Sunset Survivors

I spent a delightful afternoon at the Central Library reading one of the few copies of Sunset Survivors available in Hong Kong’s public libraries.  A good friend recommended this book to me and I enjoyed reading the stories very much.  Here is what I took from the book.

Sunset Survivors – An Introduction

It became quickly evident that these tenacious tradesmen and women – however clandestine against the frantic urban backdrop – were essential ingredients in Hong Kong’s cultural identity.  Their fascinating lives, hard-worn hands and steadfast expressions have been the base on which a modern metropolis has been built. 

But with almost no willing successors, little chance of competing with larger companies and skyrocketing rents, simply surviving this metamorphosis has proven almost impossible.  And so, as these sunset survivors continue to slowly pass away, so too will a unique slice of Hong Kong’s history and character.  This book hopes to capture a glimpse of the hardy few who have battled the odds and continue to run their businesses today.

~ Lindsay Varty, Sunset Survivors, Introduction

In this illustrated book, author Lindsay Varty takes readers to the world of Hong Kong’s forgotten craftsmen and their sunset industries.  Along with artful photographs by Gary Jones, the author engages readers on incredibly interesting, empathetic and pithy dialogues about a once-significant part of Hong Kong’s history.  These traditional skills and businesses will certainly fade, silently, into Hong Kong’s past within our lifetime.

Thirty Wonderful Stories

The book contains the introduction of 30 such tradesmen and their stories.  Each story brings out some interesting aspects of their trade.  Some express regret at not being able to find successors (Chan Lok Choi, at 16); some are happy with their life-long commitment and accept that it will end with them, as the ever-pressing needs for modernity will surely render their trade obsolete (Luk Shu Choi & Luk Keung Choi, at 20).

Look beyond the city’s world famous skyline into the nooks and crannies of the tall buildings and there lies a plethora of ancient crafts and trades largely survived by these older generations.  And although they are slowly passing, these tradesmen and women continue to give this metropolis much of its cultural depth. 

~ Modern City of Ancient Tradition, at 24

The tradesmen do understand that their industries and the tools of trade would rightly belong to the museum when they retire (Wong Shue Yau, at 34).  For most of tradesmen that the author interviewed are, or were, the last few remaining in their industry.

It is often said that a photograph speaks a thousand words, and Sunset Survivors is the perfect illustration.  The written stories are pithy and right-to-the-point.  The readers are also given the space to appreciate precious imageries of Hong Kong’s sunset industries and the people within.  The photographs convey the spirit of a generation past, for many of those photographed are well into their twilight years.  Most of them were witnesses to their industry’s heyday, usually when they first took over the business.  They have since held the baton for most of their golden years.  At the same time, they know full well, and many have accepted, that there will be no one to pass it on.

Surely, there is poignancy in the photographs, especially in the black-and-white ones.  Yet the colors of their crafting materials, the unfamiliar images of their tools of trade, the beautiful mastery, along with large personal portraits, together convey positive, optimistic and upbeat impressions.  These are people who took true joy in their craftsmanship.  They are proud to have partaken in the industry’s flourishing years.  The pride in hard work, honed skills, community engagement and a sense of the historic resonates throughout this book.  They certainly come alive in the photographs.   And finally, they continue to be the woven strands in Hong Kong’s culture.  The themes are as much about the continuation of the Hong Kong spirit as they are about the obsolescence of traditional industries.

Photo: I will share just one photograph from the book.  This is Kan Hong Wing, Qipao Tailor.

Some Interesting Stories

One of the most interesting stories I read was about Cheung Shun King.  He is the third-generation owner of Biu Kee Mahjong.  Mahjong is often called the “national art of China.”  His shop would be the perfect testament to this favorite pastime for most Chinese people.  There were very good days when all the tiles were handmade crafts.  Not surprisingly, with the rise of industrial production, handmade mahjong tiles became a thing of the past.  So does the art of engraving and painting them.

By now, Mr. Cheung mostly sells machine-made mahjong tiles for HK$600 a set.  When he does decide to handcraft the tiles, it takes months and they go for HK$4,000 a set.  Customers also go to his shop to replace missing or damaged individual tiles.

The story is interesting because “ironically, between work and his personal life, he has never learned the game.” (Cheung Shun King, at 44).  While his family love playing mahjong, “I would rather rest than learn to play mahjong… I feel bored just looking at the mahjong tiles as I look at them all day every day at work.” (Id.) He does see the end of handcrafted mahjong as a business and a craft.  “I foresee that all mahjong shops in Hong Kong will disappear in 10 years.” (Id.)

Another humorous point was in Kan Hon Wing’s story.  Mr. Kan is a tailor specializing in the making of qipao.  Needless to say, the qipao has retired long ago as the common dress for women.  Demand for the qipao today is only for special occasions like weddings.  The wonderful tailor recognizes the value of honest assessment for his customers. “I will give people suggestions if their ‘dream qipao’ is too ugly.”

The Sunset Survivors have a website, where you can sign up to walk with the author to visit these sunset industry locations in Hong Kong for a fee.

Finally, there is a story about the China Café in the book and the restaurant has already closed its doors in 2019.  I have written here as well.

In a few hours I read and enjoyed every word and every photograph in Sunset Survivors.  I think this would be a collectible on the Hong Kong section of someone’s home library.  If only I didn’t have so many unread books on my shelves!