I went to Nishiki Market twice on this trip to Kyoto. The irony is that I went the second time because the first time was not good enough, and I would not rest until I found something fantastic there. Having gone twice and confirmed that it was all around underwhelming, perhaps I would never go again in the future.

Kyoto’s Kitchen — The Nishiki Market

The Nishiki Market comes with a long history of selling the greatest produce of Kyoto. Since 1615, the market has been the official place for trading the delicacies of Kyoto, as such earning the good name as “Kyoto’s kitchen.” It has run for centuries, therefore it is, properly considered, a historical heritage embodying both the tangible goodies for sale there and the intangible cuisine that originates from the abundance and variety of ingredients at the market.

At its very beginning, Nishiki Market was a market for wholesale seafood trade. By now, it has fully developed itself into an all-things-food-related theme. Spanning a total of five blocks of narrow streets, the market now features more than 130 stores.

As I have said in my food entry, the food of this trip was the single most disappointing aspect for me. The experience at Nishiki Market was a main contributor to the ongoing grumble in a dissatisfied gut. From the cheaper end snacks to the higher end kaisen-don (seafood over rice bowl), I found the food to be “somewhat off” in different ways. Where it tasted normal, there were no bright spots to speak of.

I have turned this over in my head many times. The likely explanation is that I was simply too accustomed to the Japanese food that had been adapted to local preferences. I have so much Japanese food outside Japan that I have been spoiled with ways that the food were not authentically made in order to meet my flavor preferences. Another explanation is that I simply ordered the wrong thing at the wrong shop.

Honestly, I have not heard one person telling me that food in Japan is not good. The error must be mine. Hundreds of bloggers offer their take on what foods to get at the Nishiki Market, and I certainly will defer to their expertise.

Touring the Nishiki Market

That said, I must say that the Nishiki Market is exceedingly photogenic for photographers. The Japanese people are known for their expert arrangements in all kinds, from rock gardens to tea ceremony, to flowers and gifts, and to shopkeeping. The ways that these shops are set up are themselves a marvel to behold. I also found the general color theme there to express a classic autumn vibe, in a warm, solid chestnut hue.

Do note that the Nishiki Market is now very much a touristy spot. You won’t be able to avoid the crowds at any day of the week. The peak afternoon hours guarantee a whole lot of shoulder brushing in its premise. It opens from 9am to 5:30pm on weekdays and 9am to 4:30pm on Saturdays. Perhaps a good time to visit would be in the late morning hours, when the goodies are still available and fresh. Some shops close on Wednesdays.

Other Cultural Activities at the Nishiki Market

Shuriken Throwing at the Samurai Museum

In the next entry, I shall discuss the Samurai Museum. It leads visitors through a brief history and hierarchy of Japan’s power structure under the shogunate rule. I think the Samurai Museum is certainly a must-do activity, balancing history learning with quite a bit of fun. It is especially suitable for family with children. Even as an adult, I enjoyed participating in the game of throwing shuriken, a typical distraction device of the ninja’s.

The Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine

Another place to visit is the Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine in the market. The shrine dedicates itself to the worship of Tenjin, traditionally the kami for learning and scholarship.

This shrine is really quite crowded, and there are a number of reasons. First of all, it lies on the eastern entrance to the Nishiki Market. The cascades of lanterns hung in front of the temple naturally draw the attention of tourists.

However, this shrine has a whole lot of significance for the Kyoto people as well. During examination time, students would come here to tend their tribute to the kami of scholarship, praying for good results at school. Rumor has it that the kami here are especially attentive in answering the believers’ prayers and wishes as well.

The man that was deified as the Tenjin kami was Sugawara no Michizane. He was a very accomplished statesman, poet and scholar. Fate had it that he would fall out of favor, and he died banished from the capital, in shame. Thereafter, disasters swept Kyoto and people thought that it was a revenge by Sugawara no Michizane’s angry spirit. He was then deified and enshrined as the Tenji kami. The head shrine for Tenji kami is the Kitano Tenmangu, also in Kyoto.

Some Etiquette to Note

It is a common advice to tourists that the Japanese people frown upon the practice of eating while walking. Please suppress that instinct as you savor the delicacies of Kyoto at the Nishiki Market. I know, it is street food and so you walk as you eat, but it is considered extremely impolite to do so in Japanese culture.

Sources

Japanguide.com on the Nishiki Market.

Discoverkyoto.com on Nishiki Tenmangu.