Of Water and Cheese – Morning Walk at the Vieille Ville
I arrived at the Chauderon station this morning. Not far ahead stood the eye-catching Rolex building on the block. I remembered it from yesterday and knew that there would be a bit of walk to the Vieille Ville, the Old City of Lausanne. Soon I came upon the beautiful Place St-Francois.
The Place St-Francois was built in the 13th and 14th century by the Franciscans. The monastery dissolved, however, during the Reformation. Gone were also the church’s original decor. The tour book said that the interior was bland. I found it to somewhat resonate with the Oud Kirk in Amsterdam. Yet it was still slightly more ornate than the minimalist Oud Kirk.
I then blindly made my way up because my destination was Le Musee Historique. The prominent Lausanne Cathedral was my North Star. I did end up at the Cathedral again, and soon found the allegory figure of justice at the fountain.
The signing of the official documents ratifying the establishment of the International Olympic Committee took place at the Place de la Palud. I stopped by a souvenir shop and bought some postcards. This was the opportunity to ask the keeper, “ou est le musee historique?” In flowing French and a combination of body language he showed me the way.
It turned out that I never found Le Musee Historique, but soon I saw a building with an assertive grandeur, in the neo-renaissance style. The Palais de Rumine was built during the late 19th to early 20th century. It used to be home to Lausanne’s university. Now its five high stories provide exhibitions in history, geology and anthropology. To my disappointment, however, there was no exhibition open to visitors except for the top floor with models of animals. I took a quick walk up and down the stairs and soon exited, again looking out at Place De Riponne.
The Ave de l’universite was right behind, and I ended up at Chateau St Marie. It served as an administration building for the Bishops of Lausanne, who ruled the City of Lausanne before the Bernese overthrew them during the 16th century. Now it is an administrative building for the Canton of Vaud. There was scaffolding all around as the structures underwent restoration. I did manage to snap a few pictures, however.
I went back to Place de Riponne and found Le Basilique Notre-Dame du Valentin. Despite its plain architecture, which was quite unusual for the Notre Dames of Europe, I felt an incredible sense of respite inside. There is always spiritual comfort at the churches in Europe. For the little time that I spent there, I felt rested and thankful. This was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be learning about Switzerland.
Out at the Place de Riponne I spotted some food trucks. I was just happy that I would not have to spend a fortune on lunch. Having had a hearty hamburger yesterday at the Manor, today I opted for crepes, the ultimate European comfort food. It was yet to open so I seated comfortably under the morning sun in the open seating area.
The chef came out and apologized, “just a few minutes.” “What would you like?” I was glad he spoke perfect English. “La complete.” (I pronounced “complete” in the English way and he drew a blank. Then I tried “com-plette” and he got it right away.) The filling was yummy with an sunny side up, cheese and lots of jambon. But the crepe itself was not quite smooth so I decided not to order a sweet one. With a shot of espresso I only spent 10 CHF. What could be better?
I came upon another minimalist church. What intrigued me both yesterday and today was the large portrait of Martin Luther King Jr on its façade. With research, I later learned that it was the Eglise St-Laurent. Like the other cathedrals in Lausanne, it became Protestant during the Reformation. Randolph de Gousaz designed its façade during the 18th century. It is “one of the few examples of Neo-classical architecture in Lausanne.” As I went inside, the organ was playing. I was all the more thankful for this spiritual restoration.
Again, there was never ending cheese in the supermarket at the COOP. I have a feeling that if I ask a true blood Swiss if it was cheese or chocolate, he would tell me, “hands down cheese!”
When I exited the COOP, the bells at the Eglise St-Laurent Church pealed, signaling the noon hour. I was unmistakably placed in a Christian time and place.