Of Water and Cheese — A Climb Up the Műnster St. Vinzenz

I went almost out of town, and finally turned to Postgasse to see the Rathaus and the church.  I then turned to Műnstergasse.  Finally, clearly in view was the Műnster St Vinzenz, the crown jewel of Bern.

As with usual, I paid a spiritual tribute and enjoyed the organ music.  As I was preparing to leave, I spotted a narrow door that opened up to a never-ending flight of stairs up.  It would lead to the very apex of the cathedral tower.  There was not a split second of doubt – I paid 5 CHF to climb it.

The climb, to say the least, was rigorous.  Yet unlike the popular Pisa in Italy, there were very few tourists trailing behind.  As a result, I could take my time.  About three quarters of the way, however, I started to regret my decision.  My knees clattered, not so much due to the strenuousness as a fear that began to take over me.  I have never known myself to fear height.  However, at that altitude, even the very slim stone openings on the outer wall gave enough sense of the height that I started to feel a panic.  The thought of an even more breathtaking view strengthened my resolve.  I clutched onto the inner rail and marched on.

Overall I took four breaks sitting down, at the same time trying to re-orient myself against the fear.  The climb was a battle of the will.

Once up at the top, however, I gathered myself in the open and crisp air.  I was standing at the tallest church tower of Switzerland.  With secure railing all around me, the fear dissipated.  Then I strike up a conversation with a mid-aged lady and learned that there was more.  The additional flight of steps would take me up the apex of the steeple.  I guesstimated that there were about 50 to 70 more step s to climb.  I might as well do it!

On my way I saw another guy.  He told me, “it was good up there, though the view is not much different!”  Well, as far as I could see, the view was better there.  I savored the aerial view of Bern, far away onto the Swiss Alps.  All of Aare River was below me.  I felt as if I was on the tiptoe of a fall – into love with this beautiful city.

There were 250 steps, not including the final flight to the steeple.  As I came down, I had the feeling that I have conquered fear.

Back, firmly grounded, I went on to Marktgasse looking for food.  There were many options on this street.  It hummed with economic activities with many shops, restaurants and pedestrians.  I did notice the multitudes of apothecaries in the Altstadt, but never found the answer.

I had hoped for a cheap sandwich, which was available at the COOP and its restaurants.  Yet there was nowhere on this street I could sit peacefully for takeouts.  Finally, on a side street with a strip of restaurants, I found an immigrant-run creperie.  I picked the only thing I could read – a mozzarella tomato with salad sandwich, and a cup of coffee.  All for 10 CHF.