North Korea: State of Paranoia

North Korea: State of Paranoia

By Paul French   “Even the Albanians described North Korea as an ‘unbelievably closed society.’”[i] Famine, credit default, constant blackouts, economic collapse, failed piecemeal reforms, nuclear weapons, repression – the indicators of a failed state are no longer hidden from the world now, despite North 

The Vegetarian

The Vegetarian

By Han Kang Ah, what a surprise. I thought this would be a lighthearted and fun book about a Korean woman who decided to turn vegetarian in a culture where meat is consumed as much as air is breathed.  As it turned out, not only 

South Korea – Muuido

South Korea – Muuido

On my last full day in South Korea, I booked a 1st class room at a hotel in Incheon, as I was hoping to see the MacArthur Landing.  Once I checked in the hotel, however, I realized that I would be going backward on my 

South Korea – the DMZ and the Infiltration Tunnels

South Korea – the DMZ and the Infiltration Tunnels

We arrived at the infiltration tunnels as our last stop on the tour.  There was to be no cameras on this part of thetour. We watched a film about the specific history of the infiltration tunnels.  All was good and well, and I enjoyed the 

South Korea – the DMZ, Panmunjom and the Conference Room

South Korea – the DMZ, Panmunjom and the Conference Room

Military subsistence at the DMZ was supported by the Panmunjom Village.  Villagers did not pay any taxes to the Korean government as it did not come under its administration.  They grew food in their fields, and one important crop was ginseng.  The area being off-bounds 

South Korea – the DMZ and the Bridge of No Return

South Korea – the DMZ and the Bridge of No Return

Although in principle the soldiers in the DMZ did not bear arms (therefore they were all black belts in martial arts) there had been armed confrontations at the DMZ.  There was the Axe Incident, where 2 UN commanders were killed when the UN side tried 

South Korea – the DMZ and the Bollinger Hall

South Korea – the DMZ and the Bollinger Hall

“There ain’t no D in the DMZ.”[1] It was a privilege for those from the West to be able to see the DMZ and Panmunjom via a U.S. tour organized by the USO.  If I kept my Hong Kong identity, I could not have gone.  

South Korea – A Second Look at Seoul

South Korea – A Second Look at Seoul

Yun-hak, the young man that I met on the plane, rather insisted that I saw the Gyeongbokgung Palace.  Although that was not what the Lonely Planet recommended, I went because a Korean native told me to. Once I was there, however, I began to understand 

South Korea – Gugak at the Lunar New Year

South Korea – Gugak at the Lunar New Year

On the first day of the Lunar New Year I spent much of the day celebrating the occasion with many other South Koreans at the Namsangol Hanok Village.  I heard the word “gugak” spoken, and eventually figured that it was referring to the traditional dance 

South Korea – Suwon

South Korea – Suwon

Once outside of Seoul, the non-Korean-speaking tourists would be left to their own devices as to how they communicate with the Koreans and find their way around.  That was Suwon to me. In Hanja, Suwon means “the origin of water.”  Suwon is the provincial capital