Gorgeous Views of Double Haven at Sai Lau Kong
Sai Lau Kong lies on the northeastern coast of Hong Kong. At that location, one has perhaps one of the best views of Double Haven.
About Sai Lau Kong
Sai Lau Kong was once a thriving fishing village in the northeastern coast of the New Territories. The village once had a population of over 100 people. There was also a village school, but due to insufficient enrollment, the school was merged with the Sha Tau Kok Central Primary School in 1988.
In 2018, super typhoon Mangkhut destroyed the original fishing huts in the village. There was effort to rebuild the village, although there are perhaps just a few old people living there now. I did not get to see this rebuilt village because the guarding dogs chased me (see more below).
Originally, Sai Lau Kong was known as the Rhinoceros, “Sai Ngau.” That explains the name of the nearby lake and hill, named “Ngau Shi Wu” (the Lake of Cow Dung) and “Ngau Shi Wu Shan” (The Lake of Cow Dung Hill).
The Trail
This is a pretty long trail, a distance of at least 16 kilometers return and it is somewhat demanding. However, the path is a standard and official trail. As such, it is a pretty safe route throughout.
I started at the Double Haven Country Trail and walked the upper path to Sam A Tsuen via Lai Tau Shek. The way to Sai Lau Kong can be divided into two sections. The first section is from Wu Kau Tang to Sam A Tsuen.
Photo: About 20 minutes after embarking on the Double Haven Country Trail from Wu Kau Tang, you will come across this crossroads. Choose the upper path on the left, as it is a quicker way to Sam A Tsuen.
Once you are in Sam A Tsuen, you will pass by the restaurant. I was there at 9:30am and they were already open. I went on a public holiday, so the owners probably expected quite a huge crowd to dine there. This restaurant is well-known for its good Hakka cuisine. However, I always prefer doing picnics at the destination. I packed a little sandwich instead and did not stop at the restaurant.
The second section then begins at Sam A Tsuen Village. Keep on going from the restaurant and you will come across an intersection with a clear signpost. Choose the way of Lai Chi Wo.
At this point, you will come to the Public Toilet of Sam A Tsuen Village. Right next to the public toilet, you will see the sign pointing the way to Sai Lau Kong. From this point on, there are clear signs pointing you to Sai Lau Kong, follow them.
Begin on the ascent. There are two hilly sections on this path. The first one is Ngau Shi Wu Shan.
Photo: Beautiful views on ascent on Ngau Shi Wu Shan
Then you will pass by Ngau Shi Wu, with views on the coast.
The second hilly section will lead you to the viewing point. This is where you will gather the most exceptional views of Double Haven.
The Views
At the viewing point, you can see afar the ports of Shenzhen in the north. On the east lies Double Haven, a body of water with small uninhabited islands, and the inhabited island of Kat O (Crooked Island). The mountainous terrain in the south, of Kwun Yam Tung and Luk Wu Tung afar, envelopes Double Haven.
Photos: Panoramic view of Double Haven at the Viewing Point
Then descend on another flight of stairs and you will arrive at the village of Sai Lau Kong. There is a pier. The scenery is rustic, beautiful and serene. I took out my sando and had a very nice picnic, with my phone off. There was plenty of sunshine. I started the hike at 8am in Wu Kau Tang. At a little past 11am, I reached Sai Lau Kong. When I left a little after noon, throngs of hikers started coming in. I had just enough time to enjoy a quiet lunch there.
Photos Above: Views at Sai Lau Kong. Photos Below: Views at the Pier, where I picnicked.
The Six Treasures of Double Heaven
The scenic features of Double Haven has inspired the imagination of the literati. What the Hong Kong people refer to as the “Six Treasures of Double Haven” are references to the tools and treasures of the ancient scholar. These are the descriptions I have found when I visited Kat O:
A pointed sand spit (Pak Sha Tau Tsui) resembles the tip of a Chinese brush.
Pak Ka Chau at the foot of Wong Fong Shan is shaped like a brush stand.
A rock outcrop near Pak Ka Chau is shaped like an ink slab.
The conical Wong Fong Shan resembles a parasol.
The placid water of Double Haven is as smooth as a piece of paper.
Yan Chau, with its central crack, looks like a seal.
As far as I could tell, at Sai Lau Kong the best view is that of Yan Chau, the treasure that “looks like a seal.”
And of course, the placid water of Double Heaven spread as wide and far as the azure sky this day.
Photo: A Close View of Yan Chau (The Island of the Seal)
Reminders
There are dogs in the village. They ran out toward me and barked fiercely when I came close to the village settlement area. As a result, I did not see much of the coastal views on the southern waters of Sai Lau Kong.
Some people do trek the coastline in the southern parts of Sai Lau Kong. Again, do not do this alone. You also must watch the time for low tides, otherwise you could be stranded. It is dangerous and you should only do so if you are experienced and with other experienced hikers.
Be sure to bring quite a bit of water with you. I suggest no less than 2 litres. Although there is a restaurant at mid-point in Sam A Tsuen, you do need to keep yourself hydrated throughout the walk.
Overall, it took me a total of 7.5 hours between my start time and when I reached my car again in Wu Kau Tang. I did take a leisurely break in Sai Lau Kong. It is a long and demanding walk. A good part of the trail is shaded, but a hat would be necessary.
Photos: Another Panorama View of Double Haven at the Viewing Point
How to Get There
For how to get to Wu Kau Tang and the Double Haven Country Trail, please see my prior entry here. Be very good with time, because if you rely on public transportation, the last minibus leaves Wu Kau Tang at 8:15pm. If you miss that minibus, chances are it will be hard to even call a cab willing to take you back to civilisation.
On Sundays and public holidays, Bus Route 275R stops you off between the Tai Po Market Bus Terminus and Wu Kau Tang. Again, please consult its schedule to plan your journey better. This hike does take a whole day.
By private car, there is a parking lot right at the proper entrance of the Double Haven Country Trail, at the end of Wu Kau Tang Road. There is also a parking lot, usually with more spots, along the Wu Kau Tang Road. It is about an eight to ten minute walk to the proper entrance of the Double Haven Country Trail.
Sources
The Wikipedia on Sai Lau Kong (Chin).
Oasis Trek on Sai Lau Kong (Chin).
The Descriptions On-site at Kat O.