Ha Pak Nai – Sunset Watching and Heritage

Sunset Watching in Ha Pak Nai

Ha Pak Nai is known for its views of beautiful sunset. Being on the westernmost coast of Hong Kong, the location offers unobstructed views of a sun setting over the ocean, and the view of Route 10 (the Shenzhen Bay Bridge) sitting above Deep Bay afar.

In this entry, I will discuss the sunset there as well as a special heritage site inside the Ha Pak Nai Tsuen Village.

We found the driving to Ha Pak Nai to be more challenging than we were prepared (more below). We therefore stopped somewhere on Nim Wan Road with a platform type of structure where we could watch the sunset safely. People typically go further down the road for a location where they can walk on the muddy shore at low tide. We gave that a pass this time.

At this spot, we could see the oyster harvest. Usually, at sunset hours the tides are low. There is also a pretty good view of the mangroves there.

The Fortified Structure of Ha Pak Nai

The 1911 Revolution

The 1911 Revolution that overturned the Qing Dynasty and finally ended imperial China was an effort of many brave souls. Dr. Sun Yat-sen has garnered support internationally for his cause. In the final phase of the Revolution, Dr. Sun Yat-sen took Hong Kong to be the base to organize societies. They often operated commercial entities to promote the revolution, gain supporters, raise funds and transport weapons.

In fact, from 1895 onwards, at least eight uprisings used Hong Kong as the base of operation. The 1895 Guangzhou Uprising was one. The Tong Meng Hui (Chinese Revolutionary Alliance) was founded in 1905. Hong Kong’s international nature has helped it to serve critical functions in communication, fundraising and organization especially for international supporters of the cause.

The two key persons that had a significant influence in the operation in Hong Kong were Li Ki-tong and Tang Yam-nam. Li Ki-tong was a key source of funding for the Revolution, and he met Dr. Sun Yat-sen in Hong Kong. Tang Yam-nam met Dr. Sun Yat-sen in Honolulu, and donated all his life’s earnings to the cause as well. Both Li and Tang served in the post-revolution government in Guangdong.

Heritage Site in Ha Pak Nai – The Fortified Structure of the 1911 Revolution

The fortified structure at Ha Pak Nai was built by Tang Yam-nam in 1910 after the failed New Army Uprising in Guangzhou. Along with the Castle Peak Farm in Tuen Mun, this structure supported the 1911 Revolution.

Li Ki-tong built the Castle Peak Farm in 1901. At the time, the revolutionaries stored firearms, conducted shooting practices and helped the escaping revolutionaries that fled across the border. When Tang Yam-nam built this fortified structure in Pak Nai, he has meant it to give shelter to the escaped revolutionaries and to complement the operation of the Castle Peak Farm. If the situation called for an evacuation in the Castle Peak Farm, the revolutionaries could take refuge in Pak Nai via both land and sea routes.

Located in No. 39, Long Chok Tsuen Village, the fortified structure is well-restored. The blue brick building has two stories with a mezzanine floor between the first floor and the roof. The structure has gun holes for defense purposes and they are still visible now. There was another adjoining house, and also a rice mill and a sugar refinery nearby.  Together they served to support the revolutionary cause. However, all of these other structures were long demolished.

There is a very small museum there with display boards introducing the very interesting history of this fortified structure. The visit takes only about half an hour. Since 2011, the structure has become a declared monument with protection by the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance.

How to Get There

For watching sunset

We went by private car, and we found a suitable spot to watch the sunset along Nim Wan Road. We did not visit the areas of the shore where you can walk on muddy paths in low tide.

However, I must warn readers who plan on driving there. Nim Wan Road is the only throughway to get to Ha Pak Nai. It is also an exceptionally narrow road that has just one lane (for both directions). What makes the driving challenging is that there are many, many large vehicles (big trucks and even military vehicles) using this road. I think only experienced drivers should consider driving to Ha Pak Nai. At times even with the pass over shoulders of the road are too narrow for big trucks to pass through.

This road condition also causes severe traffic on this road during the weekends, when tourists flood the area to watch sunset. Therefore do good planning and perhaps avoid the weekend crowds.

One way to fully maximize a trip out to Yuen Long is to have dinner at Lau Fau Shan, which is famous for its seafood. The minibus will pass by Lau Fau Shan on its way back.

For the Fortified Structure in Ha Pak Nai Village

I took green top minibus Route 33 from Tai Fung Street in Yuen Long and got off at the final stop, where the village community center is. After getting off, you will see the sign pointing to the heritage site. Walk just one minute and you will arrive at the fortified structure.

Sources

Historic Descriptions On-site at the Fortified Structure of Ha Pak Nai Village.