South Korea – A Second Look at Seoul
Yun-hak, the young man that I met on the plane, rather insisted that I saw the Gyeongbokgung Palace. Although that was not what the Lonely Planet recommended, I went because a Korean native told me to.
Once I was there, however, I began to understand why. Gyeongbokgung Palace was the first palace in Seoul. It was constructed in 1395 by Yi Seong-gye, three years after his founding of the Joseon Dynasty. The location was carefully chosen because the surrounding mountains provided symbolic anchorage to the Dynasty. With Gyeongbokgung Palace as the seat of power, the new dynasty moved its capital from Gaeseong to Seoul (known in ancient times as Hanyang.) It was burned down many times throughout its long history. Some of the current structures were bare because they were built anew or restored during the 1990s. Yet the history there would serve as the perfect vantage point from which to view the Joseon Dynasty.
In 1873, King Gojong built Geoncheonggung between the garden hill of Noksan and Hyangwonjeong Pavilion. He lived in the bed chamber of Geoncheonggung with his queen, the Empress Myeongseong. Korea was embroiled in conflicts and animosities with Japan. Japanese expansionist policies (and Russian influence as well) rose with the first Sino-Japanese War and its attendant consequences for East Asia. A fire broke out in Gyeongbokgung Palace in 1876, and King Gojong moved to Changdeokgung Palace. He came back to live in Geoncheonggung in 1885 for ten years.
Perhaps the most fascinating story at the Gyeongbokgung Palace was the assassination of Empress Myeongseong by Japanese assassins in 1895. Empress Myeongseong was a staunch force against Japanese influence during the late 19th century. Her enemies in Korean politics, including her father-in-law, the father of King Gojong, were complicit with the then Japananese Minister to Korea in bringing about her assassination in Geongbokgung Palace.
In the early hours of October 8, 1895, insurgent Korean regiments surrounded the palace and overwhelmed the royal guards. They then allowed Japanese assassins in, who then ravaged the Okho-ru (the reconstrcted building of which is pictured above in this entry), where the Queen was. The murder was brutal and against international law. Koreans and foreigners alike were appalled.[1] The Empress’ assassination came to be known as the Eulmi Incident. It would be fair to say that it ushered in Korea’s modern history, the next chapter of which was modern-time colonialism under Japan’s rule beginning in 1905.
The Gyeongbokgung Palace taught me the part of Korean history that would pave the way for Korea’s struggles in the next century. The stories there gave color to the otherwise bare structures, still under reconstruction when I visited. I absolutely adored the poetic motifs hung on both sides of the mainway, in Hanja (which I read as Chinese).
Outside the Geongcheonggung, I saw the beautiful Hyangwonjeon pavilion and the lake surrounding it, frozen and with children playing and many Koreans hanging out. Finally, having reached the main hall, which has been restored, I could imagine the palace in its former glory. As I exited the Palace through its front entrance, a procession of Korean royal guards dressed to the occasion did a round of Lunar New Year salute.
In the afternoon I did a walking tour in Seoul, and saw on the streets the bustling city life that gave this city its lively vibe. I visited the Bosingak bell tower, which was closed. I then walked along the Cheonggye Stream, and ended at the Lotte Department Store for souvenirs.
Dinner was samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup in a hot pot), a much-needed nurture in the bitter cold. Outside of the restaurant I walked into Myeongdong. Its breathtaking night market scene bore every feature of South Korea that I imagined it to be: prosperous, boisterous, glamorous and a big party for all. I bought Korean hip hop music as souvenir for myself.
I got back to the hostel as quickly as possible, to calm myself before the big excursion. The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) was for the next day.
[1] The Wikipedia has a very good account of the history.
