Vignettes of the World
One cannot understand the human face of the Outback without a fair appreciation of the state of affairs concerning the aborigines in Australia. In this last entry on the Outback, I attempt to provide a brief overview of the historical issues that have direct bearings …
I always think that the ocean bears enormous powers of healing. I would be coming to the Khem Beach many times during this trip. In my first evening in Phu Quoc, I took a walk and arrived at Khem Beach a little before dusk hour. …
The Coconut Tree Prison is the most unhappy place in Phu Quoc, and that is an understatement. It stands testament to the ubiquity of political division that haunted the nation during much of the 20th century. In the Coconut Tree Prison, this political division manifested itself in “innovative” tortures against the ideological enemies of the same blood.
Both sides of the ideological divide were guilty of crimes against humanity on a very significant scale during the Vietnam War. At the Coconut Tree Prison, the perpetrators were the Southern Vietnamese that sided with the Americans during the Vietnam War. North Vietnam eventually won, and to this day Vietnam remains the only and the last communist bastion in Southeast Asia.
The history of the Coconut Tree Prison is straightforward. The French kept a prison camp in Phu Quoc as a detention center of anti-colonialists, and the administrators of the prison have been the successive authorities that inherited that side of the conflict — first the French, then the South Vietnamese as they sided with the Americans.
The name “Coconut Tree” (Trai Cay Dua in Vietnamese) is more suitable for a small and cute inn. This prison is so named because it is what its name says — for this was where the prisoners had to grow coconut trees. In 1949, the French took over the facilities in Phu Quoc that the Chinese nationalists left behind (the Chinese nationalists eventually fled to Taiwan and settled there as the Republic of China permanently). The French set up camps here to detain the nationalist fighters of Vietnam (mostly communists) that were captured all over Vietnam’s mainland. At its peak, the number of prisoners kept here totaled 14,000. The camp took up an area of about 40 hectares and consisted of the four sections named A, B, C, and D.
Came the time of the war between the two Vietnams, the South Vietnamese government rebuilt and expanded the site during the 1960s. The camp then had 12 zones, each with 4 sections. Each section could host as many as 950 prisoners. By 1972, the number of prisoners held there reached 40,000 at one point. Both prisoners of war and political prisoners were held here. The site was heavily guarded by American battalions at one time. The estimate is that 4,000 died here during the 5 years between 1967 and 1973. Mass graves were found on site.
The Coconut Tree Prison is infamous in all of Vietnam. For a very long time, even after the Vietnam War ended, the prison was likely what Phu Quoc was best known for. The Communist Government of Vietnam closed the prison in 1975 when the Vietnam War ended.
From the Khem Beach Resort I walked about 40 minutes to arrive at the Coconut Tree Prison.
The part of history that is in focus at the museum is the campaign to force prisoners to the New Activity Area, which took place between 1969 and 1972. The campaign began with mass arrests, and then the systematic torture of the prisoners at the camp.
The torture there was systematic, both in terms of the schedules and manners of the torture. There was a set time to beat prisoners at the camp. It is also said that 45 types of torture, consisting of both ancient and modern varieties (some are pretty “innovative,” see below) were raged against the prisoners. One purpose of the torture was to collect intelligence about the ongoing war, such as the organization, leadership, guidelines and the escapes of the revolutionaries. But I suspect that there were elements of hatred and spite as well.
The Coconut Tree Prison is an open-air museum now, but the spirits of those that were tortured to death here are felt. They plead their case through the apparent inhumanity of war, and it is amply shown. The structures are bare, consisting of shacks with ceilings and walls of corrugated iron. Some sections are separated by thickets of barbed wire.
The environment itself bears telltale signs — it is more than an eerie vibe. A mere look at the structures shows the conditions that the prisoners had to endure. The shacks had to be incredibly hot in Vietnam’s tropical summers and unbearably cold amidst the winter breezes of the sea.
Besides the harsh conditions of the environment, the inmates had very little food, and when they did eat, the food was terrible. They had stale rice and spoiled fish, and perhaps a pinch of salt for taste, if they were lucky.
As discussed below, the captions are written in line with classic communist propaganda, but one must also be serious about the claims made therein. It takes more brain work to sift the facts out of such representations, but a lot of those claims are factual and true.
The first exhibition of torture are the tiger cages. The administrator of the museum placed life-sized mannequins in the cage to show how it was done.
The tiger cages were barbed wire cages that were just big enough for the number of people to be held inside. There were one-person cages and there were 3-5 people cages. Some prisoners were made to stand all day inside the cage. Some were made to lie down all day. The prisoners wore nothing but shorts inside the cage, and they did not have bathroom breaks.
It is not hard to imagine that prolonged captivity inside these cages would result in the prisoners being skinned. On hot and cold days they were similarly exposed to the forces of nature, including insects and mosquitoes. It is said that the prison administrators would flush them with cold water during the winter, and bittern during the heat of the summers.
The prisoners were kept in these cages for days on end, and some died from the combination of exposure and skin wounds. This part of the exhibition provokes quite a bit of a shock to visitors, as it is the first section that one comes across when you enter the museum.
Besides the appalling tiger cages, there were also the Catso tiger cage, which is much like cargo containers but very small. The prisoners were also kept inside these cages for days without being let out for air. The air inside these cages was limited, and needless to say, part of the torture depended on the extremity of weather conditions in this part of Vietnam. It could be scorching hot during the daytime and frigid cold in nighttime. The Catso tiger cage was meant to be a disciplinary measure.
There were other “classic” types of torture at the prison, such as nail-driving, electric shock, tooth extraction, and submersion in boiling water.
Those incarcerated at the Coconut Tree Prison survived in the typical way that the Vietnamese people survived wars. Having traveled to various different historical places in Vietnam, I have observed the somewhat odd, distinctively Vietnamese preoccupation with using tunnels as a primary means to survive and fight wars. There are the famous Tunnels of Cu Chi in Saigon, and there are the Vinh Moc Tunnels in Quang Tri. In the Coconut Tree Prison, the captives there also dug tunnels to flee.
The tunnel digging at the Coconut Tree Prison turned out to be the most effective means for prison breaks. The resistance inside the prison was systematic as well. It is said that the Communist Party assigned tunnel digging teams inside the prison. The prisoners made tools with their mess kit, spoons, barbed wire, iron stake and plastic crane.
They began with a spot under the wooden sitting floorboard, then made their way through the ground. The opening was carefully disguised. The most successful escape plan was a tunnel dug in subregion A4, with 113 meters in length, 1.5 meters into the ground, 0.65 in diameter. It enabled the escape of 41 prisoners. This was the most successful prison break that took place in 1971.
Photo: Room 13 in subregion B2 was where the first tunnel was dug. 21 prisoners escaped via this tunnel.
In the museum now, one original tunnel of escape was preserved and expanded for visitors to experience the prison break themselves. It was quite cool for me to walk through this tunnel because my phone battery died and the tunnel was pitch dark for the most of it. I had to feel my way through the tunnel.
Continue reading Prosperous Phu Quoc —The Horrors of the Coconut Tree Prison
I stepped out of the airplane and could smell the ocean already. It is properly “winter” time even for this part of the world. The humidity greeted me all the same, in a somewhat tamed tropical heat. I hoped for some really sunny days on …
Phu Quoc, meaning “prosperous land” in Vietnamese, is an island that lies south of Cambodia and west of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand. Known as the “Pearl Island,” this largest island of Vietnam is blessed with pristine waters and long stretches of beautiful white …
The Old Wan Chai Post Office is the oldest surviving post office in Hong Kong. Built circa 1913, the Old Wan Chai Post Office served its original purpose since 1915 for 77 years, until 1992.
Thereafter, it served as the resource center for the Environmental Protection Department. kNOw Carbon House took over in 2024 after revitalization and renovation of the structure. The Old Wan Chai Post Office received the Beam Plus Green Building Award (silver) for it.
I have to say, the revitalization of the heritage building is well done. The interior is fitted in a hardwood theme, and it felt classy and comfortable inside.
Since its revitalization, the Old Wan Chai Post Office has been home to kNOw Carbon House, an NGO that engages in creative advocacy on environmental issues, particularly in waste reduction and zero carbon objectives. To be able to visit this heritage, the only way is to sign up for a 1.5-hour free tour with the kNOw Carbon House. Otherwise, the Old Wan Chai Post Office is not open to the public.
The first part of the tour is conducted at the foyer area. The area is fitted with a consistent eco-friendly theme, featuring the mascot of Hong Kong’s environmental protection initiative, Big Waster. The staff conducted interactive dialogues with the participants about Hong Kong’s efforts in meeting carbon neutrality. I liked the presentation. The staff placed Big Waster front and center in the interactive session, and I could sense that the kids enjoyed the talk very much.
Photo: At the foyer, Big Waster is prominently featured as the mascot for envrionmental protection in Hong Kong.
If you ask me whether it is worth it to do kiddy environmentalism for 1.5 hours just so that I could see the heritage, I would say it is. I signed up on a public holiday, and so there were some families in the group. The session was fun.
Surely, the tour was not heritage-focused, but the staff knew my objective of the visit, so they did introduce the heritage aspects too. I am not sure if they would skip the environmentalism if there is just one adult signing up to see the heritage.
At the very end of the tour, we sat at what used to be the staff area of the former post office and each chose an eco-craft to make. We took home the craft and some really cute memorabilia. Due to the small interior space, it felt intimate when the group gathered for the tour.
Finally, we took a group picture at the garden area, which is cozy and beautifully restored as well.
The Old Wan Chai Post Office building is L-shaped and comes with pitched roof covered with Chinese tiles. The façade of the building shows ornamental cills around the two arched windows.
There are three Dutch gable walls that also contribute to the character of the building.
There are three pieces of relics that have been expressly preserved at the Old Wan Chai Post Office. The first is the row of mailboxes that line the wall of the former post office area. The mailboxes are in a classic red color and it is a center piece within the heritage building.
Then there is the former service counter. It is made of wood and stands still in an evergreen sturiness. Perhaps no explanation is necessry for it.
Finally, the staff told me that there was a “rescue” operation for this 1990s postage stamp vendor machine. It is on display as a post office relic here. Indeed, this is the older generation stamp vending machine that I remember from my younger days. The stamp vending machines now simply do a printout of the postage fee, instead of dispensing the actual stamps.
The staff of kNOw Carbon told me that the general maintenance of the space is done by the NGO, but if it concerns the structure of the heritage, then the effort lies with the Hong Kong Government.
Photo below: The pitched roof is preserved.
The Old Wan Chai Post Office is a declared monument.
The address of the Old Wan Chai Post Office is 221 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong.
To book a tour, please visit here.
Tour at the Old Wan Chai Post Office held by kNOw Carbon House.
Descriptions on site at the Old Wan Chai Post Office.
The Wikipedia on the Old Wan Chai Post Office.
The Hong Kong Monetary Authority Information Centre Exhibition really is a lesser-known thing in Hong Kong. It has been there since 2003 and I had never known about it. I went for a look a couple days ago and enjoyed myself thoroughly. The Hong Kong …
Australia’s aboriginal art features distinctive and unique elements that are full of unspoken meanings. They convey the contemporary reinterpretations of the native worldview. I visited an art gallery, Yubu Napa, in Alice Springs. This gallery features all kinds of aboriginal themed handicrafts, besides the display …
There are half-day tours that take you around the historical, cultural and natural sites in Alice Springs. I opted to keep things simple after three days of intense tours in the Outback. In the morning of my day of departure, I walked from my hotel to Anzac Hill, where you can see the city in a 360 panoramic view.
In the Outback, any “Australian” construction would entail some explaining of its former significance to the aborigines. The original aboriginal life that was supplanted by European settlement is a subtext in Alice Springs, but it is acknowledged in an even-handed manner. The area now known as Anzac Hill was Untyeye-artwilye to the Arrernte aborigines. The two words together means “corkwood story,” and so as the Dreamtime goes.
The Dreamtime has to do with a woman ancestor who lived on the hill without the company of men. The most signficant Dreamtime at East Mac, concerning the Three Caterpillars, finds its relevance here as well, as in a rock in the Todd River into which an Ancestor morphed.
ANZAC is a term that comes up very often in Australian life. It stands for “Australian and New Zealand Army Corps.” Being true to its name, the appearance of Anzac has to do with Australia’s warrior past (or peacekeeping missions, depending on your perspective). In fact, the Anzac day is a national day of commemoration for the Gallipoli landing by the Australian troops during World War I. The commemoration has been 110 years in the running.
At Anzac Hill, the history of Australia’s involvement in WWI is amply shown in the open-air museum. In its beginning in 1934, the Anzac Memorial commemorated those who served in WWI. It has evolved to serve as a site of remembrance for all those who served in the wars in which Australia involved itself.
The Anzac Memorial is simply a memorial structure surrounded by flags of significance. But the spirit flies high under the generous sunshine of a day in the depth of the autumn. I took a solemn moment to salute to the sacrifices that Australians have made to world peace. Their contribution to world peace, not least to ending the Pacific War, is not nearly acknowledged enough in global politics.
During World War II, Alice Springs was a major military camp that served as the arsenal and staging point for supplies to Darwin, which was Australia’s warfront in the Pacific War. In 1940, an advanced party of military personnel arrived to prepare a camp for the Darwin Overland Maintenance Force (DOMF) in Alice Springs. The city became a key stopover for the supply fleets to Darwin, and later the administrative center and the de facto capital for the state in 1942. The warfront at Darwin consisted of both the defence of the homeland and the fighting against the enemy in occupied territories.
I took another solemn moment to salute to Australia for being the first country that I could call home as I lived here for a year after leaving Hong Kong. I was educated here, perhaps not long enough, but my Australian experience opened my eyes to a way of life that was hitherto incomprehensible in my narrow-minded existence in Hong Kong.
Here I want to emphasize my approach to world traveling that is perhaps evident to the readers of my blog. I take keen interest in world history, especially 20th century history and WWII. In my travels, I make special effort to learn about the differing worldviews that emerged from this history, and try to make sense of the learned experience that still affects people’s perspectives today.
At Anzac Hill, the efforts and sacrfices made by the Australians and New Zealanders in the wars of the 20th century are in sharp focus.
The open-air museum is very thorough with war history and it features all the wars with detailed explanations and an exclusively Australian perspective. Perhaps I can discuss an event in WWI that I learned there.
Australia’s wartime loyalties have always lied with the traditional allies of the western world, chiefly with Britain. In Anzac Hill, the Australians’ WWI efforts were memorialized in the Fromelles Battle. It was deemed the worst 24 hours of Australia’s entire history, whereby more than 5,500 Australian soldiers died in one battle. This number exceeds the total war casualties of Australian troops in the Boer War, Korean War and the Vietnam War together.
Fromelles was part of the Western Front in the war against Germany during WWI. It was due to British command that the allied troops would launch an assault against Germany from French Fromelles on July 19, 1916. It was meant to be a diversion to stop the Germans from reinforcing their units on another part of the Somme front, where the Allies had launched an attack on July 1.
The troops had just arrived at the Western Front, and Brigadier General Elliot did not even have a map to work with. They were ill-supplied, poorly trained and up against inherently disadvantageous terrain and visibility. Going in, Brigadier General Elliot knew it was a situation that had no tactical justification. He urged the higher chain of command to reconsider the decision for an offensive, it was to no avail, the full-scale attack was only delayed.
The Germans occupied a higher vantage point from their bastion, with machine guns piling and aiming at the advancing battalions. The troops, most of them were Australians, were wiped out as they stammered up the hill. In the end, the allies secured no German positions. But the diversion objective was somewhat met — at the expense of 5,500 Australian lives.
The Fromelles Battle was the first major battle fought by the Australians in the Western Front. It leaves a searing memory in Australia.
In my long conversations with Kirsty of Red Earth Roaming during the East Mac tour, we touched upon the ongoing conflicts that are troubling the world. “Would you say that you are in a relatively safe and peaceful place being in this part of Australia, away from the conflicts of the world?” I asked, in ignorance, assuming erroneously that the joyful desolation of the Outback has no relevance in the map of world conflicts. She pinned the Northern Territory on the war map for me right away, “no, not so. You know that the Americans run their satellite surveillance operations? The eavesdrop base for the Southern Hemisphere is right here.”
In shock, I learned about the Pine Gap collaboration between the U.S. and Australian governments, what has been 30 years in the running already. So, there were the beautiful Simpsons Gap in West Mac and Emily Gap in East Mac, and Pine Gap is a military setup? There is perhaps no part of the world that is free of war implications. I sensed a certain unease in Kirsty’s voice, but what are we gonna do about these things?
Descriptions on site at Anzac Hill, Alice Springs.
What is Anzac Day Mean and How did it Begin? Kids News, April 23, 2026.
Alice Springs in WWII, Northern Territory.
Battle of Fromelles on 19 to 20 July 1916, Anzac Portal.
In the beginning, Alice Springs (Mparntwe in Eastern Arrernte) was home to the Arrernte aborigines for 20,000 years, long before the arrival of the European settlers during the 1860s. The Arrernte aborigines hunted and gathered food in this area. The Lhere Mparntwe (Todd River) determined …