In my opinion, the 1881 Heritage is one of the most successfully restored heritage sites in Hong Kong. Formerly the Marine Police Headquarters, the 1881 Heritage stands tall and grand in what used to be the waterfront of Tsim Sha Tsui.

There are two reasons for why the 1881 is one of the most successful as a restored heritage. First of all, the site is fitted with beautiful annexes to the original building, and the construction really is lavish and classy. Secondly, the site offers quite a few historic features that present an interesting and coherent narrative for a part of Hong Kong’s colonial history. Of course, the many wonderful (surely high-class) businesses there have helped support the vitality and ambiance of the site and kept everything there posh and glamorous. During the festive days of the year, the 1881 Heritage is teemed with joviality with wonderful holiday decorations.

The History of 1881 Heritage

At the current site of the 1881 Heritage, only the structures at the highest level are heritage buildings, and those are the the Main Building of the Former Marine Police Headquarters, the Old Kowloon Fire Station, the Fire Station Accommodation Block, the two cannons and the Time Ball Tower. All of these structures are declared monuments.

The Main Building 

The Hong Kong Marine Police occupied the Main Building between the 1880s to 1996, except during the Japanese Occupation. In 1996, the Marine Region moved to its current headquarters in Sai Wan Ho. The whole former venue at the 1881 heritage gave home to the Commander of the Marine Police, as well as the Captain Superintendent of the Police.

The Main Building was built in the neo-Victorian style and it is, to say the very least, stately.  According to the description on site, “no steel or steel reinforcing was used in the original main building. Loose granite blocks serve as the foundation for brick shear walls and timber joists floors and roofs.” The elevated ground floor was one of the features that ensured sufficient air flow to cool the building and the taper the dampness of the climate. Other features are the elevated high ceilings and tall windows.

For a brief history of the Marine Region of the Hong Kong Police Force, visit its website here.

The Two Cannons at the 1881 Heritage

There used to be two cannons mounted on the gun platforms outside of the Main Building. The Japanese took those original guns during the Occupation years. There followed a gun swap with Jardine’s Noonday gun in 1961. The two guns now are replica replacements.

The Time Ball Tower

In 1884, the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) was established. In that same year, the Time Ball Tower was constructed for the purpose of indicating the standard time for the marine community that sailed the then very busy Victoria Harbor.

The Time Ball is of a six-foot diameter and mounted on a pole above the tower. There is a ball-raising mechanism. At 1pm sharp every day (except Sundays and public holidays), the ball would be raised manually and then dropped. This was done so that the vessels at the harbor could synchronize their on-board chronometers at the sight of the drop of the ball. The accuracy of the timing was kept meticulously. The Hong Kong Observatory would send a telegram to indicate the arrival of 1pm.

As Hong Kong was an entrepot even during those times, the accuracy of the time-telling at the busiest harbor played a significant role in larger commerce. Many of the trading vessels determined their relative positions by observing the ball. Even a one-minute delay could cause disasters for the ships.

The Time Ball was in service between 1885 and 1907. The original time ball was moved to Signal Hill in Tsim Sha Tsui. The Time Ball existing in the tower now is a reconstruction.

Some of the Current Business Establishments at the 1881 Heritage

I have been to three of the dining establishments within the Main Building of the Former Marine Police Headquarters, and in all occasions I enjoyed both the food and the ambiance immensely. Needless to say, all of these restaurants position themselves as fine dining venues, and they are not cheap.

Luma is the French fusion restaurant that takes up the prime spot at the Main Building. It being at the very front section of the Main Building, the most pleasant experience there would be to dine at the veranda. For this you usually must tell the restaurant when you make your reservation. I have managed to secure veranda seating on a walk-in for afternoon tea on a weekday.

The food is of fair quality given how much you have to pay for it, but the ambiance really is top notch.

The Queen is located in the back of the Main Building, as its Chinese name “Backyard” suggests. You would pass through the corridor to the back courtyard to reach The Queen.

The Queen serves Cantonese cuisine and I had some really good dim sum there once. The ambiance is very luxurious, as shown in the beautiful porcelain dining ware.

The Cell is a very cosy bar tucked away on the side of the corridor, across from the Luma. Like all restaurants, the Cell has its own unique décor and the vibe there is relaxed, classy and sophisticated. But this certainly was not the case when the building served its proper role during the time of the Marine Police. As it is named, the Cell was formerly the reporting room with three jail cells, intended to keep the pirates and the smugglers.

Normally it is a perfect venue for alcohol drinking but we ordered coffee there in the afternoon.

Sources

Descriptions on site at the 1881 Heritage.

The Website of 1881 Heritage.