A Symphony of Colors — A Fish Eye’s View of Osaka at Shinsekai
I had just about a little more than a half day in Osaka and so I decided to visit Shinsekai.
Time stopped at Shinsekai after the reconstruction period post WWII. Meaning “New World,” Shinsekai was once a beacon of hope for Osaka. The area developed following the success of the 1903 National Industrial Expo, which drew 5 million people to this neighborhood. Shinsekai was meant to be where businesses and industry would flourish.
After WWII, the area lies, perhaps not in ruins, but certainly in a constant state of stagnation. Its retro vibes retained their original character of the early-to-mid 20th century to this day, nostalgic in its grand display of the Ganbatte spirit.
The most significant landmark that stands testament to its history is the Tsutenkaku Tower, the construction of which began in 1912. The construction stopped during WWII and began again in 1956. Modeled after the Eiffel Tower of Paris, the Tsutenkaku Tower offers an observation deck, where tourists can see the sprawling cityscape of Osaka. This part of Shinsekai was meant to be a mini version of Paris in the north and Coney Island in New York in the south.
Besides the Tsutenkaku Tower, the stores of Shinsekai feature all kinds of unlikely characters. Needless to say, most of the establishments are restaurants. And then there are the mix and match of arcade types of gaming store with arrow shooting and shuriken throwing.
The day was bright with the generous sunshine of the morning illuminating the caricature signs that populate this area of Osaka. It was not too crowded in the morning, so I strolled leisurely. At every point that I raised my head, I saw enormous signs featuring all sorts of commercial artwork. They seem to typify a certain Japanese sentiment, where enlarged wordings and exaggerated images speak loud and right in your face.
This part of Osaka presents a fish eye’s view of an aged neighborhood. The loud signages and an occasional tattered homeless man create a somewhat bloated vision of Japan that tourists don’t usually see. Shinsekai is on the edge of the largest slum in Osaka. Tourists are advised to be particularly mindful of their safety if they happen upon this area in night time. An estimated 4,000 homeless men congregate in this small area of just a few city blocks. Not far away lies Japan’s largest red light district as well.
Finally, watch out for the Billikens. They are all over in Shinsekai, and if you rub their feet, it will bring you good luck. The Billiken is a creature of American teacher and illustrator Florence Pretz of Kansas City. The Billiken came to Japan around 1910. It is believed that they represent “things as they should be.”
The Kushikatsu — Distinctly Osakan Food
The Kushikatsu is a type of cheap workmen’s food in Osaka. They are basically skewers deep fried in breaded batter, consisting of meats and vegetables. I thought I should have some, since I was at the home of kushikatsu in Shinsekai. Every restaurant in Shinsekai serves this kind of food.
It is said that the Daruma Restaurant is the first restaurant that prepared the Kushikatsu cuisine in 1929. But I randomly walked in Oyajino Kushiya Honten, which is a restaurant that comes with plenty of retro vibes. A classic Volkswagen van sits inside the restaurant and the atmosphere was hip. Besides the kushikatsu, I also had some sushi and an udon. While I would not say that I liked the food very much, it was a special experience.
I took one last look at this microcosm of a make-belief world in Osaka, satisfied that I had traveled through a forgotten time in a bygone community. And there goes a perfect conclusion to my first trip in Japan.
Sources
Insides Osaka on Shinsekai: A Guide to Osaka’s “New World” District.
Japan Travel on Tsutenkaku Tower.
Intrepid Scout on What to Do in Shinsekai Osaka.
Japanguide.com on Shisekai — Nostalgia Evoking District Around Tsutekaku.
