Tai Kwun is the former Central Police Station that operated during the early colonial days until the 2000’s. Standing as a revitalized cultural space consisting of three declared monuments, Tai Kwun presents the public with an opportunity to revisit a part of Hong Kong history that was once ridden with the unpleasantries of a sometimes-unjust system of justice.

A Brief History of Tai Kwun

In 1841 when Britain formally took over Hong Kong, the Colonial Government set up the Hong Kong Police Force. The first “police station” in Hong Kong was a mere mat-shed shelter on a site next to what would become Tai Kwun in Central. Captain William Caine was the Chief Magistrate then overseeing the development of the Hong Kong Police Force.

Tai Kwun, meaning “the big police station,” served as the headquarters for law enforcement between the late 19^th century and the Second World War. It became the regional headquarters for Hong Kong Island after the war, as it was also the police station for the Central district. With its decommission in 2004, it stepped down from its former role as a law enforcement institute.

A Tour at Tai Kwun

In Tai Kwun there are about 20 blocks of buildings that served various functions in the former Central Police Station. In my opinion, there are four must-see structures. As three of them are declared monuments, they are representative of the collective history of Tai Kwun.

The Police Headquarters Block

Facing Hollywood Road is the Central Police Station. Now serving mostly as a space of exhibitions displaying aspects of Hong Kong’s local history and culture, the Police Headquarters Block stands grand and stately as what might be the most eye-catching architecture in this part of Central.

The Police Headquarters Block was built in 1919. The Police Headquarters Block is one of the few surviving 19^th century police stations in Hong Kong. The other ones are the Police Museum (formerly Wan Chai Gap Police Station at the Peak), Old Tai Po Police Station, the Tai O Heritage Hotel (Old Tai O Police Station, built 1902), and the 1881 Heritage (former Marine Police Headquarters), amongst others. I have covered almost all of them, save for the Old Stanley Police Station.

The letters G and R on the façade of the Police Headquarters Block refers to the ruling monarch at the time, his majesty King George V.

The Central Magistracy

The Central Magistracy was the first building in Tai Kwun’s ensemble of former law enforcement agencies. Built in 1841, the year that the British took over Hong Kong as its colony, the Central Magistracy was an indispensable arm of colonial administration as the “busiest court of justice” that tried more than three million people. (Descriptions on site) In 1847, the second Central Magistracy was built, also at this site.

The current Magistracy building was a structure of 1915. In its architecture, the fasces, which were the bundles of rods used for corporeal punishment by Roman magistrates, were symbols of authority that found its expression in the very exterior of the building.

In the museum’s own words, “early magistrates dispensed harsh punishments under a system of unequal laws.” There is a section of the various punishments given out only to the Chinese people in the museum as well, showing cruelty in caning and the stocks.

This practice originated from the fact that the early colonial officials thought that the Chinese people were accustomed to more severe punishments. But eventually, orders from London prohibited unequal and inhumane treatments. As rightly put by the museum, “over the decades, a fairer system of justice emerged as social conditions improved.” And this is the system of justice that had laid the foundation for Hong Kong’s later success as a cosmopolitan world city.

Perhaps an interesting historical note to make here is the fact that there are three entrances to the Central Magistracy, and they were used by different persons in those bygone times. One entrance, facing Arbuthnot Road, was for the magistrates.

There are a few doors that allowed public access. Finally, the entrance next to the famous staircase was for the persons being tried. This staircase was made famous by the preliminary hearing of the Godber case. On trial was the corrupted Police Chief Superintendent that had allegedly taken bribes worth more than 4 million Hong Kong dollars in 1973. Godber entered the courthouse by ascending these steps.

After World War II, the Central Magistracy was the venue for the Military Court that heard trials of Japanese war criminals.

The Victoria Prison

Known as the Victoria Gaol in the earliest days, the Victoria Prison was a structure of 1842 as the longest-running prison in Hong Kong’s history.

An intriguing fact that I learned at the Tai Kwun was that Ho Chi Minh, the most significant statesman and founder of communist Vietnam, had once been kept in the Victoria Prison.

In 1930, Ho Chi Minh came to Hong Kong as he fled from the French authorities. The Hong Kong Police captured him in 1931 and kept him at the Victoria Prison. In Ho Chi Minh’s own words, “high above one’s head was a small half-moon window covered with a grid of iron bars. By day, the light in the cell was dim. The door to the cell was solid and, at eye level, had a peephole shaped like a megaphone.”

Perhaps it is appropriate to note here that the Victoria Prison was once the repatriation and transit center for the Vietnamese refugees, as Hong Kong was formerly the port of first asylum for them.

A tour of the Victoria Prison will take you through the six former structures of incarceration, from Hall A to Hall F. Of these, Hall B has been preserved in its original layout, hosting 78 cells. Hall B was an extension block that served as the extension of the Victoria Prison due to overcrowding. It was the construction work of the prisoners themselves. Hall B was a high security block, the intention of which was to house the most serious offenders of the law. There is indeed a slightly eerie vibe in Hall B.

The Barrack Block

Steeped in historic vibes, the Barrack Block is also a beautiful structure with a neoclassical façade. Built in 1864, the Barrack Block gave home to 200 single constables and also single and married sergeants.

It also has an imposing architecture with granite staircases and floors. It was built to meet the same style as a British military barrack. A veranda, as the typical feature of colonial buildings in Hong Kong, lies by the parade ground.

Other Facilities to Note

While I enjoyed all of the sightseeing above, I found the Chapel Mural to be particularly soothing amidst a history that was slightly heavy and haunting.

The Chapel Mural was breathtaking in its ageless gracefulness. It felt like a world that contained a serenity of its own.

Tai Kwun Today

As a whole, the Centra Police Station Compound was decommissioned by 2004. Thereafter, the structures were restored to prepare for a new, bright chapter of its history, as a space for arts, culture and history learning since 2018. As with all major revitalized heritage sites in Hong Kong, there is always the element of leisure, as shown in the thriving business scene on site. Many restaurants establish their presence at the Barack Block. I managed to find somewhere more low-key, a coffee shop in Tai Kwun that was all around perfect.

Tozzo

It might be a little difficult to find Tozzo on 2/F, JC Contemporary. I had to make my way to the JC Contemporary building further back from the Victoria Prison, then made my way to second floor, which, as a space for exhibitions, did not appear to be a place for leisurely coffee.

But it is there, and I asked for seating outside.

At the terrace overlooking the tiled roof of the Barrack Block, you will have a brief moment of respite from the crowds of tourists that are ever so aggressive in their photo taking. The ambience is clean, relaxed and hip at Tozzo.

Its menu features a reasonable array of choices, both savory and sweet. I opted for a sandwich and it was quite good.

In all considerations, the Tai Kwun has retired into an age of glory by now.

Sources

Antiquities and Monuments Office on Former Central Police Compound, Central.

Descriptions on site at Tai Kwun.

The Wikipedia on the Central Magistracy (Chin).

The Wikipedia on Victoria Prison.