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Prosperous Phu Quoc —  I am American, and You?

Prosperous Phu Quoc — I am American, and You?

At the Skyline Hotel, there are a few staff that take turns doing different shifts in the day. The ladies bring their child with them to work sometimes. And I try to talk to the children, in whatever simple Vietnamese that I am able to 

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Local Phu Quoc in An Thoi

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Local Phu Quoc in An Thoi

Phu Quoc is a beautiful island with countless beaches. Its tourism revolves around the beach towns that it builds to attract foreign tourists. Of course, for the sake of a holiday I could just stay in the “nice” parts of Phu Quoc and be wilfully 

Prosperous Phu Quoc — The Food of Phu Quoc

Prosperous Phu Quoc — The Food of Phu Quoc

One reason why I love traveling to Vietnam is that I love Vietnamese food. Every region of Vietnam has its own uniqueness being part of the full repertoire of Vietnamese delicacy. In Phu Quoc, seafood is the star of the show and I had one proper seafood meal there, and not at the night market.

Besides the other standard items, such as ice coffee with milk, banh mi, and pork chop with broken rice, I tried something rather new in Vietnam: Italian. The pizza that I had at Phu Quoc was wonderful. See below.

This following is not a ranking.

Quan Thanh Nga

Restaurant Address Comment Recommendation
Quan Thanh Nga (Thanh Nga Seafood Beach Restaurant) 22RM+CJ2, Bãi khem, Phú Quốc, An Giang, Vietnam

Very local seafood right at the far end of the Khem Beach. The suggestion is to arrive by car at the proper entrance by roadway, instead of heading out via the beach.

I ordered clams and a grilled fish dish. The wok-fried morning glory was good too.

In this meal, the soul is the Vietnamese sauces that are served along with the dish, as well as those that are freely available to diners at the table. There were quite a few pieces of steamed clams, so I dipped them amply in the sauces and it was heavenly.

Yes.

 

 

Stella’s

Restaurant Address Comment Recommendation

Stella’s

314 Đ. Nguyễn Văn Cừ, Khu 3, Phú Quốc, An Giang 92516, Vietnam Pizza done right in Phu Quoc, woodfired to perfection and served piping hot the Italian way to the table. Wonderful dough base and generous toppings. They have my favorite flavor, which is parma ham with burrata. Very relaxed ambience for a weekday lunch.

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Highly recommend.

 

Mì Quảng siêu ngon

Restaurant Address Comment Recommendation
Mì Quảng siêu ngon (Co Ba Mi Quang) 157 Đ. Hồ Thị Nghiêm, Khu 2, Phú Quốc, An Giang, Vietnam The very hospitable lady served me the last breakfast I had in Phu Quoc with the specialty of central Vietnam, Mi Quang. She topped it up with other favorite appetizers in Vietnamese cuisine. I was stuffed before rushing to the airport. Must-try in Phu Quoc.

 

 

Cơm tấm sườn

Restaurant Address Comment Recommendation
Cơm tấm sườn , ba rọi (Com Tam Trang) 407 Đ. Nguyễn Văn Cừ, Phú Quốc, An Giang, Vietnam Amazing local food at local pricing. A plate of pork chop with broken rice and soup served on the side. The environment is not ideal because it is right by a major motorway, but the food and the hospitality was the perfect start of my experience in Phu Quoc. Highly recommend.

 

 

The Juliet

Restaurant Address Comment Recommendation
The Juliet 71 Amalfi, Sunset Town, Phú Quốc, An Giang 92513, Vietnam A very cute coffee shop in the Sunset Town, with a teddy bear theme. I orderd Vietnamese ice coffee with milk, “ka phe sua da,” for a bit higher of a price than what you get at the local coffee shops. You do pay a premium for the ambience here. The coffee shop presents a carefully designed, somewhat dreamy theme that is touristy. But sure, why not? Yes.

 

 

 

 

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Let’s Learn Vietnamese!

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Let’s Learn Vietnamese!

I was waiting for the driver to pick me up at the Dinh Cau Temple. In the open area outside the Dinh Cau Temple, I saw some snack vendors and I was curious. Besides that they were apparently sweet snacks, I had no idea what 

Prosperous Phu Quoc — The Dinh Cau Temple

Prosperous Phu Quoc — The Dinh Cau Temple

It is no surprise that the Goddess of the Sea is the long-revered deity for the people of Phu Quoc. That is certainly the commonest worship in the coastal regions of southern China as well. I wanted to visit heritage and religious sites in the 

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Rach Vem Fishing Village and the Starfish Beach

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Rach Vem Fishing Village and the Starfish Beach

There is never enough ocean time for me and I was very excited about the visit at the Starfish Beach. I was done at the Pepper Farm and Rach Vem was next. At around noon hour, my driver took me to the Rach Vem Fishing Village for the boat ride. I learned that the fishermen were gathering for their noontime meditation before riding out to the sea. This is their daily practice to pray for safety.

The Rach Vem Fishing Village

I was slightly disappointed that the visit to the fishing village did not come with the opportunity to see how the fishermen caught fish. I was hoping for a fishermen’s boat tour, to observe how they did their proper work.

Instead, I found myself in the midst of rows and rows of marine fish culture facilities.

As I waited for the fishermen to finish their meditation, I walked around the fishing village a little. It was quite a scene at the fishing ponds. They were fish that I knew, as in the common kind of high-end fish that we would have for a typical Hong Kong seafood meal. Except that the fish there at Rach Vem were a whole lot bigger – fish of that size would go for astronomical prices in a Hong Kong seafood market, if they are even available at all.

Otherwise, I’d say that the fishing village was photogenic. From the shore, rows and rows of narrow wooden footbridge extends out to the open sea. The fishmen’s abodes are built upon the still-shallow waters, but where it was deep enough to designate pools for fish culture. The humble lives of the fishermen are apparent, but perhaps the fact that they run the sea routes shuttling tourists to the Starfish Beach indicates their business acumen. There is no question that the tourist economy is on everybody’s mind in Phu Quoc.

One tip for foreign tourists is that they should consider the local options when they plan for the Starfish Beach. Inquire at your hotel for local tours. I saw some really swanky yachts docking at the starfish beach, and I figured that the transportation options are either very expensive (yachts) or very cheap (local fish boats) and they are far and few in between. The boat ride took just about 15 minutes, so there was no need to hire a luxurious yacht to take you there.

 

As its name suggests, the Starfish Beach is full of picture-perfect, giddy-looking starfish. Somehow, they hover at the shallow waters of the beach and you can freely touch them and feel them.

The Starfish Beach

Having visited three beach locations by now, I would say each beach presents some unique qualities and the vibes are different at every one of them in Phu Quoc. The Khem Beach was a proper, standard beach, where a lot of people swam, with good facilities for one to stay there a whole day sipping your margaritas at the beachside bar.

At the Fingernail Island during the island hopping tour, the facilities are also there, and you can swim at the rather small beach and enjoy the softest white sand.

At the Starfish Beach, the vibe is “out of this world.” Surely, there are also shaded beach chairs there and vendors provide cold drinks (alcoholic or not). But the scenery there is so pristine that you feel like you have risen up a level in heavens.

The sky was in a light aquamarine blue, in an endless, cloudless stretch of crystalline expanse. There was copious sunshine, but it felt gentle like the morning rays. Its waters was so calm that you’d think you are at a large outdoor swimming pool. The water did not appear to be the same as the emerald waters of the islets in the southern coast. It was very clear, and looked a few shades lighter. The waves washed over me in small, light strokes against my back. I floated on my back for a very long time.

As to the star of the show, the starfish, it was the first time that I had a close encounter with this creature. I was quite surprised that every one of them that I touched had a very hard “shell.” I could not figure out if they were living or dead starfish? But I was sure that some of them moved while I was there.

In terms of touristy setup, there was a photogenic swing there, and I have to say it was well done. Be sure that you will have to wait for a long time because men and women love that spot. Many of them take both photos and videos there.

I passed by the starfish beach to go further out, to a section of the beach that does not have starfish but much more secluded with almost no one there. I swam there freely until a group of local folks gathered around the rocky area to have a family picnic. They were simply too loud.

When I was dropped off from the fishing boat, there was no explicit instructions on what time I was supposed to leave. By the time I felt like I had enough of the beach, the boat operator has left with the last tourists that they took.

I simply went around showing my bracelet to everybody and someone took me, just me, back to the Rach Vem fishing village. I was very thankful for that special arrangement.

What a wonderful day at the beach. I hired a driver for a full day to take me there. It cost 1,300,000₫.

Prosperous Phu Quoc — A Family of Zest at the Hai Duong Pepper Farm

Prosperous Phu Quoc — A Family of Zest at the Hai Duong Pepper Farm

Being an island, Phu Quoc’s economy was heavily dependent on fishing before the people realized that the pristine waters by the creamy beaches bore enormous potential for tourism. Besides fishing, Phu Quoc was known for agriculture and pearl culture as well. I managed to visit 

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Island Hopping in the Southern Waters of Phu Quoc

Prosperous Phu Quoc — Island Hopping in the Southern Waters of Phu Quoc

One of the most looked-forward to tour in this trip was Island Hopping in the southern waters of Phu Quoc. From the scenery to the activities to the food, this one-day shuttling between the open sea and beautiful islets served every purpose for which I 

To the Outback and Back — The State of Affairs of the Aborigines in Australia

To the Outback and Back — The State of Affairs of the Aborigines in Australia

One cannot understand the human face of the Outback without a fair appreciation of the state of affairs concerning the aborigines in Australia. In this last entry on the Outback, I attempt to provide a brief overview of the historical issues that have direct bearings on the welfare of the aborigines in Australia. I am not Australian and I do not represent or advocate for any party on this issue. This is my own learning on an issue of significance as it matters to Australia today.

A brief research on articles online reveals two underlying currents of developments concerning aboriginal rights in Australia historically. The first is the contention over the natives’ rights to the land that they had inhabited for tens of thousands of years. The second is the policy of removal of aboriginal children (at the earlier times, specifically children of mixed blood) from their families with the stated aim of societal integration or child protection. These are the issues that continue to resonate in Australia.

The Stolen Generations

The term “Stolen Generations” refers to the innumerable aboriginal children that were forcibly removed from their native families and communities pursuant to the government policy of removal. This policy of removal is purportedly done for the sake of assimilation of aboriginal children into the society, clothed in the name of “child protection.”

The forced removal of aboriginal children was a practice in a few of the former commonwealth countries that have had to confront the historical tensions between colonist settlements and the rights of indigenous peoples. This includes the United States, Canada and Australia.

The aborigines were very much tied to the land and they formed intimate bonds with the land. Before the child even learned to walk, he could recognise the footprints of his whole family. Throughout his life, he would be learning cues from nature for all kinds of survival skills. The aboriginal children were born in the sand. The baby was washed in the sand and it would forge a lifelong relationship with the land.

The aborigines’s lives evolved with this land throughout thousands of centuries. The climate was once tropical in the Outback and now it has become a desert. They had the skills to tell where the water is, the hunting etc. They never wore clothes and yet they could survive extreme temperatures. When they were put into settlement communities, they lost their distinct sense of the earth.

The aborigines also have strict rules about with whom someone may have children. When the children were taken away, they did not know what their bloodline was and as a result there was inbreeding.

From around 1905 to 1967, forced removal of aboriginal and Torres Straits Islanders children was a systematic practice. Under various legal arrangements, the authorities would take the (mostly half-caste) aboriginal children away from their mothers, and often at birth. Sometimes the authorities simply told the parents that the child had died. Similarly, for the children taken away, they would grow up being told that their parents had died as well. It is estimated that during the material times, 1 in 10 to 1 in 3 aboriginal children were taken away from their parents.

The Relevant Laws

The legal developments that concerned aboriginal affairs in Australia had not always been so vicious. But a patonizing sentiment was present, in that the aborigines were viewed as subjects to be “protected” and not really as citizens that had recognized and actionable legal rights. Take South Australia as an example. The Letters Patent of the colony includes a clause that guarantees any “Aboriginal Natives” or their descendants to lands they “now actually occupied or enjoyed.” In 1836, the “Protector of Aborigines” was appointed to protect the undisturbed possession of their land. There was also effort to introduce the aborigines to the perceived “more civilized” way of life, such as farming in reserves.

In the Aborigines Act of South Australia (1911, 1923 and 1934), the government invoked the power that resulted in grave consequences to the aborigines. Amongst others, the Chief Protector and Guardianship was appointed to oversee the removal of aboriginal children from their parents. Furthermore, this law introduced the policy of segregation and commandment of resettling aborigines into “communities” and limiting their movements in and out of the reserves.

Perhaps the policy of removal was first expressed in the Aboriginal Protection Act 1869, which was a legislation of Victoria. This legislation allowed the removal of Aboriginal people of mixed descent from the aboriginal reserve forcebly, so that they could assimilate into the Anglo-Australian society. In 1883, the Board for the Protection of Aborigines was established in New South Wales. Although it acted without legislative authority at first, it was given the authority to remove children by the Aborigines Protection Amending Act 1915 (NSW), without having to first establish in court that the children were neglected.

The practice of removal was appalling beyond the forced disablement of an aboriginal child’s instincts about nature. The children would grow up in a home or in foster care. They were to learn life skills in the home, so that when they left, they could be of use to the Anglo-Australians as servants or farm hands. It goes without saying that the aboriginal children suffered neglect, at best, and abuse, at worst, at these homes. The purported objective of the so-called “protection” policy fell flat on its face in practice, let alone the unmistakeably racist views that motivated the policy.

As to the point of racially motivated policy, it is worth mentioning that Australia adopted a White Australia policy during 1901 and 1970, with the passing of the Immigration Restriction Act, which restricted non-white (it really intends to exclude non-British) immigration. That is not Australia today, for sure. And to be fair, such similar policies did also take shape in the United States (then already independent) in around the same time.

The Aborigines’ Right to Land

In a previous entry on Alice Springs, I have discussed the tensions that arose when the Anglo-Australian settlers occupied the frontier lands of the Outback freely, touching off the Coniston Massacre of 1928. This incident was representative of the kinds of issues concerning the occupation and use of land and other resources against the interests of the aborigines.

But post WWII nuclear tests in the Outback have rubbed salt into wounds, and amplified the problems multifold. The British and the Austraslian governments together had done more severe and long-lasting damage to Australia’s native land and its peoples, particularly in the Outback, than the continuous frontier skirmishes. The nuclear tests conducted between 1952 and 1957, and the radioactive waste dumping thereafter, resulted in life-threatening consequences for the aborigines and the natural evironment. The irony is, the Anglo-Australian colonists took the land away from the aborigines, and with final recognition today of the wrong done, Australia “returned” the land to its original owners, only that it was already dangerously contaminated.

Reconciliation and Reparations

Reconciliation

In the case of South Australia, some notable efforts to recognize indigenous rights began around the 1960s. The Aborigines Affairs Act abolished the powers to remove aborigines to the reserves in 1962. The Aborigines and Historic Relics Preservation Act of South Australia provided some protection of sacred and burial sites and other sites of significance beginning in 1965. In 1968, the Aborigines Affairs Amendment Act finally prohibited the forced removal of young people.

Nationally, in 1962, the First Peoples won their rights to vote in state elections after lobbying. The 1967 referendum was perhaps the singlemost significant turning point for aboriginal rights. In this referendum, 90% of Australians agreed that First Australians deserved equal constitutional rights. The result was reflected in the removal of discriminatory wordings from the Australian Constitution, allowing the Federal Government to make laws concerning the aborigines and the Torres Strait Islanders, and counting them in the national census.  With a 90% vote affirming the referendum, the 1967 referendum is still the most successful in Australian history.

In 1982, the Torres Strait Islanders were the first to bring a formal claim for their native rights to land in the courts. The first point of legal significance is the recognition of native rights to land as opposed to legal titles to land. The difference between the two is that common titles to land as a freehold is a government creation of land rights. In contrast, the native rights to land originates from the common law requiring a recognition by law on an inherent right to land.

In Mabo v. Queensland, the Supreme Court of Australia recognized, for the first time, the indigenous people’s native rights to the land. A group of Torres Strait Islanders sued to overturn the legislation called Torres Strait Islands Coastal Islands Act, which denied the rights to any land claimed by the islanders that arose after the claim of sovereignty in 1879, and with no compensation. The applicants, as peoples of the Torres Straits in the Island of Mer (Murray Island), relied on the Commonwealth Racial Discrimination Act as the crux of their argument.

This 1992 judgment is a watershed that would start the ball rolling for the process of recognizing the indigenous rights to land in Australia. The judgment recognizes pre-existing rights and interests in land, that such rights survived colonization and still survives today. Where government actions extinguish such native titles to land, the islanders are entitled to just compensation post 1975. The just compensation requirement is contained in the Racial Discrimination Act of 1975, on the basis that if the indigenous peoples did not get compensated for land taken, and other non-natives did, then it is considered racial discrimination. Following this judgment, a few critical cases with similar claims were won by the aborigines in other parts of the country.

Another development is an inquiry done by the Australian Human Rights Commission, which published a report called Bringing Them Home in 1997. Drawing upon the tesimonials of aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders that were forcibly removed in every jurisdiction in the nation, the report exposes and affirms the inhumanity of the practice.

In 2007, Australia became a signatory to the United Nations Convention on the Right of Indigenous Peoples. This was followed by Prime Minister Kevin Rudd offering a formal apology to Australia’s indigenous peoples, in particular to the Lost Generations, on behalf of the national government in 2008. The first National Sorry Day was held on May 26, 2008, standing as a national acknolwedgement of the injustices done to the First Peoples.

Reparations

Perhaps the recent developments in the aborigines’ native rights to the land can only do so much to rectify the grand scheme of injustice that has been done to them for more than a century. For the lost generations of aboriginal children, all states but Queensland has provided mechanisms of reparations to them.

Fast forward to 2023, the latest referendum that concerns the aborigines called for a vote to recognize the First Peoples in the Australian Constitution by establishing the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Voice, which was envisioned to be a body in the Parliament that represents and advocates for the indigenous peoples of Australia. The referendum was roundly rejected by the Australian voters.

Reconciliation and remedies are a long path to tread, as with all nations similarly situated. But they all began with recognition of the wrong done to the First Peoples. At least that much is clear in Australia.

Sources

AIATSIS, Mabo v Queensland (No 2) [1992] HCA 23; (1992) 175 CLR 1.

Australian Museum, The Stolen Generation.

The Britannica on Stolen Generations.

Caroline Webber, ‘Equal Rights for Aborigines,’ Indigenous Activism and Constitutional Reform, National Archives of Australia, May 20, 2020.

Kristy Wilson, Fallout in the Outback: Nuclear Colonization and the Aboriginal People in Australia, University of Colorado.

ngutungka.com, Aboriginal Timeline SA.

The Wikipedia on Stolen Generations.

Prosperous Phu Quoc — The Khem Beach

Prosperous Phu Quoc — The Khem Beach

I always think that the ocean bears enormous powers of healing. I would be coming to the Khem Beach many times during this trip. In my first evening in Phu Quoc, I took a walk and arrived at Khem Beach a little before dusk hour.