Shun Tak Kui and the Time Tunnel of Yuen Long

We are at the tail end of the summer in Hong Kong, but the days are still hot. A short trip into the villages of Yuen Long would be a good idea. As I was doing the research, I came across this lesser-known heritage site called Shun Tak Kui. It is located in Shung Ching San Tsuen of Shap Pat Heung in Yuen Long and a Grade 1 Historic Building. Because the Green Tunnel is in the vicinity, I decided to do one stone two birds on this trip.

The Green Tunnel of Yuen Long

The Green Tunnel of Yuen Long acquired its reputation as the photo-taking spot for the “literary youth” circle mostly due to Cantopop singer Sammi Cheng’s MV. I made my way from Yuen Long town proper to the tunnel. Although very excited at first, I found the tunnel looking nothing like what I had imagined.

Only when I took photographs with my phone did I see how it appeared to be very much Avant Garde. Therefore I say it is really photogenic, but the experience of walking through the short tunnel was nothing out of the ordinary. The green color comes from the metal sheets that line the interior of the tunnel. It felt more like walking through a cargo container than travelling through time, although the locals like to call it the Time Tunnel.

All was good, and I took the Avant Garde photographs as I should.

Shun Tak Kui

I headed over to the direction of the river. Soon I found my way into the Shung Ching San Tsuen Village of Shap Pat Heung.

Shun Tak Kui is a Grade 1 Historic Building. Also known as Leung Uk, Shun Tak Kui was built by the Indonesian Chinese family of the Leung’s, who came from Meizhou of Guangdong, in 1936. The ancestor Gon-shun Leung went to Indonesia and worked first at a shop. He gradually became a very wealthy man. When Shun Tak Kui was built, the Leung’s lived there for a short while. The building also served as the community space for meetings, village school education and other ceremonial events.

Gon-shun Leung bought the land in Shung Tak San Tsuen in 1930. Construction began in 1934 and it completed in 1936, taking a total of two years and HK$20,000 to build this house. Like Kwan-min Pun of Pun Uk, Leung was also Hakka in origin. Both came from the hometown of the Mei County, where many overseas Chinese came from.

Architectural Features of Shun Tak Kui

I was amazed when Shun Tak Kui came into full view. The building was beautiful with elegant Chinese motifs on the sides of the front entrance. The significant area of open space in the courtyard does suggest that it was once a place of village gatherings. There used to be a pond there, but it was filled.

Although there is not a precise symmetry between the three sections of the house (as opposed to Pun Uk), each shows a somewhat different style. The motifs on each of these three sections also express different principles of virtue. Shun Tak, in Chinese, means “being cautious and mindful of your conduct.” The top motif on the southern wing is particularly poetic, meaning the fragrance of sweet osmanthus and magnolia.

There are three distinct areas in the building, the main section consists of a front porch and an entrance bay. Then there are the wings on the side, each with its own porch. There are two columns at the façade with Chinese motifs on the sides of the door entrance. The central structure has two stories. The two wings are single story, intended for use as kitchens. The overall space of the structure accommodates a total of 32 rooms inside.

According to the Historic Buildings Appraisal of the Antiquities Advisory Board, “Western influence is also apparent in the design of the single storey wings at either end of the building which have matching entrance porches with columns supporting bow-shaped pediments at the flat roof parapet level.” The fact that the owners of the building being overseas Chinese is shown through the fusion of Chinese and western elements in the architecture. This feature is apparent also in Fat Tat Tong of Ha Wong Hang Village, whose owner Li was also of Hakka origin.

Again I quote the Antiquities Advisory Board, “The building is of interest for the skilful blending of local traditional and western architectural features and displays characteristics common to both Chinese and Western classical styles/ characters of symmetry, balance, formality, functional simplicity, and special effect.”

As with most of the old, unrestored heritage houses in the New Territory villages, entrance into the house is not safe, nor is it permitted. There is a CCTV camera on site, so please respect the wish of the owners and tour only the front areas of the house.

How to Get There

A walk from Yuen Long town proper to Shung Ching San Tsuen Village, with a stop at the Green Tunnel, will take something like a little more than half an hour. From Yuen Long Town, head southward toward Shap Pat Heung on Tai Tong Road. When you come across Tai Shu Ha Road East, make a left and continue heading south. Once you see Tai Kei Leng Road, make a left as well.

Photo: Make a Left onto Tai Kei Leng Road Here

The Green Tunnel is located on Tai Kei Leng Road, just south of the Tai Kei Leng Tsuen Village. Reach first Tai Kei Leng Road on Google Map. Facing east, you will see these businesses on your left.

The entrance to the Green Tunnel is right across the street at this point. The indication is a large outgrowth of bamboo at the entrance of the tunnel. There is a pedestrian crosswalk there, and you will arrive after crossing Tai Kei Leng Road.

Take all the photographs you want and keep going on the tunnel. Upon exit, you will be coming upon the river on Long Ho Road. When you exit the tunnel, turn right onto Long Ho Road.

You will come to the first intersection with Tai Shu Hang Road West.

Then cross the river on Tai Shu Ha Road West (go left). Keep going for about five minutes or so, and you will see some auto repair shops. Walk through the auto repair shops. That is the way in to Shung Ching San Tsuen Village.

Once you are in the village, keep going.

At the first crossroads, take the path to your right.

Keep on going.

At this intersection, again go straight.

At this intersection, go straight.

And soon enough you will be at this point. You can already see on this picture that Shun Tak Kui is on your left (see the old rooftops on the left of the photograph).

Sources

Antiquities Advisory Board, Historic Buildings Appraisal, Shun Tak Kui.

A View of Tremendous Changes in the New Territories From Shung Ching San Tsuen, Skyline Monthly (Chin).