A Walk in Tsiu Keng
I took interest in the Tsiu Keng village area in Sheung Shui because there is a palm woods there that is very photogenic. Upon some research I learned that there are a few interesting things to do and see there. Let me take you on a tour of Tsiu Keng.
Tsiu Keng is located in the Lam Tsuen Country Park area, off of Fan Kam Road between Sheung Shui and Pat Heung. Serious hikers of Hong Kong will know Tsiu Keng to be the exit point for a hike at Kai Kung Leng. To get there, take Bus 77K either from Sheung Shui or Kam Tin and get off at the Tsiu Keng stop.
The History of Tsiu Keng
Tsiu Keng, meaning “Banana Lane,” consists of the three hamlets of Lo Wai, Pang Uk and San Wai. It is believed that the oldest hamlet, Lo Wai, was established in the early years of the Guangxu reign of the Qing dynasty. The residents are of Pang ancestry, one of the five major clans of indigenous inhabitants in the New Territories. Other minor surname groups in the village are the Fans, Lees and Loks. Pang Uk and San Wai were developed later, during the early 20th century.
InnoLife
For those that enjoy an easy-going, rustic dining experience, InnoLife is a perfect choice. Located very close to the entrance of Tsiu Keng, InnoLife practices the principle of “from farm to table.” The restaurant’s menu features veggie dishes that are cooked with ingredients homegrown in its farm.
You will come into a well-designed dining space that fuses nature with a light human handprint. Large glass panels allow ample natural daylight in the dining space. The ambience is agrarian but also cosy, and a few friendly, sweet four-legged friends will wag their tails and greet you. Feel free to bring your own beloved pet as well.
For this afternoon, I ordered a simple dried mandarin peel with ginger tea. The ginger was grown organically in InnoLife’s farm. It was fully infused in the water and the wholesome spiciness of ginger stayed on my palate for a long time after, though mediated by the balanced flavor and fragrance of dried mandarin peel. I really enjoyed this tea.
The menu offers a wide variety of fusion dishes, and I will be sure to come back and try their food. Seating is available both indoor and outdoor, but if you go on the weekends, please be sure to book a table. You would also book a spot in its car park as well. Do not park randomly in the village. There is a carpark designated for restaurant guests.
The Palm Woods of Tsiu Keng
Tsiu Keng certainly has an environ to boast. From InnoLife, walk along Tsiu Keng Road to its very end, toward the village. Then enter the village, pass the public toilet, and you will soon see two big patches of palm woods, which for sure is very special in terms of being Hong Kong’s natural habitat. One of the patches is fenced, but the other is open for touring and photography.
There are, however, village homes in this area and please be sure not to cause disturbance to the residents.
The Lung Tam Kwun Yam Temple
The Lung Tam Kwun Yam Temple is perhaps about a further 20 minute walk from the palm woods. The easiest direction is to point your Google Map to Lung Tam Kun Yam Temple (next to MX Racing Club). The way further on from the palm woods is consisted of paved, crisscrossing paths amidst the fields of Tsiu Keng. It is best to use Google for direction.
Besides the palm woods, I also find the fields of Tsiu Keng to be incredibly pleasant. There were a whole lot of crops there awaiting harvest. On this part of the walk, I came across the sighting of a very clear stream and it feels cooler despite the scorching sun.
The Long Tam Kwun Yam Temple is a private temple. It is open to visitors, and it is also well-maintained. The temple ground has ample space for its fengshui settings. There are a number of features there that exhibit a thoughtful approach to the temple’s environ, such as a manicured lotus pond and ping an faucets for hand washing.
In the temple are hung the ancient drum and bell, which are typical features in Hong Kong temples. The bell indicates the year 1844 (24th year of the Daoguang reign) as the date of its making. Kwun Yam and Kṣitigarbha are worshipped here.
Lung Tam, meaning “dragon pool,” may have referred to the natural pond that used to lie in front of the temple, where the lotus pond now stands. The Lung Tam Kwun Yam Temple was built 300 years ago during the Qing dynasty. In 1966, 7 neighboring villages pooled the funds to rebuild this temple. There was also a restoration during the 1980s.
Reminders
If you drive, please be sure to post a note with your phone number if you find yourself having to park at the village car spots. They all belong to some owner and if you are in the way, they have every right to lock up your car.
To get to Tsiu Keng’s palm woods, the easiest way is to take Green Top Minibus Route 57K from the minibus station at Landmark North and simply get off at the final stop at Pang Uk. From there on, the palm woods is just a 5-minute walk away.
From Fan Kam Road, there are red top minibuses that run on Fan Kam Road throughout the day. The stop to get off at is Tsiu Keng, as with Bus Route 77K from either the Sheung Shui direction or Kam Tin direction. There is a 15-minute walk from Fan Kam Road to the palm woods, and also most of the way in the village does not have cover. On summer days, even though it is a short walk in fully-paved roads, you should prepare a hat and water with you.
Allow for about 1 to 2 hours in the village if you plan on visiting the Kwun Yam Temple. Time required also depends on whether you will enjoy a tea set or a meal at InnoLife.
Sources
The Wikipedia on Tsiu Keng.
Antiquities Advisory Board on Cheung Ancestral Hall, Tsiu Keng San Wai, Sheung Shui.
Tere-Territory on Lung Tam Old Temple (Chin).