The 69-Year-Old Hoi An Café (NOW CLOSED)

It is with sadness that Hoi An Cafe, with 69 years of history behind it, has now permanently closed, as of October 2021. Reports suggest that the owner had to close it because nobody was going to take over the operation of the restaurant. Farewell Hoi An!

Hoi An Café has been in business since 1952.  As such it has been 69 years of serving wonderful local food.  Located in what used to be the very waterfront of Sheung Wan, Hoi An Café began as a hangout spot for the sailors that frequented the piers.

Due to land reclamation, the Sheung Wan waterfront has extended much farther out into the Victoria Harbour.  An antique picture at the restaurant portrays the old buildings that used to line on the inland side of Connaught Road.  Surely, many of these buildings have been revamped into high rise, but much of the character of this part of Sheung Wan remains.  It is aged, yet ever so authentic in its commoners’ roots.  Hoi An Café stands “ten years like one day,” as the Chinese saying goes.  Its very existence is testament to Hong Kong’s brightest and darkest days.

During the pandemic, Hoi An Café closed for a good few months.  As it recently reopened, I seized the opportunity to pay a visit.

I arrived at the restaurant at 1pm.  As it was the peak hour for lunch, diners lined up at the door.  The restaurant looks nondescript on its outside, or actually it would be fair to say that it is a bit run-down.  It certainly wears the front of a neighborhood restaurant.  However, the queue is living witness to its good name.

Mr. Auyueng, the current owner, told me some brief history of the café.  The first owner of Hoi An Café was an old man named Wong Kim.  Mr. Auyeung’s father was a loyal staff at the restaurant.  Therefore when Old Uncle Wong Kim retired, he gifted the restaurant to Mr. Auyeung’s father.  I asked him if his father paid anything, he said “no, Old Uncle Wong Kim just gave the restaurant to us.  In those days, this was a common practice.”

Hoi An Café remains a family business now.  “We are at generation 2.5 now.”  I think he means that a person of a generation after him is also working at the restaurant now, but I did not ask further.

I sat at a table in the middle of the restaurant on wooden stools.  Sharing the table with me was another lady, who ordered the roast pork dry rice noodle, and she topped it off with fried egg and spam.  I was nearly drooling as I watched her eat.

I then distracted myself by observing the décor of the restaurant.  The facilities certainly are very old, and that includes the kitchen area that I was able to observe.  Like many of the historical tea cafes in Hong Kong, Hoi An retains a classic ambiance.  You could call it hole-in-the-wall, but there was no sacrifice on efficiency and cleanliness.  If it prides itself in its old name, then the old-school presentation is just what diners would expect.

There are a few things that Hoi An Café is known for and I tried two dishes on this first visit.  The food reviews show the roast pork lo-mein (dry noodles) earning the most likes.  So I ordered that as my main course.  Do note, however, that the roast pork runs out quickly.  Around 1:30pm, the staff closed all orders on the roast pork noodles.

In terms of roast pork (char siu), perhaps Hong Kong people’s favorite is the half-fat, half-meat cut.  My roast pork noodle came with exactly that.  I would say it came up to the top few best char siu that I ever had.

After working through a very satisfying plate of roast pork noodles, I decided to try another signature dish.  The thick toast with corned beef in scrambled egg was very good as well.  The egg came out still slightly runny, with plenty of spring onions, bringing with it a mouth-watering aroma.  The toast came in just the way I liked.

I finished this scrumptious meal with the red bean milk tea, served hot.  The red beans were sweet and therefore I did not need sugar.  I did take a full hour to finish eating these few things.  And I was simply too full after.

I am already looking forward to my next visit at Hoi An Café.

A Follow-Up

I am very sad to report that, as of October 30, 2021, the Hoi An Cafe is permanently closed.  There goes another beautiful memory of old Hong Kong.