The Lin Fa Temple of Tai Hang
The Fire Dragon dance of Tai Hang resumed for the first time after the pandemic during the Mid-Autumn Festival of 2023. We arrived at Tai Hang too late that evening and as a result did not manage to secure a photo-taking spot for the Fire Dragon dance. However, I noticed that the Fire Dragon troupe made its stop first at the Lin Fa Temple before they did the parade. I decided to visit the Lin Fa Temple to learn about its history and its relationship with the people of Tai Hang.
Tai Hang is a cluster of residential and commercial establishments nestled in a foothill between Causeway Bay and Tin Hau. Usually, the locals of Hong Kong think of Tai Hang as a haven for good food. There are many good and reputed restaurants in this six-block by six-block area, serving both Cantonese and western cuisine. There are also some old buildings, which have been taken over by businesses to offer trendy dining in a revitalized heritage space.
The History of the Lin Fa Temple
The Lin Fa temple, meaning the “Temple of Lotus,” was likely built in the 2nd year in the Tongzhi Reign of the Qing dynasty (1863). When it was built, the Lin Fa Temple had the hill as its backdrop while facing the sea. In those times, the now-Tung Lo Wan Road was the actual coastline facing the sea. In terms of Feng Shui, this was meant to bode well. Right next to the Lin Fa Temple was the old Tai Hang Village (more below).
Kwun Yam (the Goddess of Mercy) is the resident deity at the Lin Fa Temple. The Lin Fa Temple is also the first Kwun Yam temple in Hong Kong island. It was said that the Lin Fa Temple belonged to one Tsang family, but eventually the temple was handed over to the Chinese Temples Committee in 1975.
Indeed, even today the temple draws many faithful followers for all kinds of rituals. I saw many people burning joss sticks, seeking fortune by fortune sticks and buying the instruments necessary for their worship.
Architectural Features of the Lin Fa Temple
When I first saw the temple, I became immediately intrigued by its unique appearance. Its top is in an octagonal shape (it is actually a half octagon because it is built with the hill at its back). Unlike pretty much all other temples in Hong Kong, the Lin Fa Temple was built with entry ways on the two sides. A half-moon shaped stone rail girdles the central opening, which, in the old times, would have faced the sea.
The roof is a double-eaves-tented roof, and the front hall is connected with the main hall without a courtyard, unlike the usual two-hall format with side chambers in most temples. The temple has two stories, and there are stairs within the temple to reach the upper altar.
One would not miss the beautiful wooden carving of a large dragon on the roof of Lin Fa Temple. This is a tribute to the annual Fire Dragon dance.
In terms of artefacts, the Shiwan ceramic figures, the stone offering table and the temple bell are from the 19th century. The Lin Fa Temple has been a Declared Monument since 2014.
A Brief Introduction of Tai Hang as an Ancient Community
Tai Hang, in Chinese meaning “the big pit,” was literally a big pit in this area passing from Mount Butler into the former coastline on Tung Lo Wan Road and onto the sea. The Tai Hang Village was established as early as the late 19th century in here, and it is the only Hakka village in Hong Kong Island.
A simple itinerary to visit Tai Hang can include first a visit at the Haw Par Mansion, which sits on the same hill above the Lin Fa Temple. After visiting the Haw Par Mansion, walk on Lai Tak Tsuen Road. Take a flight of stairs down across the street from Lai Tak Estate and you will arrive at Lin Fa Temple.
Feel free to sip coffee in many of the hip coffee shops, or even have an afternoon drink at a bar. I have previously written on Man Sing Bing Sutt, which is a Cantonese restaurant with a long history and a moving story, along with unique menu items, in Tai Hang.
Traditionally, the people of Tai Hang celebrates the Mid-Autumn Festival by holding the Fire Dragon dance parade during the three days of the festival. The Fire Dragon originated from a time of plague during the 19th century. A village elder said that Kwun Yam (the resident deity in Tai Hang’s Lin Fa Temple), gave him the revelation that a fire dragon dance will drive away the plague. The villagers gathered the troupes and did a Fire Dragon dance as instructed, and the plague really disappeared.
Therefore, the Fire Dragon dance parade has been held yearly since to commemorate this incident, and it also explains why the Fire Dragon troupe begins its parade by paying tribute at the Lin Fa Temple. The troupe is blessed by Kwun Yam as they burn joss sticks planted in a dragon form, before it heads out to Tai Hang for the parade.
Ironically, throughout those three years of the Covid-19 pandemic, the Fire Dragon dance parade had to cease performing. It has resumed in 2023 and let’s hope that nothing in the future will get in the way of this very traditional, fully engaging and uniquely Hong Kong cultural performance.
Sources
Descriptions on site at the Lin Fa Temple and in Tai Hang.
Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre, The Origin of Tang Hang Fire Dragon Dance.