainly lived up to its good name.
From the 7-Eleven, going on Matsubara-dori, was a gentle walk up to reach the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, which lies at the foothill range from the peak of the Otowa Mountain. Located on the eastern side of Kyoto, this area is called Higashiyama, meaning “Eastern Mountain,” with rolling ridges in the mountainous range.
While the walk was easy, there was a throng of tourists and expect to not really being able to walk at your own pace.
There were plenty of shops on the sides selling beautiful Japanese crafts, as well as snacks of all kinds in the flavor spectrum.
Arriving at the Symphony of Colors at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple
At this touristy spot, Kyoto was festive and lively. The air became increasingly fresh as one continued to climb up, and the autumn colors came into view, from the evergreen that was the pine trees to the dark amber and flushed scarlet of the Japanese maple and the shrubs of Azaleas. The trees at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple are mostly of one species, namely of the Japanese maple, and as such when they change colors, they do so uniformly.
The sensation of viewing a large swathe of crimson foliage was much more than what meets the eye. At this season, the nature of Kyoto exhibits a repertoire of colors, the very tone of which warms up the atmosphere, fully compensating for the cold currents that were circulating in the air. It was a warmth that enters through one’s vision into the depths of the soul. I was moved, to say the least, by the brilliant display of nature’s craftsmanship.
The appearance of the Niomon Gate indicates the entrance into one of the most worshipped sites in Kyoto.
Meaning “The Pure Water Monastery,” the Kiyomizu-dera Temple stands holy on Mt. Otowa, by the Otowa spring, which still flows today. The resident deity Kannon, known for compassion, graces the Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Kannon is an 11-headed and thousand-armed Bodhisattva. Chiefly in the teaching of the Kiyomizu-dera Temple was the idea that Buddhism contributes to the society. Since the times of the chief abbot of the temple, Ryokei Onishi Wajo, the temple has been committed to the work of the public good, including the caring of the elderly and disaster victims.
A Very Brief History of the Kiyomizu-dera Temple
The Kiyomizu-dera Temple was born of the vision of Monk Enchin Shonin from Nara. It was founded in the year 778 A.D. At that distant point in history, Japan’s capital was in Nara, until the Emperor relocated his seat of authority to Kyoto in 794 A.D., in his attempt to avoid the increasingly intermeddling influence of the Nara Buddhists in matters of politics.
Having received this vision, Enchin Shonin came to Kyoto. He met an ascetic Buddhist, Gyoei-koji, who instructed him to build a sacred statue of Kannon. That was how Enchin Shonin came to guard the sacred hut of Gyoei-koji by the waterfall, and eventually established the temple. Two years later, warrior Sakanoue-no-Tamuramaro was hunting in this location for deer. Having met Enchin Shonin, he learned about the teachings of compassion. As shogun Tamuramaro, he was the benefactor of the Kiyomizu-dera Temple in establishing it and improving the site significantly.
The Buddhists of Japan have long had influence in politics and society, and the Kiyomizu-dera Temple was no exception. It is said that the Kiyomizu-dera Temple was a rivalry of the Kofuku-ji Temple.
When chief abbot Ryokei Onishi Wajo took over the leadership of the temple in 1965, he adopted the Hosso Sect of Nara Buddhism, and Kiyomizu-dera Temple became the representative of the Kita (Northern) Hosso Sect.
The current structures standing in Kiyomizu-dera Temple were constructed in 1633 on the orders of shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu, who had also made significant effort in expanding the structures of the Nijo Castle. All of the wooden structures were destroyed by fire for many times, and they were reconstructed numerous times in their history. Architecturally, there has been not one nail used in building these structures, this is a wonder in terms of technique, but common in all of Japan’s ancient buildings.
Some Tips for Viewing Night Foliage Scenery at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple
In the winter, the Kiyomizu-dera Temple is lit up for night scenery amidst its fall foliage, and it would be an understatement to call it fantastic. I really encourage visitors to plan for night scenery viewing in the Kiyomizu-dera Temple (and other temples in Kyoto as well, as I did also for the Eikando Temple).
In terms of timing, I encourage visitors to arrive at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple by 3:30pm or so. In this way you will be able to capture breathtaking scenery there both in daylight and in the early evening. Around 4pm or so, you would not really have a choice, as the throng will push you toward the viewing platform at Okuno-in Hall, where you will see the Main Hall against the silhouette of Kyoto City. That is the time when everybody wishes to grab a prime spot for photo taking. 4pm or so is when people mark their spots.
Thereafter, you are stuck in the crowd, until the dusk has befallen. The lights will turn on around 5:15 to 5:30pm. Yes, you will be standing there in an increasingly freezing temperature, until the moment comes when you can appreciate the Main Hall in nightlights. Therefore, wear warm clothing no matter what the day was feeling like. By that hour, it will be cold up in the mountainous climate of Higashiyama.
I thought the night scenery at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple was truly a marvel to behold. But the evening had descended, so had the cold, and I decided that I must have hot food. I bid farewell to Kiyomizu-dera Temple, and headed toward the direction of the Yasaka Jinja Shrine, which lies in the Gion District.
Sources
The website of the Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
The Wikipedia on the Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Seasonal Japanese Garden, Kiyomizu-dera Temple.