Ubiquitously Uzbekistan – The Bolo Hauz Mosque and the Chor Minor
A night of thunderstorm and rain has restored Bukhara’s muffled air of the previous day into crisp, clean breezes. The morning sunlight greeted us and we enjoyed the blessing of generous good weather for this last full day in Bukhara.
The day would be packed with a lot of sightseeing. We were first to visit the animal market, then to the Bolo Hauz, Chor Minor, the Sitorai Mokhi Khosa, the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, and finally a local spice shop, where I gathered all the ingredients necessary for my replication of the plov and the shaslik back home in Hong Kong.
We tried to go to the Animal Market twice, on both Friday and Saturday, but failed to find it both times. It was supposed to be where trades of large animals take place with on-site slaughtering, and properly considered it offers tourists an experience of the dins of a local butcher and trade market. We were told that it would open, really, on Sunday, which would be the day after the two days that we visited. However, we would be leaving Bukhara by train on that very evening.
Failing the Animal Market, we wanted to head back to the hotel. When we passed by the Bolo Hauz Mosque, which lies right across from the West Gate of the Ark, we decided to get off.
The Bolo Hauz Mosque
The Bolo Hauz Mosque is absolutely beautiful. As I have noted in a previous entry, it comes with unique architectural features that resemble the Djome Mosque at the Ark. Under the gentle sunlight of Bukhara at 8am in the morning, the Bolo Hauz Mosque revealed itself in a kind of peaceful glow – standing grand and assured of its historic and religious significance.
There were some early bird tourists on that day and they were Uzbeks. Some women came to pray and worship.
We spent a lot of time just admiring the mosque from different angles. Its stately image was fully mirrored by the pond before it, and we absorbed this view in awe. Indeed, the pond, which gives this mosque its name (a “Hauz” refers to a reservoir of water, as in the Lyab-I Hauz, and “Bolo Hauz” means “near the pond”), seems to have buried the unfortunate history of this mosque and of this part of Bukhara under the early Soviet rule.
About the Bolo Hauz Mosque
The Bolo Hauz Mosque was built in 1712. This was where the Emir would head over from the Ark on a red-carpet-laid path on every Friday for his Friday prayers. Its resemblance to the Djome Mosque at the Ark is certainly no accident, as these two structures were indeed contemporaneous with each other.
The Bolo Hauz Mosque was the only historic structure that survived the onslaught of the early Soviet rule in this part of Bukhara. All other historic structures in this area of town were destroyed in the early 20th century. During the Soviet rule, the Bolo Hauz Mosque was a working men’s club.
Architectural Features of the Bolo Hauz Mosque
The most eye-catching aspects of the Bolo Hauz Mosque are the super tall, and seemingly thin pillars that support its enormous and decorated high wooden eaves. Sophie Ibbotson says that those “12m-high pillars, 20 in all, that support the aivan are so slim that they look like super-sized chopsticks” and I agree with her completely. They are “made from elm, poplar and walnut wood.” (Sophie Ibbotson).
Indeed, it is unusual to see Uzbek religious structures featuring an iwan with such elaborate use of wood besides the use of bricks in building its vaults.
The 20 pillars show varying sets of patterns in their carved adornment at the bottom, and also varying stalactites at the top parts that support the eaves.
The central piece of the wooden façade shows a beautiful double arch (like that of the McDonald’s). The carved cornices come with an elaboration of intricate colors and patterns, showing exceptional craftsmanship in both its original construction and the restoration.
There is also a minaret right by the Bolo Hauz Mosque, completing the whole layout for a religious structure in Uzbekistan.
The Chor Minor
The day was getting hot progressively and so we decided to head over to the Chor Minor for our next sightseeing.
About the Chor Minor
The Chor Minor is certainly a must-see site as it is the only historic structure in Uzbekistan that features four towers. Note however that these four towers are not the same as minarets, although the name Chor Minor means “four minarets.” They were not intended or used for the muezzin’s call to prayers.
According to Sophie Ibbotson, the Chor Minor may have been inspired by the Char Minar Mosque in Hydrabad in India. The patron of Chor Minor, Turkman merchant Khalif Niyazkul, may have wanted the four towers to represent his four daughters.
In terms of architecture, the four towers come with domes that are in the turquoise color typical of Uzbek historic structures. The Chor Minor was the gatehouse to a madrassa that no longer exists.
There is access to the roof, which will allow interesting views of the four towers.
Finally, the souvenir shop across from the Chor Minor deserved a quick tour around. All sorts of pdds and ends are displayed there and it was cool to look over them.
We headed back to the Old Town for lunch, and ate at the Labi Hovuz by the Lyab-I Hauz pond. Our Lachman was truly wonderful for lunch.
We then taxied to the Sitorai Mokhi Khosa to see some Russian styled architecture at the last Bukhara Emir’s summer palace.
Sources
Sophie Ibbotson, Uzbekistan, Bradt Travel Guide (2020).
Calum Macleod, Uzbekistan: the Golden Road to Samarkand (2014).