The Mui Tsz Lam and Pak Kong Ancient Trail (via Mau Ping)
As of June 2023, the giant twines of Mau Ping have been destroyed (not completely) by a vicious person, who chopped down parts of the old trees. The twines suffered significant damage. Some experts have assessed that the damage is too great for the twines to grow back. We express the most severe condemnation to the person who committed this grave act against nature.
On this beautiful winter day a group of friends and I headed out from Mui Tsz Lam to see the great twines of Mau Ping. We hiked the Mui Tsz Lam and Pak Kong Ancient Trail, which was an easy, 2.5-hour walk.
To the Mui Tsz Lam and Pak Kong Ancient Trail
At the Tai Shui Hang MTR Station, we took exit B toward Chevalier Garden. We stopped by a restaurant at Tai Shui Hang for a typical Hong Kong meal first. Then we walked through the compound of Chevalier Garden, toward the general direction of the mountains. At this gate with the red lanterns (near Block 17), we entered into the path to Mui Tsz Lam.
We turned left on the paved Mui Tsz Lam Road. Trees lined this section of the road. For about fifteen, twenty minutes we headed up on a gentle incline. Many bikers raced by, and we saw one that made a few rounds back and forth. It was a Sunday and there were quite a number of hikers.
At this point, follow the sign for Mui Tsz Lam Village. Keep on for a little bit further.
You will have entered into the village, and reach this point. The entry to the Ancient Trail is the path on the left.
Mui Tsz Lam Village and its Mountainous Neighbors
Mui Tsz Lam is a 400-year old village. The Ng clan of Hakka came to Ma On Shan and settled down here. Although at its heyday the village prided a population of 200 to 300, most villagers have moved away. Only about a dozen residents remain there now. There is no record of why this village was named Mui Tsz Lam (in Chinese, it means plum grove). The villagers grew mainly grains.
Once we passed by Mui Tsz Lam village, we came upon the Mau Ping Ancient Trail. At this sign we knew that Mau Ping is only about 1.6km up. Generous shades bless this leg of the journey. It is a gentle incline throughout, with the last section before reaching Mau Ping to be mostly upward steps.
The ancient trails of Hong Kong are distinguishable by being stone-paved paths. Judging from the condition of the stones on this trail, it is likely that the villagers have paved the stones with what they were able to find in nearby sites. The stones had irregular shapes and did not seem to have been processed in any way. Other ancient trails that came with planning are paved with wide stone slabs.[i] This ancient trail is dated over one hundred years.
We then passed by the former Mau Ping Villages on our way. Although there are a number of abandoned houses, the ancestral hall stands proudly restored. It gives tribute to the Lau ancestors. The Mau Ping villages have moved to their current locations in Sai Kung by now. In the old days, the only access to the village was this ancient trail.
This stream was a popular rest stop.
Return to Sai Kung via Pak Kong
The section from Mui Tsz Lam Village to the Mau Ping Resting Area takes about 1.5 hours. Once we arrived at the Mau Ping Resting Area, (where everybody lines up to take pictures of the giant beans), we took a break. I have previously written on the Great Twines of Mau Ping and the bamboo lined sections.
We continued on the Mau Ping Ancient Trail back to Pak Kong and it took about another hour, plus 15 minutes on Pak Kong Road to Hiram’s Highway and thus back to civilization. There is a bus stop on Hiram’s Highway and you can take a bus to go back to Sai Kung Town.
Gentle Reminders:
The walk back to Pak Kong is slightly steep. The stone-paved roads can be slippery when heading downward because of the round and smooth surface of the stones. I caution hikers against walking it during rainy days, or otherwise always have a hiking cane.
[i] 梅子林及茅坪，馬鞍山民康促進會https://mos.hk/spot/6.